Beretta 1301 Tactical

[OlongJohnson]

There is no major issue with the Nordic or any other +2, the factory tube is better because it’s one piece and retains the mag spring when you take the gun apart.

I understand it's also made in the U.S., so it could theoretically be used on 1301s that didn't come with it to get the parts count where needed by the most stringent interpretation of the rules without having to buy a trigger from Briley.

[Pnut]

Why would the factory magazine tube cover be less susceptible to loosening than the Nordic extension? Both screw to the magazine tube and both engage the detent on the handguard. The factory magazine clamp on my gun started sliding under recoil immediately and no amount of tightening would stop it. All of the Nordic extension clamps slide around too.

I don’t have a dog in the fight, but here’s my understanding/interpretation of the situation…

The FACTORY 7 round tube extension cover will be less prone to coming loose if used WITH the factory spring retainer. With this setup, there is no spring tension on the tube cover.

If you run an aftermarket extension, there is no spring retainer. The spring is held in place by the extension so it is under tension by the spring.

Please correct me if I’m wrong.

[Ben_G]

I don’t have a dog in the fight, but here’s my understanding/interpretation of the situation…

The FACTORY 7 round tube extension cover will be less prone to coming loose if used WITH the factory spring retainer. With this setup, there is no spring tension on the tube cover.

If you run an aftermarket extension, there is no spring retainer. The spring is held in place by the extension so it is under tension by the spring.

Please correct me if I’m wrong.

It's a combination of this, and the fact that since the BUSA one is polymer, there's less mass getting thrown around to slowly but surely overcome that detent pin on the forend. All the metal in our piece is for the thread insert, and that's it.

As for the clamps sliding around, I know its less than optimal, but I believe you can put a piece of neoprene to use as a compression piece between the clamp and tube to improve it's grip. I'll also talk to R&D to see if there's something we can modify in the tool to get that all tightened up, or if there's a reason it's at the current level of tension.

[delphidoc]

Not trying to be an argumentative arse(*) but by that logic wouldn't a screw be more likely to come loose if you used a lock washer than if you used a flat washer?

(*) I may not be a colorectal surgeon but I am an asshole.





I don’t have a dog in the fight, but here’s my understanding/interpretation of the situation…

The FACTORY 7 round tube extension cover will be less prone to coming loose if used WITH the factory spring retainer. With this setup, there is no spring tension on the tube cover.

If you run an aftermarket extension, there is no spring retainer. The spring is held in place by the extension so it is under tension by the spring.

Please correct me if I’m wrong.

[HeavyDuty]

It's a combination of this, and the fact that since the BUSA one is polymer, there's less mass getting thrown around to slowly but surely overcome that detent pin on the forend. All the metal in our piece is for the thread insert, and that's it.

As for the clamps sliding around, I know its less than optimal, but I believe you can put a piece of neoprene to use as a compression piece between the clamp and tube to improve it's grip. I'll also talk to R&D to see if there's something we can modify in the tool to get that all tightened up, or if there's a reason it's at the current level of tension.

I actually use the optional pads sold by Nordic.

[Centerfire]

I don’t have a dog in the fight, but here’s my understanding/interpretation of the situation…

The FACTORY 7 round tube extension cover will be less prone to coming loose if used WITH the factory spring retainer. With this setup, there is no spring tension on the tube cover.

If you run an aftermarket extension, there is no spring retainer. The spring is held in place by the extension so it is under tension by the spring.

Please correct me if I’m wrong.

I took the factory magazine spring retainer out. The gun only had a 6rd capacity with the 10 different kinds of ammunition I tried. I assume Beretta had no problem getting 5 rounds to fit with the old 5rd tube and retainer because they didn't have to worry about the magazine tube sticking out past the end of the barrel.

[Pnut]

Not trying to be an argumentative arse(*) but by that logic wouldn't a screw be more likely to come loose if you used a lock washer than if you used a flat washer?

(*) I may not be a colorectal surgeon but I am an asshole.


I’m no engineer, but here’s my thinking… with the spring pushing against the mag extension, the ball detent will be less effective at doing its job because the mating surface is being forced away from it.

[Pnut]

Like I said earlier, I have no dog in the fight. Personally, I have the factory 7 rounder with the retainer removed and no mag clamp. The retainer is out so I can actually run 7 rounds. I ditched the clamp because when I ran it with a light attached, it moved way too much under fire… almost completely to the muzzle before I noticed it!

My gun is a home defense gun. The most constant shooting I do is at the range, with about 50-100 round put through it per trip. I’ve drawn a hash mark on the tube and check it now and then and it hasn’t moved under fire yet.

I am using a GGG sling mount/pic rail section to mount my light and sling. I noticed that the ball detent built into the GGG piece does hold more firmly than the factory ball detent.

[TCinVA]

To the best of my knowledge Eric has put more rounds through a 1301 than any other human being on earth. So I'd take whatever he says seriously.

I haven't put anywhere near Eric's round count through a 1301, but I've put a fair few shells downrange with one using a Nordic extension without a barrel clamp over the years and I've never had mine come loose.

Whatever shotgun you are using, the magazine cap/extension coming loose is a concern and you need to pay attention to it. An easy way to deal with the issue is to check the tightness of the cap/extension every time you perform some administrative handling of the gun. That would be especially true for a gun that lives in a police cruiser and is subject to the constant vibrations and jostling of living in a vehicle.

One of the things that kills 870 ejectors quick is a loose magazine cap allowing the barrel to slam back and forth as the gun is fired and the action is run.

[SmokeJumper]

So after reading here and seeing a few 1301's around, I bought one, latest version with factory mag tube extension (Mine only holds 6 rnds, not 7 using Remington or Winchester ammo). I'm looking at accessory options. Has anyone run or added the magpul GGG Zhukov to the newer 1301's with the factory mag extension? https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-zhukov-handguard.html
They say it will work, just not picturing it with the machined nose cone attached or even installing it. I want to go this route to add a light and possibly add a different sling attachment. I really wanted to like this scattergun, but so far I keep going back to my Rem 870's. I'm newer to auto-loading shotguns and like my Benelli and Beretta for hunting, maybe I need to get this 1301 set up and then hit a class or two. This thread has been good, lots of info, so if I missed this particular question, my apologies. Thanks for the info.

[shootist26]

Remove the plastic mag tube cap. All it does is retain the mag spring in the tube when the gun is disassembled. That'll free you up for 7th round.

[kwb377]

Has anyone run or added the magpul GGG Zhukov to the newer 1301's with the factory mag extension?
They say it will work, just not picturing it with the machined nose cone attached or even installing it.

I don't have the GG&G handguard, but the Aridus...no issues mounting it on the G2.5 model.

https://a4.pbase.com/g12/07/240307/2/172678590.kXLD8NJY.jpg

[SmokeJumper]

[QUOTE=kwb377;1393736]I don't have the GG&G handguard, but the Aridus...no issues mounting it on the G2.5 model.

That's what I was looking for. I didn't know the Aridus unit would work, I was told otherwise. As far as 7 shots, 6 works fine, just like an 870P...Thanks

[Oceanbob]

[QUOTE=kwb377;1393736]I don't have the GG&G handguard, but the Aridus...no issues mounting it on the G2.5 model.

That's what I was looking for. I didn't know the Aridus unit would work, I was told otherwise. As far as 7 shots, 6 works fine, just like an 870P...Thanks

Seriously? Who told you that chit..? Adam at Aridus is on this forum and he’s the innovative guy behind the Handguard (with nose cone), the CROM, the side saddle you’ll see at every gun game/class, the Adapter for the Magpul and the new charging handle.

Just to be clear, GG&G is good stuff but they copied Aridus. Their nose cone is smooth instead of serrated to avoid copyright issues.
The GG&G CROMS are also copied. GG&G started doing this initially to supply Ernest Langdon parts he needs for the Langdon Tactical model for his booming business.

Bob

[gkdycus@hughes.net]

Hi guys, new to the forum! I came across the forum doing a search for 1301T problems.

I ordered a Gen 2 back in February and it arrived about 2 weeks ago. I immediately begin having issues with it ejecting live shells along with the empties. Working the bolt, I can occasionally get one to pop out of the magazine into the preload area, then into the chamber, then eject. Happens manually about once every 5 to 10 cycles. When live firing, about 3 of 5 hit the ground. It appears that the shell catch is barely touching the rim of the magazine shells, allowing them to slip past. I've returned the shotgun to the dealer, waiting resolution. Also disappointed to see the black paint is coming off of the barrel in a couple of places after only firing it 9 times or so.

[Dorsai]

I'm happy with the Magpul stock, but I saw this and thought "...Beretta is the parent company of Benelli. Why hasn't someone adapted this to the 1301?"

94459

[SpyderMan2k4]

Well, folks, this kills me to do, but it's the right thing to do. I figured you might as well hear it straight from me first. As they say, "nobody was more surprised than me." Step 1, get everyone taken care of, Step 2, back to the drawing board. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220919/3e6172a67bf0637882f0b2c9f8999f69.jpg

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

[WobblyPossum]

Well, folks, this kills me to do, but it's the right thing to do. I figured you might as well hear it straight from me first. As they say, "nobody was more surprised than me." Step 1, get everyone taken care of, Step 2, back to the drawing board. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220919/3e6172a67bf0637882f0b2c9f8999f69.jpg

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear about this Adam. Do you know yet if it’s an issue with the design or the manufacturing? I really like your charging handle and it works really well when dry practicing with dummy shells. I haven’t had a chance to try it out live yet.

[SpyderMan2k4]

Sorry to hear about this Adam. Do you know yet if it’s an issue with the design or the manufacturing? I really like your charging handle and it works really well when dry practicing with dummy shells. I haven’t had a chance to try it out live yet.I think it's a combination of things. I'm going to play with different materials and hopefully find a 100% reliable solution.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

[Centerfire]

I think it's a combination of things. I'm going to play with different materials and hopefully find a 100% reliable solution.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

I saw some pictures on Reddit of one of the failures and it looked material choice and hardness. The hardness is probably related to nitriding. Bar stock 17-4 probably wouldn't have the same issue.

[Oceanbob]

I think it's a combination of things. I'm going to play with different materials and hopefully find a 100% reliable solution.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Appreciate you being a standup guy Adam. I’ll hang in because I like the design. Stuff happens in life.
Bob

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Appreciate you being a standup guy Adam. I’ll hang in because I like the design. Stuff happens in life.
Bob

Quoting OB as we're on the same page re. Adam/Aridus, been riding w/ the brand since 2016 & will continue to 'nuff said.

[titsonritz]

Bummer on the charging handle, I'll be patiently waiting for the redux.

[GyroF-16]

Quoting OB as we're on the same page re. Adam/Aridus, been riding w/ the brand since 2016 & will continue to 'nuff said.

Quoting OR/CSAT, as I have the same view.
I appreciate Adam and the good stuff he’s made with Aridus.
I appreciate his taking responsibility for the issue, and will continue to support his business.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Quoting OR/CSAT, as I have the same view.
I appreciate Adam and the good stuff he’s made with Aridus.
I appreciate his taking responsibility for the issue, and will continue to support his business.

No doubt mi amigo as I had an email from him today @ 1300ish, confirmed w/ a reply I had received mine & he Pay Pal’d me my $ by 1330.

[dontshakepandas]

GG&G has a replacement magazine tube cover for the factory 7 shot model available now.

https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-replacement-magazine-tube-cover.html

[civil1977]

Good to see but I’d like it without the clamp.

[Pnut]

Couldn’t you run it without the clamp? I run my factory cover without one with no problems… I do check the tightness every so often just in case, but so far it hasn’t moved under recoil.

[Dorsai]

On the latest gen, a clamp isn't needed except to mount a sling, light or other accessory. On the older guns, just like the Rem 870, the magazine extension is under pressure from the magazine spring. It is held in place via a ratcheting action against spring loaded bearing. Most magazine extensions have a collar, a screw in tube which does not have a ratchet. Under recoil, the spring pressure can cause the tube to unscrew. So the clamp both supports it and prevents it from unscrewing. The latest gen has a spring retainer and the cover only functions to retain the handguard and barrel with no spring pressure.

If you want to run a sling or other accessory without a clamp, you'll need to come up with a different solution. With regards to the GG&G cover, the only advantage I can see is that it doesn't compress when you clamp it, so the clamp is likely to stay in place. At least that is my understanding.

[Centerfire]

Good to see but I’d like it without the clamp.

Step 1: Take off clamp.
Step 2: ?
Step 3: Profit.

[trajiiic]

TLDR: GG&G magazine follower is going in the trash after multiple malfunctions that jammed the gun up. The OEM Beretta magazine spring will set, reduce in length, by a few inches after staying loaded for 2 years/700+ shells but remains reliable.


All,

It's been awhile since I've posted. I took my 1301 to the range for the first time since replacing my gas piston O-ring. Unfortunately, before I could go I had to remove my new Aridus charging handle and return to the Briley. While swapping out charging handles I compared my OEM magazine spring with a brand new OEM spring and noticed that it was a few inches shorter. This shotgun has been left fully loaded (5 rounds and later 7 on same OEM spring) for two years

https://i.ibb.co/hBx8qSF/PXL-20221002-172649513.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/PWW1366/PXL-20221002-172655088.jpg

This range only allows slugs for shotguns so I was going to confirm zero for my sights, have some fun, and confirm the gun cycles with the new o-ring. I was shooting only 12ga federal trueball, jacketed rifle slugs. Currently I have around 700+ shells through the gun. The GG&G follower has been installed since around 200 shells, so it has around 500 shells on it. Original OEM magazine spring was used with the full 700+ shell count.

I got through about 14 slugs before I noticed the bolt wouldn't drop. Upon inspection the GG&G follower was about 1/2" past where it's supposed to seat, so it was inside the chamber. I pushed it back into the magazine easily where it stayed in place. I loaded 3 more slugs for my next group and the 1301 cycled all 3 shells but the GG&G follower was now even further into the chamber.

The first malfunction.
https://i.ibb.co/zGkYqdq/PXL-20221002-205405182.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/JcJqztR/PXL-20221002-205409340.jpg

After installing the new OEM spring. Did not fire, this just happened from Install.
https://i.ibb.co/0Jv4W7q/PXL-20221002-205832678.jpg

Ammo used.
https://i.ibb.co/QcHDr9J/PXL-20221002-211436386.jpg

I reported this to the RSO and he was comfortable with me fixing the issue on the range. I had my spare brand new OEM spring with me and decided to try a new spring since the follower has not been an issue in 500 shells. Upon completion of installing the new spring and reseating the GG&G follower I observed the follower was again inside the chamber, pushed past the magazine tube. I disassembled and reassembled again with the same result. At this point, my gun was out of the fight.

One last note. I've probably shot 100 shells from this same lot earlier this year and have about 50+ slugs from other brands that have worked flawless with the original OEM spring and GG&G follower.

I'll be going back next weekend with the original 700+ shell magazine spring with the OEM follower. I'll report back with the status.


PS: With the GG&G magazine follower and original spring installed and the gun cleared, the GG&G follower will shoot out of the magazine tube when the bolt release handle is pulled up. On the range this would have been when the gun went dry on ammo. With the OEM Beretta follower, the follower DOES NOT shoot into the chamber when the bolt release handle is pulled up.

[WobblyPossum]

I think TCinVA has posted a couple of times that none of the aftermarket followers have proven to be reliable. The GG&G isn’t the first one someone has posted about that caused malfunctions. I think some people also had issues with the Nordic one.

[Pnut]

Thank goodness I’ve resisted the urge to drop $ on an aftermarket follower! I did however copy someone’s idea here to drill a larger hole in the follower for a tactile verification of an empty gun!

[trajiiic]

I think TCinVA has posted a couple of times that none of the aftermarket followers have proven to be reliable. The GG&G isn’t the first one someone has posted about that caused malfunctions. I think some people also had issues with the Nordic one.

It's funny because when this malfunction happened that's the first post I remembered too. The main reason I installed the thing was because it's American and has a red portion which makes it easier to identify being dry on ammo.

Time for an Aridus follower?

[WobblyPossum]

It's funny because when this malfunction happened that's the first post I remembered too. The main reason I installed the thing was because it's American and has a red portion which makes it easier to identify being dry on ammo.

Time for an Aridus follower?

If Adam could make a reliable, brightly colored, follower, preferably with a hole in the center to allow tactile verification of an empty mag tube in low light, I’d jump on it too.

