Beretta 1301 Tactical

[Crow Hunter]

Beretta Comp vs Comp Pro 24".

Beretta's website is terrible.

I am interested in getting a 1301 24" bbl. I want the lifter hold down. Which I assume keeps the lifter up away from your thumb while loading like the Benelli Nova. I can't tell if either comes with it or if it is an add-on. Does anyone know or can point me in the direction of a resource that has more details about the two?

I would also love to know what the drop at the comb and heel are as delivered but I can't find that anywhere either.

I want a short LOP semiautomatic shotgun that I can add a limbsaver pad on and has the Nova style lifter and is reliable and a decently soft shooter with interchangeable chokes and a conventional rib and bead "sight" that shoots 60/40 to 50/50 patterns and doesn't punch me in the cheek.

I think the 1301 comp is it but no one around here has one and I will have to order it buy online and i would hate to do that and find out it isn't what I am looking for.

[Crow Hunter]

I'm not TC, but yes. The problem is, Beretta isn't talking when asked what the other parts are.

We need somebody to detail strip old and new side by side and attempt to identify the parts that are different.

While doing research on the 1301 Comp, I found that Beretta uses this company for the the Comp series extensions in the EU anyway:

https://estore.beretta.com/en-eu/magazine-extension-set-for-beretta-1301-comp-pro/

https://christiansencomponents.com/product/toni-system-beretta-1301-comp-pro-extension-kit/

Not sure if that is the same thing they use on the Tactical models or not.

[Caballoflaco]

Beretta Comp vs Comp Pro 24".

Beretta's website is terrible.

I am interested in getting a 1301 24" bbl. I want the lifter hold down. Which I assume keeps the lifter up away from your thumb while loading like the Benelli Nova. I can't tell if either comes with it or if it is an add-on. Does anyone know or can point me in the direction of a resource that has more details about the two?

I would also love to know what the drop at the comb and heel are as delivered but I can't find that anywhere either.

I want a short LOP semiautomatic shotgun that I can add a limbsaver pad on and has the Nova style lifter and is reliable and a decently soft shooter with interchangeable chokes and a conventional rib and bead "sight" that shoots 60/40 to 50/50 patterns and doesn't punch me in the cheek.

I think the 1301 comp is it but no one around here has one and I will have to order it buy online and i would hate to do that and find out it isn't what I am looking for.

On the comp and comp pro they come with two different spacers that allow you to adjust drop from 50 to 65mm in 5mm increments and let you set left or right hand cast. I haven’t found if this is drop at comb or heel. I’ll try to pull some measurements off my gun when I get a chance

You can see the labeled spacers here

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/gun-accessories/shotguns/kits-parts/beretta-front-spacers-and-stock-plates-set-for-al391-1301-a350-a400-a300-outlander/

My 21” 1301 comp, doesn’t have the comp pro style lifter.

[Crow Hunter]

On the comp and comp pro they come with two different spacers that allow you to adjust drop from 50 to 65mm in 5mm increments and let you set left or right hand cast. I haven’t found if this is drop at comb or heel. I’ll try to pull some measurements off my gun when I get a chance

You can see the labeled spacers here

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/gun-accessories/shotguns/kits-parts/beretta-front-spacers-and-stock-plates-set-for-al391-1301-a350-a400-a300-outlander/

My 21” 1301 comp, doesn’t have the comp pro style lifter.

I managed to find an American Rifleman article that gave the dims.

LOP 13"
Drop at comb 1.25"
Drop at heel 1.625"

I do appreciate you offering to measure.

Do you use yours for 3 gun or for other purposes?

I am interested in using it as a hunting gun primarily. I like some of the A400 features but none of the A400 offerings appeal to me and have "features" that I don't want. The 1301 seems to be just what I want without the stuff I don't.

[CJK]

I managed to find an American Rifleman article that gave the dims.

LOP 13"
Drop at comb 1.25"
Drop at heel 1.625"

I do appreciate you offering to measure.

Do you use yours for 3 gun or for other purposes?

I am interested in using it as a hunting gun primarily. I like some of the A400 features but none of the A400 offerings appeal to me and have "features" that I don't want. The 1301 seems to be just what I want without the stuff I don't.What about the A300 Ultima? I'm looking for a gun for sporting clays with the same features as the 1301, just not the price.

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk

[Caballoflaco]

I managed to find an American Rifleman article that gave the dims.

LOP 13"
Drop at comb 1.25"
Drop at heel 1.625"

I do appreciate you offering to measure.

Do you use yours for 3 gun or for other purposes?

I am interested in using it as a hunting gun primarily. I like some of the A400 features but none of the A400 offerings appeal to me and have "features" that I don't want. The 1301 seems to be just what I want without the stuff I don't.

I haven’t shot three gun with it yet, but I have taken it to the skeet range and on a quail hunt. I was by far the limiting factor on the skeet range, it broke them when I did my part.

On the quail hunt the light weight was awesome for carrying around all day and I didn’t feel too limited by the short length as a wing shooting newbie I felt pretty good about my ratio of birds hit to misses including one real nice fast crosser at between 30 and 40 yards. I do plan on adding a mag extension (for shotgun other shotgun games) with a custom plug to make it legal for hunting just to add a little more weight and smooth my swing out a bit.

I also need to get one of the bolt release shrouds to avoid accidentally locking up the gun. And I think I am going to play with drilling a more centered hole in one of the shins and making a flat stock spaced to try to get more neutral cast.

[mmc45414]

Beretta Comp vs Comp Pro 24".
I want the lifter hold down.
I want a short LOP semiautomatic shotgun that I can add a limbsaver pad on and has the Nova style lifter and is reliable and a decently soft shooter with interchangeable chokes and a conventional rib and bead "sight" that shoots 60/40 to 50/50 patterns and doesn't punch me in the cheek.

My 21” 1301 comp, doesn’t have the comp pro style lifter.
I was also seeking some of these answers.
bruceride just bought a Pro, and it does have the lifter hold down.
But it also has the Kick-Off, and is pretty short, but not quite as short as my 391 XTREMA, or my 1301T, and I want to mimic those two, so if I get the 21" Comp I am considering, I will either skip the Pro, or try and trade stocks with somebody who did the Magpul.

One manual that shows the stock changes is here (page 31):
https://www.beretta.com/assets/12/29/1301_Tactical_USA_OK.pdf

There are four drop settings (50, 55, 60, 65) so I would think you could get one to be what you want. If the gun doens't come with both plates they replacement kit is cheap:
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/e01630

I also want to change the pad on the 1301T, I want less sticky and will sacrifice some cushion.

[trajiiic]

Not big news, but Freedom Fighter Tactical now has Beretta OEM parts on their website and they also have some aftermarket parts. Most are Meso parts but they do have a new in-house FFT branded enhanced power magazine spring for sale.

[Crow Hunter]

What about the A300 Ultima? I'm looking for a gun for sporting clays with the same features as the 1301, just not the price.

Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk

I am wanting the A400 gas system and rotating bolt. I think the A300 series uses the older design gas system and bolt but i am open to be proven wrong. Not a lot of Beretta options locally. My area is very much Browning leaning. Everyone has them there is one in my area that carries Beretta and only 5 or 6 where they have a whole wall of Brownings.

[Crow Hunter]

I was also seeking some of these answers.
bruceride just bought a Pro, and it does have the lifter hold down.
But it also has the Kick-Off, and is pretty short, but not quite as short as my 391 XTREMA, or my 1301T, and I want to mimic those two, so if I get the 21" Comp I am considering, I will either skip the Pro, or try and trade stocks with somebody who did the Magpul.

One manual that shows the stock changes is here (page 31):
https://www.beretta.com/assets/12/29/1301_Tactical_USA_OK.pdf

There are four drop settings (50, 55, 60, 65) so I would think you could get one to be what you want. If the gun doens't come with both plates they replacement kit is cheap:
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/e01630

I also want to change the pad on the 1301T, I want less sticky and will sacrifice some cushion.

From my research the Pro hold down is a drop in part but it is only offered from the factory on the Pro and is hard to source in the U.S. but very common in the UK of all places. I figure that I will get the standard Comp and try it and if it catches my finger bad, like my old Benelli used to, I will try and get one to add. There is a UK web store that will ship to the US.

I don't really want the Pro because of the Kickoff and the blue receiver. I could always paint it and sell the Kickoff but I might not need the hold down lifter and it is always easier to buy than sell. 😁

[HCM]

From my research the Pro hold down is a drop in part but it is only offered from the factory on the Pro and is hard to source in the U.S. but very common in the UK of all places. I figure that I will get the standard Comp and try it and if it catches my finger bad, like my old Benelli used to, I will try and get one to add. There is a UK web store that will ship to the US.

I don't really want the Pro because of the Kickoff and the blue receiver. I could always paint it and sell the Kickoff but I might not need the hold down lifter and it is always easier to buy than sell. 😁

No surprise you found that in the UK.

With handguns and centerfire semi autos banned in the UK practical shotgun is very much a thing there.


https://youtu.be/DLAG5eSce_U


https://youtu.be/0hkgQbcUjwI


https://youtu.be/OXi3Hk6n0vs

They also do practical rifle with rimfires known as "mini rifle"


https://youtu.be/7zqko4NThmM

[mmc45414]

From my research the Pro hold down is a drop in part but it is only offered from the factory on the Pro and is hard to source in the U.S. but very common in the UK of all places. I figure that I will get the standard Comp and try it and if it catches my finger bad, like my old Benelli used to, I will try and get one to add. There is a UK web store that will ship to the US.

I also wonder if the lifter could be welded up or something. I know TTI would weld the little cutout on the front of the Beneli, and that could be done on the Beretta, and the lifter hold up feature looks to just be a bump that catches on the Carrier Catch Plunger:

81935

Though this picture also shows another Pro feature, a relocated serial number to allow for further grinding of the loading port.


I don't really want the Pro because of the Kickoff and the blue receiver.
You sound like me, though I could probably tolerate the blue receiver... :cool:

[Centerfire]

Not big news, but Freedom Fighter Tactical now has Beretta OEM parts on their website and they also have some aftermarket parts. Most are Meso parts but they do have a new in-house FFT branded enhanced power magazine spring for sale.

There is a Beretta factory part I want and only FFT has it in stock currently. With that said, there site makes it seem like doing business with them probably isn't in my best interest; they're about double the price of MGW (after shipping) and don't accept returns. I called them and their response over the phone is commensurate with their site.

tldr: I'll wait for MGW to get the part back in stock, they've been very good to work with for old FN SPR parts.

[Crow Hunter]

I also wonder if the lifter could be welded up or something. I know TTI would weld the little cutout on the front of the Beneli, and that could be done on the Beretta, and the lifter hold up feature looks to just be a bump that catches on the Carrier Catch Plunger:

81935

Though this picture also shows another Pro feature, a relocated serial number to allow for further grinding of the loading port.


You sound like me, though I could probably tolerate the blue receiver... :cool:

I don't mind the blue receiver but the crows and the ducks would laugh at me all camouflaged up with the gaudy blue receiver swinging around.😅

I believe that the hold down is just a different carrier and is an easy swap from all the research that I have been doing on mostly british sites. Interesting that we speak the same language but it can be a bugger 😁 to figure out what the hell they are talking about at times. I thought my local Southern dialect was different but some of theirs I really have to read or watch multiple times.😉

I am going to load up my trading fodder and hit a bunch of the local gun shops tomorrow and see if they might just have one somewhere if not I will at least handle a A400 and maybe just break down and order one.

[mmc45414]

I believe that the hold down is just a different carrier and is an easy swap from all the research that I have been doing on mostly british sites.
Yes, easy swap, not so easy to snag the part.


Interesting that we speak the same language but it can be a bugger 😁 to figure out what the hell they are talking about at times. I thought my local Southern dialect was different but some of theirs I really have to read or watch multiple times.😉
For a while a British guy was my boss, from time to time things needed to be translated from British to English :cool:

[TCinVA]

Speaking of the UK's practical shotgun scene, an outfit in the UK called Master Class Custom Guns (https://www.facebook.com/masterclasscustomguns) at one point sold a single piece titanium charging handle that actually stays in the bolt exactly like the factory charging handle. Other options on the market are either two piece units (not really an upgrade over factory, IMO) or don't have the key-like protrusion on the end that keeps the handle locked into the bolt carrier group until deliberately removed.

81964

I've had one in my main 1301 for a good chunk of 2021 and it's worked splendidly.

Their website seems to be FUBAR, but you can probably contact them using the contact info on their social media to see if they can ship you one. I think the cost was something like $70 US plus a bit of shipping. Expensive, but if you've ever had heartburn about a two piece charging handle it seems like a good solution.

[TCinVA]

I'm not TC, but yes. The problem is, Beretta isn't talking when asked what the other parts are.

We need somebody to detail strip old and new side by side and attempt to identify the parts that are different.

My guns are essentially now in the same spec that Langdon Tactical is shipping. So I'm not worried about 922R.

[mmc45414]

Expensive, but if you've ever had heartburn about a two piece charging handle it seems like a good solution.
What concern would you have about the Briley being two piece?
I know the plastic factory part can get pushed in and bind up, but I do not see how the Briley could/would do that.

But that titanium piece is pretty sexy... :cool:

[TCinVA]

What concern would you have about the Briley being two piece?

I don't really have a concern about the factory charging handle. But some people do, and for those people a two piece setup where the part that interacts with the hand can potentially slide down what I'll crudely refer to as the "stalk" portion of it seems to be contra-indicated. And as best I can tell all the two pieces have that theoretical possibility, if one is concerned about that in the first place.

[Centerfire]

Noveske flushcup in an SGA.

https://i.imgur.com/6JfyAhV.jpg

[vaspence]

25 or so yards running. Federal 2 3/4 8 pellet FC. Shot twice, first shot dropped 5 pellets into the lung, about a 5 inch circle around the knife in the pic. Second shot hit rear hind quarter. She went about 40 yards and piled up. Holosun 507c.

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[Risto]

FYI: Crom RMR in stock at aridus.

[Oceanbob]

Noveske flushcup in an SGA.

https://i.imgur.com/6JfyAhV.jpg

That Noveske FLUSH looks good. I just installed 2 Magpul (type 1) thru bolted to each other on both sides.
I have my sling up front LEFT side and RIGHT side on the rear. The 1301 hangs nice for me…

https://i.ibb.co/D4Y9V8q/94-CB616-B-1087-4-E9-D-AADC-08058-C408-EEC.jpg (https://ibb.co/2qSvnsb)

[Centerfire]

That Noveske FLUSH looks good. I just installed 2 Magpul (type 1) thru bolted to each other on both sides.
I have my sling up front LEFT side and RIGHT side on the rear. The 1301 hangs nice for me…

https://i.ibb.co/D4Y9V8q/94-CB616-B-1087-4-E9-D-AADC-08058-C408-EEC.jpg (https://ibb.co/2qSvnsb)

The Magpul flush cups cost the same as the Noveske and I wanted the sling swivel in the same place as my rifles. My friend is a shotgun instructor and he thinks I'm not going to like it. You both may be right, and I admit that I don't know either, but I do know that I don't like Magpul's flushcups or location. Also if you put velcro on the stock for ESSTAC cards it covers the OEM locations. I mainly posted the picture so that others can see flushcups can be added in different locations on the SGA, not advocating for or against.

