Beretta 1301 Tactical

[e_stern]

I was very much hoping you'd chime in.
It does release a shell when given a bump, yes.

If it's functioning 100% when being fired, it's likely a magazine spring.

[John Hearne]

Just back from the Rangemaster Defensive Shotgun Instructor Course. I have reached the conclusion that the best out-of-the-box defensive shotgun is the 1301.

There is something wrong with the universe when the semi-auto shotgun will feed and cycle the cheap birdshot that my 870 will not.

[TCinVA]

Just back from the Rangemaster Defensive Shotgun Instructor Course. I have reached the conclusion that the best out-of-the-box defensive shotgun is the 1301.

There is something wrong with the universe when the semi-auto shotgun will feed and cycle the cheap birdshot that my 870 will not.

If it's any consolation, we came to a very similar conclusion in the inaugural shotgun instructor's course due to Remington's shortcomings.

[e_stern]

I was very much hoping you'd chime in.
It does release a shell when given a bump, yes.

To add to this, I'd recommend the Nordic extended mag spring cut to fit. I used the factory mag spring with the nordic extension on my demo gun until it started behaving like this, and while the factory mag spring was acceptable durability wise (over a thousand cycles, I stopped counting..), the Nordic one is just stronger.

That being said, I wouldn't say it's a must if you aren't running the hell out of the gun the way I do in Demos, but if you're going to replace it anyways, might as well use the stronger one.

[OlongJohnson]

If it's any consolation, we came to a very similar conclusion in the inaugural shotgun instructor's course due to Remington's shortcomings.

You guys are making me glad I sold all my 870s and kept the 1301.

[Cacafuego]

If it's functioning 100% when being fired, it's likely a magazine spring.

That's what I was thinking, but it's nice to hear it from someone who knows what they're talking about :)

[Cacafuego]

To add to this, I'd recommend the Nordic extended mag spring cut to fit. I used the factory mag spring with the nordic extension on my demo gun until it started behaving like this, and while the factory mag spring was acceptable durability wise (over a thousand cycles, I stopped counting..), the Nordic one is just stronger.

That being said, I wouldn't say it's a must if you aren't running the hell out of the gun the way I do in Demos, but if you're going to replace it anyways, might as well use the stronger one.

Regular Nordic, or their "HD"?

[John Hearne]

If it's any consolation, we came to a very similar conclusion in the inaugural shotgun instructor's course due to Remington's shortcomings.

Well crap, I'll have to reconsider my position based on its concurrence with yours. :)

[Hambo]

Just back from the Rangemaster Defensive Shotgun Instructor Course. I have reached the conclusion that the best out-of-the-box defensive shotgun is the 1301.

There is something wrong with the universe when the semi-auto shotgun will feed and cycle the cheap birdshot that my 870 will not.

That's 180 degree change from the old days. By any chance, was it steel base ammo that choked the 870?

[John Hearne]

That's 180 degree change from the old days. By any chance, was it steel base ammo that choked the 870?

Yes but it was brand specific. Winchester was nasty, especially if the gun was hot. Fiocchi stuck a little bit. Federal ran fine.

[TCinVA]

Yes but it was brand specific. Winchester was nasty, especially if the gun was hot. Fiocchi stuck a little bit. Federal ran fine.

Interesting. All of my 870's are older guns. My main teaching gun, Humble Pie, is an 870 Express purchased around Y2K. It's been upgraded and most crucially the recent manufacture rifle-sighted Police barrel on it has had the forcing cone opened and the whole thing from chamber to muzzle has been honed. My other 870's are all vintage Wingmasters. I've fired a lot of #4, #6, and #7 Winchester Super X birdshot through my 870's without trouble.

Remington's failure to properly polish at least the chambers on their barrels is disconcerting.

I've seen the same from Mossberg a fair bit, too.

[GearFondler]

Remington's failure to properly polish at least the chambers on their barrels is disconcerting.

I've seen the same from Mossberg a fair bit, too.

Sounds like they're taking a page from KelTec's book... Skip the chamber polish and simply instruct the owner to use high brass only.

[OlongJohnson]

Most guns are sold as an almost-ready-to-use firearm kit. To adapt a line from Carroll Smith, they are shipped assembled because that's the easiest way to fit them compactly in the box and to make sure all the parts are included.

[Gerry Adams]

First time poster, long time reader...

I finally managed to read through a lot of this thread, and whoa... What a wealth of information!

I was hoping to come across one topic but never did. Would anyone happen to know if the longer picatinny rail on the Comp model will fit onto the Tactical? I'm thinking of swapping out the ghostring/ rail so on the longer I can have some more options. But the Comp rail looks like it has a different mount pattern... Anyone know if it will fit, or perhaps another rail that would work?

Thanks!

[delphidoc]

First time poster, long time reader...

I finally managed to read through a lot of this thread, and whoa... What a wealth of information!

I was hoping to come across one topic but never did. Would anyone happen to know if the longer picatinny rail on the Comp model will fit onto the Tactical? I'm thinking of swapping out the ghostring/ rail so on the longer I can have some more options. But the Comp rail looks like it has a different mount pattern... Anyone know if it will fit, or perhaps another rail that would work?

Thanks!


Comp has four screw holes, tach only has two. They don't line up, either.

[LittleLebowski]

Interesting. All of my 870's are older guns. My main teaching gun, Humble Pie, is an 870 Express purchased around Y2K. It's been upgraded and most crucially the recent manufacture rifle-sighted Police barrel on it has had the forcing cone opened and the whole thing from chamber to muzzle has been honed. My other 870's are all vintage Wingmasters. I've fired a lot of #4, #6, and #7 Winchester Super X birdshot through my 870's without trouble.

Remington's failure to properly polish at least the chambers on their barrels is disconcerting.

I've seen the same from Mossberg a fair bit, too.

I love that shotgun.

[UNM1136]

Back when I thought the shottie was going to be my only long gun I sent the barrel of my Mossy 590A1 to AIMPRO Tactical and had the bore honed and polished, forcing cone lengthened, threaded for standard chokes, and magnaported, intending it to be my be-all do-all shotgun.

Very satisfied. It is on its second set of Trijicon sights.

pat

[Gerry Adams]

Comp has four screw holes, tach only has two. They don't line up, either.

Thanks for the info I was hoping they might be milled to the same pattern underneath the sight and rail.

I have an EOtech XPS coming my way, I thought I would just see if it was doable. I guess I could still mount the XPS, but I doubt I'd ever find a set irons to match the reticle.

[HCM]

Thanks for the info I was hoping they might be milled to the same pattern underneath the sight and rail.

I have an EOtech XPS coming my way, I thought I would just see if it was doable. I guess I could still mount the XPS, but I doubt I'd ever find a set irons to match the reticle.

The XPS will be way too high and top heavy.

There are practical reason the Aimpoint Micro, RMR and their Holosun clones are the standard on these guns.

[Gerry Adams]

The XPS will be way too high and top heavy.

There are practical reason the Aimpoint Micro, RMR and their Holosun clones are the standard on these guns.

Too high to use with stock irons for sure, but I think it still could be of use if zeroed properly. I've thought about getting an M2 or S1, but the EOTech is free, and I do like the larger window.

[Balisong]

Too high to use with stock irons for sure, but I think it still could be of use if zeroed properly. I've thought about getting an M2 or S1, but the EOTech is free, and I do like the larger window.

I could be mistaken but I believe I've seen on here it's not just an issue with cowitness, but of heavy optics not being held onto by those mounts under heavy shotgun recoil impulses.

[Gerry Adams]

I could be mistaken but I believe I've seen on here it's not just an issue with cowitness, but of heavy optics not being held onto by those mounts under heavy shotgun recoil impulses.

That I could see. Specially since the 1301 rail isn’t even a true picatinny; not enough pressure being applied across a broader surface area.

[HCM]

Too high to use with stock irons for sure, but I think it still could be of use if zeroed properly. I've thought about getting an M2 or S1, but the EOTech is free, and I do like the larger window.

You're missing the point. Regardless of the irons you wont be able to get anything approximating a proper cheek weld or consistent firing position, even if you swapped to a Magpul SGA stock with risers.

The weight of the optic in relation to the mounting rail and how well the EO-tech will tolerate 12 gauge recoil are also potential issues.

[Gerry Adams]

You're missing the point. Regardless of the irons you wont be able to get anything approximating a proper cheek weld or consistent firing position, even if you swapped to a Magpul SGA stock with risers.

The weight of the optic in relation to the mounting rail and how well the EO-tech will tolerate 12 gauge recoil are also potential issues.

People use RDS/ HWS on handguns and rifles without irons all the time...

[GJM]

I can’t speak to the Eotech, but I used an Aimpoint on my 11-87 at Gunsite’s 260 with no issues. Also have used an Aimpoint on a .375 H&H, .416 Rigby, and .458 Lott without issue. A micro is the only Aimpoint I have ever broken.

Ten to twenty years ago, when the 870 was “the fighting shotgun,” Hans Vang had a piece on why the 870P was superior to a regular 870. I used the Police model, but when making a great 870, went with an older Wingmaster, that was slicker yet than a 870P. The only downside to a Wingmaster, if you want to call it a downside, is they were 2.75 not 3 inch.

Today, for so many reasons, the 1301 has become the Glock 19 of combat shotguns.

[HCM]

People use RDS/ HWS on handguns and rifles without irons all the time...

I know, read what I wrote again.

The XPS will be too high to use effectively on the 1301.

Nothing to do with the irons.

[HCM]

I can’t speak to the Eotech, but I used an Aimpoint on my 11-87 at Gunsite’s 260 with no issues. Also have used an Aimpoint on a .375 H&H, .416 Rigby, and .458 Lott without issue. A micro is the only Aimpoint I have ever broken.

Ten to twenty years ago, when the 870 was “the fighting shotgun,” Hans Vang had a piece on why the 870P was superior to a regular 870. I used the Police model, but when making a great 870, went with an older Wingmaster, that was slicker yet than a 870P. The only downside to a Wingmaster, if you want to call it a downside, is they were 2.75 not 3 inch.

Today, for so many reasons, the 1301 has become the Glock 19 of combat shotguns.

You can low mount 30mm aimpoints.

The XPS is like trying to run a 30mm aimpoint on a conventional stock shotgun with an AR height mount.

[rob_s]

Thanks for the info I was hoping they might be milled to the same pattern underneath the sight and rail.

I have an EOtech XPS coming my way, I thought I would just see if it was doable. I guess I could still mount the XPS, but I doubt I'd ever find a set irons to match the reticle.


The XPS will be way too high and top heavy.

There are practical reason the Aimpoint Micro, RMR and their Holosun clones are the standard on these guns.


Too high to use with stock irons for sure, but I think it still could be of use if zeroed properly. I've thought about getting an M2 or S1, but the EOTech is free, and I do like the larger window.


You're missing the point. Regardless of the irons you wont be able to get anything approximating a proper cheek weld or consistent firing position, even if you swapped to a Magpul SGA stock with risers.

The weight of the optic in relation to the mounting rail and how well the EO-tech will tolerate 12 gauge recoil are also potential issues.


People use RDS/ HWS on handguns and rifles without irons all the time...


I know, read what I wrote again.

The XPS will be too high to use effectively on the 1301.

Nothing to do with the irons.


You can low mount 30mm aimpoints.

The XPS is like trying to run a 30mm aimpoint on a conventional stock shotgun with an AR height mount.

I’m not a 1301 owner yet, but I can’t see something as tall as this from base to centerline of optic being a good choice on a shotgun of any sort, and still expect to get anything close to a checkweld with any stock.

56426

[TCinVA]

I’m not a 1301 owner yet, but I can’t see something as tall as this from base to centerline of optic being a good choice on a shotgun of any sort, and still expect to get anything close to a checkweld with any stock.

56426

I mean, you can put it on there but it's probably going to rip the rail clean off the gun in relatively short order. The SAS uses the EOThing on their Benellis but for specific reasons and the queen pays for their stuff when it breaks.

In addition to a lack of cheek weld and the plethora of issues that brings to the table.

[Balisong]

I mean, you can put it on there but it's probably going to rip the rail clean off the gun in relatively short order. The SAS uses the EOThing on their Benellis but for specific reasons and the queen pays for their stuff when it breaks.

In addition to a lack of cheek weld and the plethora of issues that brings to the table.

Would you care to elaborate on the specific reasons the SAS uses it? Is it night vision related?

[Buckaroo Bonsai]

I am new to this site, but have read through the entire thread over the last few weeks. The knowledge base is awesome.

I am now the proud owner of a brand new Gen 1 1301 Tactical and just received the Nordic extension kit. While I am tempted to jump right in to the installation, I am a little confused about what the end result will be. I could probably figure it out with the parts in my hand, but thought I would go straight to the experts first, before opening the packaging.
If I replace the magazine end nut with the nut for the extension tube, does that mean that I will have to remove the extension in order to remove the hand guard when breaking the gun down for cleaning? That would seem to expose the coil spring every time I cleaned it. I do not recall anyone mentioning anything about that, so maybe I am overlooking something, but that seems like it would be a pretty big issue. I assume that also means that the barrel mount adapter would need to be removed each time as well?

Is this just the price of 2 additional rounds? Is there a work around, or am I missing a critical understanding of something that makes this moot?

[GJM]

I am new to this site, but have read through the entire thread over the last few weeks. The knowledge base is awesome.