Even though I haven’t bought every product Adam has brought to market, I’m a big fan of the work he’s been doing. I love the CROM and Magpul SGA adapter. I’m still hoping the Aridus charging handle works out. I know he urged everyone to throw them in the trash after the recall notice but my 1301 isn’t currently filling a HD role, so I think I might just run it until it breaks. As long as the shaft doesn’t break off flush with the bolt, I could always just remove it with pliers if it snaps. At some point I’ll probably put it back in the HD role so I’ll have to go back to the OEM charging handle.

[TCinVA]

I reported this to the RSO and he was comfortable with me fixing the issue on the range. I had my spare brand new OEM spring with me and decided to try a new spring since the follower has not been an issue in 500 shells. Upon completion of installing the new spring and reseating the GG&G follower I observed the follower was again inside the chamber, pushed past the magazine tube. I disassembled and reassembled again with the same result. At this point, my gun was out of the fight.


That's pretty much what I've seen repeatedly. Either the follower hangs up on the transition between an aftermarket mag tube extension and the factory tube, or it pukes out of the magazine tube into the action shutting the gun down.

Neither of these things happen every single time the aftermarket follower is used. It tends to take just the right blend of circumstances for the problem to bite, but when it bites it bites hard. I was fortunate enough that when I put an aftermarket follower in my 1301 the first time I tried to load shells it got stuck and clued me in that there was a potential problem. It made me vigilant about issues with client guns and then they started to roll in, especially with vendors now selling aftermarket packages at a premium I'm seeing a lot of it.

I know Aridus is aware of the issue because I've discussed it with Adam. If they release a follower I'll be willing to give that one a try, but that's the only one I'm willing to give the time of day just because I know how seriously he takes his product development.

I use a Vang Comp or Wilson Combat follower in my pump guns and I love them and any number of these followers might function great in other shotguns...but the 1301 is more picky about the follower so the best bet is to leave the factory follower in your gun.

[Cory]

The Beretta A400 Xtreme plus uses a neon green follower I believe. I wonder if that is a suitable alternative for those who want a high viz follower. It is a Beretta factory part for a 12G shotgun that uses the same action type. Seems like it may be viable, but the magazine tube length is probably different. Can't see that as becoming an issue though.

[trajiiic]

I'm debating contacting GG&G just as a heads up. Their website shows this was made specifically for the 1301 (which I doubt). I'm not sure if they would have any interest in resolving the issue though.

I've also got some video of it happening while troubleshooting. I think I should edit that and throw it up on Youtube for others to see.

I still like my other GG&G products, but a mod that deadlines a gun isn't acceptable to me.

[GyroF-16]

TCinVA
Can you recall whether CarrierComp was one of the aftermarket followers that you observed to cause problems?
I ordered mine because: American made and red. No problems so far, but my round count in in the hundreds, not the thousands.
Also, CarrierComp doesn’t show the item on the website any longer. Hmmm.

[TCinVA]

I don't know that I've seen that specific one in class.

...but given the risks, I'd say stick with the factory follower.

[OlongJohnson]

Seems like it would be pretty easy to machine a copy of the factory follower from stainless and have it available to sell to people who want to be OCD about 922(r) compliance. AFAIK, that's the only reason to change it, since the OE part just runs like a sewing machine.

[titsonritz]

TLDR: GG&G magazine follower is going in the trash after multiple malfunctions that jammed the gun up. The OEM Beretta magazine spring will set, reduce in length, by a few inches after staying loaded for 2 years/700+ shells but remains reliable.


All,

It's been awhile since I've posted. I took my 1301 to the range for the first time since replacing my gas piston O-ring. Unfortunately, before I could go I had to remove my new Aridus charging handle and return to the Briley. While swapping out charging handles I compared my OEM magazine spring with a brand new OEM spring and noticed that it was a few inches shorter. This shotgun has been left fully loaded (5 rounds and later 7 on same OEM spring) for two years


This range only allows slugs for shotguns so I was going to confirm zero for my sights, have some fun, and confirm the gun cycles with the new o-ring. I was shooting only 12ga federal trueball, jacketed rifle slugs. Currently I have around 700+ shells through the gun. The GG&G follower has been installed since around 200 shells, so it has around 500 shells on it. Original OEM magazine spring was used with the full 700+ shell count.

I got through about 14 slugs before I noticed the bolt wouldn't drop. Upon inspection the GG&G follower was about 1/2" past where it's supposed to seat, so it was inside the chamber. I pushed it back into the magazine easily where it stayed in place. I loaded 3 more slugs for my next group and the 1301 cycled all 3 shells but the GG&G follower was now even further into the chamber.



After installing the new OEM spring. Did not fire, this just happened from Install.

I reported this to the RSO and he was comfortable with me fixing the issue on the range. I had my spare brand new OEM spring with me and decided to try a new spring since the follower has not been an issue in 500 shells. Upon completion of installing the new spring and reseating the GG&G follower I observed the follower was again inside the chamber, pushed past the magazine tube. I disassembled and reassembled again with the same result. At this point, my gun was out of the fight.

One last note. I've probably shot 100 shells from this same lot earlier this year and have about 50+ slugs from other brands that have worked flawless with the original OEM spring and GG&G follower.

I'll be going back next weekend with the original 700+ shell magazine spring with the OEM follower. I'll report back with the status.


PS: With the GG&G magazine follower and original spring installed and the gun cleared, the GG&G follower will shoot out of the magazine tube when the bolt release handle is pulled up. On the range this would have been when the gun went dry on ammo. With the OEM Beretta follower, the follower DOES NOT shoot into the chamber when the bolt release handle is pulled up.



I think TCinVA has posted a couple of times that none of the aftermarket followers have proven to be reliable. The GG&G isn’t the first one someone has posted about that caused malfunctions. I think some people also had issues with the Nordic one.

Well shit, I wish I knew that before I bought and installed one. Guess I need to tear my 1301 apart and reinstall the stock one. Thanks for the heads-up.

[trajiiic]

Well shit, I wish I knew that before I bought and installed one. Guess I need to tear my 1301 apart and reinstall the stock one. Thanks for the heads-up.

I thought I'd be the exception to the aftermarket follower issues since I'm the only one here who was running the GG&G and no issues were reported. I don't really understand why it happened now and not sooner, but I'm confident that it's not going back in my gun. For the record, the GG&G follower shows no damage or wear.

[titsonritz]

I thought I'd be the exception to the aftermarket follower issues since I'm the only one here who was running the GG&G and no issues were reported. I don't really understand why it happened now and not sooner, but I'm confident that it's not going back in my gun. For the record, the GG&G follower shows no damage or wear.

That is the one I bought as well. I'd be interest in knowing if GG&G accepts it as a return despite the time lapse given it is a defective product.

[dontshakepandas]

That is the one I bought as well. I'd be interest in knowing if GG&G accepts it as a return despite the time lapse given it is a defective product.

My experience with their customer service was pretty underwhelming so I wouldn't hold your breath.

I wish more companies conducted themselves like Aridus did with their charging handle recall. I saw their post here that they were voluntarily sending out refunds, sent them an email, and had a refund within 2 hours.

[titsonritz]

My experience with their customer service was pretty underwhelming so I wouldn't hold your breath.

I wish more companies conducted themselves like Aridus did with their charging handle recall. I saw their post here that they were voluntarily sending out refunds, sent them an email, and had a refund within 2 hours.

The order I made recently left me with the same thought.

[Centerfire]

93878

TacOrd RMR mount and LPA steel sight with plain black ghost ring. If LPA offered replacement apertures I'd have stuck with the plastic rear. LPA should offer the sight with an aluminum body. The LPA screws have quite a bit more thread engagement than the OEM Beretta screws, probably 50% more. They torque just below flush inside the receiver.

I finally had some time last weekend to rezero the gun. The previous Aridus CROM required a lot of left windage (almost maxed) that I thought was related to the Blitzkrieg front sight. I checked and the front site blade was in the center of the sight post. When I changed out the CROM to the TacOrd/LPA setup I slaved the new rear sight to the elevation of the MRDS, left windage mechanically zero'd, and moved the red dot windage to the mechanical zero of the LPA sight. The first three shots were zero'd with slugs at 25 yards without any further adjustments. The LPA ghost ring feels like the traditional ghost rings that I'm used to (because it is), compared to the large ring of the XS CROM aperture, and has a wider field of view between the protective ears than the plastic OEM 1301 sight. The new setup is bulkier, weighs more, and is more complex than the CROM but I disliked the CROM to the point that I bought a new sight and MRDS mount. The CROM site was not centered on the receiver either, from what I could tell.

[trajiiic]

I sent an email to GG&G. I don't expect anything in return but I wanted them to know.


"
Hello,

I wanted to contact GG&G regarding the reliability of your Beretta 1301 Magazine Follower. This follower has a design flaw that will allow it to push past the magazine tube and into the receiver.

During my last range session the GG&G follower experienced this issue. The problem happened when the gun ran empty on ammunition, and the bolt release handle was locked in the raised position. The affect was that the bolt wouldn't drop because the GG&G follower was jammed in the action of the shotgun. I was able to push the follower back into the magazine tube but the problem returned when the gun ran out of ammunition.

I disassembled the magazine and replaced the spring with a brand new OEM spring. When the magazine was reassembled the GG&G follower was again inside of the receiver. The bolt was locked to the rear and the bolt release handle was in the raised position.

When I returned home I verified that the OEM Beretta follower did not have this issue and the follower remained in the magazine tube under the same conditions that made the GG&G follower shoot into the action. I again verified the GG&G follower would fail to stay in the magazine tube.

This follower has been reliable in my 1301 for at least 500 shells until this experience. The follower shows no signs of wear or damage.

Please let me know if there's any further information I can provide. For now I cannot recommend your follower to anyone in the 1301 community.


My 1301 aftermarket parts:

GG&G - magazine tube extension, front light mount, butt stock adapter, magazine follower (removed), rear QD mount

Briley - charging handle, IC extended choke

Aridus - CROM optic mount

Regards,
..."

[trajiiic]

GG&G contacted me after sending them an email with some of the pictures shown here. They confirmed that I was sent a follower for a different gun, likely a Mossberg 930, due to packaging errors at the beginning of their sales for these followers. One person on Reddit pointed out that my follower looked much different than theirs, GG&G confirmed that after.

GG&G is sending me a new follower free of charge.

[titsonritz]

GG&G contacted me after sending them an email with some of the pictures shown here. They confirmed that I was sent a follower for a different gun, likely a Mossberg 930, due to packaging errors at the beginning of their sales for these followers. One person on Reddit pointed out that my follower looked much different than theirs, GG&G confirmed that after.

GG&G is sending me a new follower free of charge.

That might be good news for me. If you haven't already packed or shipped it off would you mind posting a photo of the "wrong" follower?

[trajiiic]

That might be good news for me. If you haven't already packed or shipped it off would you mind posting a photo of the "wrong" follower?

Yeah will do. They don't want the current one back. I was planning on making a post here and on the subreddit for awareness in case anyone else was affected.

Although I'm happy with the customer service, it's peculiar that I was never contacted as possibly being affected by a known packaging error. That's just a +1 for Aridus in my book.


See my post below. There's a comment which links the correct GG&G follower picture. It has 2 grooves and looks shorter than the one from my picture.
https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/xvfnc1/ggg_magazine_follower_warning/


Here is supposedly the right one:
https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/GG-G-BERETTA-1301-FOLLOWER-457p9325.htm

[GyroF-16]

Yeah will do. They don't want the current one back. I was planning on making a post here and on the subreddit for awareness in case anyone else was affected.

Although I'm happy with the customer service, it's peculiar that I was never contacted as possibly being affected by a known packaging error. That's just a +1 for Aridus in my book.


See my post below. There's a comment which links the correct GG&G follower picture. It has 2 grooves and looks shorter than the one from my picture.
https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/xvfnc1/ggg_magazine_follower_warning/


Here is supposedly the right one:
https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/GG-G-BERETTA-1301-FOLLOWER-457p9325.htm


This is an interesting development…
When you have both in hand, I’d be very interested in a comparison of various dimensions between the two GG&G items, as well as the OEM follower. Specifically trying to learn what difference from the OEM led to your malfunctions.
I’m interested because I have a different aftermarket follower, and would like to determine whether it has the correct dimensions in the critical areas (whichever those turn out to be…).

[titsonritz]

Yeah will do. They don't want the current one back. I was planning on making a post here and on the subreddit for awareness in case anyone else was affected.

Although I'm happy with the customer service, it's peculiar that I was never contacted as possibly being affected by a known packaging error. That's just a +1 for Aridus in my book.


See my post below. There's a comment which links the correct GG&G follower picture. It has 2 grooves and looks shorter than the one from my picture.
https://www.reddit.com/r/beretta1301/comments/xvfnc1/ggg_magazine_follower_warning/


Here is supposedly the right one:
https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/GG-G-BERETTA-1301-FOLLOWER-457p9325.htm

Yep, mine is the second one for sure. I'm going to leave it in and see how it does. Thanks.

[Centerfire]

Has anyone SBR'd a 1301 or A400? I sure would like to make this gun shorter.

[TCinVA]

Has anyone SBR'd a 1301 or A400? I sure would like to make this gun shorter.

It's unlikely to run if you chop the barrel down.

To make a shorter barrel would require re-engineering the bolt carrier, piston, and gas ring just for starters. That would be rudely expensive for a niche item.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

It's unlikely to run if you chop the barrel down.

To make a shorter barrel would require re-engineering the bolt carrier, piston, and gas ring just for starters. That would be rudely expensive for a niche item.

Not that TC needs my follow on but I have a SWAT friend that SBS'd his 1301 & the subsequent reliability issues caused it to be X'd for his duty use @ a minimum.

[SwampDweller]

Has anyone ever been able to induce the "fatal flaw" in the newer 1301 shotguns? I've been looking into the 1301 vs the Benelli M4 for a bit now and stumbled across this video of a comparison. The rest of the video doesn't matter, but there is this one part where he seems to cause the "fatal flaw" to happen and says "it's still there, it's just harder to do".

Here is the video in question with the time link (3:30 if it doesn't take you there): https://youtu.be/WvKY_2sKHhk?t=210

[WobblyPossum]

Has anyone ever been able to induce the "fatal flaw" in the newer 1301 shotguns? I've been looking into the 1301 vs the Benelli M4 for a bit now and stumbled across this video of a comparison. The rest of the video doesn't matter, but there is this one part where he seems to cause the "fatal flaw" to happen and says "it's still there, it's just harder to do".

Here is the video in question with the time link (3:30 if it doesn't take you there): https://youtu.be/WvKY_2sKHhk?t=210

Is it really considered a “fatal flaw” with how easy and quick it is to clear that double feed malfunction? I only have a Gen1 1301 so I haven’t handled the newer guns with the different lever but I’m assuming it functions the same, except the lever is a different shape. I’m using the fully enclosed shroud Tau used to sell so it’s not possible to press the back of the lever to release shells anymore. If I pull up on the front of the lever, I can still trigger the shell release function. Just learn to clear it if you’re going to rely on a 1301 for anything serious, the way you would learn to clear a failure to extract in a carbine or handgun if those were your defensive weapons, except it’s much easier to clear this double feed than a failure to extract or a double feed in an AR. There are posts about it early in the thread.

[mmc45414]

Has anyone ever been able to induce the "fatal flaw" in the newer 1301 shotguns?
Yes, this is/was considered a feature when they initially did it, and the gun still functions in this manner. But I think you would want to cause the gun to do it, it would be pretty difficult to unintentionally snag the new lever on something. And there are several options that prohibit that movement, if you would be so inclined to grab the lever and pull it away from the receiver as was done in the video. When the action is closed the lever lays against the receiver, and the forward facing edge of it is tapered in a manner that bumping it into something would push it and not pull it.


There are posts about it early in the thread.
Like probably five thousand posts ago, so ya gotta go wayyyy back :cool:

[Centerfire]

Has anyone ever been able to induce the "fatal flaw" in the newer 1301 shotguns? I've been looking into the 1301 vs the Benelli M4 for a bit now and stumbled across this video of a comparison. The rest of the video doesn't matter, but there is this one part where he seems to cause the "fatal flaw" to happen and says "it's still there, it's just harder to do".

Here is the video in question with the time link (3:30 if it doesn't take you there): https://youtu.be/WvKY_2sKHhk?t=210

Patient: "Doctor, it hurts when I do that".
Doctor: "So don't do that".