[Centerfire]

Aridus sent me email notifications both style RMR CROM's are in stock.

[Oceanbob]

Aridus sent me email notifications both style RMR CROM's are in stock.

Yeah. Finally got the Rob Haught Mod one.

CROMs are BitCoin these days….😎

[md8232]

I just got the Instagram notice 20 minutes ago. There are still some left.
I snagged the RMR Crom to replace my Aimpoint.

[Kosuke Kutsunugi]

happy new year.

please tell me about 1301 barrel.
The other day, after shooting clay pigeons, I disassembled it to clean my gun.
Then, a piece of metal came off from the gas valve side of the barrel. Does anyone know this part?
I searched a lot about this part, but it wasn't on the parts list.

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[23JAZ]

https://youtu.be/F7Hsi6eywDw

[Crow Hunter]

happy new year.

please tell me about 1301 barrel.
The other day, after shooting clay pigeons, I disassembled it to clean my gun.
Then, a piece of metal came off from the gas valve side of the barrel. Does anyone know this part?
I searched a lot about this part, but it wasn't on the parts list.

82226
82227
82228

It looks like it is part of the Gas Valve Spring Nut, item number 54. However, I don't have one to confirm that.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/beretta-1301/parts.html

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C5E324

My assumption is that it is not supposed to be separate but I don't actually own one, yet.

[LHS]

25 or so yards running. Federal 2 3/4 8 pellet FC. Shot twice, first shot dropped 5 pellets into the lung, about a 5 inch circle around the knife in the pic. Second shot hit rear hind quarter. She went about 40 yards and piled up. Holosun 507c.

82161


82162

It warms my heart to see that Randall actually being used for its intended purpose.

Bravo.

[Crow Hunter]

I noticed the 1301 comp comes with a gen 1 bolt release rather than the gen 2 release. Is it best practice to replace this with the gen 2 part or just add the spacer to prevent it from operating?

Or is it 6 of one 1/2 dozen of another?

Bonus question, anyone ever use the Beretta +2" choke tubes? Any benefits over the standard extended or flush tubes?

[vaspence]

I noticed the 1301 comp comes with a gen 1 bolt release rather than the gen 2 release. Is it best practice to replace this with the gen 2 part or just add the spacer to prevent it from operating?

Or is it 6 of one 1/2 dozen of another?

Bonus question, anyone ever use the Beretta +2" choke tubes? Any benefits over the standard extended or flush tubes?

I noticed this on 2 new 1301 21” Comps a few weeks ago in a local gun shop. At the time I thought maybe they were new old stock. My 24” Comp has the 2nd gen release. I also have a Gen 1 with the Aridus shroud as I believe replacing with a Gen 2 release is not a simple plug n play. The shroud works great and I don’t really notice it.

[Crow Hunter]

I noticed this on 2 new 1301 21” Comps a few weeks ago in a local gun shop. At the time I thought maybe they were new old stock. My 24” Comp has the 2nd gen release. I also have a Gen 1 with the Aridus shroud as I believe replacing with a Gen 2 release is not a simple plug n play. The shroud works great and I don’t really notice it.

Do you have the Comp Pro? I think they have the new release. Why they didn't just change them all.....

Does either prevent it from ever happening? That is what I want. My new 24" comp just bit me HARD trying to clear a double feed with dummy rounds. 😣

I was trying to see how bad it was for myself because yes I am that dumb.😒

I thought i was going to need time drill my fingernail and it's my damn trigger finger too.

I want whichever one prevents it from tilting backwards at all. That is really annoying and I definitely could see it happening to me as my SOP when moving to a different stand is to unload the chamber but leave the magazine loaded until I get to my next blind. I could definitely see myself accidentally hitting the bolt release and tying it up.

[vaspence]

Just a regular 24” Comp purchased in April 2020


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[Crow Hunter]

Just a regular 24” Comp purchased in April 2020


82317

82316

I got mine today.

Mine must have been New Old Stock from Europtic.:mad: I guessing should have asked for a the latest serial number they had. That might explain why mine came with the plastic case and all the spacers/shims that I had read online that some people weren't getting. (Although mine is missing the mid bead and I had a plug installed and one in the case as a bonus.)

I didn't know they could be bought with the newer release. I did find out it is a drop in part so if it prevents a the problem I can fix it for pretty cheap. I am going to have to order choke tubes anyway.

Does it make it impossible to release double shells onto the carrier?

[destruya]

If anyone with a non-RH CROM wants the option to convert it, the RH aperture is in stock @ Aridus: https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/rob-haught-mod-crom-aperture/

As is the stock adapter: https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/asa-1301-stock-adapter/

Both RMR CROMs (Std & RH): https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/beretta-1301-tactical-trijicon-rmr-crom/

Black Handguard: https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/1301hga-blk/

FDE Handguard: https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/1301hga-fde/

Aimpoint CROMs are OOS.

[BigKev]

Now for the elusive QDC shell carrier...

[Crow Hunter]

Any sources for Beretta parts other than Midwest? I want to change my bolt release to Gen 2 design. I have the replacement bolt release on order but the latch cover C5H273 is out of stock. I tried searching for other vendors and Brownells (using the link) but haven't found any.

[destruya]

Now for the elusive QDC shell carrier...

Cardez R Beturer :p

Unless you've got FDE. Then don't put any adhesive on the Cerakote. >.>

[BigKev]

Cardez R Beturer :p

Unless you've got FDE. Then don't put any adhesive on the Cerakote. >.>

Nope. She's black. Here she is almost complete. May take the T2 off and put a Holosun or RMR on. Not sure yet. Will know when the CROM gets here I guess. This is my first tactical shotgun. I'm just trying different things to see what works best for my skill level and my changing eyes. Lol.

[HeavyDuty]

Still trying to definitively determine what Micro types will cowitness with the CROM - I tried a Romeo5, and it was too tall. Will the Holosun HS503CU?

Trying to avoid wasting money.

[marcin]

Still trying to definitively determine what Micro types will cowitness with the CROM - I tried a Romeo5, and it was too tall. Will the Holosun HS503CU?

Trying to avoid wasting money.

I think you'll need to go much lower -- something like an Aimpoint T1 or T2, or a 507/RMR, depending on the CROM mount type.

[Crow Hunter]

Any sources for Beretta parts other than Midwest? I want to change my bolt release to Gen 2 design. I have the replacement bolt release on order but the latch cover C5H273 is out of stock. I tried searching for other vendors and Brownells (using the link) but haven't found any.

I just wanted to give a shout out to Magload in the UK.

https://magload.co.uk/

I was interested in getting one of the Beretta Hold Down lifters for the Comp Pro from them since they are nearly impossible to source in the US. I asked if they had access to any other Beretta parts, specifically the C5H273 cover mentioned above. He said, sure, he could get it and asked if I needed him to get any other parts while he was at it. He said send him a list and he would get it and ship it with the Lifter. I really only needed the cover.

He said to just put what I wanted with the part numbers in the special order instructions when I ordered the lifter and he would send a link to pay for anything extra. Within just a few minutes of ordering he sent me the link for the cover and it was done.

I am not sure if it is easier to get the parts in the UK/Europe since they don't have to come by boat or if demand is higher here.

Awesome guy to work with just use their contact button and he can get lots of Beretta parts that aren't readily available in the US.

[HeavyDuty]

I think you'll need to go much lower -- something like a 509/Aimpoint P1, or a 507/RMR, depending on the CROM mount type.

Do even T-1/2 allow use of the iron sights on a CROM? I may need to swap mine for a RMR version, or just give up.

[Centerfire]

I just wanted to give a shout out to Magload in the UK.

https://magload.co.uk/

I was interested in getting one of the Beretta Hold Down lifters for the Comp Pro from them since they are nearly impossible to source in the US. I asked if they had access to any other Beretta parts, specifically the C5H273 cover mentioned above. He said, sure, he could get it and asked if I needed him to get any other parts while he was at it. He said send him a list and he would get it and ship it with the Lifter. I really only needed the cover.

He said to just put what I wanted with the part numbers in the special order instructions when I ordered the lifter and he would send a link to pay for anything extra. Within just a few minutes of ordering he sent me the link for the cover and it was done.

I am not sure if it is easier to get the parts in the UK/Europe since they don't have to come by boat or if demand is higher here.

Awesome guy to work with just use their contact button and he can get lots of Beretta parts that aren't readily available in the US.

I ordered a lifter from them in December. They shipped it quickly but it has been stuck in shipping hell since the 22nd. It isn't Magload's issue, I'm not sure if it is USPS or the British postal service.

[Crow Hunter]

I ordered a lifter from them in December. They shipped it quickly but it has been stuck in shipping hell since the 22nd. It isn't Magload's issue, I'm not sure if it is USPS or the British postal service.

Probably a combination leaning toward the British post. I think they are getting hit hard with omicron. Hopefully yours gets to you soon.

[Ed L]

Do even T-1/2 allow use of the iron sights on a CROM? I may need to swap mine for a RMR version, or just give up.

Mine does the CROM with the Aimpoint S6 with the 6 MOA dot. It is mounted on the CROM in the bottom photo. Or you could use the entire Aimpoint as a giant ghost ring for the front sight.

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[HeavyDuty]

Mine does the CROM with the Aimpoint S6 with the 6 MOA dot. It is mounted on the CROM in the bottom photo. Or you could use the entire Aimpoint as a giant ghost ring for the front sight.

82481

I’ll have to put the S1 on my possibles list for future deals. I wasn’t even aware they did a shotgun specific version. Thanks!

[HeavyDuty]

I’m sorry to keep beating the CROM RDS drum, but I’m really trying to avoid buying more than once. I’d like an Aimpoint Micro, but I’m having a hard time justifying that much of an investment on a secondary weapon that is used in the house.

Today I pulled the Romeo5 out again and actually mounted it on my 1301T using the CROM. Yup, just as I thought - the rear sight is below the RDS window, there is no way to use the CROM rear sight. Fail.

PA has the Holosun HS503CU on sale right now (via $75 in their bongo bucks which I can use to pick up another 1x prism, this time with a 9mm reticle for the Scorpion - but I digress.) Enough people have mentioned the 503s work on the CROM in this thread, and I assume they allow use of the CROM irons through the RDS.

If this turns out like the Romeo5 and doesn’t allow use of the irons through the RDS, I’m done. I’ll go back to the stock Beretta rear and give up on mounting a dot. I didn’t expect this to be such a pain in the ass to configure with something other than an Aimpoint.

[WobblyPossum]

I have a Primary Arms Microdot mounted on my CROM. It was one of the first popular Aimpoint Micro clones I can remember. No issues with cowitness. My 1301 hasn’t killed it yet but I don’t shoot it much. It’s only had about 300 rounds through it since the dot was mounted. Mostly light birdshot with a smaller amount of Buck and random 3” magnum waterfowl loads someone gave me.

[HeavyDuty]

I have a Primary Arms Microdot mounted on my CROM. It was one of the first popular Aimpoint Micro clones I can remember. No issues with cowitness. My 1301 hasn’t killed it yet but I don’t shoot it much. It’s only had about 300 rounds through it since the dot was mounted. Mostly light birdshot with a smaller amount of Buck and random 3” magnum waterfowl loads someone gave me.

I actually bought one of the PA dots this morning, but realized I could have a Holosun with circle dot for only $65 more after the deal. I was able to change my order. I have older PA dots on my .22s and have been very happy with them.

[mmc45414]

I’ll have to put the S1 on my possibles list for future deals. I wasn’t even aware they did a shotgun specific version. Thanks!
I think GJM has one on a Benelli. I think that might be some cool kit...
ETA: not needing a $150 mount might help offset paying $750 for the Aimpoint...


I’m really trying to avoid buying more than once.
Today I pulled the Romeo5 out again and actually mounted it on my 1301T using the CROM.
PA has the Holosun HS503CU on sale right now
have mentioned the 503s work on the CROM in this thread, and I assume they allow use of the CROM irons through the RDS.
I actually bought one of the PA dots this morning, but realized I could have a Holosun with circle dot for only $65 more after the deal.
I have older PA dots on my .22s and have been very happy with them.
My concern with trying some of these less expensive alternatives is if they don't work out they are like rifle seeds, and things I don't need grow underneath them.
This reminds me, I have a couple of scopes I need to post for sale...

[SeriousStudent]

I have an S1 on a project shotgun I did.

Left-handed Remington 870 with a vent rib cut down to 18.5 inches, and a velcro side saddle. Very fast and accurate for a right-hander. It's surprisingly easy to adapt to, after years of shooting right-handed shotguns.

I did swap it out for a right-handed trigger assembly.

[md8232]

I'd like to buy a Red Dot for my Beretta 1301, and want the largest Window available.
Currently using an Aimpoint, and purchased the RMR Crom.

Once I know which has the largest window, I'll focus on the largest Dot.

If the Aimpoint footprint offers something comparable, I'd like to know about it also.

[Lon]

If you’ve got the RMR CROM, the SRO is the largest window.

[md8232]

If you’ve got the RMR CROM, the SRO is the largest window.

Thanks Lon. Time to start saving up some $$$

[Ed L]

I’ll have to put the S1 on my possibles list for future deals. I wasn’t even aware they did a shotgun specific version. Thanks!

I was wrong. You want an H2 with the 6 MOA dot, which is what I have. The S1 has a base that will only screw onto shotgun ribs and will not mount on a CROM mount or the Beretta's regular mount.

[Brian T]

I have an S1 on a project shotgun I did.

Left-handed Remington 870 with a vent rib cut down to 18.5 inches, and a velcro side saddle. Very fast and accurate for a right-hander. It's surprisingly easy to adapt to, after years of shooting right-handed shotguns.

I did swap it out for a right-handed trigger assembly.

So now you righties see why we lefties like right hand eject 870s...! I have a LH 11-87 if you want to deal. As a lefty I cannot warm up to LH eject/load shotguns. I end up buying RH eject/load shotguns and either drop LH safety trigger groups in or I modify the existing RH trigger group.


If you still have that LH 870 trigger group, I have an extra RH 870 trigger group. Is yours just LH safety or LH carrier too?

[HeavyDuty]

I give up. Disgusted isn’t a strong enough word for this.

I tried three different Micro format dots on my CROM - a Romeo5, Romeo4T and now a new Holosun 503CU I bought just for the purpose. None of them allow cowitness with the CROM rear and factory front iron sights, they are all too high. Going back through the thread and looking at zoomed in pictures, the only Micro format dots I am seeing that seem to even come close to cowitness are the Aimpoints.

I’ve wasted enough time and money on this. What is the use of a CROM unless you can cowitness? Back to the factory irons, maybe I’ll spend the money on an Aimpoint at some point - but only after I’ve seen with my own eyes that it will cowitness with the CROM.

Maybe this will help others from wasting their money chasing cowitness.

[RancidSumo]

I give up. Disgusted isn’t a strong enough word for this.