I am now the proud owner of a brand new Gen 1 1301 Tactical and just received the Nordic extension kit. While I am tempted to jump right in to the installation, I am a little confused about what the end result will be. I could probably figure it out with the parts in my hand, but thought I would go straight to the experts first, before opening the packaging.
If I replace the magazine end nut with the nut for the extension tube, does that mean that I will have to remove the extension in order to remove the hand guard when breaking the gun down for cleaning? That would seem to expose the coil spring every time I cleaned it. I do not recall anyone mentioning anything about that, so maybe I am overlooking something, but that seems like it would be a pretty big issue. I assume that also means that the barrel mount adapter would need to be removed each time as well?

Is this just the price of 2 additional rounds? Is there a work around, or am I missing a critical understanding of something that makes this moot?

What is this “each time” cleaning you refer to — it is a 1301 and you just shoot it. In any event, removing the extension to pull the barrel is no big deal, but you can pull a bore snake through without removing the barrel.

[Buckaroo Bonsai]

What is this “each time” cleaning you refer to — it is a 1301 and you just shoot it. In any event, removing the extension to pull the barrel is no big deal, but you can pull a bore snake through without removing the barrel.

I guess I am still suffering from new-owner-itis, but I break it down for a thorough cleaning every time the wind blows a different direction. Perhaps the added hassle, albeit minimal, will be sufficient to cure me of this malady.

[CDH]

Nordic extension kit. The cap for the extension has a hole in it. Am I missing something or is this intentional? Thanks. Chris.

[TCinVA]

Nordic extension kit. The cap for the extension has a hole in it. Am I missing something or is this intentional? Thanks. Chris.

Intentional. Most extensions have a hole in them.

[CDH]

10-4. Thanks.

[sigfla]

If anyone sees a gun in stock anywhere please post or send a PM. I have a friend looking and he missed the last round of deliveries at Buds. I swear they had some M4's listed the other day and they were gone in a few minutes. Tac shotguns are like gold right now.

[AOITC589]

Hey all, can anyone please assist me with finding the part number for a replacement piston for 1301 tactical? I foolishly dropped mine, while cleaning it, on the concrete and now it has a tiny ding on the rim that inserts into the cylinder near the metal elastic seal. I don't know if it will impact its function but I'd prefer to just get a new one just in case.
Adding insult to injury, first time using it 🤦

i did a Google search and found these two:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/beretta-1301/piston-assemblies.html

C8A961 seems to be the one, but I'm hesitant because I can't find it on Berettas site and a Google search shows very little for this part number.

Brownells website has a schematic, it's #140, but it's not on the sku list.

Appreciate any help. Thanks! 🍻

[Chuck3006]

I'm new to the forum and just finished reading every last post. Lots of great information. So far I love the way it performs and look forward to taking a class with it.

I have a Gen 1 and have an Aimpoint mounted on the factory aluminum rail. I have read of the problems with the plastic rail and thought I was ok with the aluminum rail but I read a few pages back of them causing problems too. It was suggested that the CROM would be better. I am running the Aridus adapter and Magpul stock and like how it fits now and the lower 1/3 co-witness. Even on my AR's I do not like full c0-witness sights. I really would rather not go to a lower riser on the Magpul stock. So I would like to avoid the CROM if I can.

My question is would there be any problem with drilling an additional couple of holes in the Beretta rail and matching holes in the receiver to beef up the attachment point of the rail to the receiver? I know in the rifle world it was common to replace the factory scope base 6-48 screws with larger 8-40 screws and sometimes add additional screws. If it is not a problem I have a local machine shop that could do the work.

[OlongJohnson]

Might also consider adding steel thread inserts. I've seen those in a few optics. Seems like it should help.

[scapegoat130]

Has anyone had any luck finding a nordic extension for their 1301? I have a kit on order with opticsplanet, but that was placed 2 months ago, with no movement yet. They do say 6-10 months out but I was (perhaps naively) hoping it was an exaggeration.

BTW, thanks for this thread! It's very helpful for newbs like me.

[AOITC589]

Hey all, is it normal for the magazine spring to creak/squeak when loading shells? Sounds like an old screen door opening/closing. 😀

Pulled out spring, looks straight and good condition. Only use it once. Lube'd it and mag tube. Still making same noise.

Just want to make sure it's not something i need to be concerned with.

[TCinVA]

Mag springs in shotguns will make a little noise as you load them. The spring is free to move about the mag tube and will usually bend up against the walls of the mag tube at random places as it goes under tension.

[Claybuster]

Finally got the call from Langdon. Mine should be here next week. Has anyone tried to find buckshot lately. LMFAO :D

[philpac33]

I’ve been checking my inbox and spam several times a day for the past month, hoping to see my Langdon Tactical invoice. Guess I’ll break down and call to see what’s up.

[TCinVA]

I’ve been checking my inbox and spam several times a day for the past month, hoping to see my Langdon Tactical invoice. Guess I’ll break down and call to see what’s up.

Probably filling orders as they can get the supply necessary to do so.

The 1301 comes from Italy. Italy was hit hard by COVID and production of just about everything shut down. That has long term impacts on the supply chain.

Aridus has been busy as hell working on getting the new facility up and running fully, getting a new CNC machine online, and working on back orders.

LTT relies on both to be able to ship their 1301 package, so they're at the mercy of things out of their control.

[GearFondler]

Probably filling orders as they can get the supply necessary to do so.

The 1301 comes from Italy. Italy was hit hard by COVID and production of just about everything shut down. That has long term impacts on the supply chain.

Aridus has been busy as hell working on getting the new facility up and running fully, getting a new CNC machine online, and working on back orders.

LTT relies on both to be able to ship their 1301 package, so they're at the mercy of things out of their control.Also the Nordic Industries parts as well.

[Tom Fineis]

1301 comp with Nordic +2 extension:

Loading 6 or 7 shells into the tube, then pressing the shell release (small tab that puts shell onto lifter to be chambered) doesn't work. It appears the magazine spring is pushing on the stack of shells with too much force to allow the shell latch to let one go. If I put a little inward pressure on the rim of the shell or only load 5 shells it releases one every time.

Anybody else experience this? I'm guessing I could clip some coils off the magazine spring until it lets go reliably, but I thought I'd pop in here first to see if I'm missing something.

[GearFondler]

1301 comp with Nordic +2 extension:

Loading 6 or 7 shells into the tube, then pressing the shell release (small tab that puts shell onto lifter to be chambered) doesn't work. It appears the magazine spring is pushing on the stack of shells with too much force to allow the shell latch to let one go. If I put a little inward pressure on the rim of the shell or only load 5 shells it releases one every time.

Anybody else experience this? I'm guessing I could clip some coils off the magazine spring until it lets go reliably, but I thought I'd pop in here first to see if I'm missing something.Did you install the extension yourself? There are instructions included (and on their website) that instruct you how to measure and cut their spring to fit your particular application. I can assure you that the uncut Nordic spring is far too long as I cut probably 10" off mine but don't use that measurement because my memory sucks... But definitely cut it down if it's hasn't been done yet.
Either way, check their instructions against what your spring currently measures and trim it if necessary... If it's already the correct length you have a different issue.

[Tom Fineis]

Thanks. The original owner (PF member) says it was cut correctly. I did remove the extension at one point and reassemble it, so I'm wondering now if I didn't seat the spring into the follower properly and that's causing too much tension. I will dig into it further. Thanks!

[Andy in NH]

I wasn't happy with the light system I used in post #3512 (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=989548&viewfull=1#post989548), so I recently did this:

Surefire M600U Scout Light (1000 lumens), Surefire Rail Mount Tape Switch Model SRXX, Magpul M-LOK Extended Cantilever Scout Mount, Impact Weapons Components MOUNT-N-SLOT Direct Attach Mount.
(Keep in mind that I'm a left handed shooter.)

Left side:
58333

From the bottom:
58334

Right side:
Switch was mounted to a nine slot section of M1913 rail held to the handguard with M-LOK.
58335

The light sits back from the muzzle ~2". The center of the light to the center of the muzzle is also ~2".
This is the shadow it creates 2' from the wall:
58336

Haven't shot with it yet, but with a little bit of dry fire/handling in the basement I like it better now.
I may need to add some wire ties to the cable to help keep it in place.

[GJM]

1301 comp with Nordic +2 extension:

Loading 6 or 7 shells into the tube, then pressing the shell release (small tab that puts shell onto lifter to be chambered) doesn't work. It appears the magazine spring is pushing on the stack of shells with too much force to allow the shell latch to let one go. If I put a little inward pressure on the rim of the shell or only load 5 shells it releases one every time.

Anybody else experience this? I'm guessing I could clip some coils off the magazine spring until it lets go reliably, but I thought I'd pop in here first to see if I'm missing something.

I thought we discussed this pages ago, happened to me too, and wasn’t resolved with a different follower?

[Buckaroo Bonsai]

Has anyone had any luck finding a nordic extension for their 1301? I have a kit on order with opticsplanet, but that was placed 2 months ago, with no movement yet. They do say 6-10 months out but I was (perhaps naively) hoping it was an exaggeration.

BTW, thanks for this thread! It's very helpful for newbs like me.

Try checking this page frequently. I lucked out and stumbled across some in stock at RifleGear a few weeks back myself. You have to be ready to pounce,they don't last long.
https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/MXT-BR1301TAC-PKG

[L-2]

I thought we discussed this pages ago, happened to me too, and wasn’t resolved with a different follower?

If it's the follower-issue, there was a referral which said go back to Post_3413 and read forward from there, about 7 months back.

[LangdonTactical]

If it's the follower-issue, there was a referral which said go back to Post_3413 and read forward from there, about 7 months back.

I have not seen this on any of the guns. I have seen a few that did not want to load to seven rounds, depending on the exact shells that you use. But I have not come across one that would not drop a shell from the tube when fully loaded.

We just got in two pallets of shotguns, so I will check all of the ones we build over the next week.

[GJM]

My Langdon 1301 only takes six 2.75 rounds. To get the seventh in, I really need to force it the last bit, and it then doesn’t want to release from the tube. I pulled the spring and follower, reinstalled them, with no change. Thoughts?

I experienced this issue back in February or so, and fixed it with the replacement follower recommended in this thread. Now seven go in easily and release as they should.

[SteveB]

I experienced this issue back in February or so, and fixed it with the replacement follower recommended in this thread. Now seven go in easily and release as they should.

While I could get 7 shells into my LTT, the last shell took some effort to load. There were no function problems, but the replacement follower mentioned above eliminated the loading issue.

[CDH]

Just got a notification that Grab-a-Gun has 1301 extension kits in stock

[scapegoat130]

Just got a notification that Grab-a-Gun has 1301 extension kits in stock

Thank you so much! Snagged one and cancelled my opticsplanet order.

[Chuck3006]

It seems that gun parts are getting in short supply. I tried to buy some AR parts today and a couple of G19 locking blocks and have had no luck.

So I thought I might get some spares parts for the 1301. Small pins and springs that can be lost are fairly obvious things to get. Is there anything else that those of you who have been running this gun a long time recommend? Anything that has a tendency to wear out?

[LukeNCMX]

Anyone have any experience with the Briley MLOK Stage Saver adapter and a zhukov handguard? I like the MLOK interface vs drilling for a Matchsaverz/Taccom Stage Saver.


https://www.briley.com/p-61812-stage-saver-adapter.aspx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GearFondler]

Took these crappy phone pics for the LTT thread but thought I'd add them here for future readers and aspiring photographers. [emoji13]
Aridus CROM with Haught Mod rear iron and Holosun 507C.
(Yes, I really like the Haught Mod and think it's the best way to go if using a dot... It keeps the window clear while still allowing the eye to center up the front iron if ever needed.)


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200817/6f9e01966540dd12aa70dc00511011b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200817/c248c18ab9933434ce0eb32202994aa5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200817/039ceee345aa65692540c378fd5ac8ae.jpg

[Flyboytim]

I have the same setup, and the same pictures... It really shows the minimal sight blockage of the 507’s thin framework. This one compares the 507 to the 503. Notice the thicker framework on the 503.

[Chuck3006]

One of the guys on the Gunsite list inquired and I have read no mention of whether it is or not. I tend to think shotguns are not drop safe. My assumption is that the question is referring to a gun with a round in the chamber and safety on.

[Chuck3006]

I have the same setup, and the same pictures... It really shows the minimal sight blockage of the 507’s thin framework. This one compares the 507 to the 503. Notice the thicker framework on the 503.

I just got notice from Aridus yesterday that my CROM with the Haught mod, and set up for the Aimpoint Micro, just shipped. Can't wait to get it on as I don't really trust the attachment of the rail (Beretta aluminum) to the receiver.

The rear aperture mod looks great since GR sights don't work well for me.

The only thing left to do is finalize the Streamlight flashlight (their knock off of the F Scout) install on the right side and install the touch pad on the left.

[Flyboytim]

One of the guys on the Gunsite list inquired and I have read no mention of whether it is or not. I tend to think shotguns are not drop safe. My assumption is that the question is referring to a gun with a round in the chamber and safety on.