[TCinVA]

Two shells on the lifter of a Remington 870 is a show-stopper. It was possible for the 870 to back two shells out of the magazine tube in a manner that would require disassembling the shotgun to remedy. That's why Remington introduced the updated lifter to limit how far back the shells could go so that the stoppage could be fixed if it happened in the field.

That's where the "fatal flaw" concept comes from.

It's never been truly "fatal" on the 1301 because you can very easily remedy the problem by shoving the shell that's still partially in the magazine tube back into the magazine tube quickly and easily. You can't do that with the 870 nearly as easily because the 870 has two shell stops and shells end up jammed between them.

On the Gen1 1301's the concern was that bumping the rear of the bolt release would move the shell stop out of the way and release shells onto the lifter. It was fairly easy to bump that rear section unintentionally. Tau and Aridus came up with collars that stopped that from happening and they solved the problem nicely.

The Gen2 release doesn't have anything to hit there, which also solves that problem. Deliberately pulling up on the lever will move the shell stop attached to it...but that action is a hell of a lot less likely than pressure applied to the rear of the bolt release on the Gen1 1301. That's why nobody who has a Gen2 gun is actually worried about it.

I've seen people induce two shells on the lifter on the range, but it's never involved the bolt release. It's been when they failed to insert the last shell in the magazine tube past the shell stop and then they hit the shell release button without realizing there was already one on the lifter.

So yes, it's possible if you perform the specific action demonstrated in the video...which is the only way I've ever seen it induced. Deliberately, by doing shit you wouldn't be doing unless you were trying to cause the problem.

It is extremely unlikely.

It's not a "fatal" flaw on the 1301.

...and be skeptical of people who publish video of themselves shooting steel with shotguns at that kind of range. It's fucking dangerous to shoot steel that close with a gauge.

[trajiiic]

I received my replacement GG&G follower. It is in fact the two rib style. This one does not launch into the chamber when the bolt release handle is pulled up.

I took some measurements on video with a digital caliper of the "mossberg" GG&G follower, 1301 GG&G follower, and 1301 OEM follower. I'll get it up here when I can. Range sunday with same ammo and spring to confirm working. I'll probably end up shooting 30 truball slugs. I'll have to go to a different range for buckshot.

[trajiiic]

I received my replacement GG&G follower. It is in fact the two rib style. This one does not launch into the chamber when the bolt release handle is pulled up.

I took some measurements on video with a digital caliper of the "mossberg" GG&G follower, 1301 GG&G follower, and 1301 OEM follower. I'll get it up here when I can. Range sunday with same ammo and spring to confirm working. I'll probably end up shooting 30 truball slugs. I'll have to go to a different range for buckshot.


https://i.ibb.co/CMx8F70/PXL-20221007-174129474.jpg





https://i.ibb.co/nMVxSrM/PXL-20221007-232048289.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/q9RxHcg/PXL-20221007-232116608.jpg
Beretta OEM - GG&G 1301 - GG&G "Mossberg"



OEM Beretta Follower
Height: 22.13MM
OD Widest Point: 23.17MM
Front Lip/recess: 21.9MM
ID: 21.2MM
Weight: .55OZ

GG&G Beretta Follower
Height: 24.8MM
OD Widest Point: 23.12MM
Front lip - Red Insert: 17.20MM
ID: 19.10MM
Weight: .9OZ

GG&G "Mossberg" Follower
Height: 24.5MM
OD Widest Point: 22.86MM
Front lip - Red Insert: 17.28MM
ID: 19.0MM
Weight: .8OZ

Please take these exact measurements with a grain of salt. I'm using a $30 amazon caliper and I'm not a scientist. I did notice that the spring easily fits into the cup of the OEM follower, the 1301 GG&G also fits the spring but it needs to be installed inside the follower prior to inserting into the mag tube, and the "Mossberg" GG&G will also accept the spring but requires a good amount for force to seat it inside the follower. Spring OD = ~19.6MM at the tip of a brand new OEM magazine spring.



https://i.ibb.co/Jd2yGSK/PXL-20221007-222219403.jpg

[Pnut]

Got a little bored today so I decided to try some customizing on my 1301. I have a titanium charging handle that came with a plain brushed finish. I sandblasted it to get a matte finish. I decided to anodize it bronze using a 12v battery.

When I went to install it in the gun, I dropped the handle on the ground, which cause a small scratch in the blasted finish.
I figured regular wear and tear would end up creating more scratches, so I gave it a stonewash finish in a tumbler.

95334

95336

[gato naranja]

I thought that it might be time to de-acquisition the 870 P and a few other things and get a 1301 Tactical. I had sampled them and concluded that some of my negative first impressions were due to personal bias and unfamiliarity.

So I rented one.

Even with reduced recoil loads, this thing kicks me. It is almost a half pound lighter than "Officer Friendly
" (the 870 P), but I guess I still expect a gas gun to be a little more gentle. At this point, the 1301 may be the best affordable semiauto shotgun mousetrap out there, but I am getting older, not younger; I want my bell rung a little less briskly.

[Oldherkpilot]

I thought that it might be time to de-acquisition the 870 P and a few other things and get a 1301 Tactical. I had sampled them and concluded that some of my negative first impressions were due to personal bias and unfamiliarity.

So I rented one.

Even with reduced recoil loads, this thing kicks me. It is almost a half pound lighter than "Officer Friendly
" (the 870 P), but I guess I still expect a gas gun to be a little more gentle. At this point, the 1301 may be the best affordable semiauto shotgun mousetrap out there, but I am getting older, not younger; I want my bell rung a little less briskly.

The reactions of various shooters on this thread to the 1301's recoil has interested me for awhile. I went ahead and bought one and was very pleased at the weight and a little surprised to find the recoil quite tolerable with a variety of loads. A week ago, I went skeet shooting with a buddy and took the 870 TB I bought in 1976. I shot a lot of trap with it in high school but used a team 1100 in college for both trap and skeet. The 870 is clearly heavier than the 1301 but after only two rounds of skeet with 1 1/8 ounce loads, I went home with a headache and ordered some 7/8 ounce loads. I have a slug barrel for the 870 (and you will never see another slug gun with such pretty wood) and distinctly remember not enjoying shooting full power slugs through it. I'm old, too. While I still have a fondness for powerful guns and cars, the only powerful things that love me back anymore are strong drinks!😁

[gato naranja]

I'm old, too. While I still have a fondness for powerful guns and cars, the only powerful things that love me back anymore are strong drinks!😁

Simple physics is kicking my ancient butt. My 870P was put on a weight gain regimen - and then restricted to reduced-recoil loads - to make the recoil tolerable, but I very much liked the idea of a (relatively) affordable autoloader that is equally reliable. Post-rental, my SWAG self-assessment of the 1301's kick and the cost/benefit analysis makes me think I might as well keep "Officer Friendly" for as little as I plan on using a 12 gauge in my remaining time on this rock.

[Lon]

Simple physics is kicking my ancient butt. My 870P was put on a weight gain regimen - and then restricted to reduced-recoil loads - to make the recoil tolerable, but I very much liked the idea of a (relatively) affordable autoloader that is equally reliable. Post-rental, my SWAG self-assessment of the 1301's kick and the cost/benefit analysis makes me think I might as well keep "Officer Friendly" for as little as I plan on using a 12 gauge in my remaining time on this rock.

For recoil on a 1301 - I found the simple addition of a Limbsaver recoil pad helped w the recoil. Make that a Magpul stock/adapter/Limbsaver set up and it’s even better.

[Pnut]

On the topic of recoil, I went to the range last week. I brought my Benelli M1, and my friends brought a 101T and a Mossberg 590. I was surprised that the Mossberg had the lightest recoil, followed by the 1301, hen the M1.

I don’t know if it made a difference, but the M1 had a field stock while the others had pistol grip stocks. The Mossberg has 6 rounds on a side saddle as well

[WobblyPossum]

Are there any downsides to the pro-style lifter that rests in the up position? Could it negatively affect reliability at all? Would it still be possible to keep a round ghost loaded on the lifter without damaging the springs?

[Centerfire]

Are there any downsides to the pro-style lifter that rests in the up position? Could it negatively affect reliability at all? Would it still be possible to keep a round ghost loaded on the lifter without damaging the springs?

The Pro lifter is finicky to ghost load. That is the main downside that I can think of.

[WobblyPossum]

The Pro lifter is finicky to ghost load. That is the main downside that I can think of.

That’s a bummer. I prefer the balance with the 5 round tube compared to the +2 extension so ghost loading is how I get a capacity that’s close enough since there’s still enough give in the mag spring with the 5 round tube to not crush the shells if it stays loaded to capacity for a long time.

[Centerfire]

That’s a bummer. I prefer the balance with the 5 round tube compared to the +2 extension so ghost loading is how I get a capacity that’s close enough since there’s still enough give in the mag spring with the 5 round tube to not crush the shells if it stays loaded to capacity for a long time.

You can still ghost load with it...it's just a little more difficult.

[WobblyPossum]

You can still ghost load with it...it's just a little more difficult.

Ok so it’s just a more complicated manipulation? Not some kind of functional impairment?

[Pnut]

I have the PRO LIFTER in my gun, so here are my observations. Loading the mag is easier since the lifter is not in the way. It can be ghost loaded, but like Centerfire said, you’ll need to press down the lifter to seat the shell. It’s not that big a deal since you won’t be ghost loading under stress.

One minor issue with the pro lifter is port loading the gun. This issue ONLY happens if you’re trying to swap a chambered round. For example, you have a buck shot round in the chamber, but need to put a slug in the gun. You pull back the charging handle and eject the chambered round. As you hold back the handle to drop in the new round into the ejection port, the lifter is in the raised position, slightly blocking port. The new round needs to be PUSHED into the chamber, overcoming the spring pressure of the lifter. With the factory lifter, the new round can simply be dropped into the port since the lifter would be in the down position.

This issue is very minor and shouldn’t detract from the prolifter.

[WobblyPossum]

Thank you. This is what I needed to know. I’m waiting for them to come back in stock on the Beretta site. How hard are they to install?

[shootist26]

Easy to install. There is one step where I recommend doing it in a gallon sized zip lock bag due to the possibility of launching a part that is under spring tension. Other than that it is straight forward.

[Oldherkpilot]

Easy to install. There is one step where I recommend doing it in a gallon sized zip lock bag due to the possibility of launching a part that is under spring tension. Other than that it is straight forward.

So you use a gallon sized zip lock bag in lieu of a sterilized operating room, painted bright white, with no furniture and a dozen 100 watt light fixtures, hmmmm. Interesting.😁

[Pnut]

So you use a gallon sized zip lock bag in lieu of a sterilized operating room, painted bright white, with no furniture and a dozen 100 watt light fixtures, hmmmm. Interesting.😁

I also recommend placing a high powered magnet around just in case the pin does go flying off!!!

[trajiiic]

GG&G 1301 follower worked flawlessly. We probably went through 60+ slugs.

The Primary Arms MD-20 on the CROM is still going strong after all this time also. Just make sure you use loctite and witness mark your bolts.

[Oldherkpilot]

Beretta notified me that the Pro Lifters were back in stock. Mine is on the way.

[Centerfire]

I have the PRO LIFTER in my gun, so here are my observations. Loading the mag is easier since the lifter is not in the way. It can be ghost loaded, but like Centerfire said, you’ll need to press down the lifter to seat the shell. It’s not that big a deal since you won’t be ghost loading under stress.

One minor issue with the pro lifter is port loading the gun. This issue ONLY happens if you’re trying to swap a chambered round. For example, you have a buck shot round in the chamber, but need to put a slug in the gun. You pull back the charging handle and eject the chambered round. As you hold back the handle to drop in the new round into the ejection port, the lifter is in the raised position, slightly blocking port. The new round needs to be PUSHED into the chamber, overcoming the spring pressure of the lifter. With the factory lifter, the new round can simply be dropped into the port since the lifter would be in the down position.

This issue is very minor and shouldn’t detract from the prolifter.

That is a good point, you can't just drop a shell into the ejection port and chamber it. The shell has to be pressed into the lifter. I can see how that may be a negative for some people depending on how you use the gun.

[trajiiic]

I've never had an issue ghost loading with the pro lifter. I also have a match saver which works fine with the pro lifter since it's in the down position when the gun runs empty.

I suppose that when switch ammo types with a loaded magazine tube it would be in the up position, but it doesn't prevent me from easily popping a slug into the receiver. That being said, not as easy as the normal lifter which stays in the down position most of the time.

I'd say go for it if you want a pro lifter.

[314159]

Any good links on how to properly change out the lifter on a 1301? Thanks...
In the past, I've noted Beretta sends no instructions with parts ordered from them.

[shootist26]

Delete

[shootist26]

https://youtu.be/Kr5-9TeLRsY

This is the video I used

The pro lifter goes on the same as the standard lifter

[TCinVA]

95544

...so if you wanted an upgraded follower...

https://www.facebook.com/AridusIndustries/posts/pfbid02AqyoqyeNrx1dwo6AMDkcM9mDPKrwr79jtRSYgq5MVxz DjYfoqvpJcYDxuQASLuNnl

[Pnut]

Sweet follower.. but I never really understood why people upgrade when the factory piece works fine?!?! I understand the desire to add every bell and whistle to your prized possession… I’ve done a bunch of CUSTOM mods to my guns to make them mine.

But is there really any advantage to an aftermarket follower besides the color and tactile feel over the factory piece?

[TCinVA]

color and tactile feel over the factory piece?

Both make it easier to ensure that there isn't a shell in the tube.

That doesn't make a difference until it does, and then it makes a really big one.

[OlongJohnson]

Sweet follower.. but I never really understood why people upgrade when the factory piece works fine?!?! I understand the desire to add every bell and whistle to your prized possession… I’ve done a bunch of CUSTOM mods to my guns to make them mine.

But is there really any advantage to an aftermarket follower besides the color and tactile feel over the factory piece?

Made in USA and 922(r).

[trajiiic]

95544

...so if you wanted an upgraded follower...

https://www.facebook.com/AridusIndustries/posts/pfbid02AqyoqyeNrx1dwo6AMDkcM9mDPKrwr79jtRSYgq5MVxz DjYfoqvpJcYDxuQASLuNnl

This screams "Jeep Guy" mod to me, IDK why. Maybe it's the green that's polarizing to me.

Anyone who gets one for the 1301 and puts 500 shells on it, let us know!

[GearFondler]

This screams "Jeep Guy" mod to me, IDK why. Maybe it's the green that's polarizing to me.

Anyone who gets one for the 1301 and puts 500 shells on it, let us know!Does the green look a bit tacky/cheesy? Yes.
Is green easier than red to see in low light/shadows? Yes.
I'll take the green, thank you very much.

[RevolverRob]

I'm digging the follower from a functional perspective. But someone on IG compared it to a bejeweled butt plug and I can't unsee it.

I may have to butt plug my shotguns.

[Pnut]

I'm digging the follower from a functional perspective. But someone on IG compared it to a bejeweled butt plug and I can't unsee it.

I may have to butt plug my shotguns.

If you still have the factory charging handle, then you’ll have 2 butt plugs!!!

[Oldherkpilot]

Beretta notified me that the Pro Lifters were back in stock. Mine is on the way.

Beretta doesn't mess around-my Pro Lifter arrived today.

[WobblyPossum]

Guess I’ll be placing another order with Aridus soon.

[GyroF-16]

Guess I’ll be placing another order with Aridus soon.

Yeah, same…

My red aftermarket, US-made follower seem fine, until the green tactile bejeweled buttplug was offered…

[titsonritz]

I'll be replacing my GG&G follower when the Aridus when it comes available.

[user.n]

So after spending close to an hour and going back 80 pages I have to ask...... what is the consensus of the GG&G vs Aridus stock adapters?

This thread is a plethora of information but its a shame it only loads 10 replies per page which makes ingesting it a bit hard.

[trajiiic]

I'm anxiously waiting for Adam's response to our butt plug comparison. lol.

[Pnut]

So after spending close to an hour and going back 80 pages I have to ask...... what is the consensus of the GG&G vs Aridus stock adapters?

This thread is a plethora of information but its a shame it only loads 10 replies per page which makes ingesting it a bit hard.

No feedback on the Aridus follower yet because it hasn’t been released yet. As for the GGG, some have had issues, but it turned out those that did received the wrong part. The correct part seems to work fine.