I tried three different Micro format dots on my CROM - a Romeo5, Romeo4T and now a new Holosun 503CU I bought just for the purpose. None of them allow cowitness with the CROM rear and factory front iron sights, they are all too high. Going back through the thread and looking at zoomed in pictures, the only Micro format dots I am seeing that seem to even come close to cowitness are the Aimpoints.

I’ve wasted enough time and money on this. What is the use of a CROM unless you can cowitness? Back to the factory irons, maybe I’ll spend the money on an Aimpoint at some point - but only after I’ve seen with my own eyes that it will cowitness with the CROM.

Maybe this will help others from wasting their money chasing cowitness.

FWIW, I had a Vortex dot on mine and it worked fine. Now have an Aimpoint and it also works fine. Did you zero? I had to crank the rear up quite a bit on my CROM.

[HeavyDuty]

FWIW, I had a Vortex dot on mine and it worked fine. Now have an Aimpoint and it also works fine.

By fine, you mean with the gun shouldered you can see both front and rear iron sights through the tube?

To your edit - no, how high are we talking? None of the photos I just saw after about 50 or so pages of looking showed the rear cranked up very high. If this is simply an adjustment issue, I’m going to be even more pissed - at myself.

[RancidSumo]

By fine, you mean with the gun shouldered you can see both front and rear iron sights through the tube?

Yes. I have irons and dot zeroed and can shoot with the irons only/dot turned off.

[RancidSumo]

By fine, you mean with the gun shouldered you can see both front and rear iron sights through the tube?

To your edit - no, how high are we talking? None of the photos I just saw after about 50 or so pages of looking showed the rear cranked up very high. If this is simply an adjustment issue, I’m going to be even more pissed - at myself.

82684

[HeavyDuty]

82684

This was user error on my part - if I crank mine up that high I do get cowitness.

I’m such a moron.

[BobM]

I have an S1 on a project shotgun I did.

Left-handed Remington 870 with a vent rib cut down to 18.5 inches, and a velcro side saddle. Very fast and accurate for a right-hander. It's surprisingly easy to adapt to, after years of shooting right-handed shotguns.

I did swap it out for a right-handed trigger assembly.

Did the rib have to be modified to accept the S-1? An Aimpoint vendor told me last fall that the S-1 wouldn’t fit Remington ribs.

[Centerfire]

Speaking of the UK's practical shotgun scene, an outfit in the UK called Master Class Custom Guns (https://www.facebook.com/masterclasscustomguns) at one point sold a single piece titanium charging handle that actually stays in the bolt exactly like the factory charging handle. Other options on the market are either two piece units (not really an upgrade over factory, IMO) or don't have the key-like protrusion on the end that keeps the handle locked into the bolt carrier group until deliberately removed.

81964

I've had one in my main 1301 for a good chunk of 2021 and it's worked splendidly.

Their website seems to be FUBAR, but you can probably contact them using the contact info on their social media to see if they can ship you one. I think the cost was something like $70 US plus a bit of shipping. Expensive, but if you've ever had heartburn about a two piece charging handle it seems like a good solution.

Masterclass fixed their site and the bolt handles are in stock.

[SeriousStudent]

So now you righties see why we lefties like right hand eject 870s...! I have a LH 11-87 if you want to deal. As a lefty I cannot warm up to LH eject/load shotguns. I end up buying RH eject/load shotguns and either drop LH safety trigger groups in or I modify the existing RH trigger group.


If you still have that LH 870 trigger group, I have an extra RH 870 trigger group. Is yours just LH safety or LH carrier too?


It was a "factory stock" shotgun, so it's an entire LH trigger plate assembly.

[SeriousStudent]

Did the rib have to be modified to accept the S-1? An Aimpoint vendor told me last fall that the S-1 wouldn’t fit Remington ribs.

Always grind the cheap part. :cool: I worked over the tab on the Aimpoint mount.

We can wait until Wayne Dobbs gets back from SHOT, and has recovered from that miserable experience. But I think they do make a kit of adapter tab thingies now.

https://www.aimpoint.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Product_PDFs/Instruction_Guides/14866-1-web-Aimpoint-Micro-S-1-Base-Plate-Selection-Guide.pdf

https://www.aimpoint.com/products/mounting-solutions/micro-s-1-base-plates-for-ventilated-thin-shotgun-rib-set-a-b-01-02

https://www.aimpoint.com/products/mounting-solutions/micro-s-1-base-plates-for-ventilated-thick-shotgun-rib-set-c-d-03-04

I'd call Strohman's and see if they can help you. They are awesome people.

[Kosuke Kutsunugi]

82972
82973
82974

I incorporated the gas valve in my Beretta barrel as it arrived.

Note: Beretta does not recommend disassembling the gas valve.

Here is the procedure.

1. The old nut can be removed by using a pipe wrench.

2. Be careful when the nut leaves the screw, as the spring will bounce around vigorously.

3. Clean and polish the gunpowder residue stuck to the barrel and gas valve with solvent.

4. With the bolt and gas piston removed, reassemble the barrel and body.

5. Place the gas valve in the original order and use the mag extension to twist the spring halfway in.

Apply the spilling compressor to the nut side of the spring and the exit side of the gas piston.

7. Shrink the spring, tighten the nut all the way and loosen the spring compressor, and the replacement is complete.

[mmc45414]

Please do. I had someone ask me on my YouTube video if removing the spring retaining cap on the new OEM 7 shell tube would impact reliability. It hasn't on my 5 shot tube.
Sorry I haven't managed to do this yet, but I will report that I continue to consistently be able to get seven shells in the thing, but it is a tight fit.
What is a link to the video you mention?

[ScotchMan]

Sorry if this was covered in the previous 508 pages, but what are people recommending for a light mount for the new Gen 2 1301s that come with a mag extension from the factory? My usual go-tos, Mesa and Aridus, don't have one.

Also who do we like for side saddles? The Aridus one appears to attach with adhesive? I have always used Mesa for my Remingtons and Mossbergs but they don't seem to have one for the 1301 either. Or is adhesive the only way because there is only the one screw on the left side?

[destruya]

Seems Mesa Tactical is keen on stealing some CROM business: https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2022/01/19/shot-2022-new-mesa-tactical-rmr-sureshell-carrier/

A Sureshell RMR mount with a co-witnessed RMR mount for the 1301 will be “priority #1” once SHOT is over, according to the staff at the booth.

[Cory]

Sorry if this was covered in the previous 508 pages, but what are people recommending for a light mount for the new Gen 2 1301s that come with a mag extension from the factory? My usual go-tos, Mesa and Aridus, don't have one.

Also who do we like for side saddles? The Aridus one appears to attach with adhesive? I have always used Mesa for my Remingtons and Mossbergs but they don't seem to have one for the 1301 either. Or is adhesive the only way because there is only the one screw on the left side?

It seems alot of folks like the velcro cards with an adhesive side on the gun. I went with the Aridus QDC, because I don't see trading out the card as super important for my use. The Aridus is adhesive also. I seriously think the receiver would bend before the adhesive let go. It's incredibly strong.

If there are other non-adhesive options I haven't seen them. If you're okay with permenant, the adhesive seems pretty solid.

[TCinVA]

Seems Mesa Tactical is keen on stealing some CROM business: https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2022/01/19/shot-2022-new-mesa-tactical-rmr-sureshell-carrier/

A Sureshell RMR mount with a co-witnessed RMR mount for the 1301 will be “priority #1” once SHOT is over, according to the staff at the booth.

Ugh.

It's a sign of the 1301's popularity that such a move is being made.

But it's still a sub-optimal option.

[BobM]

Ugh.



But it's still a sub-optimal option.

I agree. I have their similar product on an 1187. It was a quick and easy way to get a Micro on it to see if I liked the idea of a red dot on a shotgun (which I do). However, I eventually didn’t care for the added weight, and the optic is higher than I want.

[ScotchMan]

Thanks for the replies. I think I've made my peace with the Aridus shell carrier. And it seems like the only way to get a light on there is with the Aridus handguard? That part is unfortunate because while I like it, its just pricy, and if I could find a cheap pic rail solution that would be one place I could save money.

But yeah, it seems like just buy the entire Aridus catalog and recreate the Langdon version is the answer to getting the 1301 up to speed.

[TCinVA]

I've added a thread stickied in the forum to help guide folks with the basic modification questions about lights and optics. You can find that here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?51302-Beretta-1301-Modification-amp-Reference

There are other options for a light mount apart from the Aridus handguard. It all depends on how you want to achieve the goal and your budget.

[HeavyDuty]

I've added a thread stickied in the forum to help guide folks with the basic modification questions about lights and optics. You can find that here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?51302-Beretta-1301-Modification-amp-Reference

There are other options for a light mount apart from the Aridus handguard. It all depends on how you want to achieve the goal and your budget.

Thanks - that thread was needed, this one is like trying to drink from a firehose.

[ScotchMan]

Yessssssssssss, thank you!

[Default.mp3]

Scalarworks is coming out with their SYNC RDS mounts for the 1301T for RMRs and ACROs, guess they changed their mind about supporting it: https://www.facebook.com/scalarworks/videos/939196086967250/

[HeavyDuty]

Scalarworks is coming out with their SYNC RDS mounts for the 1301T for RMRs and ACROs, guess they changed their mind about supporting it: https://www.facebook.com/scalarworks/videos/939196086967250/

I’m actually a fan of the original rear sight - I’ll be watching for this.

[Centerfire]

I’m actually a fan of the original rear sight - I’ll be watching for this.

Me too, I don't care for the CROM very much.

[Brian T]

Where are you folks going for 1301 spare parts?

I need one, preferably two, 1301 front sight shields (aka protective wing assembly). Midwest carries the part, but they are OOS. All calls/voicemails at BUSA go unanswered/unreturned, as do all emails.

[TCinVA]

Where are you folks going for 1301 spare parts?

I need one, preferably two, 1301 front sight shields (aka protective wing assembly). Midwest carries the part, but they are OOS. All calls/voicemails at BUSA go unanswered/unreturned, as do all emails.

The Benelli M4 front sight guard is the same...but it's out of stock everywhere I normally buy parts.

[HCM]

Scalarworks is coming out with their SYNC RDS mounts for the 1301T for RMRs and ACROs, guess they changed their mind about supporting it: https://www.facebook.com/scalarworks/videos/939196086967250/


I’m actually a fan of the original rear sight - I’ll be watching for this.


Me too, I don't care for the CROM very much.

This looks like an optics mount for people who don’t really understand optics.

If you’re going to do a true co-witness and take up most of the optic window with the iron why bother with an optic ?

[TCinVA]

This looks like an optics mount for people who don’t really understand optics.

If you’re going to do a Truco witness and take up most of the optic window with the iron why bother with an optic ?

Indeed.

The rear sight as it comes on the gun is lovely. But it would be pretty obnoxious if it's sitting right behind the optic. The beauty of the Aridus Haught Mod setup is that it leaves your field of view through the optic remarkably uncluttered. Dealing with grub screws is kind of a pain in the ass, but once you get it zeroed it's nice.

[Centerfire]

Indeed.

The rear sight as it comes on the gun is lovely. But it would be pretty obnoxious if it's sitting right behind the optic. The beauty of the Aridus Haught Mod setup is that it leaves your field of view through the optic remarkably uncluttered. Dealing with grub screws is kind of a pain in the ass, but once you get it zeroed it's nice.

That's my main complaint, the CROM sight is a pretty crude design (aperture not withstanding). I've actually considered just going back to the pic rail and leaving the sights off all together. Milling off half of the factory aperture wouldn't be hard either, they put two dots on it to tell you where the middle is.

[HeavyDuty]

Different strokes, people.

[HCM]

Different strokes, people.

No. Some things are just inefficient.

Been down the “true co-witness” road with carbines with large numbers of shooters. At best it’s a distraction that hampers performance. At worst you have people trying to use the red dot and the irons at the same time.

If you are running an optic, the optic is your primary sighting system.

The iron sights on the 1301 are a great choice if you want to use irons as your primary sights

But the LPA rear does not play well with micro-sized red dots. It blocks too much of the optic.

[GearFondler]

No. Some things are just inefficient.

Been down the “true co-witness” road with carbines with large numbers of shooters. At best it’s a distraction that hampers performance. At worst you have people trying to use the red dot and the irons at the same time.

If you are running an optic, the optic is your primary sighting system.

The iron sights on the 1301 are a great choice if you want to use irons as your primary sights

But the LPA rear does not play well with micro-sized red dots. It blocks too much of the optic.I think it's designed to be a back-up red dot in case the irons fail. :D

[Centerfire]

No. Some things are just inefficient.

Been down the “true co-witness” road with carbines with large numbers of shooters. At best it’s a distraction that hampers performance. At worst you have people trying to use the red dot and the irons at the same time.

If you are running an optic, the optic is your primary sighting system.

The iron sights on the 1301 are a great choice if you want to use irons as your primary sights

But the LPA rear does not play well with micro-sized red dots. It blocks too much of the optic.

That's fair and I've had the same experience with carbines. The Scalarworks would allow for the complete removal of the rear sight without necessitating the taller Picatinny rail. I'm not sure I'll bother though. I'm just a bit disappointed with the design of the Aridus sight. In a perfect work Beretta would have pinned the front sight/rail and Aridus would have used detents. I guess we can't have it all.

[HeavyDuty]

It’s not absolute from what I can tell - it looks about lower 1/4.

83211

[HCM]

It’s not absolute from what I can tell - it looks about lower 1/4.

83211

I don’t believe that video still is from directly behind the sights.

That POV makes the front side look lower / better than it is, though in fairness, it also makes the issue with the rear sight (which is the main problem) look worse than actually it is. The rear sight in that still is taking up 3/4 of the window, which I don’t think is accurate, But even half the window on an optic a small as an RMR is a problem.

If I had to run the Scalar works for what ever reason I would remove the LPA rear and simply use the optic body as the back up rear.

[Centerfire]

I don’t believe that video still is from directly behind the sights.

That POV makes the front side look lower / better than it is, though in fairness, it also makes the issue with the rear sight (which is the main problem) look worse than actually it is. The rear sight in that still is taking up 3/4 of the window, which I don’t think is accurate, But even half the window on an optic a small as an RMR is a problem.

If I had to run the Scalar works for what ever reason I would remove the LPA rear and simply use the optic body as the back up rear.

If your complaint is the aperture, LPA makes different apertures. You could cut the aperture in half if you like the Haut style.

http://www.lpasights.com/en/products/bar11rd4/

[HCM]

That's fair and I've had the same experience with carbines. The Scalarworks would allow for the complete removal of the rear sight without necessitating the taller Picatinny rail. I'm not sure I'll bother though. I'm just a bit disappointed with the design of the Aridus sight. In a perfect work Beretta would have pinned the front sight/rail and Aridus would have used detents. I guess we can't have it all.

If I had to use the scalar works mount I would definitely remove the rear sight And simply use the optic body as my back up rear if something happened to the dot.