Shotguns, including the 1301, are not drop safe with a round chambered and the safety on. This is why a lot of us, myself included, keep their shotguns “Cruiser Ready” with a round either on the lifter (1301) or ready to be cycled into the chamber from the magazine, like with many pump guns. A spare pistol nearby increases readiness... 🤓

[Balisong]

Shotguns, including the 1301, are not drop safe with a round chambered and the safety on. This is why a lot of us, myself included, keep their shotguns “Cruiser Ready” with a round either on the lifter (1301) or ready to be cycled into the chamber from the magazine, like with many pump guns. A spare pistol nearby increases readiness... 🤓

That's a really big pet peeve of mine about shotguns. I'd so much rather push the safety off then have to work the action. Is it really not possible for them to make these things drop safe? Or do they just not bother since everybody "scares away the bad guys by racking a round" anyway?

[Flyboytim]

That's a really big pet peeve of mine about shotguns. I'd so much rather push the safety off then have to work the action. Is it really not possible for them to make these things drop safe? Or do they just not bother since everybody "scares away the bad guys by racking a round" anyway?

Since the “scares away the bad guys by racking a round” always shows up in every “top shotgun myth” list that I’ve ever seen, I believe it is mere tradition and ease of manufacture that motivates shotgun makers to continue making their guns sans a drop safe feature. The firing pins are hidden deep within the bolt, with a wrap around spring to hold them back. That spring tension is all that prevents a drop from potentially forcing the firing pin forward to strike and set off a chambered round’s primer. We’ve lived with this for a long time without serious issues, the occasional accident notwithstanding. I’m 68. My father taught me to unload my hunting shotgun’s chamber prior to crossing fence lines after dove/quail/pheasant, for example. Don’t think it will change anytime soon. That said, I’m equally unsure it is a big issue in a home defense situation. Any long gun is slower to bring into action than any hand gun, all things being equal. Concern for quickness of pointing lethal justice toward a threat, may be assuaged with a hand gun. Time allowing, the long gun can then be pressed into service. At least, that’s my current theory.

I’m also still wondering if anyone has tested the “racking the gun will give away your position” theory. It could be done with an empty gun and a willing “intruder” with sharp ears... Wonder if they would be able to track the “racker” to their position.... 🤔

[TCinVA]

One of the guys on the Gunsite list inquired and I have read no mention of whether it is or not. I tend to think shotguns are not drop safe. My assumption is that the question is referring to a gun with a round in the chamber and safety on.

No long gun is truly drop safe.

The only thing the safety on the 1301 (and just about any other shotgun) does is block rearward movement of the trigger.

Shotguns in particular are a danger because of weight. The typical pump gun is quite heavy. The typical shotgun is a pump gun that hasn't seen armorer's attention in its entire life, meaning the springs that hold the hammer and sear together are probably old and worn, the sear surface is probably fairly worn, etc. Back in the day when shotguns rode up front in quick access brackets those who carried a shotgun in the car with a round in the chamber sometimes ended up with unintentional sunroofs when they hit railroad tracks or jumped a curb at speed.

Hence the almost universal adoption of "cruiser ready", or keeping the shotgun on standby with the tubular magazine loaded but an empty chamber.

For home defense use on a pump gun, I teach hammer down (this ensures the action is unlocked) on an empty chamber via a SAFE dryfire shot, then loading the magazine of the shotgun to desired capacity.

On semi-autos that have a shell cutoff feature (like the 1301) I teach loading the magazine and then using the shell release to leave one on the lifter. This allows simply running the bolt to charge the weapon for use.

One of the biggest problems attendant to the use of the defensive shotgun is getting it into action. Keeping that critical manipulation as simple as possible (run the pump, run the bolt) makes it much more likely people will be able to make it work. Policies do exist that require setting a gun up for "cruiser safe", which involves leaving the action locked and the safety engaged on an empty chamber with the magazine loaded. The typically minimally "trained" police officer who is getting 10 rounds of fam fire per year on the shotgun is not going to be able to get that weapon into action in an emergency.

[TCinVA]

That's a really big pet peeve of mine about shotguns. I'd so much rather push the safety off then have to work the action. Is it really not possible for them to make these things drop safe? Or do they just not bother since everybody "scares away the bad guys by racking a round" anyway?

Pistols are largely drop safe because they have some sort of firing pin block or striker block that isn't disengaged until the last moment of trigger press. It's certainly possible to design a shotgun with that feature, but it would be expensive and would require a complete redesign of the fire control components of the shotgun.

No long gun we commonly use is drop safe. Including the ubiquitous AR. That's why it is best to store one with an empty chamber.

We carry a pistol with a round in the chamber because the pistol is the weapon we use when we didn't know we would need a gun. The assault we are using a pistol to stop is usually fast and close and requires an instant response. Typically when a long gun is involved it's because we know there might be trouble and so we have the opportunity to properly arm ourselves for the occasion. When we pick up the gun we usually have time to charge it.

The "racking a round" thing isn't causal. Long guns are not made drop safe because to this point nobody has specified it as a requirement for the purchase of a long gun.

[John Hearne]

No long gun we commonly use is drop safe. Including the ubiquitous AR. That's why it is best to store one with an empty chamber.

I always thought it interesting that H&K added a firing pin lock when they revamped the AR.

And while the AR may not be absolutely drop safe, it is practically drop safe, especially if you aren't chambering and rechambering the same round.

I'd bet that a dropped 870 would "let go" way more often than an AR. One of the "tweaks" to the police model 870's is an enhanced sear spring to make this less likely.

[Balisong]

And while the AR may not be absolutely drop safe, it is practically drop safe, especially if you aren't chambering and rechambering the same round.


Could you expand on this?

I appreciate everyone's info. It's still crazy to me that nobody else has wanted Ar15s and Shotguns to be drop safe. I get that for most uses there is time to work the action on a long gun. But I would still think being drop safe would preferable. Plus the fact that in order to be safe by having an empty chamber, you have to handicap how much ammo you have in the weapon. I'd also prefer to simply swipe a safety (which is usually very ergonomic) versus working the action because given a choice in a gunfight I'd much rather have the element of surprise.

Anyways, somewhat back to topic, work was too crazy today to get a chance to call LTT, hopefully I can tomorrow. I want one of these bad boys because it has all the mods/accessories I'd want with the push of the easy button.

[That Guy]

And while the AR may not be absolutely drop safe, it is practically drop safe

Isn't that somewhat dependent on what trigger group is in the AR? (I thought the safety certification of the Geissele SSA was due to some other aftermarket trigger group letting the hammer go when the rifle was bouncing around in a truck?)

[TCinVA]

Could you expand on this?

The AR has a floating firing pin. When you chamber a round with one and then eject that round, it is not uncommon to see that the primer has been dimpled. Many military long guns have floating firing pins, hence the practice of using harder primers in military ammunition than in typical civilian ammunition.

The uneducated will often chamber a round, then eject that round and put it right back on top of the magazine. Repeatedly chambering the same round over and over again can certainly produce a primer that is more sensitive to impact and reduce the ability of the system as a whole to tolerate a worst-case scenario drop.

Most often what that practice accomplishes is destruction of the priming compound in the primer, rendering the round inoperative. The act of being forced into the chamber can also lead to burs and dings on the case which can hinder extraction. I never chamber the same round more than twice.



I appreciate everyone's info. It's still crazy to me that nobody else has wanted Ar15s and Shotguns to be drop safe. I get that for most uses there is time to work the action on a long gun. But I would still think being drop safe would preferable.


It seems that handguns get dropped more than long guns. Handguns have to be extracted from a holster with a single hand on the gun and put away with a single hand on the gun, increasing the chances of it being dropped. Long guns tend to have both hands involved in controlling the weapon if it is in shooting shape, or there is a sling there to assist.

The primary vector for long guns going off without a finger on the trigger isn't from being dropped, but rather comes from the trigger hanging on something when they are slung or being manipulated. The weight of a loaded AR or shotgun is typically significantly more than the force it takes for a trigger to be pulled...so if the AR you are slinging hangs the trigger on the corner of a magazine on your chest rig the weight of the gun alone is sufficient to press the trigger. Same with a shotgun.

Long guns tend to live in cases or on racks and so even if they were drop safe it would still be a pretty bad idea to keep one stored with a round in the chamber because of what happens when people start tugging at weapons. There have been a number of people killed when they pulled the barrel of a long gun into their center line in an attempt to pick it up or retrieve it from a case, the trigger has hung up on something, and the gun goes off.

As a result, it doesn't seem like anyone sees a pressing need to redesign the guns for those purposes.

The HK416 John referred to has a firing pin safety in it, but to the best of my knowledge that was necessary to prevent out-of-battery firing episodes under certain conditions.



Plus the fact that in order to be safe by having an empty chamber, you have to handicap how much ammo you have in the weapon. I'd also prefer to simply swipe a safety (which is usually very ergonomic) versus working the action because given a choice in a gunfight I'd much rather have the element of surprise.


If you are in a position to be proactive with a gun in your hand, you've already got it loaded and ready to go. Most home invaders are not picking locks and quietly sneaking into houses. They usually use speed and violence of action to gain entry and spread through the structure. This involves kicking down doors, smashing out windows, etc. Once inside they spread out usually with weapons already drawn. In those circumstances it's unlikely that your working of the weapon's action is going to put you at a meaningful deficit against your attackers.

If you are on a tac team serving a warrant or heading on a high risk call, your gun is already loaded, so the point is moot.

The right practice with a long gun is to chamber a round the second you pick it up for serious use. If there is any part of you that thinks you may need the weapon, you get it ready to go. To quote Tom Givens, don't go looking for trouble unless you expect to find it.

[TCinVA]

Isn't that somewhat dependent on what trigger group is in the AR?

Indeed.

An un-fucked-with milspec trigger is probably going to be OK if it hasn't been beat to shit.

But people do as much dumb shit to AR triggers as they do to Glock triggers. I have "milspec" and Geissele triggers in my guns but I still don't regard them as drop safe.

[GearFondler]

Plus the fact that in order to be safe by having an empty chamber, you have to handicap how much ammo you have in the weapon. I'd also prefer to simply swipe a safety (which is usually very ergonomic) versus working the action because given a choice in a gunfight I'd much rather have the element of surprise.


With the 1301 you can load a full 7 (or 5 w/o the extension) and then load one more onto the lifter, giving you 8 rounds with an empty chamber. It's a bit fiddly to do it (it's much easier with an M4) and I advise practicing with dummy rounds first, but it's not bad once you get the knack of it.
And it's equally possible to do a full ghost load of 7+1+1 but that's Mall-Ninja-stupid as it leaves one in the chamber with a cocked hammer.
To be safe you'll still need to rely on running the bolt first but you don't have to give up a round to do it.

[nalesq]

And while the AR may not be absolutely drop safe, it is practically drop safe...

This has been my experience as well. I understand why ARs aren’t considered technically “drop safe.” But operationally, I saw numerous loaded M16/M4 weapons dropped and even blown out of vehicles and helicopters. None of them “went off” as a result.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Doc_Glock]

Could you expand on this?


https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?41831-AR-drop-safety-discussion

[Flyboytim]

Since we’re on the subject of quickly getting our 1301’s into action, has anyone purchased this under bed gun safe, or something similar, perhaps better?

https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/hidden-gun-safes/fast-box/

I’ve been considering it for my 1301... 🤔

[John Hearne]

Could you expand on this?

On a standard AR, the sear is part of the trigger. The trigger's movement is blocked by the safety so the sear's movement is blocked by the safety. With in-spec parts, firing on drops won't be tied to the sear giving way. This is in direct contrast to the 870 where the mechanical safety only prevents trigger movement and does not tie directly to the sear.

As already noted, the firing pin in the stock AR/M-16 is free floating. If you have sensitive (non Mil-Spec) or high primers and some incredibly bad luck, it is conceivable to have an ND on drop - or more specifically, dropping the bolt. I put it in the same range as winning the lottery - sure it can happen but the odds don't make it likely.

All bets are off if you start modifying the stock parts or using after market triggers. Some aftermarket triggers, such as the Geissele SSA specifically mention "The SSA is safety certified by Crane Naval Surface Warfare Center."

[That Guy]

Some aftermarket triggers, such as the Geissele SSA specifically mention "The SSA is safety certified by Crane Naval Surface Warfare Center."

What other triggers are safety certified? I've only ever heard of Geissele triggers having that certification.

[SouthNarc]

I prefer to keep my shillelagh of doom slick and minimalist. Surefire Mini-Scout Pro 300 direct mounted to the Zhukov hand-guard and a Brown Coat Tactical 2 round card on the receiver keeps the gun slick and maneuverable.

[BobLoblaw]

I prefer to keep my shillelagh of doom slick and minimalist. Surefire Mini-Scout Pro 300 direct mounted to the Zhukov hand-guard and a Brown Coat Tactical 2 round card on the receiver keeps the gun slick and maneuverable.

Did you stipple the hand guard?

[Lon]

I prefer to keep my shillelagh of doom slick and minimalist. Surefire Mini-Scout Pro 300 direct mounted to the Zhukov hand-guard and a Brown Coat Tactical 2 round card on the receiver keeps the gun slick and maneuverable.

Nice setup.

[SouthNarc]

Did you stipple the hand guard?

Ben at Boresight Solutions did and said he'd never do another because it was a total pain in the ass.

[whomever]

Since we’re on the subject of quickly getting our 1301’s into action, has anyone purchased this under bed gun safe, or something similar, perhaps better?

https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/hidden-gun-safes/fast-box/

I’ve been considering it for my 1301... 🤔

We've been happy with an AMSEC DV652

[GearFondler]

Ben at Boresight Solutions did and said he'd never do another because it was a total pain in the ass.I can attest to that. I stippled my own and the plastic Magpul used for the forend is very difficult to properly stipple... There's fiberglass or something similar in it which wants to just burn rather than reform itself.