[GearFondler]

So after spending close to an hour and going back 80 pages I have to ask...... what is the consensus of the GG&G vs Aridus stock adapters?

This thread is a plethora of information but its a shame it only loads 10 replies per page which makes ingesting it a bit hard.

The GG&G includes the shock absorber which seems like a nice addition since the factory stock had one but neither version they sell is as ergonomic as the Aridus adapter as both of them feature increased trigger reach with the Remington adapter being particularly long.
No one I'm aware of has reported any long term issues from the lack of a buffer in the Aridus unit and it seems LTT only switched to the GG&G option due to Aridus struggling to keep up with their parts demand.

[Pnut]

Woops… with all the recent talk about FOLLOWERS, I thought that was what u were asking about. But yes, what GearFondler said

But I do have the GGG/Mossberg setup and haven’t had any problems. I chose it due to availability. I haven’t handled the Aridus but from pictures I’ve seen, the GGG might be 1/4”-1/2” more LOP than the Aridus.

The Aridus is sold through the Beretta site though, so I’m sure that says something about the quality.

[EzGoingKev]

This thread is a plethora of information but its a shame it only loads 10 replies per page which makes ingesting it a bit hard.
You can go into your settings and change it to load up to 40 posts per page.

[titsonritz]

So after spending close to an hour and going back 80 pages I have to ask...... what is the consensus of the GG&G vs Aridus stock adapters?

This thread is a plethora of information but its a shame it only loads 10 replies per page which makes ingesting it a bit hard.


The GG&G includes the shock absorber which seems like a nice addition since the factory stock had one but neither version they sell is as ergonomic as the Aridus adapter as both of them feature increased trigger reach with the Remington adapter being particularly long.
No one I'm aware of has reported any long term issues from the lack of a buffer in the Aridus unit and it seems LTT only switched to the GG&G option due to Aridus struggling to keep up with their parts demand.

^^^Pretty much this. The Aridus has a much nicer execution of the part IMO but as mentioned does not have the shock absorber. I guess only time will tell whether the lack of one will make a difference in the long run. Being left-handed I actually find the slight increase in trigger reach a plus as helps keep my trigger finger further away from the Q-DC and smacking it under recoil which I would did every once in a while with the Aridus.

[GyroF-16]

^^^Pretty much this. The Aridus has a much nicer execution of the part IMO but as mentioned does not have the shock absorber. I guess only time will tell whether the lack of one will make a difference in the long run. Being left-handed I actually find the slight increase in trigger reach a plus as helps keep my trigger finger further away from the Q-DC and smacking it under recoil which I would did every once in a while with the Aridus.

Can you elaborate on the bolded part? What Q-DC (Quick Disconnect? Like a sling mount socket?). The left side of my receiver is pretty bare. What are you talking about? (I’m left-handed).

[WobblyPossum]

Can you elaborate on the bolded part? What Q-DC (Quick Disconnect? Like a sling mount socket?). The left side of my receiver is pretty bare. What are you talking about? (I’m left-handed).

The QDC is the Aridus Quick Detach Carrier side saddle that a lot of folks are running on their 1301. I haven’t tried it myself as I’m just running Vang Comp Velcro cards over loop Velcro I’ve stuck to the left side of the receiver. Lost of positive reviews of the QDC out there.

[GyroF-16]

The QDC is the Aridus Quick Detach Carrier side saddle that a lot of folks are running on their 1301. I haven’t tried it myself as I’m just running Vang Comp Velcro cards over loop Velcro I’ve stuck to the left side of the receiver. Lost of positive reviews of the QDC out there.

Ah- got it. (Light bulb flickered on).
I passed on the Aridus side saddle for just that reason as a Lefty. Laid the template on the receiver and could immediately see the conflict with my left trigger finger. Using Esstac cards with good results so far.

[titsonritz]

Can you elaborate on the bolded part? What Q-DC (Quick Disconnect? Like a sling mount socket?). The left side of my receiver is pretty bare. What are you talking about? (I’m left-handed).

As mentioned I was talking about the Aridus Q-DC, it is partly my own fault as I left a small gap between the unit and the handguard. Hindsight being 20/20 I would have push the the Q-DC forward all the way to the handguard. I only go the bash using the Aridus stock adapter if my technique was sloppy, but GG&G adapt is slightly thicker so the issue went away. I use to use Velcro shotgun cards but much prefer the Aridus Q-DC. You can see the gap in this photo...

https://i.imgur.com/qEvmSbU.jpg

[RevolverRob]

Does the green look a bit tacky/cheesy? Yes.
Is green easier than red to see in low light/shadows? Yes.
I'll take the green, thank you very much.

BTW I'll just put this out there for folks to know: Humans can distinguish the more shades of green than any other color. So a green follower should be the most visible in a low light/shadowed environment.

Of course doesn't matter if your Red/Green colorblind. In those cases blue and yellow are the most visibly striking and different from one another.

[Oldherkpilot]

I am considering replacing the factory stock on my 1301. I will need to buy both the stock and adaptor. Any advantage to a Remington set up over Mossberg or vice versa? I have followed this thread closely but missed it if this has been covered. Thanks.

[trajiiic]

I am considering replacing the factory stock on my 1301. I will need to buy both the stock and adapter. Any advantage to a Remington set up over Mossberg or vice versa? I have followed this thread closely but missed it if this has been covered. Thanks.

I have the GG&G adapter with the Remington stock. I would lean toward the Mossberg stock and adapter unless you have larger hands or prefer a longer reach to the trigger.

I wear a L in Mechanix brand gloves and would say I have normal size hands.

So far I like it but am considering switching to the Mossberg since it looks like the better option for both a thicker grip and shorter LOP. See my post somewhere in this thread where I have pics and measurements compared to OEM stock.

[TCinVA]

I am considering replacing the factory stock on my 1301. I will need to buy both the stock and adaptor. Any advantage to a Remington set up over Mossberg or vice versa? I have followed this thread closely but missed it if this has been covered. Thanks.

The Remington stock adapter makes the reach to the trigger absurdly long and completely defeats the point of replacing the stock, IMO. The GG&G Mossberg adapter is not ideal, but it works better than their Remington version for anyone who doesn't have salad fingers.

[Pnut]

Just curious. What isn’t IDEAL about the GGG/Mossberg setup? I haven’t handled the Aridus so I have no first hand knowledge between the two.

[TCinVA]

Just curious. What isn’t IDEAL about the GGG/Mossberg setup? I haven’t handled the Aridus so I have no first hand knowledge between the two.

It still extends reach to the trigger farther than the Aridus + SGA combo. Which I personally hate.

I've got lots of time on a 1301 with the SGA mounted and the first time I picked up one with the GG&G mount everything landed wrong. I could get used to it if I had to...but I don't have to.

[RevolverRob]

I am trying to convince myself that I don't want a 21" Comp Pro instead of a 1301T.

I know I want screw-in chokes. I know the Zhukov adapter works with both Comp and Tactical. I like the kick-off system in the Comp Pro. I've never found a big difference (for me) between a 18.5" and 21" barrel. Rustynuts makes Micro-pattern optics mounts for both Tacticals and the Comps. And for the life of my, I really like that stupid blue anodized receiver on the Comp Pro. And I hate that Marinecote or whatever it is called finish on the Gen2s I can currently find available.

The only detractions I can find with the 1301CP vs. 1301T - No ghost rings to cowitness my optic. LOP is long on the 1301CP at 14", but it's readily cast and drop adjustable and my proper LOP is closer to 15" anyways. I just tend to run short shotgun stocks because my wife is 5'2" and has a 13.5" LOP. But she has her own dedicated and built up gun. So, I can focus on mine...

[Pnut]

It still extends reach to the trigger farther than the Aridus + SGA combo. Which I personally hate.

I've got lots of time on a 1301 with the SGA mounted and the first time I picked up one with the GG&G mount everything landed wrong. I could get used to it if I had to...but I don't have to.

Thanks for the info! I guess for me, ignorance is bliss since I haven’t handled a Aridus equipped gun. Does anyone here know the different LOP measurements between the GGG and the Aridus?

[Caballoflaco]

I am trying to convince myself that I don't want a 21" Comp Pro instead of a 1301T.

I know I want screw-in chokes. I know the Zhukov adapter works with both Comp and Tactical. I like the kick-off system in the Comp Pro. I've never found a big difference (for me) between a 18.5" and 21" barrel. Rustynuts makes Micro-pattern optics mounts for both Tacticals and the Comps. And for the life of my, I really like that stupid blue anodized receiver on the Comp Pro. And I hate that Marinecote or whatever it is called finish on the Gen2s I can currently find available.

The only detractions I can find with the 1301CP vs. 1301T - No ghost rings to cowitness my optic. LOP is long on the 1301CP at 14", but it's readily cast and drop adjustable and my proper LOP is closer to 15" anyways. I just tend to run short shotgun stocks because my wife is 5'2" and has a 13.5" LOP. But she has her own dedicated and built up gun. So, I can focus on mine...

The loading port on the comp is also larger with the use of the 3 1/2” size reciever.

I know we disagree on the need for rifle sights on a defensive gun, but the raised rib on the comp is well done if you don’t want to immediately put a dot on it.

[RevolverRob]

The loading port on the comp is also larger with the use of the 3 1/2” size reciever.

I know we disagree on the need for rifle sights on a defensive gun, but the raised rib on the comp is well done if you don’t want to immediately put a dot on it.

I def like raised vent ribs overall as well. Is the Comp receiver considerably larger than a 1301T?

I'm wondering with the Rusty Nuts Aimpoint mount if one can get the optic low enough to co-witness with rib-mounted irons?

[Caballoflaco]

I def like raised vent ribs overall as well. Is the Comp receiver considerably larger than a 1301T?

I'm wondering with the Rusty Nuts Aimpoint mount if one can get the optic low enough to co-witness with rib-mounted irons?

To me it’s not overly large, but it does loose the surprisingly compact feeling I got when I first handled a regular 1301. It doesn’t feel noticeably larger than my old 1100 did, but I haven’t had that gun in a while to make a side by side comparison.

ETA: unsure on rib mounted sights and a co-witness.

[mmc45414]

I'm wondering with the Rusty Nuts Aimpoint mount if one can get the optic low enough to co-witness with rib-mounted irons?

I have one on order for an MRO, stay tuned...



Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[mmc45414]

I am trying to convince myself that I don't want a 21" Comp Pro instead of a 1301T.

More on this, I briefly owned both a Tactical and a 21" Comp.
I decided that since I was shooting the Comp every month my defensive shotgun needs were met, and a friend wanted a Tactical, so I sold it, perhaps to replace it again someday.
But.... I got a pistol with an SRO now and will probably start shooting in Open class, so I am going to try a MRO (Rustynuts mount on order) on the shotgun, and I will have a longer tube, so maybe I will get a 24" Comp and restore the 21" to a more practical/handy configuration.


I like the kick-off system in the Comp Pro.
it's readily cast and drop adjustable and my proper LOP is closer to 15" anyways.
bruceride has a Comp Pro and it will not go quite as short as mine, but it goes pretty short.


The loading port on the comp is also larger with the use of the 3 1/2” size receiver.
I know we disagree on the need for rifle sights on a defensive gun, but the raised rib on the comp is well done if you don’t want to immediately put a dot on it.

I def like raised vent ribs overall as well. Is the Comp receiver considerably larger than a 1301T?
And it is a very nice, high rib.
The receiver is not that big, just based on the 3.5" guns (but still only 3" chamber).


To me it’s not overly large, but it does loose the surprisingly compact feeling I got when I first handled a regular 1301.
IMO some of this impression is because the Tactical just appears to be so darn short. :cool:


I have one on order for an MRO, stay tuned...
If they had a RMR/SRO option for the Comp I might try a 5MOA SRO, but I have MORs on my three ARs so I am going that direction (them being more like $400, I admit, is part of that decision matrix...).

[trajiiic]

I switched from the Remington GG&G Magpul SGA stock & adapter to their Mossberg version. IMHO the Mossberg version is much better.

For anyone asking which one to buy, get the Mossberg.

[Pnut]

For those ordering the RUSTY NUTS mount, I’ve had one on my 1301T for several hundred rounds and it’s worked great! No zero shift yet and it does co-witness with the factory irons.

One thing to be cautious of… I received one of their first batch of mounts and the included mounting screws were too long. They extended too far into the receiver and blocked the bolt. I’m sure they resolved the issue by now.

[Clusterfrack]

Moved posts about the Aridus SMRT follower to a new thread (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?54833-Aridus-SMRT-Follower-for-1301).

[Flyboytim]

Does the Pro-Lifter alteration cause any issues when port loading?

https://youtu.be/KfjBaVre8FA

[NickDrak]

Any feedback on the Lancer carbon fiber +2 magazine tubes? I tried searching but couldn’t find anything referring to user feedback on them. I just ordered one from Primary Arms.

[mmc45414]

I have one on order for an MRO, stay tuned...

Rusty Nuts mount (for the Comp) came in the mail, and it is different from the pictures, in a good way (IMO).
It will mount pretty much centered over the receiver, where I would rather have it (less weight forward is good IMO).
Brownells has the MRO in stock for only $390 and since I cave for the Edge membership I can get two day shipping, have it to test this weekend and use it for three gun next weekend, so I just ordered another MRO. I have three of them and when I hatched this plan I intended to borrow one from one of the ARs (I have three), but for $390 I decided to not screw with all that.

Stay Tuned... :cool:

[Pnut]

Let’s see some pics of the RN mount for the COMP! When I was setting up the RN for my Tactical, I was trying to figure out why optic was mounted in the forward position. I realized the MRO footprint wouldn’t allow it to sit any further back while maintaining access to the receiver mounting holes.

I figure that since the comps receiver is longer, it allows access to the mounting holes.

[mmc45414]

Let’s see some pics of the RN mount for the COMP!
I was in a hurry this morning:
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96848


When I was setting up the RN for my Tactical, I was trying to figure out why optic was mounted in the forward position. I realized the MRO footprint wouldn’t allow it to sit any further back while maintaining access to the receiver mounting holes.

I figure that since the comps receiver is longer, it allows access to the mounting holes.

I think you are also competing with the rear peep sight. This puts it right on top of the receiver, and you can even flip it forward or backward:
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96850

As I mentioned, the optic is on order, I decided to not pull one off of something that is sighted in, I can wait a couple days for a new one. :cool:

[Pnut]

I didn’t realize the COMP didn’t have a rear sight. That makes a lot more room to work around!

It might be overkill, but I bedded my mount to the gun with E6000. I learned that trick on this forum with pistol RDS base plates and it worked great. I figure it should work for the shotgun too. I have several hundred rounds through the 1301 and the RN plate hadn’t moved.

One other thing I noticed about your setup… I had to switch the side saddle with the shells facing up. With the MRO on top, it makes getting the shells out and loading over the top a little difficult, but you experience might be different than mine.

[mmc45414]

It might be overkill, but I bedded my mount to the gun with E6000. I learned that trick on this forum with pistol RDS base plates and it worked great. I figure it should work for the shotgun too. I have several hundred rounds through the 1301 and the RN plate hadn’t moved.
Interested in this, I was/am contemplating putting a few dabs of RTV caulk on mine. I was in the graphics business and learned the benefits of having a sturdy adhesive that never gets solid (I learned this the hard way, after having some rigidly mounting things crash offa the wall...). Plus if you ever need it to come off you can saw it off with some braided fishing line.

I read a little on the E6000, seems like the same approach only rubber based instead of silicone based? Do you know if the E6000 has some special mojo?


One other thing I noticed about your setup… I had to switch the side saddle with the shells facing up. With the MRO on top, it makes getting the shells out and loading over the top a little difficult, but you experience might be different than mine.

Good point...
That card is just some #1 buckshot rounds I usually slap on there when I put it in the safe after taking it out to play once a month... :cool:

[Pnut]

E6000 is an industrial grade rubber cement. I put a thin layer on the mating surfaces of the mount, avoiding the mounting holes. Then torque down to the receiver. Some will ooze out the seems. Let the ooze dry a bit and scrape off with a plastic razor. Any remnants can be rubbed off with a pencil eraser.

Just an observation with my setup. Since I got one of the first runs of the RN mount, it was shipped with mounting screw that were too long. I only had the mount on my gun for about an hour with the E6000 applied on the entire mating surfaces, including the ribbed center area. When I removed the mount, the E6000 in the ribbed area was still tacky and not fully dried. I think it was because gap in that area required additional time to completely cure.