Adjustments on the rear iron site of the Aridus are a PITA but Remember it’s only a secondary or back up system not some thing you would be adjusting often. I believe this is what drove the minimalist design of the CROM. It’s a trade off for increased performance with the optic. Even on the CROM, I prefer the “Rob Haught” mod to get the top of the ring out of the FOV.

[mmc45414]

You could cut the aperture in half if you like the Haut style.
I am thinking about doing that even without the optic.

[tlong17]

In stock

https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/beretta-1301-tactical-aimpoint-micro-crom/?attribute_aperture=Rob+Haught+Mod

[breakingtime91]

If I had to use the scalar works mount I would definitely remove the rear sight And simply use the optic body as my back up rear if something happened to the dot.

Adjustments on the rear iron site of the Aridus are a PITA but Remember it’s only a secondary or back up system not some thing you would be adjusting often. I believe this is what drove the minimalist design of the CROM. It’s a trade off for increased performance with the optic. Even on the CROM, I prefer the “Rob Haught” mod to get the top of the ring out of the FOV.

I cowitnessed my rear sit to my dot after zeroing the dot to save ammo and confirmed with one round of flight control at 20 yards. Good enough. Make sure to use something on the screws of the rear sight. they like to walk free.

[trajiiic]

I have a Romeo 5 installed on my factory pic rail. I just ordered the CROM RH for Aimpoint models, because they are in stock. There's been discussions that the Romeo 5 wont work. I'll clear this up when my CROM arrives.

In the meantime, here's some evidence showing it will work.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10223307709178744&set=p.10223307709178744&type=3&theater

[HeavyDuty]

I have a Romeo 5 installed on my factory pic rail. I just ordered the CROM RH for Aimpoint models, because they are in stock. There's been discussions that the Romeo 5 wont work. I'll clear this up when my CROM arrives.

In the meantime, here's some evidence showing it will work.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10223307709178744&set=p.10223307709178744&type=3&theater

You’ll notice he doesn’t show the sight picture. To me, that shows a CROM with the full aperture can probably work with the Romeo5. I had a Romeo5 on a RH version, and then replaced it with a 503 - the rear aperture ears are not visible in the glass of either unless you crank up the rear so far that the grub screws won’t retain the aperture stud. A full aperture would look like a half circle segment in the glass.

I’m planning on finding a full aperture to test this before I give up and either use a different mount or replace the RDS with a T1.

[trajiiic]

You’ll notice he doesn’t show the sight picture. To me, that shows a CROM with the full aperture can probably work with the Romeo5. I had a Romeo5 on a RH version, and then replaced it with a 503 - the rear aperture ears are not visible in the glass of either unless you crank up the rear so far that the grub screws won’t retain the aperture stud. A full aperture would look like a half circle segment in the glass.

I’m planning on finding a full aperture to test this before I give up and either use a different mount or replace the RDS with a T1.


Did you post what your sight pictures looked like with the Romeo 5 on the CROM RH? Also, What's the exact model 503 you went for? I've found, like you, that this is kind of a shit show trying to figure which aimpoint clones will "work".

The 503s (HS503R among others) seem to require modification to the sight to fit, or mcguivering a wrench, but reports show the will cowitness (RH or standard is unclear).

The early gen PA red dot (MD-RB-AD ) and the Vortex red dot (CF-RD2) appear to mount without issue from what I've read (RH or standard is unclear). The downside is the "only" 50K battery life, lack of advanced reticles, and no shake awake. These seem to be almost identical to the T1 micro.

The Romeo 5 absolutely sits higher than an aimpoint. I know this from previous testing with DD fixed sights and DD Aimpoint mount; The R5 is 1/3 cowitness on the DD mount which is a full cowitness mount w/o the spacer plate.



I guess we'll see. This may need to be its own thread. I have the Romeo 5 so I'm going to see if I can manage to not spend more $ on another aimpoint clone.

[HeavyDuty]

Did you post what your sight pictures looked like with the Romeo 5 on the CROM RH? Also, What's the exact model 503 you went for? I've found, like you, that this is kind of a shit show trying to figure which aimpoint clones will "work".

The 503s (HS503R among others) seem to require modification to the sight to fit, or mcguivering a wrench, but reports show the will cowitness (RH or standard is unclear).

The early gen PA red dot (MD-RB-AD ) and the Vortex red dot (CF-RD2) appear to mount without issue from what I've read (RH or standard is unclear). The downside is the "only" 50K battery life, lack of advanced reticles, and no shake awake. These seem to be almost identical to the T1 micro.

The Romeo 5 absolutely sits higher than an aimpoint. I know this from previous testing with DD fixed sights and DD Aimpoint mount; The R5 is 1/3 cowitness on the DD mount which is a full cowitness mount w/o the spacer plate.



I guess we'll see. This may need to be its own thread. I have the Romeo 5 so I'm going to see if I can manage to not spend more $ on another aimpoint clone.

I think a separate thread is a good idea, we can link back to it from here. Let me see if I can rig up a way of photographing the sight picture with the current HS503CU, I’ll use that to kick off the new thread.

[HeavyDuty]

Thread about us poors and CROM: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?51397-Micro-format-RDS-that-work-with-Aridus-CROM&p=1314024#post1314024

[Kennylifit]

I’m sure many of you saw the IG post which Aridus threw up with someone with an FDE 1301 tactical with the cerakote partially ripped off after the side saddle down came off after range use. I just picked up a Side saddle for my od green 1301. Anyone else have issues with installing (or it falling off) the qdc on their cerakoted gun?

Thanks

[Oceanbob]

I’m sure many of you saw the IG post which Aridus threw up with someone with an FDE 1301 tactical with the cerakote partially ripped off after the side saddle down came off after range use. I just picked up a Side saddle for my od green 1301. Anyone else have issues with installing (or it falling off) the qdc on their cerakoted gun?

Thanks

I saw that on Facebook but it was a sticky back Velcro layer. I have an Aridus unit but hesitant to install it because of damage in the future.
I am not a 3 gun guy or a 4 day shotgun course person so I think I’ll just attach 4 or 5 round Esstac cards to my Magpul plastic SGA stock.
Bob

[frank]

Aimpoint CROMs in stock : https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/beretta-1301-tactical-aimpoint-micro-crom/

Also at Brownells as of this minute.

[i am No One]

Do you think Aridus will manufacture a longer male to male fastener to compensate the missing stock buffer as an optional/additional product?



So for context:

I bought my first 1301 in 2016 about April. I added the Aridus adapter about 1.5 years later. In that time the gun has been through all of my classes (usually used as a loaner) and some other classes I've taken from others. That is in addition to my own personal practice which, until the ammo crunch, was fairly constant. Just in my own practice time I've fired just over 4,000 shells through this gun...not counting what it's seen as a loaner.

I talked with knowledgeable folks about the lack of the factory buffer when the Aridus adapter was gaining in popularity and I was assured it wouldn't be a cause for concern.

My use has born that out:

784667846778468

The receiver itself has finish wear, as you can see, but no real damage. Keep in mind that the buffer back there is not the primary device for decelerating the bolt....the recoil spring and the action of cocking the hammer are what accomplish that. The gun isn't beating itself to death without the buffer present.

The bolt shows a little finish wear on the rear face, but as you can see it's no more than is visible from the rails that run inside the recesses cut into the receiver.

I have no worries anything is going to break.

While I'm at it, somewhere earlier front sights got mentioned so here's a close up of the Blitzkrieg front sight for the Benelli M4 installed on my 1301:

78469

While it's possible Blitzkrieg has changed the dimensions of their sight since I bought mine some years ago, as you can see it's not sitting way above the protective ears on my gun. I can tell you with absolute certainty that the front sight tower used on the Benelli M4 is the exact same LPA front sight (https://www.lpasights.com/en/prod/shotguns/)used on the 1301 Tactical...and that comes from having compared specimens in person and having actually asked that at the factory when I was getting my armorer certification.

[GearFondler]

Do you think Aridus will manufacture a longer male to male fastener to compensate the missing stock buffer as an optional/additional product?Doubtful... He can't keep his current inventory in stock right now and nothing yet has shown that its absence is anything to worry about.

[Standard]

Has anyone tried the aridus/Magpul parts and returned back to a stock setup? I have the full aridus complement to my 1301 tactical, and while it's nice, I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost to me. Unfortunately I cross threaded my long stock bolt, so I'm probably stuck for a while. 😐

[HeavyDuty]

Has anyone tried the aridus/Magpul parts and returned back to a stock setup? I have the full aridus complement to my 1301 tactical, and while it's nice, I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost to me. Unfortunately I cross threaded my long stock bolt, so I'm probably stuck for a while. 😐

I really like the Magpul buttstock, but feel no need or desire to replace the Beretta handguard.

[Standard]

I really like the Magpul buttstock, but feel no need or desire to replace the Beretta handguard.

I only did both for 922(r) reasons.

[ScotchMan]

I really like the Magpul buttstock, but feel no need or desire to replace the Beretta handguard.

I love the Beretta handguard. It has much more positive traction than the Magpul. However the Magpul looks a lot more tactical, and let's you put lights and hand stops and such on.

For me, not worth the expense. If Magpul released a factory offering for $35, I might try it. For now, I enjoy the streamlined, elegant look of the factory handguard, and assume if a lawyer is ever waving my gun in front of a jury, I will also be happy with the choice.

[Clusterfrack]

I really like the Magpul buttstock, but feel no need or desire to replace the Beretta handguard.


I love the Beretta handguard. It has much more positive traction than the Magpul. However the Magpul looks a lot more tactical, and let's you put lights and hand stops and such on.

I tried the Magpul handguard, and did not like it. The only advantage was MLok slots, and those were flimsy plastic. I like the OEM handguard, just wish it had solid attachments for lights and QD slots.

[NPV]

Has anyone tried the aridus/Magpul parts and returned back to a stock setup? I have the full aridus complement to my 1301 tactical, and while it's nice, I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost to me. Unfortunately I cross threaded my long stock bolt, so I'm probably stuck for a while. 😐

Count me as another “returned to stock handguard” user, the SGA with all the spacers however is the cats tits.

[Default.mp3]

If y'all want metal M-LOK, the the expense of weight: https://www.briley.com/p-64587-briley-3gun-m-lok-handguard-beretta-1301-comp-and-tactical-a400-xtreme.aspx

[trajiiic]

If y'all want metal M-LOK, the the expense of weight: https://www.briley.com/p-64587-briley-3gun-m-lok-handguard-beretta-1301-comp-and-tactical-a400-xtreme.aspx


I want it.... but I don't $350 want it. I guess that's why the only one's we've seen were the Briley HGs for the Comp model. I don't think anyone has splurged on the new one built for the Tactical 1301.

If it was $100 cheaper, I'd have gone for one. That puts it equal to the price of the BCM KMR/MCMR on an AR.

I still look at it once a month and sit here wishing.

[Centerfire]

I like the factory Beretta handguard but I don't like the light and sling mounting options with it. Fortunately the Aridus/Magpul handguard is cheap; you can stipple it and if you screw it up they're pretty inexpensive.

[beenalongtime]

I only did both for 922(r) reasons.

Wondered if one got the new model with the already extended mag, about swapping the buttstock?

[pm07]

I want it.... but I don't $350 want it. I guess that's why the only one's we've seen were the Briley HGs for the Comp model. I don't think anyone has splurged on the new one built for the Tactical 1301.

If it was $100 cheaper, I'd have gone for one. That puts it equal to the price of the BCM KMR/MCMR on an AR.

I still look at it once a month and sit here wishing.

There are several of us with the Briley on here I believe. It was less that $350 and a great investment to me for my shotgun needs.

[trajiiic]

There are several of us with the Briley on here I believe. It was less that $350 and a great investment to me for my shotgun needs.

Is yours the one for the 1301 Tactical that came out last year? I've seen members with the original model made for the slightly different gas system of the comp model.

I still want one, but I just bought ammo instead.

[kwb377]

I just mounted a CROM w/ Haught aperture...

I think it's a combination of aged eyes and years of my brain using standard ghost-rings on shotguns and AR's...I'm not really sold on the half-ring. I looked at the XS website to order a full aperture, but they list several options.

Anyone happen to know which one Aridus uses? I'll also shoot AI a message and see what they say.

https://xssights.com/ghost-ring-apertures/

[HeavyDuty]

I just mounted a CROM w/ Haught aperture...

I think it's a combination of aged eyes and years of my brain using standard ghost-rings on shotguns and AR's...I'm not really sold on the half-ring. I looked at the XS website to order a full aperture, but they list several options.

Anyone happen to know which one Aridus uses? I'll also shoot AI a message and see what they say.

https://xssights.com/ghost-ring-apertures/

Actually, yes - I measured mine and it’s the standard length 23-2003A-230-4. I ordered one of those and also the longer 23-2003B-230-4. But, Aridus should have the full aperture on the website by now - he put it up a day after I went to XS.

I feel the same way, I struggle with the Haught mod one even with no RDS mounted.

[pm07]

Is yours the one for the 1301 Tactical that came out last year? I've seen members with the original model made for the slightly different gas system of the comp model.

I still want one, but I just bought ammo instead.

Mine is a couple of years old, Gen 1, I stocked up on 12 gauge over the years. ;)

[kwb377]

Actually, yes - I measured mine and it’s the standard length 23-2003A-230-4. I ordered one of those and also the longer 23-2003B-230-4. But, Aridus should have the full aperture on the website by now - he put it up a day after I went to XS.

I feel the same way, I struggle with the Haught mod one even with no RDS mounted.Awesome...thanks!

[HeavyDuty]

Awesome...thanks!

You’re welcome! To be safe, hold off until mine are here to be sure they are correct.

[HCM]

Garand Thumb’s take on the 1301:


https://youtu.be/sDIUgeOzCDM

[Poconnor]

I bought my 1301 when the PF love was fresh. I really like the beretta forearm. I wish beretta made the same forearm with some Mlok slots

[i am No One]

Anyone here installed Cloud Defensive LCS for their pressure pad on Zhukovs?

[Centerfire]

I bought my 1301 when the PF love was fresh. I really like the beretta forearm. I wish beretta made the same forearm with some Mlok slots

Me too. I have the Aridus forend, other than the MLOK slots it is a step backwards from OEM. It looks cool and has MLOKS but weights more and is more complex. I have the 7-shot factory gun and took off the junky barrel clamp on day one.

[HeavyDuty]

You’re welcome! To be safe, hold off until mine are here to be sure they are correct.


Awesome...thanks!


Actually, yes - I measured mine and it’s the standard length 23-2003A-230-4. I ordered one of those and also the longer 23-2003B-230-4. But, Aridus should have the full aperture on the website by now - he put it up a day after I went to XS.

I feel the same way, I struggle with the Haught mod one even with no RDS mounted.

The new XS apertures are here. The direct replacement is 23-2003A-230-4 .230 ID Ghost Ring Aperture, and it works *much* better for me - all it takes is the slightest cheek rise to look over them. If anyone ends up needing the long stem version, it’s 23-2003B-230-4. I probably won’t need it but it was easier to have them both on hand.