[Inkwell 41]

“shillelagh of doom”

[GJM]

My wife and I walked into a Scheel’s in Billing’s tonight, with a friend and PF member. Saw a 1301T Gen 2 on the shelf new for $1,139. I told him to buy it or I would. He did. Another shotguner enters the fold!

[Chuck Whitlock]

TC and John are spot on.

I think the only shotgun that was possibly drop safe was the Mossberg 590DA1, which sported a DA trigger. They were not popular and have been discontinued, but I liked the one I bought for my little agency where I was chief. I purchased it with the idea in mind that I might have to dump the loaded gun and go hands-on with a suspect. If I ever come across one for sale I will snap it up if I have funds available.

I never really opened it up and inspected its guts, but I recall that Tom Jones is a fan, and may well have done so.

A couple of pics:

https://www.gunsamerica.com/920943026/NIB-Mossberg-590DA1-Double-Action.htm

https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Mossberg-590DA1-What-can-you-guys-tell-me-about-it-/1-484852/

[Flyboytim]

We've been happy with an AMSEC DV652

Thanks much, I’ll check that one out...👍

[314159]

Being a fan of anything double action only and oddball designs, I bought a 590DA when they first came out.

Totally worked as far as shooting went.

Then it quit shooting.

Enough with the clever punctuation. The DA pull was controllable and I liked everything about this design. After a pretty low round count of low recoil buckshot (less than a 200, I still don't keep a strict logbook, sorry) the hammer would occasionally not release at the end of the trigger stroke. I lost interest quickly at that point. My suspicion is I wasn't the only shooter with this problem and that's why it disappeared so quickly. Since that time I've migrated to semi-auto designs that will work with the low recoil stuff. Might I recommend a Browning Auto 5 set for low or even a 1301?

[philpac33]

I’m preparing to add a sling to my LTT 1301. I’m going to use a Magpul MS3 that I already have. It has QD on one end and their Paraclip on the other; it can convert to a single point as an option. I’m going to use a QD mount in one of the MLOK slots on the handguard, undecided on the rear. I’m leaning towards keeping the Paraclip on there which will require me to add something like the Magpul SGA. Does the LTT 1301 use the Remington 870 stock or the Mossberg 590?

[GearFondler]

I’m preparing to add a sling to my LTT 1301. I’m going to use a Magpul MS3 that I already have. It has QD on one end and their Paraclip on the other; it can convert to a single point as an option. I’m going to use a QD mount in one of the MLOK slots on the handguard, undecided on the rear. I’m leaning towards keeping the Paraclip on there which will require me to add something like the Magpul SGA. Does the LTT 1301 use the Remington 870 stock or the Mossberg 590?

Mossberg

[GyroF-16]

I’m looking at putting a sling on my 1301T w/ Magpul stock and forend. The MLOK slots are already occupied with a light and pressure switch.
I see the obvious sling loop in the Magpul stock. Who’s found a good solution for attaching the sling somewhere forward of the receiver?

[dfeder530]

I’m looking at putting a sling on my 1301T w/ Magpul stock and forend. The MLOK slots are already occupied with a light and pressure switch.
I see the obvious sling loop in the Magpul stock. Who’s found a good solution for attaching the sling somewhere forward of the receiver?

I use IWC QD mount n slot cup in the Zhukov's half MLOK slot just in front of the receiver. There's also the Nordic Components barrel clamp with a QD cup or the Briley mag tube extension with sling swivel mount.

https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-barrel-clamp/
https://www.briley.com/p-52254-briley-shotgun-magazine-extension-12-gauge-fits-beretta-auto-benelli-pump-franchi-912-variomax-stoeger.aspx

[GyroF-16]

I use IWC QD mount n slot cup in the Zhukov's half MLOK slot just in front of the receiver. There's also the Nordic Components barrel clamp with a QD cup or the Briley mag tube extension with sling swivel mount.

https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-barrel-clamp/
https://www.briley.com/p-52254-briley-shotgun-magazine-extension-12-gauge-fits-beretta-auto-benelli-pump-franchi-912-variomax-stoeger.aspx

Thanks!
I’ve ordered one of the IWC QD mounts. I’ll look forward to putting it on and trying it out.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

I use IWC QD mount n slot cup in the Zhukov's half MLOK slot just in front of the receiver. There's also the Nordic Components barrel clamp with a QD cup or the Briley mag tube extension with sling swivel mount.

https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-barrel-clamp/
https://www.briley.com/p-52254-briley-shotgun-magazine-extension-12-gauge-fits-beretta-auto-benelli-pump-franchi-912-variomax-stoeger.aspx

Mi amigo Gyro has this sorted out but the Nordic is also a solid choice as I've used one on my 1301T for 3-4 yrs. w/ out issues & about to add one to my Hayes Benelli game gun.

[scapegoat130]

I just got a notification that nordic extensions are back in stock at various places. I haven't used ordered from any of them before, so you might want to check out their site reviews first: https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/816696021447

[Gerry Adams]

So I finally installed the Aridus Zhukov on my 1301. Great feel and seems pretty solid. But I notice one thing that I hadn't before. When racking the bolt, I notice the carrier assembly 'rods'(For lack of a more knowledgeable term) rubs against the Aridus adapter-tabs on either side when pulled back. They don't seem to impede or rub hard against it, but you can hear them slide slightly against it. I haven't had to shoot it with the new forfend installed, but does anyone know if this will hamper the operation of assembly? Is this normal?

[philpac33]

Thanks for the links dfeder530, I was looking for a single nut MLOK sling mount that would fit in that half slot forward of the receiver. I mounted a light on the left side and my final task was to set up my sling. I decided to use my MS3 with QD front and rear so I included a Magpul MLOK QD sling mount and another QD sling swivel to snap into the Paraclip. I ran into 2 problems: the standard 2-nut sling mount doesn’t fit where I want it and I need to order a Magpul sling mount kit type 1 to utilize QD on the Magpul SGA stock. Having to order more stuff to utilize QD in the stock is annoying but I guess I should’ve known so I could save on shipping. A Google image search turned up the perfect sling mount, a Low Profile MLOK QD swivel from Griffin Armament; problem is that it’s discontinued and unavailable. I was searching for an alternative when I read about the IWC offering. Now I just need to get the debit card out and get that stuff on it’s way.

[Leezard]

I've been reading through quite a bit of this thread, but still having a hard time wrapping my head around what needs to be done to extend the mag capacity of a 1301T while remaining 922c compliant.

Looks like the Langdon LTT 1301 achieves this with:
1)MagPul Zhukov Handguard
2)MagPul Stock/Aridus Industries Stock Adapter
3)Nordic Components Enhanced Magazine Tube Follower

But that doesn't jive with the table and comments below. Is Langdon doing something else that I'm missing, or if I change out those parts on my own am I good to go?


So even if you do the Aridus buttstock and Zhukov forend conversion, and add a Nordic follower, you won't get there. Maybe if there was a US-made copy of the magazine tube or something, but there's been no discussion I've seen of such a thing yet.




Looking at OlongJohnson 's excellent post, my read is that with the Aridus buttstock, Zhukov forend conversion, Nordic follower, and a US made choke, the new 1301 would meet the 10-part 922r limitation? Anyone able to check my math?

EDIT. Nope. This isn't right. I missed the fact that the list didn't include the choke in the count. Dammit.

Looks like I'll be waiting for someone to bring out a US made mag tube or something like that.





Note: I am not a lawyer, and I have never been qualified to testify as a firearms expert. However, I'm better than average at reading and writing English and have studied the questions I discuss here extensively for my own purposes. This post is merely me sharing my findings as I understand them. This post is in no way legal advice. Do your own research and consult your own attorney if you care to before acting.

I've generally advocated a strict interpretation of 922(r) compliance when the question has come up in this thread. I've pretty much covered my opinions on that elsewhere. Here's the language, as I've sourced it, for those who haven't read it lately:



There are a couple other documents in the chain, but at the end of the day, the BATFE has decided that a semiautomatic shotgun with a magazine capacity (even tubular mag) of more than five rounds is not "particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes." Some may argue that, but we're stuck with it until Congress and the President do something about it.

All this matters, because I'd really like to add a couple rounds of capacity to the mag tube and maybe get a place to mount some Pic rail and/or a sling on a 1301T without performing an act that many people understand to violate the Federal law above.

The rest of this post is just nuts and bolts of it, as well as an option I recently discovered that I believe is the first commercially available solution to get the "parts count" to ten or lower, thereby allowing the legal installation of a mag extension.

The following table is my assessment of the Beretta 1301 Tactical's parts count versus the list that is relevant to 922(r). The columns are:

The way it comes.
Briley match trigger plus Nordic follower.
Aridus current and future stuff plus Nordic follower.
A letter posted earlier in this thread from the ATF (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=681662&viewfull=1#post681662), with what I believe to be errors highlighted (explained in the comments below the table).



922(r) Parts List OEM A B ATF letter posted on P-F (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=681662&viewfull=1#post681662) Note
1 Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings 1 1 1 1
2 Barrels 1 1 1 1
3 Barrel extensions 1 1 1 X a
4 Mounting blocks (trunions)
5 Muzzle attachments f
6 Bolts 1 1 1 1
7 Bolt carriers 1 1 1 1
8 Operating rods e
9 Gas pistons 1 1 1 X b
10 Trigger housings 1 1 1 1
11 Triggers 1 Briley 1 1
12 Hammers 1 Briley 1 1
13 Sears c
14 Disconnectors 1 Briley 1 1 d
15 Buttstocks 1 1 Aridus 1
16 Pistol grips
17 Forearms, handguards 1 1 Aridus 1
18 Magazine bodies 1 1 1 1
19 Followers 1 Nordic Nordic 1
20 Floorplates

Sum: 14 10 11 12


(Sweet, that table thing worked...)

Notes:

Stainless barrel extension is exactly analogous to the part called a "barrel extension" on an AR-15. Beretta exploded parts view shows it as a separate piece that is threaded on. It may be sold as a unit with the barrel, but AR-15 barrels are sold that way, too.

It is inarguable that there is a gas piston in the gun. Beretta exploded parts view on Brownell's calls it that.

The 1301 trigger is similar to the AR-15 trigger. The "sear" feature that hooks and releases the hammer is integral to the trigger, so cannot be counted as a separate part.

There is a part that operates exactly as the "disconnector" in the AR-15 trigger system.

Welded to bolt carrier, making them one part.

Note that on the Comp and the new version Tactical launched at SHOT, unless the chokes are sourced from a US supplier, they will add a count on this line. Fortunately, it's not hard to replace them with US chokes, or add an Aridus Magpul buttstock conversion.


So even if you do the Aridus buttstock and Zhukov forend conversion, and add a Nordic follower, you won't get there. Maybe if there was a US-made copy of the magazine tube or something, but there's been no discussion I've seen of such a thing yet.

I've presumed the use of the Nordic follower because it's generally reported to work well and is affordable and readily available.

So, what's all this about Briley? A couple years ago, I hit up all the usual suspects for triggers and none of them indicated any interest in the 1301. Then, a few weeks back, someone in this thread mentioned the idea of sending their barrel to Briley to get it machined for chokes. I went to their web site to learn more, and realized they are about 20 minutes from my office in Houston. They have a match trigger for the A400. If you go to the linked page, you'll see one note all the way at the bottom that it also works with the 1301. All the parts are made here in Houston, Texas, USA. So that gets you down to 11. Add the Nordic follower or the Aridus/Magpul buttstock, and you're under the wire.

The trigger is adjustable, so it can be set up to match the original pull weight of the 1301T, in spite of being a "match" trigger. It's an all-or-nothing deal; all three parts are required for the system. You have to deliver your trigger group to them (ship it or drop it off if you're local). Turnaround is about two weeks. They fit the parts and test fire it, and they may even do a little bit of deburring on the sharp edges of the lifter. It's not inexpensive, but it's less than an hour of a really good lawyer's time.

http://www.briley.com/p-58887-beretta-a400-xplor-xcel-xtreme-unico-will-not-fit-391-xtrema-match-triggers.aspx

23790
(Grabbed Briley's image, but I figure this wholly positive discussion of it falls under "fair use.")

My trigger finger is under medical care at the moment, so I can't comment on performance or feel, but the parts do look nice. The trigger has the yellow-orange color of TiN, fairly close to the CAD rendering in the image above.

Have fun with your guns.

[matto]

I've been reading through quite a bit of this thread, but still having a hard time wrapping my head around what needs to be done to extend the mag capacity of a 1301T while remaining 922c compliant.

Looks like the Langdon LTT 1301 achieves this with:
1)MagPul Zhukov Handguard
2)MagPul Stock/Aridus Industries Stock Adapter
3)Nordic Components Enhanced Magazine Tube Follower

But that doesn't jive with the table and comments below. Is Langdon doing something else that I'm missing, or if I change out those parts on my own am I good to go?

Langdon commented on this here. I guess it only has 10 parts to begin with?
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?37936-LTT-1301-HAWT!&p=921403&viewfull=1#post921403

Honestly this whole thing makes me not want the extension tube. If it were for a competition gun it would be fine. I don't expect federal agents to show up and ask me to start counting parts on my gun. But for home defense it's a different story. If I should ever need to use it, I don't want it to be with a gun that I'm "pretty sure" isn't in violation of federal laws. Sigh.