When I got the correct length screws, I only applied the E6000 to the outer edges of the mount where there is solid contact with the receiver. I only did this because I had a range trip planned for the next day and didn’t want to worry about any un-cured adhesive.

[El Cid]

Very happy with this setup. GGG mount with S&S Precision IFM, and SF scouts.

https://i.imgur.com/5MEBWxh_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

https://i.imgur.com/dZSDocr_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

https://i.imgur.com/E8SKuqZ_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

[Pnut]

Nice setup! I need to look into that light body. Haven’t heard of them before. Do you plan on mounting a sling?

[El Cid]

Nice setup! I need to look into that light body. Haven’t heard of them before. Do you plan on mounting a sling?

They have a few options.
https://www.sandsprecision.com/illum-marking.html

No plans for a sling right now. This is not used for ho e defense or anything. Strictly a backpacking tool to avoid being eaten. The goal is to have it in a scabbard on my pack and I fear a sling will impede that.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

They have a few options.
https://www.sandsprecision.com/illum-marking.html

No plans for a sling right now. This is not used for ho e defense or anything. Strictly a backpacking tool to avoid being eaten. The goal is to have it in a scabbard on my pack and I fear a sling will impede that.

S&S is top shelf & Cid either in a PM, another thread or this one mind sharing the scabbard choice/s?

[El Cid]

Cid either in a PM, another thread or this one mind sharing the scabbard choice/s?

I’m still researching that. Eberlestock has one that looks promising. But my go to pack is a Khard 60 which doesn’t lend itself to attachments on the outside. Wish I could be more help.

[Centerfire]

I was in a hurry this morning:
96846
96847
96848



I think you are also competing with the rear peep sight. This puts it right on top of the receiver, and you can even flip it forward or backward:
96849
96850

As I mentioned, the optic is on order, I decided to not pull one off of something that is sighted in, I can wait a couple days for a new one. :cool:

Seems strange they only utilize two of the four screw holes. I get it with the open emitor pistol sights but MRO's aren't exactly lightweight. There isn't a good reason for grabbing at least three holes, if not four.

[mmc45414]

Seems strange they only utilize two of the four screw holes. I get it with the open emitter pistol sights but MRO's aren't exactly lightweight. There isn't a good reason for grabbing at least three holes, if not four.
I thought the same thing, but the more I look at it, I think they are striving for lowness, and the front of the MRO needs clearance. I guess this means it will only mount in one orientation:

96873

I REALLY want this to work with the factory stock, so I am in favor of lowness. From the RN www site (https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount):

96874

Weight without mount is listed as 4.1oz with an installed battery, I am sure the thing is pretty strong (they list it as 6061), but I am inclined to dab a little RTV under it when I mount it. This is not a safe queen, it is for three gun, so it gets used monthly, sometimes with stout loads (those damn MGM spinners...) and tossed into trash cans for transitions, so we shall see.

Will know more about the fitment soon! :cool:

96875

[Centerfire]

I thought the same thing, but the more I look at it, I think they are striving for lowness, and the front of the MRO needs clearance. I guess this means it will only mount in one orientation:

96873

I REALLY want this to work with the factory stock, so I am in favor of lowness. From the RN www site (https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount):

96874

Weight without mount is listed as 4.1oz with an installed battery, I am sure the thing is pretty strong (they list it as 6061), but I am inclined to dab a little RTV under it when I mount it. This is not a safe queen, it is for three gun, so it gets used monthly, sometimes with stout loads (those damn MGM spinners...) and tossed into trash cans for transitions, so we shall see.

Will know more about the fitment soon! :cool:

96875

Please post some pictures when you get a chance. I'm also curious about long term durability. Perhaps it doesn't matter on a competition gun, frankly none of the RDS mounts for this platform seem all that strong but there aren't widescale reports of failures. The 1301T actually has a fifth hole for the LPA elevation screw yet none of the sight/mount manufacturers use it for a pinned lug. Either I'm blowing this out of proportion or none of these mounts should be trusted. My gut says the latter.

[Caballoflaco]

I REALLY want this to work with the factory stock, so I am in favor of lowness. From the RN www site (https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount):



What drop spacer are you running? I’m a lanky dude with eyeholes kinda far up in my head and the 50mm shoots just a bit too high unless I bury my face in the stock, I think it would be pretty workable with that optic mount.

[mmc45414]

Please post some pictures when you get a chance.
Soon!! :cool:
96961


I'm also curious about long term durability. Perhaps it doesn't matter on a competition gun, frankly none of the RDS mounts for this platform seem all that strong but there aren't widescale reports of failures.
While this will indeed only be a competition gun, it probably gets more use (abuse) than many (most?) more tactically orientated ones. For one thing it gets pulled out of the safe and shot every single month, and the typical CoF involves tossing it around during transitions (take your ~$1500 gun and toss it in a trash can, while you are in a hurry...). Not like crashing into door frames serving warrants, but not exactly like a trap gun either.

But I agree it looked kinda skinny when I got it, but I went down and measured it and it is maybe more robust than initial impressions indicated.

96962 96963

So the skinny part is almost 1/8" thick (it is concave on the bottom), and the screws are 4mm. And the mount being so low means force doesn't have leverage on it like on an AR.


The 1301T actually has a fifth hole for the LPA elevation screw yet none of the sight/mount manufacturers use it for a pinned lug.
You might be able to sneak a third screw in under the front objective on the MRO, maybe even more likely with the Aimpoint option.


Either I'm blowing this out of proportion or none of these mounts should be trusted. My gut says the latter.
All of it being held by two screws is probably strong enough to hold up to anything the optic could survive, but we all would probably like at least three. But two screws is probably plenty, as long as there are both of them, I am most concerned about one screw coming just slightly loose and creating extra force on the remaining one.

The process starts Sunday, my plan is to take it out test fire and zero, then shoot it next Sunday at three gun.

[mmc45414]

What drop spacer are you running? I’m a lanky dude with eyeholes kinda far up in my head and the 50mm shoots just a bit too high unless I bury my face in the stock, I think it would be pretty workable with that optic mount.
Hmmmm, I do not remember...
I will be conscious of this when I get the mount mounted. I will probably take the recoil pad off just to know where I am as a baseline.

[Pnut]

I’m going to keep my fingers crossed with the two mounting screws. I’ve had the RN/MRO setup on my gun for several hundred rounds and it’s held up so far. My setup is only for home defense purposes, so it really doesn’t get abused though.

I’d like to place my faith in the Beretta engineers as well. If they thought that 2 screws were enough to hold the factory rail, then hopefully it will be good enough for an aftermarket mount.

[Centerfire]

Soon!! :cool:
96961


While this will indeed only be a competition gun, it probably gets more use (abuse) than many (most?) more tactically orientated ones. For one thing it gets pulled out of the safe and shot every single month, and the typical CoF involves tossing it around during transitions (take your ~$1500 gun and toss it in a trash can, while you are in a hurry...). Not like crashing into door frames serving warrants, but not exactly like a trap gun either.

But I agree it looked kinda skinny when I got it, but I went down and measured it and it is maybe more robust than initial impressions indicated.

96962 96963

So the skinny part is almost 1/8" thick (it is concave on the bottom), and the screws are 4mm. And the mount being so low means force doesn't have leverage on it like on an AR.


You might be able to sneak a third screw in under the front objective on the MRO, maybe even more likely with the Aimpoint option.


All of it being held by two screws is probably strong enough to hold up to anything the optic could survive, but we all would probably like at least three. But two screws is probably plenty, as long as there are both of them, I am most concerned about one screw coming just slightly loose and creating extra force on the remaining one.

The process starts Sunday, my plan is to take it out test fire and zero, then shoot it next Sunday at three gun.

My comments are regarding the fasteners, not the actual mount itself.

[mmc45414]

My comments are regarding the fasteners, not the actual mount itself.
Gotcha.
The aluminum receiver is probably the weak link, I will try and remember to measure it when I have the plugs out of it.

[mmc45414]

More later, but I just mocked things up and it is not working, but if it worked it would be phenomenal.
The thing was so low (a good thing) it was interfering on the ridge in the casting that Trijicon leaves. I want this to work bad enough that I whittled away on the optic (if this doesn't work I will use it somewhere else so not worried about returning it), but I got that dealt with and the holes in the mount are not matching with the holes in the optic.
Will get some pictures later. I also want to not be a dick on the www before I give RN visibility to this.
Gotta run out and buy something to cook for dinner right now.

[Pnut]

Info only about the mount/rail screws… according to Midwest Gun Works, they are 8-36 screws. Others say M4 screws will also work.

[Pnut]

More later, but I just mocked things up and it is not working, but if it worked it would be phenomenal.
The thing was so low (a good thing) it was interfering on the ridge in the casting that Trijicon leaves. I want this to work bad enough that I whittled away on the optic (if this doesn't work I will use it somewhere else so not worried about returning it), but I got that dealt with and the holes in the mount are not matching with the holes in the optic.
Will get some pictures later. I also want to not be a dick on the www before I give RN visibility to this.
Gotta run out and buy something to cook for dinner right now.

Any updates on this? I’m waiting patiently to see how this turns out!

[NickDrak]

Just set up the new Modlite PDW350 on my 1301. PDW350 is mounted on the Nordic components barrel clamp picatinny rail. Unity MLOK HotButton attached to slot on handguard. I dig the set up very much so far.
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[mmc45414]

Any updates on this? I’m waiting patiently to see how this turns out!
Yes and no. I am corresponding with Rusty, he has been very responsive, and he asked me to take some measurements.
But this is obviously not his full time job, and he let me know he is out of town (or he might be on vacation or something) so resolution will be delayed until he gets back.

I am being very careful not to be some dickhead that trashes someone who is doing something cool, but it looks (to me) like he may have had a batch where there is a dimensional goof on the hole pattern that mates with the Trijicon. Also the things is very low, low enough there was some interferance with the flashing that is from the MRO housing casting. I think mine has an extra special big flashing, and I was willing to alter the MRO housing but many/most people probably do not wanna.

The current situation is don't order one yet, you wouldn't get it shipped until he gets back anyway, and he seems like a good dood that is working with me to get this figured out. Lemme give him time to get in front of this before I post a bunch of pictures and stuff, I have a good feeling he will figure it out. I sure hope so, because the product would/will be exactly what I want and there are really not many other options for the MRO I done went and filed on... :cool:

[NickDrak]

Ordered a +2 Lancer LSX Carbon fiber mag tube. Not sure if they sent me a +3 on accident or if this is in fact how long their +2 tube is? The Lancer tube also prohibits the use of the Nordic barrel clamp as the bottom threaded part is longer than the Nordic or the KZ/Botach tube I was going to replace.
97076

[NickDrak]

97085
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[Pnut]

Whatever the problem with your mount is, I’m sure RN will make it right.

[Oceanbob]

Ordered a +2 Lancer LSX Carbon fiber mag tube. Not sure if they sent me a +3 on accident or if this is in fact how long their +2 tube is? The Lancer tube also prohibits the use of the Nordic barrel clamp as the bottom threaded part is longer than the Nordic or the KZ/Botach tube I was going to replace.
97076

That extension is for a COMP not the Tactical. Now you have an excuse to buy a comp…😁

The Nordic clamp is removed by a large percentage of 1301 gamers because if you notice it will scrape off paint especially on the weak Marinecote paint system.
Bob

[Centerfire]

Ordered a +2 Lancer LSX Carbon fiber mag tube. Not sure if they sent me a +3 on accident or if this is in fact how long their +2 tube is? The Lancer tube also prohibits the use of the Nordic barrel clamp as the bottom threaded part is longer than the Nordic or the KZ/Botach tube I was going to replace.
97076

I believe there are only a couple of +2 extensions for the 1301T that don't extend past the barrel. When I was in the process of converting my gun to a 5rd magazine there were a couple of posts buried in this thread about the Lancer's length. I might be mistaken but I believe the Lancer is +2 for 3" shells whereas the Nordic and GGG are +2 for 2 3/4 shells.

[NickDrak]

Anyone find a source for the factory 7 round magazine tube yet?

[Pnut]

Freedom Fighter Tactical lists a factory mag tube in stock, but doesn’t designate 5 or 7 rounds. I looked up the part # listed, C59948, and it doesn’t specify.

[SwampDweller]

Pardon me if this has been gone over already, but what are the differences between the Gen 2 and Gen 3? I didn't even realize there was a Gen 3 until I went to look on Langdon Tactical's site. Is it an inherent mechanical change to the system, or just minor modifications like furniture and mag tube? I read that the difference was just that you could get a 7 round mag tube factory on the Gen 3, and the corresponding furniture to make it 922r compliant. Is that true?

I'm still wrestling with whether to get a 1301 or a Benelli M4.

[WobblyPossum]

Pardon me if this has been gone over already, but what are the differences between the Gen 2 and Gen 3? I didn't even realize there was a Gen 3 until I went to look on Langdon Tactical's site. Is it an inherent mechanical change to the system, or just minor modifications like furniture and mag tube? I read that the difference was just that you could get a 7 round mag tube factory on the Gen 3, and the corresponding furniture to make it 922r compliant. Is that true?

I'm still wrestling with whether to get a 1301 or a Benelli M4.

My understanding is that the Gen3, or whatever they’re calling the latest version, now has a one-piece magazine tube that holds 7 rounds. The thing that looks like a magazine tube extension is just a plastic cover over the underlying aluminum magazine tube. I’m unaware of any other differences from the Gen3.

[TCinVA]

Pardon me if this has been gone over already, but what are the differences between the Gen 2 and Gen 3? I didn't even realize there was a Gen 3 until I went to look on Langdon Tactical's site. Is it an inherent mechanical change to the system, or just minor modifications like furniture and mag tube? I read that the difference was just that you could get a 7 round mag tube factory on the Gen 3, and the corresponding furniture to make it 922r compliant. Is that true?

I'm still wrestling with whether to get a 1301 or a Benelli M4.

It's not a new gen gun but people seem to insist on calling it that. The 2nd gen uses a different receiver and bolt release arrangement than the first gen. The guns currently being sold still use that updated receiver and bolt release.

The newest tactical guns just have a one piece 7 round magazine tube from the factory in many configurations. You can still get the original 5 round magazine tube in some models as well.

[LukeNCMX]

wrestling with whether to get a 1301 or a Benelli M4.

The M4 is a heavy pig with lots of recoil. The 1301 is lighter, recoils less and cycles much faster. The 1301 is a lot cheaper than the M4. After shooting both back to back it was a no brainer for me.

[SwampDweller]

It's not a new gen gun but people seem to insist on calling it that. The 2nd gen uses a different receiver and bolt release arrangement than the first gen. The guns currently being sold still use that updated receiver and bolt release.

The newest tactical guns just have a one piece 7 round magazine tube from the factory in many configurations. You can still get the original 5 round magazine tube in some models as well.

I'd never even seen Gen 3 terminology until I was looking on Langdon Tactical's 1301 page where it says the following:

August 31, 2022: We will NOT be receiving any more Gen 2 shotguns, and we do not yet have confirmation on availability of the next gen 1301 from Beretta. Please check our Custom Gun Work page to send your existing Gen 1, 2, or 3 1301 to us for upgrades.

With "new gen" are they referring to Gen 3, or is there another one coming or something?

In any case, looking at the page, it looks like getting "Langdonized" consists completely of different accessories and furniture rather than any altering of the mechanics that might increase reliability, is this correct?

https://langdontactical.com/ltt-1301-shotgun/

[mmc45414]

With "new gen" are they referring to Gen 3, or is there another one coming or something?

I think he is just referring to running changes that have come along the way, not sure Beretta ever had a naming convention. The big events were, to the best of my knowledge:
- The first guns had fixed chokes
- Then they went to screw in chokes (with a few other changes along the way, like the bolt release)
- Then they went to a native 7 round mag tube

[Pnut]

I’ve heard people refer to the Gen 3 guns as Gen 2 Plus or Gen 2 Enhanced.