[dontshakepandas]

Me too. I have the Aridus forend, other than the MLOK slots it is a step backwards from OEM. It looks cool and has MLOKS but weights more and is more complex. I have the 7-shot factory gun and took off the junky barrel clamp on day one.

If you want to get rid of that junky Aridus forend let me know!

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

If you want to get rid of that junky Aridus forend let me know!

Good call DSP, been using the OEM forend on my gen 1 since 2015 w/ zero issues but after adding a Zhukov recently AND having it stippled the *grippiness* of it is a metric assload better.

[Centerfire]

Good call DSP, been using the OEM forend on my gen 1 since 2015 w/ zero issues but after adding a Zhukov recently AND having it stippled the *grippiness* of it is a metric assload better.

Do you have some pictures? Stippling is on my list but I haven't had time.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Do you have some pictures? Stippling is on my list but I haven't had time.

long day so crashing now & will see if I can load some Thrs.

[Paul Blackburn]

The top of MAGPUL forend doesnt fit snug where it interfaces with the barrel. This gap allows dirt/debris to be introduced into the system. Not so much a problem for range use but I prefer the OEM forend myself.

[trajiiic]

Well, you guys weren't kidding about the Esstac shotgun cards.

I originally ordered OSOE Gear shotgun cards. I like OSOE, they are made in TN and have decent quality gear despite being a little dated and having a bit of a c*** owner. After one of the 2 OSOE 5 shot cards stitching started coming loose on the elastic I decided to get the Esstac.

Having the Esstac side-by-side with the OSOE, the Esstac quality seems to be better in every way. The sticking and materials look to be bomb proof. I got a 7 and a 5 round Esstac card. I'll keep the OSOE in the range bag for quick change reload practice though.


https://i.ibb.co/YNdr5sp/PXL-20220211-142910422.jpg

[Adamantine Piggy]

Joined here simply to say thank you for everyone who has contributed to the most useful information I've found on the Beretta 1301 anywhere!

Figured I'd add a little info of my own. With the GG&G Magpul Stock adaptor, you can readily use any other Mossberg stock too. I assume the Aridus stock adaptor would work too, but the GG&G one was $25 cheaper. I use a Hogue Overmold 12" LOP with the 1301. It makes it a good bit shorter in LOP than the Magpul set at it's shortest length and unfortunately, I think the Magpul is ugly as hell (regardless of it's utility). Since I use the 12" hogue on all three of my pumps (590A1, 870, and Win 1300) I am very comfortable with the rubber coated Hogue stock and it's quality. You need a 140mm M6x1.0 bolt to thread/attach to the GG&G adaptor recoil adaptor if anyone else is interested.

Here's a pic of the GG&G stock adaptor and Hogue 12" vs Beretta stock length. And yes, 5/8 an inch shorter than even a Magpul stock makes a big difference.
https://i.ibb.co/QFzTpDp/Stocks.jpg


If I did it again, I'd probably get the GG&G "Remington" stock adaptor and the Hogue "Remington" 12 LOP stock like I have on my 870. Why? Because normal Mossberg stocks have a small semi circle alignment cutout on the bottom. The adaptor has an alignment tab, but it does not completely fill in the cutout so there is a small gap. Not a huge deal, but using the Remington adaptor and stock would not have this little gap. While it annoys me, it's not enough of an annoyance to spend more money rectifying it! One day, I'll fill the gap with epoxy or something.
https://i.ibb.co/091p5yr/gap.jpg

[Del Gue]

I just picked up a 1301 in FDE last week.

I am trying to decide what optics to put on it. I was thinking maybe Trijicon RMR or EoTech, or possibly the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro.

What seems to be the consensus ref most of y'all regarding the best optics?

[jeep45238]

I just picked up a 1301 in FDE last week.

I am trying to decide what optics to put on it. I was thinking maybe Trijicon RMR or EoTech, or possibly the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro.

What seems to be the consensus ref most of y'all regarding the best optics?

I went with a Holosun HS503CU (doughnut of death). I went with the tube style, as it can function as an extremely crude sighting system if the reticle doesn't work. The reticle provides a good reference for your load selection vs. target size to keep accountability. I know that if a head fills the circle, every pellet will go in the dome - if the chest fills it, every pellet will go in the chest. The dot is zero'd for slugs at 100 yards.

[Andy in NH]

I went with a Holosun HS503CU (doughnut of death). I went with the tube style, as it can function as an extremely crude sighting system if the reticle doesn't work. The reticle provides a good reference for your load selection vs. target size to keep accountability. I know that if a head fills the circle, every pellet will go in the dome - if the chest fills it, every pellet will go in the chest. The dot is zero'd for slugs at 100 yards.

I had a Holosun on my 1301, but the push button controls did not like the recoil with slugs.

YMMV, just be aware.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=1274138&viewfull=1#post1274138

[jeep45238]

I had a Holosun on my 1301, but the push button controls did not like the recoil with slugs.

YMMV, just be aware.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=1274138&viewfull=1#post1274138

Much appreciated, aiming to have more of an ammo budget this year.

[Del Gue]

Based on further investigation of this thread, I think I am going to go with a CROM and an RMR.

Thanks for the input, guys!

[Pnut]

Hello all! Just purchased a 1301 LE but I don’t pick it up for a few days. Checking out the gun at the shop, I saw that it has no changeable choke tubes, has the factory 7 round magazine tube, and comes in a cardboard box.

I also has the URBINO stock. I’m not a big fan of pistol grip shotguns, but I’ll give it a try for a while. Just in case though, I ordered the Magpul/GGG kit. I called GGG and they will be available to ship in a week or two. I decided on the GGG kit due to availability, price, and the included recoil buffer. I know the buffer is a debatable issue, but I figure it can’t hurt.

I currently own a Benelli/HK M1 Super 90 which I’ve owned for almost 20 years! Love the gun but after seeing all the rave reviews on the 1301, I decided to give it a try. Another reason for the purchase was the included optic rail. My Benelli is not tapped for optic mounts.

[ScotchMan]

I just discovered that the Federal Flite Control 00 Buck loads will only allow 6 rounds to fit in the 1301T with factory 7 round extension. They are just a tiny bit longer than the Hornady Critical Defense that also uses the Flite Control wad (called Versatite by them but it is the same wad). The Hornady can fit 7 rounds, but is 1600fps and 9 pellets.

Specific load info:

Federal Tactical 12ga 00 Buck 8 Pellet 1145fps w/ Flite Control Wad
Hornady Critical Defense 12ga 00 Buck 9 pellet 1600fps w/ Versatite Wad

The Federal load is plated while the Hornady is not.

This might be a reason to choose the Nordic extension over the factory choice, though the factory choice is one piece (so not truly an "extension"). Or a reason to choose Hornady 00 buck loads instead of the gold standard Federal.

I am wondering if a different follower might allow enough space for the 7th round to fit...

[dontshakepandas]

I just discovered that the Federal Flite Control 00 Buck loads will only allow 6 rounds to fit in the 1301T with factory 7 round extension. They are just a tiny bit longer than the Hornady Critical Defense that also uses the Flite Control wad (called Versatite by them but it is the same wad). The Hornady can fit 7 rounds, but is 1600fps and 9 pellets.

Specific load info:

Federal Tactical 12ga 00 Buck 8 Pellet 1145fps w/ Flite Control Wad
Hornady Critical Defense 12ga 00 Buck 9 pellet 1600fps w/ Versatite Wad

The Federal load is plated while the Hornady is not.

This might be a reason to choose the Nordic extension over the factory choice, though the factory choice is one piece (so not truly an "extension"). Or a reason to choose Hornady 00 buck loads instead of the gold standard Federal.

I am wondering if a different follower might allow enough space for the 7th round to fit...

I took off the plastic magazine cap and can fit 7 Flite Control loads. I haven't had a chance to fire it with this configuration yet, but I know this was common with the older 5+1 configuration too.

[ScotchMan]

I took off the plastic magazine cap and can fit 7 Flite Control loads. I haven't had a chance to fire it with this configuration yet, but I know this was common with the older 5+1 configuration too.

That's interesting, why would the plastic cap matter? Is it somehow constricting the available space?

[RancidSumo]

I just discovered that the Federal Flite Control 00 Buck loads will only allow 6 rounds to fit in the 1301T with factory 7 round extension. They are just a tiny bit longer than the Hornady Critical Defense that also uses the Flite Control wad (called Versatite by them but it is the same wad). The Hornady can fit 7 rounds, but is 1600fps and 9 pellets.

Specific load info:

Federal Tactical 12ga 00 Buck 8 Pellet 1145fps w/ Flite Control Wad
Hornady Critical Defense 12ga 00 Buck 9 pellet 1600fps w/ Versatite Wad

The Federal load is plated while the Hornady is not.

This might be a reason to choose the Nordic extension over the factory choice, though the factory choice is one piece (so not truly an "extension"). Or a reason to choose Hornady 00 buck loads instead of the gold standard Federal.

I am wondering if a different follower might allow enough space for the 7th round to fit...

It will be hard to find in this long thread (we need an index), but the Nordic extension has the same issue with a full-length spring. The instructions actually say to trim the spring. I think I trimmed mine to 11" (don't take my word on the length - I'd find the actual instructions and follow them) free spring length when the cap is removed and it now lets me comfortably load 7.

[ScotchMan]

It will be hard to find in this long thread (we need an index), but the Nordic extension has the same issue with a full-length spring. The instructions actually say to trim the spring. I think I trimmed mine to 11" (don't take my word on the length - I'd find the actual instructions and follow them) free spring length when the cap is removed and it now lets me comfortably load 7.

Interesting. I'm surprised Federal doesn't apply a slightly bigger crimp to be the same OAL as Hornady. Maybe they are too busy selling every box they can produce :D

[dontshakepandas]

That's interesting, why would the plastic cap matter? Is it somehow constricting the available space?

Removing it lets the spring extend to the end of the screw on cover when assembled which gives it the tiny bit of extra space that is needed.

Obviously, with the retaining cap removed the spring won’t be captured so you’ll have to be careful during disassembly, but that’s no different than the older model with the Nordic extension.

[ScotchMan]

Removing it lets the spring extend to the end of the screw on cover when assembled which gives it the tiny bit of extra space that is needed.

Obviously, with the retaining cap removed the spring won’t be captured so you’ll have to be careful during disassembly, but that’s no different than the older model with the Nordic extension.

Thanks. Do you know if anyone has played with replacing the follower?

[RancidSumo]

Thanks. Do you know if anyone has played with replacing the follower?

Replacing with a Carrier Comp follower on the Nordic models would let me just squeeze in #7. I ditched it and went with the trimmed spring because I didn't like being right on the edge - having an extra 1/2-3/4" after the 7th round is loaded gives more room for error in loading IMO.

[TCinVA]

Thanks. Do you know if anyone has played with replacing the follower?

I've seen non-factory followers hang up in the transition between an aftermarket magazine tube and the factory magazine tube. I experienced it myself and I've seen it in several client guns.

In the updated models with the one piece tube from the factory that shouldn't be a concern.

[Ed L]

My 1301 has the Nordic extension and my gun will just about hold 7 rounds in the magazine. When I push my finger in with 7 rounds in the magazine I may have an additional 1/4" of movement. I compared some Federal 9 pellet 00 flight control in overall length to Ranger 00 Buck and they seem the same length.

If it were my Beretta 1301 that only held 6 rounds in the magazine, my response would be "Oh, well. I really like the gun a lot and can live with this. It would be nice if it held 7 rounds in the magazine . . ." And then I would move on. Having said that, I am not so wedded to flight control that I would not use a different brand of quality 2 3/4" ammo if it allowed me to load an extra round of ammo as long as my home defense situation did not depend on longer shots or tight patterns. As far as trying to modify the gun to enable the magazine to allow it to hold 7 rounds, I would be more concerned about sacrificing reliability.

Emphasis before edit window locks: I would have to really look at my overall situation to decide whether the tighter pattern of the flight control was worth sacrificing on round of ammo--6 rounds of flight control in the magazine vs 7 rounds of a quality buckshot that does not pattern as tighty. Or I would decide that I would rather only have 6 rounds in the magazine rather than stuff the extra round it. It's like comedian Richard Lewis wondering whether he should have 6 or 7 rounds in his magazine (three people reading this might get the Richard Lewis reference.).

[Ed L]

Here is a video of me trying to make a decision about a Beretta 1301 with a magazine that can hold 6 rounds of flight control or 7 rounds of other buckshot:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMz7JBRbmNo

[TCinVA]

My primary gun has the Nordic extension in it and will fit 7 shells of FFC in the magazine.

But I installed the extension myself after the fact (quite some time after buying the gun, actually) and I trimmed the Nordic magazine spring to length to allow that. I've seen no problems with the function of the shotgun in thousands of rounds. The magazine tube stays fully loaded with an 8th shell on the lifter as it's my HD gun.

I'm not sure what magazine spring you have in your gun, but I'd have zero hesitation to buy a Nordic magazine spring and trim it so that you can fit seven shells in the gun and still have a little bit of movement. It doesn't seem to hurt the function of the gun any. The quality of the spring is good enough that you don't have to replace it yearly as a consequence, either. I'm still running my original Nordic spring in the gun after a lot more abuse than most people will ever see.

I would also have zero concern running one less shell in the magazine. Partly because I'm unlikely to go through six shells and still have a problem to solve in a home defense situation. Partly because I can get another round from my side saddle on target in about a second and a half.

[mmc45414]

It will be hard to find in this long thread (we need an index), but the Nordic extension has the same issue with a full-length spring. The instructions actually say to trim the spring. I think I trimmed mine to 11" (don't take my word on the length - I'd find the actual instructions and follow them) free spring length when the cap is removed and it now lets me comfortably load 7.
It is my understanding that Nordic and Wolff only have one spring, and since Nordic makes a +9 extension it would make sense it needs to be trimmed with a +2. I do mine to ~14" (I think that was the Wolff recommendation?) but you can probably get by with less.
ETA: Not sure this is just a known thing, but I use the hole in the end cap to stick a 22cal cleaning rod through and it make wrestling with the spring a thing of the past. I think the hole is there to drain water or something but it sure is handy.


I've seen non-factory followers hang up in the transition between an aftermarket magazine tube and the factory magazine tube. I experienced it myself and I've seen it in several client guns.
This happened with my 391 (my 1301C is the new one) when I used the clamp, might have been the first time I used the Nordic follower, but taking the clamp off solved the problem (that I hastily removed while preloading at a match...).
Nordic's guidelines are they recommend it and require it for +4 and greater. My +3 for my 21" 1301C gets here today, It should stick out just a bit past the Briley choke, and I do not plan to use a clamp (don't like the weight, don't plan to mount a light on this one or a sling up there).
I also took the factory clamp off of my new style 1301T while I was doing some work to it and left it off. Didn't realize how butt-ugly it was until I took it off. :cool:

[HeavyDuty]

My Nordic clamp has been on and off as much as a hooker’s panties, but I’ve finally left in on as assurance the extension won’t spontaneously unscrew.