5 in the tube + 1 ghost loaded isn't too bad. But man, what a shame because of a stupid law.

[Mike Belkin]

I think I found the answer.
QUOTE=LangdonTactical;921403]Because according to the letter from the ATF in my file cabinet, the 1301 Tactical and 1301 Comp only have 13 parts total. One of those parts is the magazine follower according to them. We are only using 10 imported parts by their count to build this shotgun.

Hope that clears things up.[/QUOTE]

[Mike Belkin]

Thanks, Matto. We must have been posting at the same time.

Staying compliant in the current climate seems wise.

[matto]

Thanks, Matto. We must have been posting at the same time.


I assume the Gen 2 choke counts? And it needs to be replaced with a US-made choke?

[OlongJohnson]

I assume the Gen 2 choke counts? And it needs to be replaced with a US-made choke?

That could explain the +1 count difference between Mr. Langdon's letter on file and the list of 12 parts posted previously. In the event that you were happy with that letter, the buttstock, forend and follower would get you down to 10, so Italian chokes would be OK.

[matto]

Actually, yeah you're probably right. Langdon mentions the 1301 comp in his post as also having only 13 parts. Didn't that always have a removable choke?

He also sells the gen 2 Tactical and doesn't mention replacing the choke.

[Crusader8207]

Beretta 1301T with Mesa Tactical LEO adapter along with his little brother, TAC13 with Mesa Tactical LEO adapter and SB pistol brace



60571

[dfeder530]

Beretta 1301T with Mesa Tactical LEO adapter along with his little brother, TAC13 with Mesa Tactical LEO adapter and SB pistol brace



60571

How do you like the LEO adapter? Can you possibly give a comparison to the Mesa Tactical Urbino stock? For some reason I really like pistol grip stocked shotguns and haven't seen any feedback on how this stock adapter works. I'm also starting to wonder if you can add a folding stock with a Law folder or picatinny adapter to the buffer tube threads... because why not?

[Crusader8207]

How do you like the LEO adapter? Can you possibly give a comparison to the Mesa Tactical Urbino stock? For some reason I really like pistol grip stocked shotguns and haven't seen any feedback on how this stock adapter works. I'm also starting to wonder if you can add a folding stock with a Law folder or picatinny adapter to the buffer tube threads... because why not?

I can actually. I have been using the Mesa Tactical products for a while. I have an 870 that I have used both the LEO adapter as well as the Urbino and before running the Aridus/Magpull stock I had an Urbino on the 1301. I too prefer a pistol grip shotgun as opposed to a regular stock as I feel I have more control of the shotgun. The biggest advantage of the LEO adapter is that it is very simple to adjust LOP depending on if you are wearing body armor or not. The Urbino does not have the adjustments except for slimmer butt pads and an adjustable cheek riser. I like the Urbino but find it to be a little cumbersome compared to the LEO adapter. The Magpul you can add or remove spacers, but it's not something you can do on the fly. The other thing I have and like with the LEO adapter is the hydraulic buffer tube as it acts like a shock absorber reducing recoil. In regards to the Law Folder, I don't see why it wouldn't work. It would add a little extra length to the stock but being able to adjust it, it shouldn't be a problem. I do not have any experience with the picatinny adapters, so I can not offer up an opinion.

Mike

[dfeder530]

I can actually. I have been using the Mesa Tactical products for a while. I have an 870 that I have used both the LEO adapter as well as the Urbino and before running the Aridus/Magpull stock I had an Urbino on the 1301. I too prefer a pistol grip shotgun as opposed to a regular stock as I feel I have more control of the shotgun. The biggest advantage of the LEO adapter is that it is very simple to adjust LOP depending on if you are wearing body armor or not. The Urbino does not have the adjustments except for slimmer butt pads and an adjustable cheek riser. I like the Urbino but find it to be a little cumbersome compared to the LEO adapter. The Magpul you can add or remove spacers, but it's not something you can do on the fly. The other thing I have and like with the LEO adapter is the hydraulic buffer tube as it acts like a shock absorber reducing recoil. In regards to the Law Folder, I don't see why it wouldn't work. It would add a little extra length to the stock but being able to adjust it, it shouldn't be a problem. I do not have any experience with the picatinny adapters, so I can not offer up an opinion.

Mike


Thanks for your reply. My experience with the Urbino has been good. I agree with the more greater level of control with a pistol grip stock, especially when rotating the gun to reload. The Urbino grip is my biggest complaint since it's gigantic compared to the size of AR grip I'm used to and the LEO adapter would fix that.

It looks like you have a CROM on the 1301. Have you found the cheek height to work with the LEO adapter and the red dot height?

I also think the BTFA folding stock adapter could be my best bet to try out a folding stock on the 1301. Once I get some funds freed up I'll try the new stock setup!

[Crusader8207]

Thanks for your reply. My experience with the Urbino has been good. I agree with the more greater level of control with a pistol grip stock, especially when rotating the gun to reload. The Urbino grip is my biggest complaint since it's gigantic compared to the size of AR grip I'm used to and the LEO adapter would fix that.

It looks like you have a CROM on the 1301. Have you found the cheek height to work with the LEO adapter and the red dot height?

I also think the BTFA folding stock adapter could be my best bet to try out a folding stock on the 1301. Once I get some funds freed up I'll try the new stock setup!

I do have the CROM and can give you a full report tomorrow after I take it to the range. With that being said, I have a bore sighter and have lined up POA/POI and the cheek weld seems spot on. I'm looking forward to range day tomorrow.

[TXBK]

28” A400 next to a 1301 with Salvo12 (8” config)
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I haven’t even fired the 1301 yet, but have shot dove with the A400 and Salvo. It definitely required some learning, but wasn’t too bad. Still need to decide which firearm to rob an Aimpoint from, since I haven’t found a suitable H1/H2 second-hand yet.

[Crusader8207]

@ dfeder530 I went to the range today with both guns. Ran some Hornady TAP 8 pellet low recoil through both as well as Hornady Critical Defense 8 pellet 1600 ft/s. The Tac13 wouldn't spit out the TAP shells but did fine with the Critical Defense. The 1301 ate everything I fed to it. I really liked the Mesa stock, the hydraulic buffer tube absorbed the shock nicely. The cheek weld put my eye right in line with the Holosun red dot on the CROM. Very happy with the setup.

[314159]

I would like to place a wood stocks on my 1301 Competition model (12 ga.).

I believe the 1301 shares a common structure with the A400, correct? Does anyone know which is the A400 model that would have a compatible fore-end with the 1301 Competition? I found a butt stock that works on Ebay of all places. There seem to be several variants of the A400 and Beretta stocks are not cheap! I want to get this right the first time.

[OlongJohnson]

I'd start looking for one that uses this part:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C5F172

Or you might need to change to the standard A400 mag tube and lose a round of capacity:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C5E596

I mocked up an A400 Lite 28-in barrel on my 1301 last weekend, and it needs the spacer (as e_stern indicated it would) because the mag tube and forend are longer. Maybe Erik can come in here and straighten this out.

[Chuck Whitlock]

I would like to place a wood stocks on my 1301 Competition model (12 ga.).

I believe the 1301 shares a common structure with the A400, correct? Does anyone know which is the A400 model that would have a compatible fore-end with the 1301 Competition? I found a butt stock that works on Ebay of all places. There seem to be several variants of the A400 and Beretta stocks are not cheap! I want to get this right the first time.

Using the Aridus adapter should let you use any Mossberg stock.

[314159]

That sounds like a pretty good solution. I actually have a wood A400 butt stock already, it's the fore-end compatibility with a Competition 1301 I was curious about. There sure seems to be a lot of marketing names for the A400s; to the point I am nervous about springing for one without being better informed. Thanks anyway.

[Cory]

That sounds like a pretty good solution. I actually have a wood A400 butt stock already, it's the fore-end compatibility with a Competition 1301 I was curious about. There sure seems to be a lot of marketing names for the A400s; to the point I am nervous about springing for one without being better informed. Thanks anyway.

I really hope you find what works, because a wood stock 1301 is something I really want to see pictures of. A 1301 tac would be awesome to see wood stocked, but a 1301 comp would be cool too.

[Welder]

I can just now confirm that the first generation 1301 Tactical loaded with #1 FC buck is good enough for a motionless groundhog at 5 yards. :p

[GearFondler]

I can just now confirm that the first generation 1301 Tactical loaded with #1 FC buck is good enough for a motionless groundhog at 5 yards. :pDamn... Was anything left besides the smear?

[GyroF-16]

Damn... Was anything left besides the smear?

I’m guessing there was a .73” hole in said groundhog, since the shot would still all be in the FliteControl cup.
But I’m sure it was a decisive kill.

[GearFondler]

I’m guessing there was a .73” hole in said groundhog, since the shot would still all be in the FliteControl cup.
But I’m sure it was a decisive kill.Groundhog becomes Groundhole [emoji38]

[Welder]

Damn... Was anything left besides the smear?

Well, you might be surprised, those are pretty tough little creatures. Very dead in this case, but tough. It took it in the head / neck because it was down on all fours facing me, and there was no exit wound. Literally blew it backwards and onto it's back. I took an extra slow step around my shop because I had the barrel canted in such a way that the sights were on him but I was pretty sure the charge would've taken a chunk out of my shop LOL.

The interwebz says groundhogs weigh between 5 and 15 lbs, but unless they're a baby, they all feel like 15-20 to me, and this one was no different. I do kinda wish I had my earplugs in at the time.

ETA this is the first one I've killed with a shotgun, normally I use a .22 or a .25-06. Of the three, the .25-06 is quite a bit more destructive if no more decisive.

[GearFondler]

I do kinda wish I had my earplugs in at the time.


HUH!? WHAT DID YOU SAY?

[AP1]

First post!

Recently picked up a new 1301 Tactical (Gen 2 with the revised bolt release). First trip to the range she ate ~75 rounds of mixed bird and buckshot with zero malfunctions. The bolt locked back on the last round as designed every single time. As the shooting session rolled on I noticed the bolt release lever became harder and harder to depress. After about 50 rounds I had to pull the charging handle back while simultaneously pushing the bolt release lever to get the bolt to close. I chalked this up to the gun being new and needing to be broken in (it was pretty well oiled from the factory). After the last round of the day the bolt locked back as normal, and the shotgun went back in its case. After getting it home I pulled it out to give it a quick cleaning but the bolt wouldnt close. It wouldnt even when pulling the charging handle back a little to relieve pressure from the bolt release. A quick google search didn't find anything so here I am. I tried calling Beretta this morning but they are closed due to inclement weather apparently.

Any ideas what happen here? I'm hoping there is something stupid and obvious I am missing!

I had the same issue happen last weekend. I baught my 1301 tactical a few months ago. Assuming its a gen 2 since I just got it? I fired it once before with no issues. Took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly after. Went shooting with it again a week ago, and noticed the bolt would get stuck open after firing the last shell, and the release button wouldn't work to close it and allow me to re load. But when I pulled back on the handle a bit, I could get it to release and close. My dad and I fired 3 boxes of bird shot each, and on my dad's 3rd box it stuck open and I couldn't get it to close again. Not sure what the issue was. But I pulled out the barrel and cleaned that, and had to knock out the pin holding the trigger assembly in to get the bolt to release and close. I cleaned out the inside and noticed wear marks in a few areas. I wanted to post pics to see if these are issues I need to be concerned about, or if they are natural occuring wear. Was planning to re assemble and test fire tomorrow morning, unless you guys think I shouldn't based on the pics. If I can figure out how to even post pics on here...

[Duelist]

I had the same issue happen last weekend. I baught my 1301 tactical a few months ago. Assuming its a gen 2 since I just got it? I fired it once before with no issues. Took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly after. Went shooting with it again a week ago, and noticed the bolt would get stuck open after firing the last shell, and the release button wouldn't work to close it and allow me to re load. But when I pulled back on the handle a bit, I could get it to release and close. My dad and I fired 3 boxes of bird shot each, and on my dad's 3rd box it stuck open and I couldn't get it to close again. Not sure what the issue was. But I pulled out the barrel and cleaned that, and had to knock out the pin holding the trigger assembly in to get the bolt to release and close. I cleaned out the inside and noticed wear marks in a few areas. I wanted to post pics to see if these are issues I need to be concerned about, or if they are natural occuring wear. Was planning to re assemble and test fire tomorrow morning, unless you guys think I shouldn't based on the pics. If I can figure out how to even post pics on here...

Posting pics is very easy: you don’t need a file sharing service, you can post them directly.

Once you click on “reply to thread” to start your response post, you will see a selection of icons above the text box where you type. On the second, or middle, row of icons, there is a group of five with a tiny world with several chain links superimposed on it on the left side, and what might resemble a piece of movie film on the right. Next to the film icon is another icon with four tiny black squares in the corners and a very blurry tree in the middle. That is the pictures icon.

Select the pictures icon, and you will get a pop-up that says “insert image” with two tabs labeled “computer” and “URL”. Select the tab you need - I always use the computer - then select the “Choose file” button. Selecting that allows you to browse your computer and select your picture. You may need to choose a smaller file size, depending on how large the original picture file is. If you do that, the system will compress your image a bit and load faster. Once you have selected the picture, there is a button that says “upload file(s)”. Select that, then wait a bit while it loads. Once the pop-up goes away, there will be text in your message box. Don’t mess with it - that’s the code for your picture file - but you can type your message before or after the code, and even upload more pictures to the same message.