As for the M4 vs 1301… the Benelli has that extra long length of pull too

[RevolverRob]

I think he is just referring to running changes that have come along the way, not sure Beretta ever had a naming convention. The big events were, to the best of my knowledge:
- The first guns had fixed chokes
- Then they went to screw in chokes (with a few other changes along the way, like the bolt release)
- Then they went to a native 7 round mag tube


v1: Fixed Chokes (All Guns) - 5-round mag - No Shroud and Bolt Release that could activate in an unkind way.

v2: Screw-In Chokes (All Guns) - 5-round Mag - Bolt Shroud included

v3: Screw-In Chokes (All Guns) - 5-round Mag - Redesigned Bolt Release

v4: Screw-In Chokes (non-LE Models) - Fixed Chokes (LE Models) - 5-round Mag (non-LE models), 7-round mag (LE models) - Redesigned Bolt Release - Mesa Tactical Urbino (LE Models)

For all intents and purposes, the non-LE models are identical the 'v3' models, while the new LE models are 'v4'.

[CarlK]

Some final touches on my 1301T:



GG&G 2565-R WML bracket and I flipped it 180 degrees and mounted on the right side.
GG&G aluminum replacement mag tube cover (my OEM plastic one had a bolt get stripped out)
Surefire M340C Pro


This is now a very close-to-the-barrel WML set up. I’ve fired 200 rounds through it and everything functions 100% with no loosening of the mag tube cover.

97237
972349723597236

[SwampDweller]

This question might sound silly, but is it possible to obtain wood furniture for the 1301? I like the idea of a capable semi-auto shotgun that pretty much looks like a hunting gun, especially for going out of state to possibly less friendly ones.

I was looking at the 1301 Comp with the 21” or 24" barrel. Too long for home defense? For reference, I don't consider 20" too long for home defense.

[Paul Blackburn]

Some final touches on my 1301T:



GG&G 2565-R WML bracket and I flipped it 180 degrees and mounted on the right side.
GG&G aluminum replacement mag tube cover (my OEM plastic one had a bolt get stripped out)
Surefire M340C Pro


This is now a very close-to-the-barrel WML set up. I’ve fired 200 rounds through it and everything functions 100% with no loosening of the mag tube cover.

97237
972349723597236

Is that a QD sling mount on the left side?

[titsonritz]

GG&G 2565-R WML bracket and I flipped it 180 degrees and mounted on the right side.

I had consider this option when I was setting mine up. Glad to see a photo of how it turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/OCsadqj.jpg

[trajiiic]

This question might sound silly, but is it possible to obtain wood furniture for the 1301? I like the idea of a capable semi-auto shotgun that pretty much looks like a hunting gun, especially for going out of state to possibly less friendly ones.

I was looking at the 1301 Comp with the 21” or 24" barrel. Too long for home defense? For reference, I don't consider 20" too long for home defense.

I did a lot of research on this last year. A Beretta wood stock from a different model can fit a 1301 but the hand guard is only compatible with the Xtrema series, which was never made with wood. Best option would be hydro-dip.

[Centerfire]

This question might sound silly, but is it possible to obtain wood furniture for the 1301? I like the idea of a capable semi-auto shotgun that pretty much looks like a hunting gun, especially for going out of state to possibly less friendly ones.

I was looking at the 1301 Comp with the 21” or 24" barrel. Too long for home defense? For reference, I don't consider 20" too long for home defense.

The 1301T is an A400 youth shotgun receiver. It takes A400 furniture.

[SwampDweller]

The 1301T is an A400 youth shotgun receiver. It takes A400 furniture.

Interesting. Does this include the handguard or just the stock? Also, does this apply to the Comp?

How much mechanically does the 1301 system have in common with previous Beretta autoloading shotgun operating systems? Is it essentially the same? To me that would be a plus in that the operating system can claim the track record of previous Berettas.

[Centerfire]

Interesting. Does this include the handguard or just the stock? Also, does this apply to the Comp?

How much mechanically does the 1301 system have in common with previous Beretta autoloading shotgun operating systems? Is it essentially the same? To me that would be a plus in that the operating system can claim the track record of previous Berettas.

I'm not certain on the handguard. The 1301C is a A400 3 to 3.5 full size receiver. The 1301T and 1301C take different barrels.

[CarlK]

Is that a QD sling mount on the left side?

It is a QD mount.

[Andy in NH]

Took my 1301 to the Gunsite 260 and SATP classes last month.

I fired; ~300 buckshot, ~250 birdshot, ~180 slug.

Three malfunctions - all with birdshot.

First one I think I caused myself and the other two were at night, so I'm not positive what caused them.

(Anyone got a good immediate and remedial action for the 1301?)

I won the SATP shootoff.

97248

[shootist26]

Some final touches on my 1301T:



GG&G 2565-R WML bracket and I flipped it 180 degrees and mounted on the right side.
GG&G aluminum replacement mag tube cover (my OEM plastic one had a bolt get stripped out)
Surefire M340C Pro


This is now a very close-to-the-barrel WML set up. I’ve fired 200 rounds through it and everything functions 100% with no loosening of the mag tube cover.

97237
972349723597236

is that a GGG-2563 and not the 2565-R? If not, what QD mount is that?

[Pnut]

How do you like the GGG mag tube cover?

[CarlK]

is that a GGG-2563 and not the 2565-R? If not, what QD mount is that?

You are correct! It is the 2563. I think it was the left-hand version which I then flipped 180 degrees (the rail extends forward towards the muzzle instead of rearward towards the chamber; this enabled me to mount the Surefire closer to the muzzle to minimize light shadow).

[CarlK]

How do you like the GGG mag tube cover?

The mag tube cover is very robust and hasn’t loosened over two range sessions so far.

[TCinVA]

First one I think I caused myself and the other two were at night, so I'm not positive what caused them.

(Anyone got a good immediate and remedial action for the 1301?)


How did they manifest?

There are generally two that show up, usually related to ammunition more than anything else.

Failure to eject - bolt is partially back, shell is stuck between the ejection port and the bolt. Often this is longways, occasionally it resembles a "stovepipe"
Action - Run the bolt vigorously. In some less common cases you may have to grab the shell itself and pull it out while holding the bolt back.

Failure to feed - Bolt has ejected the spent shell, but did not move far enough back to activate the lifter properly.
Action - Run the bolt vigorously.

Both manifest most often on the 1301 due to ammo. I had a client on Sunday who brought Winchester AAA extra-light birdshot loads to run in his brand new 1301. To my great surprise, the gun only experienced three stoppages (spooky, huh!), each was a click on an empty chamber because the bolt had moved enough to eject the spent shell but not far enough to activate the lifter. The client was new to push/pull and so each of the instances where the gun failed to feed were instances where he flubbed or forgot the push/pull technique, experienced more than normal recoil and let the gun move too much.

The 1301 is so forgiving on what it will run that ammo that's on the bubble will seem like it's working just fine most of the time where in other shotguns they will immediately shut down and refuse to run. They make it obvious that you shouldn't be using that ammunition. The 1301 is remarkably un-Italian in how accommodating it is with things it does not like.

[SwampDweller]

With a quality carbine or pistol, you can count on at least a thousand or more rounds without a stoppage provided proper cleaning, lube, and quality ammo. What kind of reliability can you expect out of a 1301 or other good autoloading shotgun in those terms?

Most of my pistols and rifles easily surpass 2000 mean rounds between stoppages.

[TCinVA]

Shotguns aren't ARs or Glocks.

Shooting any gun through a case of ammunition without lubrication isn't the best way to guarantee reliable function. It is abusive...and acknowledged as such when Todd put it out there in the 2,000 round challenge for pistols.

Every gun runs better when it has been properly lubricated. A 1301 will easily digest the onboard ammunition supply and a full side saddle without issue even if it is bone dry.

Shotguns leave more fouling in the gun than pistols or rifles do just by nature of how they work.

I've gone more than 1,000 shells without cleaning in my 1301 shotguns. I would add lubrication during that period because I wanted the gun to work properly and lubrication aids in reliable function. I've had the gun out in heavy rain where pretty much any lubrication has been washed out of the gun entirely and it's still run through a couple of hundred shells without problem.

So if you insisted on doing it, it's highly likely your 1301 will go through 1,000 shells without cleaning or lubrication. The prize you'd win at the end of that process is a really unpleasant cleaning job that will take a ridiculously long time. And the gun would likely be a bit difficult to disassemble since the piston would want to get stuck to the magazine tube after the gun had cooled down.

I clean my 1301's once a year, generally around the holidays when my shotgun instruction is basically done for the year. I shoot them and clients shoot them all year in classes. I would like to run a bore snake through the guns when I'm done with a day's use at the range, but I'm usually far too busy trying to maintain safety at the end of the class, coordinate cleanup, packing the range back up, and interacting with clients to be able to proactively punch the bore on my guns. My day starts at something like 4:30 AM and ends usually after midnight the next morning when drive time and everything else is factored in so cleaning my shotguns is the last thing I'm worried about.

My guns work splendidly. But cleaning them requires putting on protective gear just due to the sheer amount of crud I'm scrubbing off of them after that kind of use.

Why do that to yourself if you don't have to.

[Caballoflaco]

The 1301T is an A400 youth shotgun receiver. It takes A400 furniture.


Interesting. Does this include the handguard or just the stock? Also, does this apply to the Comp?

How much mechanically does the 1301 system have in common with previous Beretta autoloading shotgun operating systems? Is it essentially the same? To me that would be a plus in that the operating system can claim the track record of previous Berettas.

You can get wood (butt stock and forend) from beretta that will fit the comp or tactical, but your looking at a $600+ price from beretta ($400 buttstcok $200 handguard) and more expensive if you do even wood from a custom maker. To me that’s not worth the cost.

Yes the 1301 is the same gun internally as the A400 with cheaper furniture.

[SwampDweller]

Shotguns aren't ARs or Glocks.

Shooting any gun through a case of ammunition without lubrication isn't the best way to guarantee reliable function. It is abusive...and acknowledged as such when Todd put it out there in the 2,000 round challenge for pistols.

Every gun runs better when it has been properly lubricated. A 1301 will easily digest the onboard ammunition supply and a full side saddle without issue even if it is bone dry.

Shotguns leave more fouling in the gun than pistols or rifles do just by nature of how they work.

I've gone more than 1,000 shells without cleaning in my 1301 shotguns. I would add lubrication during that period because I wanted the gun to work properly and lubrication aids in reliable function. I've had the gun out in heavy rain where pretty much any lubrication has been washed out of the gun entirely and it's still run through a couple of hundred shells without problem.

So if you insisted on doing it, it's highly likely your 1301 will go through 1,000 shells without cleaning or lubrication. The prize you'd win at the end of that process is a really unpleasant cleaning job that will take a ridiculously long time. And the gun would likely be a bit difficult to disassemble since the piston would want to get stuck to the magazine tube after the gun had cooled down.

I clean my 1301's once a year, generally around the holidays when my shotgun instruction is basically done for the year. I shoot them and clients shoot them all year in classes. I would like to run a bore snake through the guns when I'm done with a day's use at the range, but I'm usually far too busy trying to maintain safety at the end of the class, coordinate cleanup, packing the range back up, and interacting with clients to be able to proactively punch the bore on my guns. My day starts at something like 4:30 AM and ends usually after midnight the next morning when drive time and everything else is factored in so cleaning my shotguns is the last thing I'm worried about.

My guns work splendidly. But cleaning them requires putting on protective gear just due to the sheer amount of crud I'm scrubbing off of them after that kind of use.

Why do that to yourself if you don't have to.

Oh, I don’t mean 1-2k without cleaning or lube. At the very least, lube. I mean 2k with proper cleaning and lubrication.

I’ve been kind of feeling like itd be more frequent to fumble working a pump action in a stressful situation than for a quality autoloading shotgun with good ammo and lube to have a stoppage. Would you say that’s correct?

[Centerfire]

You can get wood (butt stock and forend) from beretta that will fit the comp or tactical, but your looking at a $600+ price from beretta ($400 buttstcok $200 handguard) and more expensive if you do even wood from a custom maker. To me that’s not worth the cost.

Yes the 1301 is the same gun internally as the A400 with cheaper furniture.

Tactical shotguns are the poverty tier of shotguns. $600 for wood furniture is pretty cheap when you start to consider $5k to $10k shotguns. $600 for handmade wood furniture sounds pretty reasonable, especially if it is adjustable.

[Caballoflaco]

Tactical shotguns are the poverty tier of shotguns. $600 for wood furniture is pretty cheap when you start to consider $5k to $10k shotguns. $600 for handmade wood furniture sounds pretty reasonable, especially if it is adjustable.

Yeah, those are just the wood equivalent of the plastic stock without adjustable cheek risers or anything, just the standard shim system. Also, they might be hand finished, but I’d bet dollars to donuts they’re churned out on machines in the beretta factory.

But for anyone interested Beretta has them on sale for $500 right now.

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/gun-accessories/shotguns/stocks-forends/beretta-stock-and-forend-set-a400-xcel-12ga-no-kickoff-/

[TCinVA]

I mean 2k with proper cleaning and lubrication.

Assuming you don't try to feed it ammo it hates...which you kind of have to work at with a 1301...easily. You won't even need to replace the magazine spring in that round count, most likely.



I’ve been kind of feeling like itd be more frequent to fumble working a pump action in a stressful situation than for a quality autoloading shotgun with good ammo and lube to have a stoppage. Would you say that’s correct?

A reliable semi-auto like the 1301 will feed itself reliably...except when the ammo doesn't work right or the user makes a mistake. I see user-induced stoppages on even good semi-autos because people don't know the manual of arms well enough.

A pump gun requires someone to run it properly. But it is simpler to run properly.

I don't see a significant advantage of one over the other for most people. It's about choosing what subset of problems you want to have. Most of the pump gun short stroking problems that exist are there primarily because pump guns come with stocks that are too long and force normal sized people into positions where they can't reliably deliver power on the pump. Once that is resolved and they learn to run the pump properly problems are usually few and far between.

Put it another way, I see less short-stroking of a pump gun in class than I see people who get their fingers in the way of the bolt closing properly when they hit the bolt release on a semi-auto.

A high quality semi-auto like the 1301 is going to digest a larger number of shells without parts breakage than an 870 or Mossberg 500/590. It will be easier to keep the bore clean enough so patterns aren't impacted due to the chrome lining. Etc. So if one is looking to put volumes of shotgun shells downrange the highest quality semi-autos are a better bet. It's not just speed that keeps most serious 3 gun users and clay busters running high quality semi-autos. High volume clay shooters will tend to migrate to break action guns simply because they don't have as many parts and thus don't break as often as repeating shotguns.

A high end Perazzi or Beretta over and under is probably about as reliable as it gets for shotguns. But they're not terribly useful for self defense. (Although you could do worse than a cut down over/under for defensive use. Even the DEA used a Beretta over and under for some missions)
Now if someone's stature makes a pump not work well for them because they are too small, a semi-auto is a significant upgrade in reliability for them. I see those on occasion as well.

[shootist26]

You are correct! It is the 2563. I think it was the left-hand version which I then flipped 180 degrees (the rail extends forward towards the muzzle instead of rearward towards the chamber; this enabled me to mount the Surefire closer to the muzzle to minimize light shadow).When you flipped your 2563, does it rotate once you seat the mag tube cover?

I have the GGG 2565 mount. When it's mounted "correctly" there is a scalloped portion that sits right up against the barrel to prevent rotation. If I flip it like yours, it'll rotate since the scalloped part is facing the wrong way.

[SwampDweller]

Assuming you don't try to feed it ammo it hates...which you kind of have to work at with a 1301...easily. You won't even need to replace the magazine spring in that round count, most likely.



A reliable semi-auto like the 1301 will feed itself reliably...except when the ammo doesn't work right or the user makes a mistake. I see user-induced stoppages on even good semi-autos because people don't know the manual of arms well enough.

A pump gun requires someone to run it properly. But it is simpler to run properly.

I don't see a significant advantage of one over the other for most people. It's about choosing what subset of problems you want to have. Most of the pump gun short stroking problems that exist are there primarily because pump guns come with stocks that are too long and force normal sized people into positions where they can't reliably deliver power on the pump. Once that is resolved and they learn to run the pump properly problems are usually few and far between.

Put it another way, I see less short-stroking of a pump gun in class than I see people who get their fingers in the way of the bolt closing properly when they hit the bolt release on a semi-auto.

A high quality semi-auto like the 1301 is going to digest a larger number of shells without parts breakage than an 870 or Mossberg 500/590. It will be easier to keep the bore clean enough so patterns aren't impacted due to the chrome lining. Etc. So if one is looking to put volumes of shotgun shells downrange the highest quality semi-autos are a better bet. It's not just speed that keeps most serious 3 gun users and clay busters running high quality semi-autos. High volume clay shooters will tend to migrate to break action guns simply because they don't have as many parts and thus don't break as often as repeating shotguns.