[Centerfire]

My 1301 with the factory 7 round tube only held six rounds when new. I took out the magazine spring retention cap and the gun now holds seven rounds. The plastic spring retention cap caused the magazine spring to coil bind 1/2" too soon. The only downside is the magazine tube cover/barrel retention nut is now under spring tension from the magazine spring. There's an infinite amount of OEM and aftermarket 12ga magazine springs on the market, I'd probably buy a few and cut them down if you can't load to the manufacturer's advertised capacity.

[dontshakepandas]

My 1301 with the factory 7 round tube only held six rounds when new. I took out the magazine spring retention cap and the gun now holds seven rounds. The plastic spring retention cap caused the magazine spring to coil bind 1/2" too soon. The only downside is the magazine tube cover/barrel retention nut is now under spring tension from the magazine spring. There's an infinite amount of OEM and aftermarket 12ga magazine springs on the market, I'd probably buy a few and cut them down if you can't load to the manufacturer's advertised capacity.

Have you had any function issues with the retention cap removed?

[trajiiic]

I have the GG&G magazine extension coming in soon. I'll post my install experience soon after I receive it. I don't know if it comes with a new magazine spring or not. This leads me to my next question...

I've read in this thread that the Nordic comes with a high quality extended spring but can also be used with the OEM Beretta spring. I don't know where Nordic's extended spring is sourced from. I'm wondering if I might like to use one of the XP Wolff magazine tube springs listed below to replace the OEM Beretta spring. I've used Wolff XP springs in all of my pistol magazines. In those cases, the OEM springs were toast; 9mm Shield springs which are known to bow and snap and USGI/shitty M9 Beretta magazines which some were okay others were shot. So, I felt vindicated upgrading them with a proper spring. I've read that OEM shotgun magazine springs, from all manufacturers, should be replaced at regular intervals. I've also read on this thread that storing the shotgun at maximum capacity will A) slowly deform the shells B) reduce the life of the magazine spring.

My 1301 sits in a closet for home defense with 5 FC in the tube and 1 on the carrier. It stays that way most the year until I go to the range and shoot the ammo that was in the gun, plus a few hundred mixed shells, gets cleaned, and stored for HD just like before. I'm wondering if using the Wolff XP spring, which I assume will have a longer service life than the Beretta OEM spring, will be a bad idea for someone who stores their shotgun fully loaded.

I'm stuck between using the OEM spring, Wolf XP spring, or Wolf XP Extended spring in this HD shotgun with a +2 extension. What are your thoughts? I default to the many shotgun experts available in this forum.

Thanks!

Wolff Springs:

TUBULAR XP SHOTGUN MAG SPRING 12 GAUGE (65165)
TUBULAR XP SHOTGUN MAG SPRING 12 GA 45 INCH (65167)
https://www.gunsprings.com/MAGAZINE%20SPRINGS%20(TUBULAR-TYPE)%20FOR%20RIFLES%20&%20SHOTGUNS/Tubular%20Magazine%20Springs/cID4/mID137/dID411

[Centerfire]

Have you had any function issues with the retention cap removed?

No, none. I knew about the capacity issue prior to even firing the gun and removed the retention cap day one. I have 1k+ rounds through it without the cap.

[dontshakepandas]

No, none. I knew about the capacity issue prior to even firing the gun and removed the retention cap day one. I have 1k+ rounds through it without the cap.

Awesome, thanks. I took mine out too but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. I can't imagine it would cause any problems, but its nice to have some reassurance.

[TCinVA]

My Nordic clamp has been on and off as much as a hooker’s panties, but I’ve finally left in on as assurance the extension won’t spontaneously unscrew.

I had the clamp on at first, but I ditched it after a while to see if the mag tube would loosen with shooting the way so many magazine caps and extensions do. It never has. I never cinch it down tighter than I can loosen just by hand and it never loosens on me when I shoot. It also makes disassembly much easier when I don't have to worry about the magazine clamp and I tend to take my guns apart quite often to lubricate them...so for me ditching the clamp just made sense.

Edit - I'm also using my shotgun in a training environment fairly often. This past summer it meant using the gun in Oklahoma clay when we were caught in heavy downpours and everything was covered in thick red mud. The ability to quickly clean out the inside and outside of your magazine tube (since the gas piston rides on it) is useful, IMO. Far moreso than the rail space of the clamp. YMMV.

[TCinVA]

Have you had any function issues with the retention cap removed?

I lost the magazine retention cap almost immediately when I got my first 1301 because getting that bastard back into the gun is a bitch on stilts. I've fired thousands of shells without it. It is literally there just to make normal takedown of the gun a little easier since the magazine cap isn't under pressure.

Installing the magazine cap while holding spring pressure is way easier than futzing with the retention cap.

[GJM]

I had the clamp on at first, but I ditched it after a while to see if the mag tube would loosen with shooting the way so many magazine caps and extensions do. It never has. I never cinch it down tighter than I can loosen just by hand and it never loosens on me when I shoot. It also makes disassembly much easier when I don't have to worry about the magazine clamp and I tend to take my guns apart quite often to lubricate them...so for me ditching the clamp just made sense.

I have been pretty lazy about PM on the 1301 (and M2) figuring Brenneke slugs have enough oomph to make things work. Where are you lubricating the 1301 and at what schedule?

[TCinVA]

1301's are extremely forgiving of neglect. They don't need to be clean or very well lubricated to run even when dirty. Even so, they're going to be more reliable when you have lubrication to help encapsulate dirt, grit, and fouling and that will help flow that stuff away from the critical areas that make the gun work.

When I lube the gun while apart, I put a drop on each of the bolt's locking lugs. I put another drop in the recesses in the barrel where the locking lugs go. I put a couple of drops around the cam pin area in the top of the bolt and I work the face of the bolt back and forth a few times to distribute that lube over as much of the surface inside the bolt carrier as possible. Right before reassembly I'll put a few drops on the bolt carrier's rails. Every now and then I apply a little bit of lube to the recoil spring.

When I don't take the gun apart I just use my needle oiler to put a few drops on the tail of the bolt (where it will work into the same areas as lubing the cam pin area) and I run some on the bolt lugs so they'll move freely in the locking surfaces in the barrel.

The apart lubrication happens whenever I take the gun apart, which is usually after 3 or 4 training sessions or classes.

The non-disassembly lubrication I do every time I know I'm going to be shooting the gun, or after I've used the gun and I'm putting it back in home defense mode.

I do a proper cleaning of the gun about once a year.

I shoot the guns a lot so they get fairly dirty and they work just fine that way. But everyone should keep in mind that I'm actually shooting the guns regularly. That usually means the gun hasn't gone for more than a month since last having function verified with a round count. My gun can get really dirty, but I'm using it so frequently in a manner that I'll be able to tell just by how the gun behaves whether or not everything is functioning as it should. It's sort of the same with my carry gun. Right now my carry gun is dirty because I haven't cleaned it. But it is lubricated and I know it works because I just shot it last week.

If your shotgun is accompanying you out in the field more but being shot less, it would be wise to take some extra precautions to ensure it's working when you need it. Check it over for function and to make sure it's lubed once a week if it accompanies you out in the field daily during that week...or if it's been exposed to the rain, etc. If the gun has seen a lot of water it's a good idea to get the shells out of the magazine tube and make sure they are dry so they don't rust up (most shell heads are made of steel, not brass) inside the gun. Etc.

The more it's exposed to the elements or the rigors of bouncing around in a vehicle, the more proactive you'll want to be about maintenance.

I joke that being a 1301 armorer is like being the Maytag repair man. There ain't much to fix. But even a Maytag will need some attention if you roll it down a hill, drop it in the mud, drag it through thick brush, or drown it.

EDIT - And when I say "lube" I mean a good liquid lubricant that doesn't change viscosity when it's cold. I tend to use Amsoil's gun lube because it does really well at maintaining viscosity even at very cold temps. Slip 2000 would be just fine, too. (You don't need the EWL) I don't use grease because grease is just liquid lubricant suspended in a binder. The liquid component does all the normal things liquid oils do like migrate, evaporate, and burn off. But now you have the binder left behind that does decidedly non-lubricating things and doesn't help you or the gun. So skip grease unless you are regularly wading the gun through water.

[GearFondler]

Regarding the Nordic clamp, it's proper use requires the extension tube to be installed 1 - 2 turns loose when installing the clamp (this is in the installation instructions). This is because the clamp is made incorrectly (IMHO) and if the tube is fully screwed down the clamp will force the tube to bend upwards toward the barrel as the clamp is fully tightened. This puts pressure on the tube and the barrel. By leaving the tube a turn or two loose there is enough play to allow the tube to fit the angle the clamp requires without any pressure... But to my mind that means there now has to be some kind of gap at the seam where the extension tube interfaces with the magazine tube. That is unacceptable to my mind and is perhaps one of the reasons TCinVA has seen aftermarket followers hang up in the magazine tube.
This is all my own speculation but I won't use a clamp that requires a half-ass installation to prevent an issue that could have been solved by just making a better clamp. Plus it's a pain in the ass extra step every time I want to break it all down. No thanks.

[Pnut]

Still haven’t picked up my 1301 yet, but I’m already making future plans! A question for those running the Magpul stock with a red dot… are the cheek risers needed? I have a Leupold Delta Point laying around that I plan on throwing on the factory rail. I know everyones setup will be different based on their size, build, shooting style, etc., but I was just curious what MOST of you guys are running. Thank!

[GearFondler]

Still haven’t picked up my 1301 yet, but I’m already making future plans! A question for those running the Magpul stock with a red dot… are the cheek risers needed? I have a Leupold Delta Point laying around that I plan on throwing on the factory rail. I know everyones setup will be different based on their size, build, shooting style, etc., but I was just curious what MOST of you guys are running. Thank!With a CROM mount you won't need the riser but using anything on the Pic Rail will probably be easier with the riser.

[Pnut]

That’s what I figured… Just came back from my tax lady and the gov isn’t giving me much back this year, so no CROM in the near future.

[CarlK]

No, none. I knew about the capacity issue prior to even firing the gun and removed the retention cap day one. I have 1k+ rounds through it without the cap.

I too removed the magazine retention cap to get the full magazine capacity with FFC and have had no malfunctions.

[CarlK]

***edit- thanks gents, I had no idea that this was a design trait***

I just saw this after inspecting my 1301 today and noticing that the front lens of the Holosun appeared to be tilted. Total rounds fired with the optic in place was 50; all but 5 rounds were reduced recoil.

[HeavyDuty]

So much for buying Holosun. I just saw this after inspecting my 1301 today and noticing that the front lens of the Holosun appeared to be tilted. Total rounds fired with the optic in place was 50; all but 5 rounds were reduced recoil. The sight still functions but I no longer trust it. What are your recommendations for a “donut of death”-type reticle optic that will be of more robust quality?

Most RDS have a tilted front element, it’s part of the design.

[delphidoc]

https://www.optics-trade.eu/blog/why-is-the-objective-lens-on-my-red-dot-sight-tilted/



So much for buying Holosun. I just saw this after inspecting my 1301 today and noticing that the front lens of the Holosun appeared to be tilted. Total rounds fired with the optic in place was 50; all but 5 rounds were reduced recoil. The sight still functions but I no longer trust it. What are your recommendations for a “donut of death”-type reticle optic that will be of more robust quality?

[trajiiic]

I've finished modding my Beretta 1301 for now. The only other desire I have is a Briley handguard.

https://i.ibb.co/vsfx8f1/PXL-20220219-030405523-2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/jrDJPWV/PXL-20220219-030540459-2.jpg

The GG&G +2 extension does not come with an aftermarket magazine spring. The instructions state to use the OEM spring. I fired 77 Federal slugs today and had no issues to report. I would only note that the threads on both ends of the GG&G extension are very fine. I used AeroShell 33MS grease on the threads of the extension, the same for the Briley IC choke.

https://i.ibb.co/yBVBfBD/PXL-20220219-030618530-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/jG97nFW/PXL-20220219-030623850-2.jpg


I fired 63 Truball rifled slugs before confirming zero with both Trueball and Hydra-shok at 50 yards. Shotguns are only allowed to shoot slugs at this range. I'll be going to a different range later to verify zero with my primary load, FFC 8 or 9 pellet 00 Buck.


50 yards/ 40F temp - Federal Hydra-shok (LE127 RS left), Federal Truball (PB127 DPRS) right **Extended IC choke used**
https://i.ibb.co/ZzF5Vmn/PXL-20220219-204154566-edited.jpg (https://ibb.co/0y6Tctg)

I was not getting any consistent groups with Truball at 100yds on a 20x18 target. I will probably try again next time I'm at this range since it could have been user error or mounting error. As reported in the "poors" thread, the CROM supplied thread locker was no match for slugs.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?51397-Micro-format-RDS-that-work-with-Aridus-CROM&p=1323741#post1323741

https://i.ibb.co/bHhKWq5/PXL-20220219-234240297-edited.jpg

[Cory]

trajiiic how many rounds have you fired with that light set up? Does the polytac hold up to use as a weapon mounted light? Seems like 12G is asking a lot from it.

[trajiiic]

trajiiic how many rounds have you fired with that light set up? Does the polytac hold up to use as a weapon mounted light? Seems like 12G is asking a lot from it.

77 rounds. This is the first time it's been on the shotgun while firing. It's still working. I'll be going to a different range in the near future and probably putting 150 Buckshot and at least 30 more slugs through it. I'll update if it ever breaks.

James Reeves at TFB TV on Youtube has been using it on his budget shotgun videos. In all 3 cases the light mount failed, but the light still worked.

I've used the polytac on my 7.5" AR for 500+ rounds and it's been just fine. I had one laying around with the DD Mount so I decided to use it till it dies. I'll see if I can get some video next time I'm at the range to see if it flickers while firing, it doesn't with the AR.

[Pnut]

Finally took possession of my 1301 LE! As soon as I got it home, I stripped it down to get familiar with it. The First free mod I did was to ditch the mag tube spring retainer. Some have reported that it might limit mag capacity, but I never took the time to find out.

My 1301 has the factory 7 round mag tube and clamp. The next mod I did was to modify the tube clamp. Is stock form, you need to back out the 2 retaining screws A LOT to get it wide enough to clear the front sight post. I ground down about 1/8” on each side of the top lips of the clamp. Now, I only need to loosen the screws 3-4 turns to be able to clear the sight post and slide it off the barrel!

Are there any other free or cheap mods you guys suggest? It’s going to be a few weeks before I get the gun on the range, but I’m always pulling out of the safe to admire it!

[shootist26]

did beretta discontinue the 5 round version? My local shop got a few of the new "enhanced" 1301 models with the factory 7 round tube.

I still want the 5 round version due to lower weight

[Pnut]

Not sure how much UNLOADED weight you’d be saving between the 5 vs 7 rounders. The 7 rounders extended tube is made of thin metal tubing which is covered by a polymer sleeve. The sleeve is supported with a removable barrel clamp that is also polymer. I’d think the weight savings might be a few ounces?

[OlongJohnson]

did beretta discontinue the 5 round version? My local shop got a few of the new "enhanced" 1301 models with the factory 7 round tube.

I still want the 5 round version due to lower weight

It would probably be easy to find someone who wanted to trade.