When you are done writing the message, just post as normal. Easy!

[dfeder530]

Crusader8207

Thought I'd mess around and see how to make the 1301 a little more compact. Mesa Tactical LEO Gen 2 adapter with an SB Tactical BTFA folding adapter.

Haven't had time to shoot it yet, but it's been a fun little experiment putting it together. The AR15 buffer tube and BTFA folding adapter interface lacks an anti-rotation tab that the AR platform has with the end plate. If I can figure out a way to prevent rotation of the buffer tube this might turn out really well. Right now the only option is cranking the castle nut down and hoping the stock doesn't get knocked hard enough to move it. Otherwise, it puts the stock just out of the way for the shotgun to cycle and not interfere with the bolt release.

6138461385

[Crusader8207]

That looks awesome. Could you stake the castle nut to prevent rotation, or maybe drill and tap a hole then run a set screw in there?


Crusader8207

Thought I'd mess around and see how to make the 1301 a little more compact. Mesa Tactical LEO Gen 2 adapter with an SB Tactical BTFA folding adapter.

Haven't had time to shoot it yet, but it's been a fun little experiment putting it together. The AR15 buffer tube and BTFA folding adapter interface lacks an anti-rotation tab that the AR platform has with the end plate. If I can figure out a way to prevent rotation of the buffer tube this might turn out really well. Right now the only option is cranking the castle nut down and hoping the stock doesn't get knocked hard enough to move it. Otherwise, it puts the stock just out of the way for the shotgun to cycle and not interfere with the bolt release.

6138461385

[dfeder530]

That looks awesome. Could you stake the castle nut to prevent rotation, or maybe drill and tap a hole then run a set screw in there?

Thanks, I really like how it turned out but I'd feel way better once it's more secured!

I don't know if staking the castle nut would work. I'm not an engineer but I think the buffer tube could potentially unscrew even with staking since it would just rotate within the adapter threads and the locked in castle nut. I think the set screw would be a more secure option, I just need to figure out if I can do that myself. Will update again after I try it.

[Crusader8207]

Awesome. Look forward to see your solution and hear how it shoots for you.


Thanks, I really like how it turned out but I'd feel way better once it's more secured!

I don't know if staking the castle nut would work. I'm not an engineer but I think the buffer tube could potentially unscrew even with staking since it would just rotate within the adapter threads and the locked in castle nut. I think the set screw would be a more secure option, I just need to figure out if I can do that myself. Will update again after I try it.

[Coyotesfan97]

HUH!? WHAT DID YOU SAY?


https://youtu.be/GEkJCZvPkHQ

[Super77]

Speaking of stocks, what’s the ideal length of pull on these for like an average sized dude?

Also, anyone know how long the receiver is?

[dfeder530]

Crusader8207

Drilled and tapped a set screw to capture the buffer tube within the BTFA adapter threads similar to how the AR15 end plate works. First time doing it and it went super smooth. Got all the parts through McMaster Carr to get the exact specs on the drill, tap, and set screws. Drilled the hole with a hand drill then tapped the threads using pliers holding the end of the tap. Just noting that to say how easy it was with minimal tools. I secured the set screw using Loctite 243 since it is a through hole and can fall into the buffer tube if screwed in all the way.

I plan on shooting it tomorrow to see how it holds up.

614636146461465

[Crusader8207]

Nice job!! Love it. Glad it was easy to do.


Crusader8207

Drilled and tapped a set screw to capture the buffer tube within the BTFA adapter threads similar to how the AR15 end plate works. First time doing it and it went super smooth. Got all the parts through McMaster Carr to get the exact specs on the drill, tap, and set screws. Drilled the hole with a hand drill then tapped the threads using pliers holding the end of the tap. Just noting that to say how easy it was with minimal tools. I secured the set screw using Loctite 243 since it is a through hole and can fall into the buffer tube if screwed in all the way.

I plan on shooting it tomorrow to see how it holds up.

614636146461465

[DamonL]

dfeder530

Does the stock block the trigger when folded? Have you thought about a Battlelink Minimalist Stock?

[dfeder530]

dfeder530

Does the stock block the trigger when folded? Have you thought about a Battlelink Minimalist Stock?

The trigger can still be accessed when folded but it is a tight fit. The safety is much harder to hit. If the stock is extended and folded it frees up some space and both the trigger and safety are easy to hit. A Minimalist stock would definitely free up that area, since it lacks the angled part that is on the CTR stock. I don't plan on shooting it while folded though. For me it's really just for stowing in a more compact package.

[Bratch]

Anyone heard when the next shipment will get in? I’d like to grab one for the wife.

[Shellback]

I've been out of the loop for a while. Just got an SGA stock and ordered the adapter from Aridus.

I'll be ordering the CROM (RH Mod) and hand guard when they become available as well.

Is there a standard recommendation for light and mount that work well with the hand guard? Best way to mount a sling?

I was contemplating ordering the Nordic extension as well. Are people only using the Carrier Comp follower with the Nordic or with the standard magazine as well?

[GearFondler]

I've been out of the loop for a while. Just got an SGA stock and ordered the adapter from Aridus.

I'll be ordering the CROM (RH Mod) and hand guard when they become available as well.

Is there a standard recommendation for light and mount that work well with the hand guard? Best way to mount a sling?

I was contemplating ordering the Nordic extension as well. Are people only using the Carrier Comp follower with the Nordic or with the standard magazine as well?You only need the new carrier if you add the extension and are worried about 922R compliance... Otherwise the OEM follower is great.

[DamonL]

I have been looking for a Aridus Zhukov kit for a while now. Its hard to find.

[GyroF-16]

I've been out of the loop for a while. Just got an SGA stock and ordered the adapter from Aridus.

I'll be ordering the CROM (RH Mod) and hand guard when they become available as well.

Is there a standard recommendation for light and mount that work well with the hand guard? Best way to mount a sling?

I was contemplating ordering the Nordic extension as well. Are people only using the Carrier Comp follower with the Nordic or with the standard magazine as well?

I’ve been pleased with a Streamlight ProTac and included pressure switch. Mounted the light with a Magpul cantilever mount, and attached the pressure switch to the handguard with Magpul hardware (had to drill out the mounting holes in the pressure switch to a slightly larger diameter, but it worked out well).

I just added a sling myself. Used the slot integrated into the SGA stock to loop the sling through, then put one of these:
https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/rotation-limited-quick-detach-sling/
Near the rear of the handguard to connect a QD sling swivel to.

[Shellback]

You only need the new carrier if you add the extension and are worried about 922R compliance... Otherwise the OEM follower is great.

I'll be adding the Nordic extension. Is this the recommended follower that I saw mentioned earlier? https://shop.carriercomp.com/product.sc?productId=14

[GearFondler]

I'll be adding the Nordic extension. Is this the recommended follower that I saw mentioned earlier? https://shop.carriercomp.com/product.sc?productId=14

Yep, that's it.

[NPV]

So I ordered a Carrier Comp follower, says to wait for a call to provide payment details. How long should I expect to wait?

[GyroF-16]

So I ordered a Carrier Comp follower, says to wait for a call to provide payment details. How long should I expect to wait?

Within the next couple days. I think they called me on a Saturday evening.

[NPV]

Got the call tonight at almost 2100, thanks

[flyrodr]

Just got an email from LangdonTactical that my LTT 1301 is scheduled to be delivered to the LGS on Friday. Pretty excited to test the water with this, as I'm new to the idea of a tactical shotgun. In fact, my last autoloader shotgun was the Winchester M59 (the aluminum receiver, fiberglass barrel w/ steel liner model), which I traded in on a Superposed 20 gauge back in 1967. I remember that year, as I started college that fall, and went quail hunting where the university later built its current football stadium. Sticker price on that Browning was dang near $400 (did I mention 1967?)

Back on track, plan to put a red dot on it, and otherwise, basically call it good. Invest in some of today's gold-plated ammo. And a course or two: TCinVA isn't all that far away.

[GJM]

I just got an Aridus CROM for a fairly new 1301, and installed it and a T1. Got it zeroed for Brenneke Classic Magnum slugs, POA/POI at 25 yards. Was a little hard on the trigger on the last shot, which opened the group up a bit.

63370

[Joe Mac]

I just got an Aridus CROM for a fairly new 1301, and installed it and a T1.

How about a pic? I got money burning a hole in my pocket... :D

[Isaac]

Def looking fwd to when the 1301s are back in stock too!

[flyrodr]

Second range trip with my LTT 1301 with T-2. Federal slugs, three shots at 25 yds, resting on range table.
63722


First trip, I was shooting some Remington "reduced recoil" slugs the range sold. Box said 1200fps. Today, I was using Federal "Power Shok" loads listed as 1610fps. Not a huge difference in POI at 25, but considerably more muzzle blast and recoil. As GJM used the word, "concussion" is a much more accurate descriptor.

I'm liking this thing.

Gotta go to another range to pattern some buckshot. Current range doesn't allow use of shot, to preserve their target carriers.

[Yung]

You shall be pleased to know that Mr. Tom Givens has written about the 1301 in the early edition of next month's Rangemaster newsletter. Go read it if you haven't already.

[delphidoc]

You shall be pleased to know that Mr. Tom Givens has written about the 1301 in the early edition of next month's Rangemaster newsletter. Go read it if you haven't already.



https://rangemaster.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/2020-12_RFTS-Newsletter.pdf


(https://rangemaster.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/2020-12_RFTS-Newsletter.pdf)

[GJM]

Will be camping in the desert tonight, and have the 1301 full of Brenneke slugs. What is neat, is since I wear a Mastermind Velcro belt, I can just grab the spare slugs and slap them right on my belt.

64087

64088

[rob_s]

Will be camping in the desert tonight, and have the 1301 full of Brenneke slugs. What is neat, is since I wear a Mastermind Velcro belt, I can just grab the spare slugs and slap them right on my belt.

64087

64088



LOL


https://youtu.be/MNfBftMWNTo

[flyrodr]

Will be camping in the desert tonight, and have the 1301 full of Brenneke slugs. What is neat, is since I wear a Mastermind Velcro belt, I can just grab the spare slugs and slap them right on my belt.


General interest strategy questions. Thoughts on your choice of 1301 over Rattler? And slugs vs. buckshot around camp?

Thanks in advance.

[GJM]

General interest strategy questions. Thoughts on your choice of 1301 over Rattler? And slugs vs. buckshot around camp?

Thanks in advance.

I have been thinking about this for a while, and discussed it with Darryl Bolke multiple times. We have the Rattler in a pack and the 1301 in a case. My wife is the Rattler person and me the 1301. Darryl points out that carbines are good, but Brenneke slugs are definitive. I keep buckshot in my shotgun when inside in the lower 48, but slugs outside everywhere and even inside in Alaska.

[flyrodr]

I have been thinking about this for a while, and discussed it with Darryl Bolke multiple times. We have the Rattler in a pack and the 1301 in a case. My wife is the Rattler person and me the 1301. Darryl points out that carbines are good, but Brenneke slugs are definitive. I keep buckshot in my shotgun when inside in the lower 48, but slugs outside everywhere and even inside in Alaska.

Thank you very much. Sounds like flawless logic. And a formidable duo!!

[GyroF-16]

I have been thinking about this for a while, and discussed it with Darryl Bolke multiple times. We have the Rattler in a pack and the 1301 in a case. My wife is the Rattler person and me the 1301. Darryl points out that carbines are good, but Brenneke slugs are definitive. I keep buckshot in my shotgun when inside in the lower 48, but slugs outside everywhere and even inside in Alaska.

Buckshot inside to minimize interior wall penetration? And slugs otherwise for maximizing immediate incapacitation? (Since I know Darryl is a fan of slugs for social engagements in most cases).
Or other considerations?

I think I get the choice of the gauge over .300 BO if you are choosing...

But would you care to expand on the rationale for both choices?

[GJM]

Buckshot inside to minimize interior wall penetration? And slugs otherwise for maximizing immediate incapacitation? (Since I know Darryl is a fan of slugs for social engagements in most cases).
Or other considerations?

I think I get the choice of the gauge over .300 BO if you are choosing...

But would you care to expand on the rationale for both choices?

I would go Brennekes inside, but my wife would be pissed what it would do to the house! If a bear got in, she would take the damage, though.

[GyroF-16]

I would go Brennekes inside, but my wife would be pissed what it would do to the house! If a bear got in, she would take the damage, though.

Ah, got it.

[GNiner]

My defensive shotgun envelope has always included both buckshot and slugs. For a while, around here FFC 8 pellet buckshot was unobtainable, while slugs were and are still widely available. This got me to wondering why even use buckshot? Slugs do everything buckshot does with more precision and more distance. If I am traveling anywhere in my truck, it is always with a slug loadout anyway. I understand the overpenetration thing in homes. Is there any other reason to use buckshot over slugs? I have slid into the "slug only" mindset, and want to make sure I am not missing something.

[deputyG23]

My defensive shotgun envelope has always included both buckshot and slugs. For a while, around here FFC 8 pellet buckshot was unobtainable, while slugs were and are still widely available. This got me to wondering why even use buckshot? Slugs do everything buckshot does with more precision and more distance. If I am traveling anywhere in my truck, it is always with a slug loadout anyway. I understand the overpenetration thing in homes. Is there any other reason to use buckshot over slugs? I have slid into the "slug only" mindset, and want to make sure I am not missing something.