A high end Perazzi or Beretta over and under is probably about as reliable as it gets for shotguns. But they're not terribly useful for self defense. (Although you could do worse than a cut down over/under for defensive use. Even the DEA used a Beretta over and under for some missions)
Now if someone's stature makes a pump not work well for them because they are too small, a semi-auto is a significant upgrade in reliability for them. I see those on occasion as well.

Well that does it, I'm going with the 1301. I'm thinking of going with the 21" Comp. Especially since I use a Beretta Silver Mallard for hunting (though I lust after a new A400).

How many rounds would you say one should shoot stoppage-free through their 1301 (or any defensive shotgun) without any stoppages before considering it reliable enough for defensive use? Do you have any recommended loadings for this vetting process?

[TCinVA]

How many rounds would you say one should shoot stoppage-free through their 1301 (or any defensive shotgun) without any stoppages before considering it reliable enough for defensive use? Do you have any recommended loadings for this vetting process?

If it will shoot three or four boxes of normal power birdshot without problem and it will feed whatever buckshot you want to use after that, it's fine.

[CarlK]

When you flipped your 2563, does it rotate once you seat the mag tube cover?

I have the GGG 2565 mount. When it's mounted "correctly" there is a scalloped portion that sits right up against the barrel to prevent rotation. If I flip it like yours, it'll rotate since the scalloped part is facing the wrong way.

It has not rotated through two range sessions. I did use a small amount of blue Loctite on the GG&G aluminum magazine cover and tightened up the clamps. So far, so good.

[Andy in NH]

How did they manifest?

Based on the information you provided above, I believe that it was a failure to feed.

Thank you.

I remember that after realizing that a malfunction had occurred, that I felt into to the ejection port and felt a shell.

I pushed on the shell and it didn't give at all, so I presumed it was a live round.

I wasn't positive of that, so I pulled the bolt back and dumped it, released the bolt, tripped the carrier tab, ran the bolt again, and then finished the drill,

(One of the mistakes I made in planning the trip was getting their ammo package instead of shipping the birdshot, 00B, and slugs that I used. I can't recall having a failure to feed with my birdshot, the 00B they supplied patterned differently [read: worse] than mine [of course], and the slugs they supplied hit a different POI [of course].)

[SwampDweller]

If it will shoot three or four boxes of normal power birdshot without problem and it will feed whatever buckshot you want to use after that, it's fine.

Should I specifically start with normal power birdshot before shooting any buckshot, or does it matter?

Also, silly question, but what classifies as normal power birdshot? Just anything high brass? Or if you have a specific brand and loading in mind, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the information. Was listening to a P&S Modcast on shotguns earlier from a few years ago and I only figured out a few hours ago that you were on there.

Also wondering if I should go with the Comp or the Tactical. I like the Comp’s 21 inch barrel length and more “sporting” appearance, but does the Tactical have any potential advantages in operation?

[RevolverRob]

Should I specifically start with normal power birdshot before shooting any buckshot, or does it matter?

Also, silly question, but what classifies as normal power birdshot? Just anything high brass? Or if you have a specific brand and loading in mind, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the information. Was listening to a P&S Modcast on shotguns earlier from a few years ago and I only figured out a few hours ago that you were on there.

Also wondering if I should go with the Comp or the Tactical. I like the Comp’s 21 inch barrel length and more “sporting” appearance, but does the Tactical have any potential advantages in operation?

Ghost Rings Standard. 1301T uses the aforementioned A400 Youth Receiver, which is smaller than the 1301 Comp receiver. Both guns only chamber 3" shells, but the 1301 Comp receiver is sized around a 3.5" shell (same receiver shared across all A400s, which includes things like duck guns).

[Pnut]

It has not rotated through two range sessions. I did use a small amount of blue Loctite on the GG&G aluminum magazine cover and tightened up the clamps. So far, so good.


If your using the barrel clamp, I’m pretty sure there won’t be any rotation. The loctite might is added security, but might be a little overkill.

[SwampDweller]

Ghost Rings Standard. 1301T uses the aforementioned A400 Youth Receiver, which is smaller than the 1301 Comp receiver. Both guns only chamber 3" shells, but the 1301 Comp receiver is sized around a 3.5" shell (same receiver shared across all A400s, which includes things like duck guns).
Any idea why the Comp uses the receiver sized for the 3.5" and the 1301T uses the Youth? Is the Comp going to be as reliable as the 1301T?

[Centerfire]

Should I specifically start with normal power birdshot before shooting any buckshot, or does it matter?

Also, silly question, but what classifies as normal power birdshot? Just anything high brass? Or if you have a specific brand and loading in mind, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the information. Was listening to a P&S Modcast on shotguns earlier from a few years ago and I only figured out a few hours ago that you were on there.

Also wondering if I should go with the Comp or the Tactical. I like the Comp’s 21 inch barrel length and more “sporting” appearance, but does the Tactical have any potential advantages in operation?

Beretta cheated with the 1301T. It doesn't handle like pretty much any other tactical semi-auto shotgun on the market, including the 1301C. The gun feels compact like SBS and handles fast. The 1301C handles like a full size 21" comp gun.

Buy what works best for you but understand Beretta doesn't do a good just explaining what makes the 1301T special and why it is different that other similarly marketed guns.

[Centerfire]

Any idea why the Comp uses the receiver sized for the 3.5" and the 1301T uses the Youth?

Loading port length.

[TCinVA]

Should I specifically start with normal power birdshot before shooting any buckshot, or does it matter?

Make sure it works with cheap stuff first.



Also, silly question, but what classifies as normal power birdshot? Just anything high brass? Or if you have a specific brand and loading in mind, I'd appreciate it.


Normal meaning "not extra-light birdshot loads meant for break-action shotguns." Normal Winchester 100 round bulk pack birdshot or Federal Top Gun 1200 FPS birdshot is what I use most of the time.




Also wondering if I should go with the Comp or the Tactical. I like the Comp’s 21 inch barrel length and more “sporting” appearance, but does the Tactical have any potential advantages in operation?

Actual sights are vastly superior to beads for any defensive work.

[mmc45414]

Any idea why the Comp uses the receiver sized for the 3.5" and the 1301T uses the Youth?

Loading port length.

Yeah, it is a mostly a game gun thing, I think Lena does a nice job of explaining it:

https://youtu.be/LHbfXlphbu0


Is the Comp going to be as reliable as the 1301T?

I have a comp, and it has been plenty reliable, but better than that I have a 391 Extrema that I ran thousands of rounds through (maybe ten?), many of them 7/8oz reloads, and it just rocked. Wouldn't choke until shot go so expensive that we started loading 3/4oz, I guess everything has limits... :cool:

[SwampDweller]

Make sure it works with cheap stuff first.



Normal meaning "not extra-light birdshot loads meant for break-action shotguns." Normal Winchester 100 round bulk pack birdshot or Federal Top Gun 1200 FPS birdshot is what I use most of the time.




Actual sights are vastly superior to beads for any defensive work.

Alright, I’ll start with some normal cheap stuff. I’ve always thought you were supposed to start out with full power loads like buckshot before trying the cheaper stuff.

[mmc45414]

Alright, I’ll start with some normal cheap stuff. I’ve always thought you were supposed to start out with full power loads like buckshot before trying the cheaper stuff.
I think as long as you have something 1-1/8oz you are all set. Last year a friend brought out his then brand-new Comp Pro out for three gun in January, on a day I am not sure got above 25F, and it bobbled on some 1oz loads, about the only time I have seen a Beretta auto have a problem with anything.

[SwampDweller]

Loading port length.

I've always wondered if having a 3.5" action could reduce reliability with shorter shells in a semi auto. I have absolutely no evidence for this, I've just found myself wondering if that's why my Super X3 used to jam while hunting using 3" shells when it was chambered for 3.5".

[mmc45414]

I've always wondered if having a 3.5" action could reduce reliability with shorter shells in a semi auto.
I think is perfectly logical, but I can tell you that (as an experiment) I once loaded a 3.5" shell behind a 7/8oz light reload in my well broken in 391, and boom-boom no problem. As TCinVA mentioned, can we be sure these things come from italy?... :cool:

[SwampDweller]

TCinVA do you know if there can be any reliability detriment to using 2.75" shells in a 3.5" Magnum-length action (such as in the 1301 Comp), even though it still only accommodates a max of 3" shells? Or is the advantage of the 1301T's shorter receiver simply giving the shotgun a shorter overall length?

[TCinVA]

I've never discussed that specific question with anyone at Beretta.

I've seen more Tactical models than comp models in class, but I've not seen any noticeable difference in reliability. I wouldn't have any problems buying a comp model if that configuration suited my needs better.

[mmc45414]

More later, but I just mocked things up and it is not working, but if it worked it would be phenomenal.
The thing was so low (a good thing) it was interfering on the ridge in the casting that Trijicon leaves. I want this to work bad enough that I whittled away on the optic (if this doesn't work I will use it somewhere else so not worried about returning it), but I got that dealt with and the holes in the mount are not matching with the holes in the optic.
Will get some pictures later. I also want to not be a dick on the www before I give RN visibility to this.

Just got feedback from Rusty, and he identified an error that impacted the two problems I had. He offered to send me an uncoated one this weekend and follow up with a coated one later if I needed it, so I put him in the solid citizen category. I told him I would probably not need this until January since we just shot this past weekend and in December we do an annual Safe Queen match, and everyone brings out their funky stuff just for fun.


Any updates on this? I’m waiting patiently to see how this turns out!
If you want to see the visual mockup I could attach the two screws that do line up?

[Pnut]

No rush, I don’t even own a Comp, only a Tac. I was only curious about the difference between the two mounts.

[lurkmode]

Anyone experiencing their CROM screws walking after a range session? and are you using vibrate, blue, or even red loctite

[Paul Blackburn]

I use blue 243 and have never had a problem with any screw on any firearm.

[lurkmode]

Same experience here. Maybe I should add more 243 and crank on it a tad more.

[TCinVA]

Anyone experiencing their CROM screws walking after a range session? and are you using vibrate, blue, or even red loctite

Adam includes VibraTite VC3 in the package with the CROM.

Expect that anything you fasten to a 12 gauge will work loose as you shoot it if you are not using some form of thread locker. Same goes for slide-mounted optics. It's not a "nice to have", it's a requirement or shit will shoot loose in short order.

Thread locker needs to be applied carefully, including proper degreasing and cleaning of the fastener and the work piece (receiver in this case) to achieve a lasting mount.

I did a little writeup on how LocTite works here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?50712-Proper-use-of-Loctite-amp-general-fastener-information

That was mainly done to give what the actual manufacturer of the product says about proper use of the product in their own training. I just got sick of reading nonsense about LocTite on the web from people who clearly had no idea how it works.

But I typically use Vibra-Tite VC3 on my optics mounts. (Including handguns, rifles, and shotguns) VC3 sets up more like pine tree sap instead of essentially a more crystal-like solid structure of the LocTite. This seems to make it more forgiving of errors in application, at least in my observation. With LocTite if you don't get it completely clean or you interfere with the curing process with vibration the solid structure you're relying on doesn't set up and so the fastener moves. VC3 tends to do a better job if application is imperfect, and it holds up under the shock and vibration of the 12 gauge very well.

My process for application is simple:

- Use a minimum of 90% isopropyl alcohol (99 is best if you can get it) to pour into a shallow tray. Put on some nitrile or rubber gloves.
- Submerge all the fasteners you will use in the alcohol while you set everything else up
- Pull the fasteners out with tweezers or tongs and set it on a blue shop towel to dry in the open air
- Apply VC3 to the first 1/4 or 1/3 of the threads on the fastener. Note that the "first" threads are those that will be going into the work piece, not the threads closest to the head. I will use a small paint brush (that has also been cleaned in the alcohol) to spread the VC3 around the threads, including pushing it into the recesses of the thread.
- Let the VC3 set up for 5-10 minutes. It should be pretty tacky by that point.
- Tighten the fastener to desired torque. If you've used enough, you'll see just a little bit of the VC3 come oozing out around the head of the fastener.

If you do that and let the gun sit for a couple of hours, things should be fine. I've let it sit for as little as an hour and shot the gun with no problems afterwards. But longer time left alone is better. It doesn't need the same cure time as loctite, but it does need some to set up.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Adam includes VibraTite VC3 in the package with the CROM.

Expect that anything you fasten to a 12 gauge will work loose as you shoot it if you are not using some form of thread locker. Same goes for slide-mounted optics. It's not a "nice to have", it's a requirement or shit will shoot loose in short order.

Thread locker needs to be applied carefully, including proper degreasing and cleaning of the fastener and the work piece (receiver in this case) to achieve a lasting mount.

I did a little writeup on how LocTite works here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?50712-Proper-use-of-Loctite-amp-general-fastener-information

That was mainly done to give what the actual manufacturer of the product says about proper use of the product in their own training. I just got sick of reading nonsense about LocTite on the web from people who clearly had no idea how it works.

But I typically use Vibra-Tite VC3 on my optics mounts. (Including handguns, rifles, and shotguns) VC3 sets up more like pine tree sap instead of essentially a more crystal-like solid structure of the LocTite. This seems to make it more forgiving of errors in application, at least in my observation. With LocTite if you don't get it completely clean or you interfere with the curing process with vibration the solid structure you're relying on doesn't set up and so the fastener moves. VC3 tends to do a better job if application is imperfect, and it holds up under the shock and vibration of the 12 gauge very well.

My process for application is simple:

- Use a minimum of 90% isopropyl alcohol (99 is best if you can get it) to pour into a shallow tray. Put on some nitrile or rubber gloves.
- Submerge all the fasteners you will use in the alcohol while you set everything else up
- Pull the fasteners out with tweezers or tongs and set it on a blue shop towel to dry in the open air
- Apply VC3 to the first 1/4 or 1/3 of the threads on the fastener. Note that the "first" threads are those that will be going into the work piece, not the threads closest to the head. I will use a small paint brush (that has also been cleaned in the alcohol) to spread the VC3 around the threads, including pushing it into the recesses of the thread.
- Let the VC3 set up for 5-10 minutes. It should be pretty tacky by that point.
- Tighten the fastener to desired torque. If you've used enough, you'll see just a little bit of the VC3 come oozing out around the head of the fastener.

If you do that and let the gun sit for a couple of hours, things should be fine. I've let it sit for as little as an hour and shot the gun with no problems afterwards. But longer time left alone is better. It doesn't need the same cure time as loctite, but it does need some to set up.

should be a SG sticky IMO.

[lurkmode]

Adam includes VibraTite VC3 in the package with the CROM.

Expect that anything you fasten to a 12 gauge will work loose as you shoot it if you are not using some form of thread locker. Same goes for slide-mounted optics. It's not a "nice to have", it's a requirement or shit will shoot loose in short order.

Thread locker needs to be applied carefully, including proper degreasing and cleaning of the fastener and the work piece (receiver in this case) to achieve a lasting mount.

I did a little writeup on how LocTite works here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?50712-Proper-use-of-Loctite-amp-general-fastener-information

That was mainly done to give what the actual manufacturer of the product says about proper use of the product in their own training. I just got sick of reading nonsense about LocTite on the web from people who clearly had no idea how it works.

But I typically use Vibra-Tite VC3 on my optics mounts. (Including handguns, rifles, and shotguns) VC3 sets up more like pine tree sap instead of essentially a more crystal-like solid structure of the LocTite. This seems to make it more forgiving of errors in application, at least in my observation. With LocTite if you don't get it completely clean or you interfere with the curing process with vibration the solid structure you're relying on doesn't set up and so the fastener moves. VC3 tends to do a better job if application is imperfect, and it holds up under the shock and vibration of the 12 gauge very well.

My process for application is simple:

- Use a minimum of 90% isopropyl alcohol (99 is best if you can get it) to pour into a shallow tray. Put on some nitrile or rubber gloves.
- Submerge all the fasteners you will use in the alcohol while you set everything else up
- Pull the fasteners out with tweezers or tongs and set it on a blue shop towel to dry in the open air
- Apply VC3 to the first 1/4 or 1/3 of the threads on the fastener. Note that the "first" threads are those that will be going into the work piece, not the threads closest to the head. I will use a small paint brush (that has also been cleaned in the alcohol) to spread the VC3 around the threads, including pushing it into the recesses of the thread.
- Let the VC3 set up for 5-10 minutes. It should be pretty tacky by that point.
- Tighten the fastener to desired torque. If you've used enough, you'll see just a little bit of the VC3 come oozing out around the head of the fastener.