[Pnut]

My GGG/Magpul Mossberg stock kit arrived today. I bought it to replace the Urbino pistol grip stock that came with the gun. I’d did some measurements that I thought I’d share with you guys.

The Urbino stock has the standard (non Limb Saver) butt pad and measured 11.5” from butt to where it meets the receiver. It weighed about 2 pounds with all its hardware.

The Magpul with no additional spacers also measured 11.5”, including the GGG adapter. It weighed 1.5 pounds with all of its hardware.

Oddly enough, I don’t think I’ll need cheek risers for the Magpul setup. I’m currently running a Vortex Venom RDS on the stock rail. With the Urbino, I had to put the included cheek riser up 2 positions to get a comfortable sight. Once I installed the Magpul, everything lined up right.

The Urbino’s adjustable cheek riser feels nicer that the Magpul though. It’s wider and when cinched up to your face, feels more comfortable. The Magpul is narrow and feels like it would jab your face a bit. I haven’t shot the gun yet, but When I do, I’ll let everyone know.

[Pnut]

Here’s a free mod if your running a sling. I’m running a Blue Force Gear sling on mine. All the adjustment ends are cut straight. If you re-cut and seal them at an angle, it’s much easier to lace them through the tri-glides when you adjust them.

84841

[Jason M]

did beretta discontinue the 5 round version? My local shop got a few of the new "enhanced" 1301 models with the factory 7 round tube.

I still want the 5 round version due to lower weight

I will trade. Buy the extended mag version and I'll swap with you.

[Standard]

After using the Aridus/Magpul setup, I'm considering going back to stock... Unfortunately, I somehow cross threaded the rear stock bolt... Does anyone who upgraded to the Magpul setup have one laying around they'd like to donate/sell?

[mmc45414]

did beretta discontinue the 5 round version?
Doesn't look like there are many/any out there right now.
Know that if you can find the tube:
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C59948
that is the primary thing you need to convert it. It is considered a wear item and is replaceable, just out of stock everywhere, but then a lotta things are these days. It seems to be in stock here, but not sure it is:
https://freedomfightertactical.com/products/c59948-beretta-1301-oem-magazine-tube?_pos=1&_sid=f1643a966&_ss=r
But if you find the tube all else you would need would be the cap, but that should be easy enough.
And if you found somebody that wanted to switch but not trade guns you could trade parts?


I still want the 5 round version due to lower weight
I got the new 7+1, but maybe sorta wish I had the short one. I just like the aesthetics a little bit more, though after taking the clamp off it seems to be a bit sleeker. I was also scheming to make it 8+1 before I got my 1301 Comp, I was wanting to come up with a way to make it hold TacOps division capacity for three gun, but then I went ahead and got the 1301C. But now since I got the 1301C setup for 8+1 I am wondering about changing the 1301T either back to 5+1, or getting that cute little +1 Nordic tube (that has a QD in the end of it), so I will probably just troll for one of the replacement tubes and get one if I ever catch it in stock, just so I can experiment around with it just to be a snowflake gun hipster guy (would be about the only thing hip about me...).

[Pnut]

Finally got to the range today to test out my 1301 and zero it in with the Vortex Viper on the factory rail. The good news is that it ate everything I fed it… standard and low recoil slugs, and even bird shot.

The bad new wasn’t with the gun but with the red dot. I maxed out the elevation but was still low by 4-5 inched at 25 yards. I guess I could buys a spacer to elevate the red dot. The photo shows my group. The lower group was me dialing in the dot at dead center till I maxed out the dial. The higher group was me aiming for the apex 3 inches above dead center.

84862

[civil1977]

I still want the 5 round version due to lower weight

There are a few on GunBroker if you are interested in the Marine or FDE finishes. Don’t see any black ones listed right now.

[StraitR]

If you're impact is low relative to POA, then elevating the dot (POA) would make it worse, unless I'm interpreting your post and photos wrong.

[lurkmode]

Just picked up the newest version of the 1301. Do you guys recommend the Nordic tube or will the oem suffice? Any pro tips would be appreciated as I'm on the prowl to get this thing dialed in

[Pnut]

I may be wrong, but I thought I’d get more range if I elevated the entire optic?!?! I ran out of dial movement adjusting the POINT IF IMPACT… I hope. The dial showed “UP” to be counter clockwise. That would be the POI? I maxed it out turning counter clockwise.

My head hurts now trying to figure all this POI/POA stuff. So will elevating the ENTIRE optic give me what I need???

[dontshakepandas]

I may be wrong, but I thought I’d get more range if I elevated the entire optic?!?! I ran out of dial movement adjusting the POINT IF IMPACT… I hope. The dial showed “UP” to be counter clockwise. That would be the POI? I maxed it out turning counter clockwise.

My head hurts now trying to figure all this POI/POA stuff. So will elevating the ENTIRE optic give me what I need???

No, if you are already maxed out trying to bring your point of impact up, you'd need to move the optic lower lower, the same way you move a front sight post DOWN to bring the point of impact UP.

[Pnut]

While waiting for my 1301, I did tons of research and discovered ESSTAC and their highly recommended cards. I purchased a couple and like them. I realized I had a pair of cards made by HSGI so I dug them up to compare. I know these cards are pretty much disposable items so take this comparison with a grain of salt…

The HSGI cards seem to be more heavy duty. The elastic is much thicker, the edges are finished and the card stock feels stiffer. They feature a pull tab which is made of folded over webbing. Last I checked, they only make 5 rounders and cost a lot more than the ESSTACs.

The ESSTAC cards are less expensive, but still good quality. They come in 4, 5, 6, or 7 round holders. They’re pull tab is a loop of para cord, which I feel is easier to grab. In the future, I’d probably stock up on the ESSTAC cards due to price.

Here are side by side pics of the two, HSGI to to the left and on top.

8493784938

[Pnut]

No, if you are already maxed out trying to bring your point of impact up, you'd need to move the optic lower lower, the same way you move a front sight post DOWN to bring the point of impact UP.

Ugh!!! Looks like I’m gonna need to drop MORE money on this gun for a new optic…. At least I already had the Venom laying around, so no money lost there…

[jandbj]

Ugh!!! Looks like I’m gonna need to drop MORE money on this gun for a new optic…. At least I already had the Venom laying around, so no money lost there…

You may be able to “beer can shim” the rear of the mount to induce a wee bit of cant to the rail.

[lurkmode]

While waiting for my 1301, I did tons of research and discovered ESSTAC and their highly recommended cards. I purchased a couple and like them. I realized I had a pair of cards made by HSGI so I dug them up to compare. I know these cards are pretty much disposable items so take this comparison with a grain of salt…

The HSGI cards seem to be more heavy duty. The elastic is much thicker, the edges are finished and the card stock feels stiffer. They feature a pull tab which is made of folded over webbing. Last I checked, they only make 5 rounders and cost a lot more than the ESSTACs.

The ESSTAC cards are less expensive, but still good quality. They come in 4, 5, 6, or 7 round holders. They’re pull tab is a loop of para cord, which I feel is easier to grab. In the future, I’d probably stock up on the ESSTAC cards due to price.

Here are side by side pics of the two, HSGI to to the left and on top.

8493784938

how does it compare to the Vang card?

[Pnut]

Hmmm… I figure I could shim it in the mean time till my finances catch up. Hate putting hub caps on a Ferrari, but…

Since the Vortex Venom mount only rakes up a few pic rail sections, would I get better results by shimming rear of the actual factory rail? My only concern would be damaging the receiver’s threads.

[L-2]

I don't have the OP's optic in my hands.
You already know your current adjustment is all the way counter-clockwise.
Just try dialing the adjuster clockwise, maybe fully clockwise, to ensure "UP" is referring to the POI, and not merely moving the dot up.

Then take a few slug shots after having moved that adjustment dial/screw.

Lastly, call Vortex as perhaps there's some hardware problem and they'll replace/exchange that sight.

[Pnut]

Thanks for the reply L2. I already threw a bore sight tool and messed with the adjustments. The markings on the dial DO refer to Point of Impact and the dot is bottomed out.

I’ve decided instead of trying Micky mouse solutions and wasting time and $ on range time and ammo, I’d rather just bite the bullet and get a new red dot… ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!? This will be mounted to the factory rail btw…

[L-2]

Sorry, I'm not much of a shotgun red-dot user. Three of my shotguns are ghost-ring-sight types; one a bead sight.

On my rifles I've got two with Trijicon MROs (one red, one green dot) and another upper with an Eotech EXPS2-0. These all work well for me.

[HCM]

While waiting for my 1301, I did tons of research and discovered ESSTAC and their highly recommended cards. I purchased a couple and like them. I realized I had a pair of cards made by HSGI so I dug them up to compare. I know these cards are pretty much disposable items so take this comparison with a grain of salt…

The HSGI cards seem to be more heavy duty. The elastic is much thicker, the edges are finished and the card stock feels stiffer. They feature a pull tab which is made of folded over webbing. Last I checked, they only make 5 rounders and cost a lot more than the ESSTACs.

The ESSTAC cards are less expensive, but still good quality. They come in 4, 5, 6, or 7 round holders. They’re pull tab is a loop of para cord, which I feel is easier to grab. In the future, I’d probably stock up on the ESSTAC cards due to price.

Here are side by side pics of the two, HSGI to to the left and on top.

8493784938

The Vang Comp cards are better / more substantial than either of these.

[HCM]

Finally got to the range today to test out my 1301 and zero it in with the Vortex Viper on the factory rail. The good news is that it ate everything I fed it… standard and low recoil slugs, and even bird shot.

The bad new wasn’t with the gun but with the red dot. I maxed out the elevation but was still low by 4-5 inched at 25 yards. I guess I could buys a spacer to elevate the red dot. The photo shows my group. The lower group was me dialing in the dot at dead center till I maxed out the dial. The higher group was me aiming for the apex 3 inches above dead center.

84862

A photo of your gun with the optic mounted might be useful.

[Pnut]

Thanks! I’ll check out Vang. I Remember hearing about them years ago, know for barrel porting. I had no idea the did accessories too.

[Pnut]

A photo of your gun with the optic mounted might be useful.

Sorry, just took the Vortex Venom off the 1301. It’s designed as a pistol optic and looks along the lines of an RMR, but has the footprint of the Burris FastFire 3. I was using the included mounting plate and had it mounted to the factory Beretta rail.

I’ll just shoot irons until I decide on an RDS. I’m sort of leaning towards the MRO due to price, quality, and familiarity since I have one mounted on an AR.

***EDITED***
Found a pic from when I first installed the Venom…84943

[HCM]

Sorry, just took the Vortex Venom off the 1301. It’s designed as a pistol optic and looks along the lines of an RMR, but has the footprint of the Burris FastFire 3. I was using the included mounting plate and had it mounted to the factory Beretta rail.

I’ll just shoot irons until I decide on an RDS. I’m sort of leaning towards the MRO due to price, quality, and familiarity since I have one mounted on an AR.

I’m familiar with the Venom. I’m not a big fan of them but I wanted to se how high you had it mounted.

What stock do you have on the 1301?

In my experience the best way to mount an optic on the 1301 is to remove the factory rail and rear sight and use a dedicated optics mount that sits lower.

If you do use the factory rail you will need to raise the comb of the cheek piece. Red dot sites have minimal parallax but no optic is parallax free. The cheque well issue may have aggravated your zeroing problems. If your face and I are low as with the standard stock it has the same effect as raising the optic.

[Pnut]

I sighted it in with the GGG/Magpul Mossberg stock. It had the regular cheek piece on it but I have a set of Magpul cheek risers in route to be on the safe side once I decide on a RDS.

The venom is currently mounted to my old Ruger 22/45 Mk 3. It replaced an old Burris FF3 that was directly mounted to the pistol. I forget the manufacture of the direct fit plate but since the FF and Venom share the same footprint, it was a drop in fit.

[lurkmode]

I was debating between Briley 2 piece or Sure Cycle which appears to be one piece? Any other mentions chime in

[Pnut]

Hate to bore you guys with my red dot issues but I think it turns out that my Vortex Venom might be the issue. I mounted it on my Ruger 22/45 and took it to the range to sight it in. It’s all sighted in but once again, the POI knob was maxed out to the UP position.

Maybe I should post this in the RDS forum, but I thought I’d share. Either way, I’ve got a Trijicom MRO in route!

[Pnut]

I contacted Vortex to report my issue. They recommended I use a shim. They recommended a company called UM Tactical that makes a shim specially designed for this optic. I’ll give it a try… on my 22/45

[Bernomad]

I’ve been reading this thread. I had a gen 1 years ago and sold it. Would have been cheaper to keep it and modify it. Instead I bought another, the 1301 Tactical Enhanced. I’ll figure out how to upload a photo. I have the SGA stock with a GG&G adaptor. Aridus was nowhere to be found. Thanks for all of the useful info.
John

[shootist26]

There's only 1 bolt attaching the factory beretta barrel clamp. Is that normal? The hole to the right without a bolt in it has threads on the same side as the existing bolt head, meaning you can't put a bolt from the other side through.

This is the 1301 "enhanced" tactical with the factory 7 round one piece magazine and barrel clamphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/b29f734dbe41a7bef9cfcfa8a6f879f2.jpg

[kwb377]

There's only 1 bolt attaching the factory beretta barrel clamp. Is that normal? The hole to the right without a bolt in it has threads on the same side as the existing bolt head, meaning you can't put a bolt from the other side through.

This is the 1301 "enhanced" tactical with the factory 7 round one piece magazine and barrel clamphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220226/b29f734dbe41a7bef9cfcfa8a6f879f2.jpg

There should be two...one threading in from each side.

[shootist26]

There should be two...one threading in from each side.

Thought so. Looks like my barrel clamp is fucked up. If you take the bolt and try to thread it through the empty hole from the other side, it can't engage the threaded insert for some reason.

[Pnut]

Something’s definitely wrong with your barrel clamp. It’s either stripped, not threaded, or the threaded insert isn’t lined up. I know you tried threading the bolt with no success, but have you tried to thread it with the two haves separated? That way you could determine if it’s threaded or not.

I’d contact Beretta to get a new one. I don’t think the aftermarket clamps work with the Beretta tube. Either way, a cheap or temporary solution would be to drill out the thread insert and just use a longer bolt and a nut.

[peterb]

Something’s definitely wrong with your barrel clamp. It’s either stripped, not threaded, or the threaded insert isn’t lined up. I know you tried threading the bolt with no success, but have you tried to thread it with the two haves separated? That way you could determine if it’s threaded or not.

I’d contact Beretta to get a new one. I don’t think the aftermarket clamps work with the Beretta tube. Either way, a cheap or temporary solution would be to drill out the thread insert and just use a longer bolt and a nut.

I’d try running a tap through the insert before drilling it out.

Did you loosen the existing bolt before trying to thread the second one? Having just one tight may pull the hole out of line.