My road deputies have the choice of 00 buck or slugs for their 870Ps and nearly all use slugs as the initial load.
One projectile to be responsible for versus nine per trigger pull.

[NPV]

I’m not sure if this is the proper place but......my 1301T has the limited edition blue Airidus stock and hand guard adapters, came that way from the gentleman I purchased it from. Being that I’m not LE I’d be willing to do a trade for the standard black.

No problem if there’s no interest but I figured the blue may mean a bit more to someone else.

[cliff58]

Are the 1301 Tactical mag tube threads the same as Benelli?

[cliff58]

Scratch that last thread-a bunch of the Nordic kits hit the internet today.

[GearFondler]

After posting this in a different thread I want to add it here for future reference.

My son has an M4 so I can do a quick comparison to the 1301T...

These are both set up in a very similar configuration: 7rd tubes, 6rd side saddles, RMR mounts, WML's.

My 1301 as shown, 7 +1 loaded = 9lbs 2oz.

The M4 as shown, 7 +1 loaded = 10lbs 3oz.

AOL is as follows:

1301T is 37.25 inches w/ 12.125" LOP

M4 fully collapsed is 35 inches w/ 9.25" LOP

Mid-position is 38 inches w/ 12.25" LOP

Fully extended is 40 inches w/ 14.25" LOP

Camera pics tend to distort perspective but here's the M4 stock positions against the 1301T for what it's worth.

In my opinion the mid-position on the M4 stock makes any size difference a wash. Where the issues arise is with the weight and ergonomic differences... The Magpul SGA stock feels much better to me than the slightly awkward pistol grip of the M4 and the extra pound of weight is very noticeable. Plus building the 1301T will most certainly cost you less than blinging-out the M4.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201213/ca409cd5c7fafb118eff8d4563f05652.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201213/7f445f83e1ec363c85c3771a92368ce0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201213/2b37b8f00ac44035177ea569e024c887.jpg

[Gerry Adams]

So I was talking with a friend of mine recently, who also owns a 1301, regarding cleaning. I typically have Hoppes and G96 synthetic products around. He uses mainly Slip 2000 and Ballistol.
I’m just curious what some others might be using for the barrel and the insides? Given the barrel is Steelium and contain nickel, I try not to use anything heavy duty on it.

Anyone have any experience with a certain product that works best, or a cleaning guideline they adhere to?

[Clusterfrack]

So I was talking with a friend of mine recently, who also owns a 1301, regarding cleaning. I typically have Hoppes and G96 synthetic products around. He uses mainly Slip 2000 and Ballistol.
I’m just curious what some others might be using for the barrel and the insides? Given the barrel is Steelium and contain nickel, I try not to use anything heavy duty on it.

Anyone have any experience with a certain product that works best, or a cleaning guideline they adhere to?

Kroil, and a bronze brush on a cut-off rod mounted in a hand drill. Be careful. This creates a hazmat situation.

[cliff58]

I know the IC choke that comes with the 1301 gives good patterns with the Federal FC 00-but shooting Rio and some other brands of 00 the patterns at 10 yards are not that impressive-has anyone tried any other constrictions that have helped any-I hate to buy several different chokes,was hoping someone had tried a different constriction and if it improved the patterns of the non FC 00 buck,thanks.

[cliff58]

I know the IC choke that comes with the 1301 gives good patterns with the Federal FC 00-but shooting Rio and some other brands of 00 the patterns at 10 yards are not that impressive-has anyone tried any other constrictions that have helped any-I hate to buy several different chokes,was hoping someone had tried a different constriction and if it improved the patterns of the non FC 00 buck,thanks.cylinder choke not ic

[GJM]

I wasn’t aware anyone cleaned the barrel on their 1301?

[GyroF-16]

I wasn’t aware anyone cleaned the barrel on their 1301?

I know you’re being facetious, but I have, several times in only maybe 100-150 rds of slug and FC buck. The first time I did it, I was unpleasantly surprised by all the bits of plastic that the brass brush scraped loose. I guess the FliteControl wadding melts onto the barrel a bit.
My inner OCD doesn't like that.

I have gotten better with my training/competition gun - the LTT Elite only gets cleaned every 6-700 rds or so. And the ARs only when I’m putting them away for awhile and don’t foresee shooting them for a couple of months.

All this is significant progress from the “don’t let the sun set on a dirty gun” mindset that I grew up with.

[Cory]

Still seems like black 1301T gen2 with chokes are unobtanium.

[GJM]

I know you’re being facetious, but I have, several times in only maybe 100-150 rds of slug and FC buck. The first time I did it, I was unpleasantly surprised by all the bits of plastic that the brass brush scraped loose. I guess the FliteControl wadding melts onto the barrel a bit.
My inner OCD doesn't like that.

I have gotten better with my training/competition gun - the LTT Elite only gets cleaned every 6-700 rds or so. And the ARs only when I’m putting them away for awhile and don’t foresee shooting them for a couple of months.

All this is significant progress from the “don’t let the sun set on a dirty gun” mindset that I grew up with.

Actually, I do have a 12 gauge bore snake but that is the limit of my barrel cleaning.

[GJM]

I needed to zero my newest 1301 today with slugs. Where Brenneke slugs make my eyes water zeroing a 14 inch Benelli, they still bark enough in the 1301 that I decided to get a rough zero with low recoil Fiocchi slugs. After doing that I perfected my zero with the Brenneke Classic magnum slugs and got this at 25 yards.

64955

I next decided to see where the Fiocchi slugs hit at the same distance, and was pleasantly surprised to see the result of both types of slugs to be this.

64956

How awesome that I can use Fiocchi for training without messing with my Brenneke zero.

64957

[Clusterfrack]

GJM, I found the same thing with Brenneke SF short mag slugs and Fed Truball low recoil slugs.

[NPV]

Clusterfrack and just to pile on Federal Low-Recoil 8 pellet hits to the same zero as the low-recoil TruBalls in my gun at 25 yards. Makes life with this shotgun a lot less complicated.

[flyrodr]

When I recently got my 1301 and mounted an Aimpoint Micro, I zeroed it with some slugs the range had for sale (Remington Reduced Recoil Slugger @ 1200 fps). Subsequently, a local law enforcement supply house had the Federal Truball LEB127 LRS (1300 fps), which had a similar POI at 25 yd, and a similar felt recoil - - - "not that bad", I recall thinking. I then found a semi-decent price on Federal Power Shok F127RS (1610 fps). Those also shot to a similar POI at 25 yds, but with a noticeable increase in recoil and muzzle blast. Looking at muzzle energy, the reduced recoil rounds (1200-1300 fps) were in the neighborhood of 1300-1600 Ft Lbs, while the higher velocity rounds were more like 2400-2500 Ft Lbs, in the neighborhood of 60% - 85% increase in energy (if I did the math correctly). Regardless, a substantial increase in energy and recoil. As GJM said, an eye watering difference. And with similar POIs at 25 yds, most definitely worth chasing down the low recoil rounds for practice.

[Doc_Glock]

I needed to zero my newest 1301 today with slugs. Where Brenneke slugs make my eyes water zeroing a 14 inch Benelli, they still bark enough in the 1301 that I decided to get a rough zero with low recoil Fiocchi slugs. After doing that I perfected my zero with the Brenneke Classic magnum slugs and got this at 25 yards.

64955

I next decided to see where the Fiocchi slugs hit at the same distance, and was pleasantly surprised to see the result of both types of slugs to be this.

64956

How awesome that I can use Fiocchi for training without messing with my Brenneke zero.

64957

I found the same thing with Brenneke KO slugs and PMC slugs. Same Same as far as POI.

[Flyboytim]

I've been reading through quite a bit of this thread, but still having a hard time wrapping my head around what needs to be done to extend the mag capacity of a 1301T while remaining 922c compliant.

Looks like the Langdon LTT 1301 achieves this with:
1)MagPul Zhukov Handguard
2)MagPul Stock/Aridus Industries Stock Adapter
3)Nordic Components Enhanced Magazine Tube Follower

But that doesn't jive with the table and comments below. Is Langdon doing something else that I'm missing, or if I change out those parts on my own am I good to go?

In order to install a US sourced “Barrel Attachment” ie, a choke tube made in the US and thus lopping off one more Beretta OEM part to achieve the difficult to achieve 922R compliance, what US manufacturer would you recommend I buy from??? TIA

[NPV]

Witness marks came in handy today. I may try a different type of thread locker. What’s everyone else using? I used the orange stuff that came with the CROM, but I have some blue locktite I may try instead.

66308

[RancidSumo]

Witness marks came in handy today. I may try a different type of thread locker. What’s everyone else using? I used the orange stuff that came with the CROM, but I have some blue locktite I may try instead.

66308

You may already know this/have done it and it failed anyway, but if the orange stuff is VibraTite, be sure to let it dry on the screw before installation. I've had good luck with it on pistol optics.

[NPV]

You may already know this/have done it and it failed anyway, but if the orange stuff is VibraTite, be sure to let it dry on the screw before installation. I've had good luck with it on pistol optics.

Yup thanks I had forgotten the name. I do remember degreasing the screws with acetone then letting the thread locker dry for about 30 minutes before installing. It’s possible I under-torqued the screws as I do recall going pretty easy with Allen wrench.

[flyrodr]

Witness marks came in handy today. I may try a different type of thread locker. What’s everyone else using? I used the orange stuff that came with the CROM, but I have some blue locktite I may try instead.

I can't say the Vibra-Tite doesn't work. I've tried it, with mixed success, likely because I didn't allow sufficient "pre-drying" before assembly.

That said, Loctite is "easier" for me to use (clean threads, put it on, torque it down). You still need to wait until it sets (10 min to cure, 24 hrs to fully set, for blue 242), so the wait time is on the back end compared to the front end for Vibra-Tite. But it has always held consistently for me.

And, yes, cleaning and proper tightening are important with either product. I'll admit to rarely using a torque wrench/driver, but it does minimize the risk of under tightening, or more likely, over tightening and possibly stripping fine threads, particularly in aluminum/alloy.

[NPV]

I can't say the Vibra-Tite doesn't work. I've tried it, with mixed success, likely because I didn't allow sufficient "pre-drying" before assembly.

That said, Loctite is "easier" for me to use (clean threads, put it on, torque it down). You still need to wait until it sets (10 min to cure, 24 hrs to fully set, for blue 242), so the wait time is on the back end compared to the front end for Vibra-Tite. But it has always held consistently for me.

And, yes, cleaning and proper tightening are important with either product. I'll admit to rarely using a torque wrench/driver, but it does minimize the risk of under tightening, or more likely, over tightening and possibly stripping fine threads, particularly in aluminum/alloy.

I’ll have to check it out later this week and report back. As I recall there weren’t specific torque specs or else I would have used the Wheeler wrench.

FWIW this mount was installed over a year ago and has had a good amount of rounds through the gun since.

[GearFondler]

I’ll have to check it out later this week and report back. As I recall there weren’t specific torque specs or else I would have used the Wheeler wrench.

FWIW this mount was installed over a year ago and has had a good amount of rounds through the gun since.Shotguns will pretty much knock anything loose that isn't welded on if given enough time.

[RancidSumo]

Pleasant surprise with this showing up a month early. Are you all running the sling all the way out to the barrel clamp or putting the forward point closer to the receiver? Also would welcome any shortcut on light solutions - diving into the 300 pages now . . .

66423

Also, looking forward to seeing how this cheapo dot holds up. Just swapped it over from an unused carbine until I can round up an Aimpoint, but I’ll be much more comfortable with it as a back up if it survives a few hundred rounds here.

[Gerry Adams]

You may already know this/have done it and it failed anyway, but if the orange stuff is VibraTite, be sure to let it dry on the screw before installation. I've had good luck with it on pistol optics.

Thanks for the tip. I wish I knew this before I installed my SGA stock, I applied it to the adapter and assembled/ tightened it right after. But I haven't mounted my CROM yet, I'll be sure to give it sometime to dry now though.

[RancidSumo]

First round through the 1301. 9 pellet Flite Control at 10 yards. This gun is going to be great. Unfortunately they weren’t all quite as perfect, but the rest looked like the second pic, so good enough for me.

66866
66867

[Stobocor]

Pleasant surprise with this showing up a month early. Are you all running the sling all the way out to the barrel clamp or putting the forward point closer to the receiver? Also would welcome any shortcut on light solutions - diving into the 300 pages now . . .


Mine showed up a month early too! Too bad it does this...

https://i.imgur.com/2nnrHuG.jpg?3

It's not the shells... I tested a few different brands and loads. From what I can tell, the carrier isn't dropping low enough, so the rounds are getting hung up. To make matters worse, the bolt release gets stuck. It took me about five minutes the first time to figure out how to clear it. I had to pull back on the bolt, depress the bolt lock, then slightly pull down on the carrier. When I do all those simultaneously, I can then hit the bolt release and free everything up. Waiting on a reply from LTT.

[Balisong]

Mine showed up a month early too! Too bad it does this...

https://i.imgur.com/2nnrHuG.jpg?3

It's not the shells... I tested a few different brands and loads. From what I can tell, the carrier isn't dropping low enough, so the rounds are getting hung up. To make matters worse, the bolt release gets stuck. It took me about five minutes the first time to figure out how to clear it. I had to pull back on the bolt, depress the bolt lock, then slightly pull down on the carrier. When I do all those simultaneously, I can then hit the bolt release and free everything up. Waiting on a reply from LTT.