If you do that and let the gun sit for a couple of hours, things should be fine. I've let it sit for as little as an hour and shot the gun with no problems afterwards. But longer time left alone is better. It doesn't need the same cure time as loctite, but it does need some to set up.

I appreciate this! Thx. Ill do this tonight and let you know how the next session goes

[Crow Hunter]

Anyone own both a 1301 Comp (21" or 24") and a 1301 Tactical?

If you do, would you do it again or would you only purchase one of them?

Anyone using their 1301 Comp as a HD shotgun?

I have the Comp 24" with extended tubes that I am using as a hunting shotgun, and I like it, but I am not 100% sold on using it in the HD role. (Length/lack of sights)

However, I am also hesitant to spend $1,400 to get a Tactical that I may not ever use.

[Oldherkpilot]

However, I am also hesitant to spend $1,400 to get a Tactical that I may not ever use.

I've been saying the same thing about life insurance for 35 years!😁 Seriously, I am most pleased with my Tactical and contemplating a Comp for sporting/hunting use. I'll be following your thread with fear and trembling.

[mmc45414]

Anyone own both a 1301 Comp (21" or 24") and a 1301 Tactical?

If you do, would you do it again or would you only purchase one of them?

Anyone using their 1301 Comp as a HD shotgun?

I have the Comp 24" with extended tubes that I am using as a hunting shotgun, and I like it, but I am not 100% sold on using it in the HD role. (Length/lack of sights)

However, I am also hesitant to spend $1,400 to get a Tactical that I may not ever use.

I briefly owned both, but my Comp is 21".
I decided that the Tactical wasn't that much shorter, and a friend wanted one, and I was horny to buy something else.
But since then I have shifted my three gun shooting over to open class, and now my 21" gun has a goofy long tube on it so it is not short anymore.
I think maybe I might get another Tactical so that I have a practical defense shotgun.
Or I might get another Comp, but with 24", and move the long tube over there.
Part of this decision matrix revolves around getting the MRO setup on the Comp, maybe then I will decide if maybe I want a Tactical, or a second Comp (configured differently).
Either way, this is something I will troll for, not just run right out and jump on.

[delphidoc]

My wrists are stove up and shooting shotguns with a conventional stock is awkward and a little painful. I like my Benelli SuperNova (my first shotgun) with its pistol-grip stock. I did a Form 1 and turned my Mossberg Shockwave into an SBS and put a Choate Mark 5 conventional stock on it. It's a good stock but my wrist didn't like it so I decided to put an AR-style pistol grip telescoping stock on it. Mesa Tactical makes the only metal stock adapter I could find. I put their kit on the SBS and I love it.

Mesa Tactical also makes an LEO Gen II Telescoping Stock Adapter kit for the 1301. It drops about an inch so the RDS I have mounted on a side saddle with rail works. They don't make a high tube kit for the 1301. https://mesatactical.com/products/leo-gen-ii-telescoping-stock-adapter-for-beretta-1301-12-ga.html

Some pics:





Conventional Beretta stock:
97752




The Mesa Tactical aluminum adapter:
9775397754




I like the tabbed ring that keeps the buffer tube in position while you're tightening the castle nut:
97755




Finished product. LOP is 11 1/4" to 14 1/2" with a LimbSaver recoil pad on the milspec telescoping stock:
97756

[Crow Hunter]

I briefly owned both, but my Comp is 21".
I decided that the Tactical wasn't that much shorter, and a friend wanted one, and I was horny to buy something else.
But since then I have shifted my three gun shooting over to open class, and now my 21" gun has a goofy long tube on it so it is not short anymore.
I think maybe I might get another Tactical so that I have a practical defense shotgun.
Or I might get another Comp, but with 24", and move the long tube over there.
Part of this decision matrix revolves around getting the MRO setup on the Comp, maybe then I will decide if maybe I want a Tactical, or a second Comp (configured differently).
Either way, this is something I will troll for, not just run right out and jump on.

Did you have any trouble going between them with the different sights, different receiver length and tighter loading port on the tactical?

I have been waffling among adding a light to my current 24", getting a 21" and mounting an Aimpoint and a light, or getting a Tactical.

Can't make up my mind and there are no guns local to play with. I will have to order if I decide to get another.

[mmc45414]

Did you have any trouble going between them with the different sights, different receiver length and tighter loading port on the tactical?

Part of the reason I sold the Tactical is because I was doing all of the shooting (monthly three gun) with the Comp, so I didn't shoot the Tactical enough to render a valid opinion.

[SwampDweller]

Part of the reason I sold the Tactical is because I was doing all of the shooting (monthly three gun) with the Comp, so I didn't shoot the Tactical enough to render a valid opinion.

Did you notice any reliability difference between the Tactical and the Comp? I ask due to the difference in the receiver length.

[Crow Hunter]

Did you notice any reliability difference between the Tactical and the Comp? I ask due to the difference in the receiver length.

I haven't run a ton of shells in my Comp yet but i haven't noticed any feeding issues with dummy or live rounds. I have been doing a lot of loading/unloading and dry firing to get myself "trained" on the slightly different manual of arms from the Benelli safety/action release and the MUCH nicer LOP. I don't want to miss a bird fumbling with the controls and I have nearly 20 yrs of Benelli to reformat. (Especially the safety)😁

It also took me a little while to get the stock drop/cast dialed in. It now patterns perfectly for me 50/50 if I hit my mount.

I suspect there are a lot of Comp models being run in 3-gun, and if there were an issue, it would have a bad reputation in those circles which I don't think is the case.

3.5" guns do have a reputation for reliability issues with 2.75" shells but those are hunting guns with 3.5" chambers designed (sprung) to handle those heavier payload shells. The Comp still has a 3" chamber so it shouldn't have the same issues as a typical 3.5" gun since it isn't sprung to shoot Roman candles like the A400.😅

I have a buddy with an A400 and he doesn't have any issues with the lighter loads that he has told me about.

If that is what you are asking.

[SwampDweller]

I haven't run a ton of shells in my Comp yet but i haven't noticed any feeding issues with dummy or live rounds. I have been doing a lot of loading/unloading and dry firing to get myself "trained" on the slightly different manual of arms from the Benelli safety/action release and the MUCH nicer LOP. I don't want to miss a bird fumbling with the controls and I have nearly 20 yrs of Benelli to reformat. (Especially the safety)😁

It also took me a little while to get the stock drop/cast dialed in. It now patterns perfectly for me 50/50 if I hit my mount.

I suspect there are a lot of Comp models being run in 3-gun, and if there were an issue, it would have a bad reputation in those circles which I don't think is the case.

3.5" guns do have a reputation for reliability issues with 2.75" shells but those are hunting guns with 3.5" chambers designed (sprung) to handle those heavier payload shells. The Comp still has a 3" chamber so it shouldn't have the same issues as a typical 3.5" gun since it isn't sprung to shoot Roman candles like the A400.😅

I have a buddy with an A400 and he doesn't have any issues with the lighter loads that he has told me about.

If that is what you are asking.

Thank you for the informative and detailed answer. Good point about the Comp's good reputation in 3-gun speaking to it's reliability.

Never thought about the 3.5" issue from that point, but it makes sense and would support my hypothesis that sometimes the shorter/weaker loads seem to occasionally bobble on a 3.5" chambered gun.

I'm really leaning towards the 21" 1301 Comp, it seems like it could fill the HD/travel role, sport role, and could be pressed into certain types of bird hunting if needed. And it doesn't look scary, just looks like a hunting/clay shooting shotgun.

[mmc45414]

Did you notice any reliability difference between the Tactical and the Comp? I ask due to the difference in the receiver length.

3.5" guns do have a reputation for reliability issues with 2.75" shells but those are hunting guns with 3.5" chambers designed (sprung) to handle those heavier payload shells.

I have probably shot my 1301C only about 500 rounds, I use it once a month since I got it for three gun (25-50 rounds) and I did the Tom Givens shotgun class with it. Now that I think about it, maybe I have closer to 1k through it, I remember I shot it for skeet a few times after I got it, and that is 100 targets each time. No matter, it is still new, but to the best of my recollection it has never bobbled.

OTOH, I have a 391-Xtrema2 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beretta_Xtrema_2) that I got shortly after they released (2004 according to the Wiki) and I shot it a metric buttload for quite a while. Mostly skeet, but some sporting clays, and a little bit of hunting. It digested a ton of the 7/8oz #9 reloads we were shooting skeet with. For a while I also used it for three gun, I put a Nordic tube on it and ground out the loading port (I am not worried about resale, that will be my wife's problem with this one). Based on my experience with my Xtreama I have total confidence in any Beretta auto, the four of them have pretty much been flawless (also briefly had a 20g A400), other than an occasional bobble with one of my scuzzy hull reloads. I say get the one you want, run at least a flat of 1-1/8oz loads through it and then consider it broken in and GTG.

ETA:

I'm really leaning towards the 21" 1301 Comp, it seems like it could fill the HD/travel role, sport role, and could be pressed into certain types of bird hunting if needed. And it doesn't look scary, just looks like a hunting/clay shooting shotgun.
If I was going to pick one of them, the 21" Comp sure is a cool one, for all of those reasons.

[EzGoingKev]

So a friend of mine was trying to find a 1301 Tactical local to him. Everyone was sold out. He did say places had the Comp model and it was cheaper.

I told him I would look into it but I believe he could buy the Comp and have a gun w/ a 24" barrel that would be good for hunting and skeet. He could pick up an 18" barrel and swap it out. Install a +2 extension and he has the 7 rounds. Put a CROM mount on it and he has a red dot and a rear sight.

Is this advice good to go?

[civil1977]

The 18” barrel from the Tactical will not fit the Comp because the receivers are different. The Comp works with the 21” and 24” barrels.

[mmc45414]

Is this advice good to go?
No, as mentioned the barrel is not compatible and the reciever is drilled differently also.

[EzGoingKev]

I know I had read about people wanting to do it because the larger receiver would make the gun easier to load via the ejection port. I do not remember anyone pointing out that the 18" barrel does not fit.

Thanks for setting me straight.

[mmc45414]

I know I had read about people wanting to do it because the larger receiver would make the gun easier to load via the ejection port. I do not remember anyone pointing out that the 18" barrel does not fit.

Pretty sure the barrel hood is what will be wrong:

98003

And I think the loading port on the bottom is where all the emphasis is, more than the ejection port. There is a whole cottage industry that hogs them out, like this example:

98004

On some of the guns the serial number is even relocated to allow for more material removal:

98005

[EzGoingKev]

I looked around last night and learned the barrel hood is different. They moved the location of the gas piston too.

[TCB]

An 18” T barrel that fits the C guns would be…the awesome.

[Centerfire]

Barrels are $600 each.

[Crow Hunter]

I found another advantage to the Comp style hold down lifter beyond not trapping your thumb.

With the standard lifter and the Gen 2 bolt release, if you pull up on the bolt release the shell stop will allow a shell to come out of the magazine. If you do not have the lifter pushed down, it will usually release 2 shells past the shell stop onto the lifter at the same time which causes a mess. Same failure mode as pushing the back end of the Gen 1 bolt release.

The Comp style hold down lifter prevents this from happening. The shell will be released but it is stopped by the end of the lifter, so it only allows a single shell to be released and then you can push up on the lifter to take the shell out.

I know it would probably be rare that something would cause this failure mode but I think it is an added benefit of the hold down lifter.

[Pnut]

Good observation CrowHunter… But I leads me to a question related the Gen 2 unloading.

Does anyone use the bolt release button to unload the gun? Maybe it because I’ve owned my Benelli M1 for over 20 years, but I find it easier to reach into the loading port and hit the shell release tab with my finger!?!?!

[TCinVA]

Good observation CrowHunter… But I leads me to a question related the Gen 2 unloading.

Does anyone use the bolt release button to unload the gun? Maybe it because I’ve owned my Benelli M1 for over 20 years, but I find it easier to reach into the loading port and hit the shell release tab with my finger!?!?!

I reach into the receiver to push the shell stop out of the way and take shells out of the magazine one at a time. That's what I teach as well.

[shootist26]

98850

Here's my latest attempt at making a light work and avoiding having to buy a different forend.

GGG-2563 QD mount/pic rail unit, with an Arisaka scout light on an Arisaka offset scout mount with a Surefire ST-07 tape switch. Head is a Malkoff E1HT.

The good: it holds the light much closer in line with the shotgun, less of a snag issue, and more comfortable being able to move the switch back towards the rear so I don't have to hyper extend my arms trying to activate the light.

The bad: I like keeping the switch on the right hand side (activated with my left hand middle finger) because its in the exact same position as the tape switch on my Surefire 618 forend on my 870. The default ST-07 tape switch cable is too long, so I have no choice but to coil the cable around like you see here. Of course, the cable length is also too short for me to slide under the barrel and install the switch on the left hand side of the forend either.


Side note: My Aridus CROM screws backed out after around 250 rounds. Was installed with the supplied threadlocker (the orange stuff) and screws were well prepped before hand. I'm going to degrease the screws and try blue loctite next time.

[TCinVA]

Side note: My Aridus CROM screws backed out after around 250 rounds. Was installed with the supplied threadlocker (the orange stuff) and screws were well prepped before hand. I'm going to degrease the screws and try blue loctite next time.

I'll be interested to see how that works out. I've generally seen more failures with LocTite than VC3, but VC3 can be somewhat temperamental in how much you apply on fine threads.

[Clusterfrack]

should be a SG sticky IMO.

Done.
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?50712-Proper-use-of-Loctite-amp-general-fastener-information&p=1431366#post1431366

[trajiiic]

98850

Side note: My Aridus CROM screws backed out after around 250 rounds. Was installed with the supplied threadlocker (the orange stuff) and screws were well prepped before hand. I'm going to degrease the screws and try blue loctite next time.

This was also my experience. I followed the Aridus instructions to the letter and the forward most screw began backing out (thanks witness marks!). I cleaned and applied loctite blue and haven't had an issue since.

I also used loctite blue on these parts:
GG&G rail screws
GG&G stock adapter bolt
everything mounted to my GG&G rail

I've got 700+ shells on most of these added parts and nothing's shaked loose yet. The Streamlight Polytac light and the PA MD-20 red dot, both "budget" options, have also held up to the abuse.

[308fiend]

howdy
just curious if anyone knows if the comp pro forend fits on the tactical model ?

i am intrigued by the rubberized comp pro forend.

thanks

[Rack]

howdy
just curious if anyone knows if the comp pro forend fits on the tactical model ?

i am intrigued by the rubberized comp pro forend.

thanks

Interesting thought. I would be curious, too.

[LHS]

howdy
just curious if anyone knows if the comp pro forend fits on the tactical model ?

i am intrigued by the rubberized comp pro forend.

thanks

To the best of my knowledge, yes, they're compatible.

[WobblyPossum]

I finally broke down and purchased the Nordic Components +2 extension for my Gen 1 1301 Tactical. What should I do for the magazine spring? Will the OEM spring from the five round tube function for a 7 round tube or do I take the spring that came with the extension and cut it down until it’s appropriately long?

[Cory]

I finally broke down and purchased the Nordic Components +2 extension for my Gen 1 1301 Tactical. What should I do for the magazine spring? Will the OEM spring from the five round tube function for a 7 round tube or do I take the spring that came with the extension and cut it down until it’s appropriately long?

I used the srock spring with no cutting or anything. I've had zero issues so far, but don't load to full capacity often.

[WobblyPossum]

I used the srock spring with no cutting or anything. I've had zero issues so far, but don't load to full capacity often.

Is that the stock Beretta spring or the Nordic spring?

[Cory]

Is that the stock Beretta spring or the Nordic spring?

Stock Beretta spring.

[Pnut]

I’ve been told that the factory Beretta springs are the same for their 5 and 7 round guns.

[trajiiic]

GG&G +2 recommends reusing the factory 5 round spring and I have done so. My shotgun magazine stays fully loaded 95% of the year with the OEM Beretta spring. After 2+ years of use the magazine has shrunk by a few inches but continues to function without issue.

You won't have any trouble with the OEM spring.