[shootist26]

Figured out what the issue is. There is a ton of plastic flashing right around the threaded insert that is blocking the bolt from entering. Very difficult to see. I worked the bolt in hard several times and managed to get it threaded in. Each time I removed the bolt, it took some of the flashing out. So now I can get it threaded in, but I still only have 1 bolt:rolleyes: Email sent to Beretta

Here's another interesting thing:
The SKU the gun shop sold me was J131TT18NLE, which is apparently part of Beretta's LE sales program https://www.beretta.com/en-us/bdt/american-defender-program-products/

I think the regular "gen 2.5" 1301 Tactical SKU is j131tt18c, which has an IC choke. My J131TT18NLE is a cylinder bore, but the same factory 7 round tube and barrel clamp as the regular gen 2.5 ones

[Pnut]

I got an LE version too. Only difference I can tell is the lack of choke tubes, no instruction manual and mine came in a cardboard box. Mine also came with the Urbino stock, but I think the LEs have the option for standard stocks as well.

Finding ANY 1301s right now seems to be hard, but I checked out a local dealer and he had five that were already sold and 10 more on the way. He said they were all LE models.

[lurkmode]

I know some are rocking FFT M4 or Carrier Comp which is hardly in stock. How do these stack up to Toni?

[Bernomad]

I’ve been reading this thread. I had a gen 1 years ago and sold it. Would have been cheaper to keep it and modify it. Instead I bought another, the 1301 Tactical Enhanced. I’ll figure out how to upload a photo. I have the SGA stock with a GG&G adaptor. Aridus was nowhere to be found. Thanks for all of the useful info.
John

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[shootist26]

I noticed that the Aridus/Magpul handguard leaves the magazine tube and recoil spring exposed while the Beretta handguard forms a decent seal. Has anyone with the Aridus/Magpul handguard ran into issues with dirt/debris or corrosion?

My first impressions are that I like the factory handguard a lot. It is very slim and grippy.

[Bernomad]

I noticed that the Aridus/Magpul handguard leaves the magazine tube and recoil spring exposed while the Beretta handguard forms a decent seal. Has anyone with the Aridus/Magpul handguard ran into issues with dirt/debris or corrosion?

My first impressions are that I like the factory handguard a lot. It is very slim and grippy.

I like the factory hand guard with all the grip as well. However, I’ve not heard of any problems with the exposed spring parts. I suppose it could be a problem in a battle environment?

[Bernomad]

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[Pnut]

I was messing around with the 1301 again and was trying to figure out a good tac light setup. Here’s what I came up with… Since my 1301 came it’s the barrel clamp/QD socket/Mlok rail thing, I decided to see if I could make use of it. I used a Magpul cantilever rail section and mounted it backwards, away from the muzzle. I then mounted an X300 as far back on the rail as possible. I can easily operate the light with my left thumb. The sling swivel does rub against the light body slightly, but not a big deal. I could always slide the barrel clamp forward or back to get the right reach.

What do you guys think?

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[Pnut]

Btw, nice pair of shotguns there Bernomad! M4 and 1301! I’ve got a similar set, only me Benelli is MUCH older… an HK marked M1 Super 90! Decided to step into the modern age with th 1301!

[lurkmode]

I was messing around with the 1301 again and was trying to figure out a good tac light setup. Here’s what I came up with… Since my 1301 came it’s the barrel clamp/QD socket/Mlok rail thing, I decided to see if I could make use of it. I used a Magpul cantilever rail section and mounted it backwards, away from the muzzle. I then mounted an X300 as far back on the rail as possible. I can easily operate the light with my left thumb. The sling swivel does rub against the light body slightly, but not a big deal. I could always slide the barrel clamp forward or back to get the right reach.

What do you guys think?

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As long as you can operate it efficiently and comfortably from there you should be good to go.

[Cory]

My 1301 is a gen 2, with a nordic extension. I don't use the clamp that came with the extension. I'm probably going to end up putting an streamlight flashlight mount ala TCinVA.

For those using a similar set up, how or where are you attaching a sling in the front?

I'm a little up in the air about needing a sling at all for my uses, but I'm thinking about it. I thought gg&g had a flashlight mount similar to streamlight's with a sling mount on the bottom, but haven't been able to find it.

[Quasimojo45]

I'm a little up in the air about needing a sling at all for my uses, but I'm thinking about it. I thought gg&g had a flashlight mount similar to streamlight's with a sling mount on the bottom, but haven't been able to find it.


Yeah I have the GG&G mount with the sling loop at top...I'd rather have it on the bottom as well. I'm not terribly crafty but I wondered about trying to make one of their other mounts work.

[lurkmode]

My 1301 is a gen 2, with a nordic extension. I don't use the clamp that came with the extension. I'm probably going to end up putting an streamlight flashlight mount ala TCinVA.

For those using a similar set up, how or where are you attaching a sling in the front?

I'm a little up in the air about needing a sling at all for my uses, but I'm thinking about it. I thought gg&g had a flashlight mount similar to streamlight's with a sling mount on the bottom, but haven't been able to find it.

I was researching as I want to use the oem rail on mine. From what Ive seen GGG only had the sling mount on top of the pic rail. I wish they made the QD swivel version with a pic rail on the same side.

[Bernomad]

Btw, nice pair of shotguns there Bernomad! M4 and 1301! I’ve got a similar set, only me Benelli is MUCH older… an HK marked M1 Super 90! Decided to step into the modern age with th 1301!

Thanks Pnut. The HK marked Super 90s are quite valuable are they not? I love the M4. I’d rather it had a standard stock with a shorter length of pull. Ni don’t have that figured out yet, so I went with the Mesa Tactical. I can’t afford what they are asking for the collapsible stock from Benelli. Yikes. I am really loving this 1301. The more I shoot it, the more I want to shoot it.

[Pnut]

Ok, this 1301 is starting to become a money pit!!! I love it so much, that I keep adding stuff to it… lights, red dots, ammo carriers, etc. I want to keep it simple but by the time I’m done, it’s gonna look like a Filipino taxi cab!!!!

But back on topic, I decided to install the LimbSaver on my Magpul stock. You’ll need to buy the special Magpul butt plate and the LimbSaver pad made for the synthetic stock 870. The pad doesn’t come with mounting screws but I found that #10 wood screws worked. I only had 1 1/2” screws but 1 1/4” might be better.

Quick tip with the screws… The Magpul butt plate isn’t threaded, it only has plastic holes/tubes that the screws should self tap into. I found it A LOT easier to run the screws in without the but pad first to tap the plastic holes.

I also ran the bottom edge of the butt pad on my belt sander to take off the sharp corner so it wouldn’t catch on loose clothing when shouldering. Enjoy the pics.

The Magpul and LimbSaver are the same thickness. If you look close, you can see my screws sticking out about a 1/4”
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Here’s before and after the belt sander
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[shootist26]

Beretta now offers their 1301 Comp Pro style lifter to owners of the Tactical model 1301’s. I recently installed one on my 1301 T, Gen 2. Here’s a link to Beretta’s website offering:

https://www.berettausa.com/en-us/3-lifter-1301-tac-pro-sty-1301/c7c940/

And here’s the YouTube link to the video I made:

https://youtu.be/XAl6iQdG59I

Thanks…

I was trying to figure out how one would drop a shell onto the lifter to put it in cruiser ready mode if the pro style lifter stays in the up position all the time. But from your video, I guess it works and the shell release button functions normally?

[Flyboytim]

I was trying to figure out how one would drop a shell onto the lifter to put it in cruiser ready mode if the pro style lifter stays in the up position all the time. But from your video, I guess it works and the shell release button functions normally?
Yes indeed, it does. If anything, it functions better because it is less likely to be accidentally pressed. Other than cost, I don’t see any downsides to this style of lifter.

[Pnut]

My delivery guy was busy today. My MRO just arrived and I threw it on the 1301! I ordered it with the lowest mount and installed it on the factory rail. Although I preferred the sleeker look of the Vortex Venom, I didn’t want to deal with the Venom’s problem of not being able to zero.

It looks like I will need a cheek riser for my Magpul stock to get a comfortable sight picture. I have the LOW kit in route which includes the 1/4” and 1/2” rises.

The factory iron sights are obstructed by the MRO. I heard that Aridus is working on a low mount plate, but I’ll wait and see. I’m waiting patiently to get to the range to test out the LimbSaver and zero in the MRO.

[lurkmode]

beats paying $25 from FFT and the ones similar to it on amazon got terrible reviews. Here's the link...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001P0VF8?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

[shootist26]

Yeah I have the GG&G mount with the sling loop at top...I'd rather have it on the bottom as well. I'm not terribly crafty but I wondered about trying to make one of their other mounts work.

Are you referring to this?
https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-shotgun-looped-sling-and-light-mount.html

I'm thinking about picking it up since I'm trying to stick with the factory handguard. What about it doesn't work for you?

[Quasimojo45]

Are you referring to this?
https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-shotgun-looped-sling-and-light-mount.html

I'm thinking about picking it up since I'm trying to stick with the factory handguard. What about it doesn't work for you?

Yes, It works fine I'd just prefer the sling loop to be ae the bottom.

like this https://www.gggaz.com/benelli-m2-sling-and-flashlight-mount.html

[Pnut]

Well I finally gun my gun all squared away! I’m running the Magpul Mossberg/GGG stock setup and an MRO with a LOW mount attached to the factory rail.

To get the proper cheek weld using the MRO, I ended up needing the .25” cheek riser. The risers came as a set, .25” and .50”, so the .50” will go in the spare parts bin.

[StraitR]

Are you referring to this?
https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-shotgun-looped-sling-and-light-mount.html

I'm thinking about picking it up since I'm trying to stick with the factory handguard. What about it doesn't work for you?

I have the same one, and prefer the attachment point to be on top. Sling attachments towards the bottom make long guns want to flop, roll over, and hang in odd orientations if not totally belly up depending on your rear mounting location.

I use a padded Vickers sling with one of their wire loop attachment thingy’s. Technical term.

[Pnut]

DON’T use 1 1/2” screws unless you are running spacers! I was running one spacer and it worked fine, but when I removed the spacer, the extended part of the screw didn’t allow the butt plate to fully seat. I just ground down the exposed part of the screw flush with the butt plate holes. Use 1 1/4” or shorter if you aren’t running spacers!

[L-2]

I'm glad that MRO is working out.
I read you already had one on another firearm, which is nice as you're already familiar with it.

Regarding the Vortex, do call them back and let them know it didn't work on two different firearms.
Perhaps there is something internally wrong which is limiting its adjustability.
Even if shims are available, if Vortex is that aware of a problem, perhaps they need to be supplying the shims with the optic, instead of having the customer go out and buy more stuff, as it's happening with two different firearms and types.

If it was me, I'd be glad if they took it back and sent me the equivalent dollars' worth in clothing or something else they make/sell, which I could use, instead of an optic which wouldn't work for me at all.

[Pnut]

I'm glad that MRO is working out.
I read you already had one on another firearm, which is nice as you're already familiar with it.

Regarding the Vortex, do call them back and let them know it didn't work on two different firearms.
Perhaps there is something internally wrong which is limiting its adjustability.
Even if shims are available, if Vortex is that aware of a problem, perhaps they need to be supplying the shims with the optic, instead of having the customer go out and buy more stuff, as it's happening with two different firearms and types.

If it was me, I'd be glad if they took it back and sent me the equivalent dollars' worth in clothing or something else they make/sell, which I could use, instead of an optic which wouldn't work for me at all.


Doing online research, it turns out it’s a common problem with Venom. When I called Vortex, they instantly knew what the problem was and said, “get the shim.” The shim worked great… on my 22/45. Didn’t want to risk it on my 1301.

[Bernomad]

Doing online research, it turns out it’s a common problem with Venom. When I called Vortex, they instantly knew what the problem was and said, “get the shim.” The shim worked great… on my 22/45. Didn’t want to risk it on my 1301.

I have a Vortex Venom on my M4 currently. It is supposed to keep me happy until I can afford an RMR on a Scalarworks mount. It works fine without a shim. Is it dependent on the mount or are some sights defective? Just curious.

[Pnut]

Bernomad, I only have experience with the the one I have. I ran it on my 1301 and my 22/45 pistol and it ran out of adjustment on BOTH guns. check out the reviews for the shim on UM TACTICAL’s web page. The shim is made for any red dot that uses the FastFire footprint, but almost every review is from someone who is using it for theirVenom.

The Venom is a nice midrange RDO. It has some nice features, a wide window, top loading battery, decent price, etc. If it only didn’t have the ZEROING problem, it be a GREAT RDO for a home gun of plinking optic.

[MK11]

Anyone know if the railed Nordic barrel clamp will fit on the factory Beretta tube extension? I just got one of the LE models with the 7 shot tube and my only immediate need is a light.

[Pnut]

I just measured my factory 7 shot tube and it was 1.2”/31mm in diameter. I don’t know what diameter the Nordic tube/clamp is.

Just curious… why not use the factory Beretta clamp? It has an Mlok slot to add a rail or light.

[MK11]

I just measured my factory 7 shot tube and it was 1.2”/31mm in diameter. I don’t know what diameter the Nordic tube/clamp is.

Just curious… why not use the factory Beretta clamp? It has an Mlok slot to add a rail or light.

Mostly because I'm a moron and didn't realize that's what is was :D. Looks like that slot might be a little too high and forward for long-term but it's a good starting point. Thanks!

Second dumb question: I can twist the stock a few centimeters side to side. Is that normal? The screws in the buttstock are tight, there's no movement forward or backward but there's definitely play side to side.

[Pnut]

Does yours have the field stock or the pistol grip? Mine had the pistol grip, but had no movement. If I recall correctly, there should be a square plate under the retaining nut that is somehow used to adjust how the stock sits. There should be some printing on it that should face back towards the butt. Some have reported their plates not installed in the correct orientation.

As far as the factory mag tube clamp/Mlok slot/QD socket, it can slide back of forth on the tube to suit your needs. I tried running it with my X300 with a pic rail section in the Mlok slot but it was a reach. I then used a Magpul cantilevered pic rail mounted facing back and it worked well. I posted about it with pics a few pages back. This setup was only temporary because I BORROWED the X300 from another gun. I think I’ll eventually go with a Scout Light mini.

[Risto]

Mostly because I'm a moron and didn't realize that's what is was :D. Looks like that slot might be a little too high and forward for long-term but it's a good starting point. Thanks!

Second dumb question: I can twist the stock a few centimeters side to side. Is that normal? The screws in the buttstock are tight, there's no movement forward or backward but there's definitely play side to side.

Mine is a tad bit loose also. It’s the only thing I’m a little disappointed with on this gun. But not enough to fix yet [emoji6]. Got about 200 rounds through it and it hasn’t gotten any more loose or had any problems.

[Bernomad]

Bernomad, I only have experience with the the one I have. I ran it on my 1301 and my 22/45 pistol and it ran out of adjustment on BOTH guns. check out the reviews for the shim on UM TACTICAL’s web page. The shim is made for any red dot that uses the FastFire footprint, but almost every review is from someone who is using it for theirVenom.

The Venom is a nice midrange RDO. It has some nice features, a wide window, top loading battery, decent price, etc. If it only didn’t have the ZEROING problem, it be a GREAT RDO for a home gun of plinking optic.

Yeah. The zeroing thing would be the deal breaker.