Please keep us updated. My LTT should be arriving end of February

[dpcarriere]

I would like to add a recoil buffer like the Kynshot. I like the idea of hydrolic mitigation. As I understand, the Kynshot will fit only to an AR-15 type stock. I would rather not have the pistol grip. Is anyone aware of a hydrolic buffer on a not AR-15 type stock? Is it even possible?

This is all new to me. I do not yet own a1301T, but it's just around the corner. Just doing my research ahead of time before I lay out my cash.

[CWM11B]

I would like to add a recoil buffer like the Kynshot. I like the idea of hydrolic mitigation. As I understand, the Kynshot will fit only to an AR-15 type stock. I would rather not have the pistol grip. Is anyone aware of a hydrolic buffer on a not AR-15 type stock? Is it even possible?

This is all new to me. I do not yet own a1301T, but it's just around the corner. Just doing my research ahead of time before I lay out my cash.

I would suggest getting the gun and shooting it with your inteneded load and determining if the recoil impulse (as it impacts you) is worth the expense. Personally, I find my 1301 to be one of the softest shooting 12 gauges I've shot or owned. The only one softer to me is my Beretta A400 Xcel with the "kickoff" system, but that gun is pretty much for clays or hunting. One could probably get a barrel modified easily to adapt it to defensive use though.

[dpcarriere]

I would suggest getting the gun and shooting it with your inteneded load and determining if the recoil impulse (as it impacts you) is worth the expense. Personally, I find my 1301 to be one of the softest shooting 12 gauges I've shot or owned. The only one softer to me is my Beretta A400 Xcel with the "kickoff" system, but that gun is pretty much for clays or hunting. One could probably get a barrel modified easily to adapt it to defensive use though.

[dpcarriere]

Yet another option for consideration. A wee tad pricier but still an option. Thank you.

[TCinVA]

Mine showed up a month early too! Too bad it does this...

https://i.imgur.com/2nnrHuG.jpg?3

It's not the shells... I tested a few different brands and loads. From what I can tell, the carrier isn't dropping low enough, so the rounds are getting hung up. To make matters worse, the bolt release gets stuck. It took me about five minutes the first time to figure out how to clear it. I had to pull back on the bolt, depress the bolt lock, then slightly pull down on the carrier. When I do all those simultaneously, I can then hit the bolt release and free everything up. Waiting on a reply from LTT.

The shell latch/bolt release might need to be re-adjusted. It should go back to home base for that, though.

[Stobocor]

The shell latch/bolt release might need to be re-adjusted. It should go back to home base for that, though.

Yeah, without another one to compare it too, I think that will solve the issue. It's already on the way to the nearest Beretta warranty shop. Beretta quoted me 4-6 weeks, I'm hoping for a quick fix. LTT never called me back.

[Joe45]

Front sight?

Somewhere in all of these pages I remember reading about the canted front sight issue, but I can't seem to find the post with pictures now. I expected this, and at first I thought it was the front post that was canted on mine, but it looks like it is the whole housing. Does that all come off when the screw is removed, or is this a more difficult fix?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210211/5a52d16a096aec24d98c0512518a1be8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210211/b01a346b1249da6af0b53aa6de8c0ea8.jpg

[GyroF-16]

Front sight?

Somewhere in all of these pages I remember reading about the canted front sight issue, but I can't seem to find the post with pictures now. I expected this, and at first I thought it was the front post that was canted on mine, but it looks like it is the whole housing. Does that all come off when the screw is removed, or is this a more difficult fix?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210211/5a52d16a096aec24d98c0512518a1be8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210211/b01a346b1249da6af0b53aa6de8c0ea8.jpg

Yes, the “ears” come off with the front sight post.
If you find a way to brace the post within the “ears” as you re-tighten the nut, it’s easier to keep the ears straight with your other hand while you work on the nut. The challenge is keeping both parts from twisting as it gets tight. I think I found bits of wood to lay on either side of the post to keep it from rotating.

[Up1911Fan]

Just need that stock adapter!67543

[Det1397]

Just need that stock adapter!67543


YUP! You and half of the world (myself included....!)

[37th Mass]

Classic has these in stock right now.

Beretta J131T18F 1301 Tactical Semi-Auto 18.5" 3" Shotgun: https://www.classicfirearms.com/beretta-j131t18f-1301-tactical-semi-auto-185-3/?trk_msg=7U3KTQTTMI1K34UQENTET970E0&trk_contact=8D4S6RJKFBDSH04CDJATV0JC8K&trk_sid=4GM99EM30VJVHHS4MBFBBMI0KG&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=https%3a%2f%2fwww.classicfirearms.com%2fb eretta-j131t18f-1301-tactical-semi-auto-185-3%2f&utm_campaign=20210214ManufacturerReviewM%2bM&utm_content=Secondary

[Joe45]

YUP! You and half of the world (myself included....!)It was in stock at beretta for about 5 minutes a couple days back. Gone before I could check out.

[rojocorsa]

Front sight?

Somewhere in all of these pages I remember reading about the canted front sight issue, but I can't seem to find the post with pictures now. I expected this, and at first I thought it was the front post that was canted on mine, but it looks like it is the whole housing. Does that all come off when the screw is removed, or is this a more difficult fix?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210211/5a52d16a096aec24d98c0512518a1be8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210211/b01a346b1249da6af0b53aa6de8c0ea8.jpg



Like Gyro said above me, that's more or less how you fix it. I've seen this on gen1 and gen2, just due to the way the design is.

[Joe45]

Like Gyro said above me, that's more or less how you fix it. I've seen this on gen1 and gen2, just due to the way the design is.Thank you both. I ordered the Blitzing sight. If I'm going to mess with it, I figured I'll upgrade.

[Cory]

For those who own a base model 1301 Gen 2, has the rail on top of the gun been changed to aluminum and is it possible to mount an optic to it? I'm aware that the real solution is an Aridus CROM and that co-witness would be nonexistant without it. I'm just curious if an optic can be reliably mounted (sans cowitness) with the rail it has stock.

Basically I might actually be buying a gen 2 later today, but I'm trying to calculate what my total investment would be. Base model + Nordic. Then I wondered if I could steal the primary arms micro-dot from my AR and toss it on the stock rail for now.

EDIT: They're all sold out now. So guess it wont be today. The question remains I suppose.

[Trigger]

Yes, the “ears” come off with the front sight post.
If you find a way to brace the post within the “ears” as you re-tighten the nut, it’s easier to keep the ears straight with your other hand while you work on the nut. The challenge is keeping both parts from twisting as it gets tight. I think I found bits of wood to lay on either side of the post to keep it from rotating.

Gyro you need a “so to speak” with your discussion of gripping ears, tight nuts and wood.

[GyroF-16]

Gyro you need a “so to speak” with your discussion of gripping ears, tight nuts and wood.

a “so to speak” or three, apparently. I guess I got “ahead” of myself. STS

ETA - my wife says I must be out of practice. (STS) And least I didn’t suggest using a box wrench.

[Trigger]

a “so to speak” or three, apparently. I guess I got “ahead” of myself. STS

ETA - my wife says I must be out of practice. (STS) And least I didn’t suggest using a box wrench.

You said “box.” Heh.

[Det1397]

Aridus has the stock adaptor and the CROM available right now- go get some!

https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/asa-1301-stock-adapter/

[Up1911Fan]

If your looking for the Aridus Stock Adapter, you may want to go check the site.

[ssb]

I’d be thrilled if they would restock the Zhukov fore ends. That’s the last piece I need.

[Up1911Fan]

I’d be thrilled if they would restock the Zhukov fore ends. That’s the last piece I need.

You just missed out. I got mine a couple weeks ago.

[Balisong]

Thank you both. I ordered the Blitzing sight. If I'm going to mess with it, I figured I'll upgrade.

Let me know how that goes. I ordered my Blitzkrieg on Feb 8th and have heard nothing since then. I just sent them an email.

[Joe45]

Let me know how that goes. I ordered my Blitzkrieg on Feb 8th and have heard nothing since then. I just sent them an email.Will do. And yes, that's what I ordered. Not what I was autocorrected to. I ordered on 2/10 and also haven't heard anything.

[RancidSumo]

For people running a single screw mlok QD mount in the half slot by the receiver, how do you get it to stop sliding around in the slot? Am I just being an idiot with this and missing something obvious? I'm trying to use an IWC mount-n-slot.

[Det1397]

Ordered a CROM and an ASA on Monday, received today! Great service from Adam Roth at Aridus Industries!

[Balisong]

Ordered a CROM and an ASA on Monday, received today! Great service from Adam Roth at Aridus Industries!

Very sweet! Does it do true cowitness or lower 3rd?

I put 37 various rounds through my brand new LTT 1301 2 days ago, ranging from light 1oz birdshot to 1 1/8oz birds hot and some Rio 00Buck shells. Flawless function, but not going to pattern/test with good Federal ammo until I get my optics set up. Got a Blitzkrieg front sight on order over 2 weeks ago, it was in stock but no word yet. Emailed them and no response to that so far.

[Palisut]

Ordered a CROM and an ASA on Monday, received today! Great service from Adam Roth at Aridus Industries!
What screws did you use to mount the Holosun? I tried to use the included screws to mount a 508T on my LTT 1301 w/ RMR CROM and they weren't quite right. Ended up just using an extra RMR. Thanks in advance!

[Det1397]

What screws did you use to mount the Holosun? I tried to use the included screws to mount a 508T on my LTT 1301 w/ RMR CROM and they weren't quite right. Ended up just using an extra RMR. Thanks in advance!

I had no difficulties in using the supplied HOLOSUN screws, which mated fine with the CROM. I think they were the same two that were originally attached to the Picatinny riser mount.

[Joe45]

Let me know how that goes. I ordered my Blitzkrieg on Feb 8th and have heard nothing since then. I just sent them an email.Tracking number received today.

[23JAZ]

This thread has had me jonesing for a 1301 for a long time. Today I finally pulled the trigger. Found a Gen 2 in black for a “reasonable” price. Just received tracking. I cannot wait to get it to the range.

[Balisong]

Tracking number received today.

Thanks for the update. I still have no tracking number or response to my email

[Cory]

This thread has had me jonesing for a 1301 for a long time. Today I finally pulled the trigger. Found a Gen 2 in black for a “reasonable” price. Just received tracking. I cannot wait to get it to the range.

Congrats! Mine hits the local FFL tuesday. Hopefully I'll pick it up then. I drove past the FedEx hub that has it on the way to my weekend get away. It was painful.

[Balisong]

Thanks for the update. I still have no tracking number or response to my email

Scratch that, looks like they sent it a couple hours ago. Long freaking time though, I'd love to know what they're so busy doing that it takes over 2 weeks to drop an iron sight in a box and mail it.

[23JAZ]

Down the rabbit hole I go. Ordered a Nordic extension and follower last night from DSG, and a Haught Aimpoint CROM this morning. I already have the Magpul stock, just need the adaptor and handguard!

[JimBobWe]

So, was trying to put a MagPul QD on my LTT1301 with the MagPul forend - but it looks like I can’t use most of the slots due to what I assume is a heat shield.
Is that normal, can I just put it on, or do I need to cut some holes in the heat shield?
Not sure if that is part of the MagPyl furniture or something that came with the 1301 from Beretta..

[23JAZ]

Pleasant surprise with this showing up a month early. Are you all running the sling all the way out to the barrel clamp or putting the forward point closer to the receiver? Also would welcome any shortcut on light solutions - diving into the 300 pages now . . .

66423

Also, looking forward to seeing how this cheapo dot holds up. Just swapped it over from an unused carbine until I can round up an Aimpoint, but I’ll be much more comfortable with it as a back up if it survives a few hundred rounds here.
I that a Vortex Crossfire? I have one laying around I am planning on throwing on there as soon as I get the CROM.
FWIW I had it on my Mossberg 12ga with no issues what so ever.

[Det1397]

So, was trying to put a MagPul QD on my LTT1301 with the MagPul forend - but it looks like I can’t use most of the slots due to what I assume is a heat shield.
Is that normal, can I just put it on, or do I need to cut some holes in the heat shield?
Not sure if that is part of the MagPyl furniture or something that came with the 1301 from Beretta..

Aridus addresses the situation with the Magpul handguard here: https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/1301hga-blk/

I also think there’s information included with the handguard...

[23JAZ]

Can anyone confirm what the upgrade to the bolt handle on the Gen 2 is?

[Cory]

Just picked up my 1301 Tac.

Holy cow, I can't believe how light and handy this thing is. I feel like it must have some stout recoil... but everyone says that's not the case. With any luck I'll get to put a few shells through it this weekend.

[TCinVA]

Can anyone confirm what the upgrade to the bolt handle on the Gen 2 is?

There isn't one.

The Gen2 has a different bolt release. The bolt handle is the same.

[23JAZ]

There isn't one.

The Gen2 has a different bolt release. The bolt handle is the same.

I’m seeing mixed opinions on the OEM bolt handle. Should I order a stainless steel aftermarket one to have on hand? Seems like they break sooner than later.

[TCinVA]

I’m seeing mixed opinions on the OEM bolt handle. Should I order a stainless steel aftermarket one to have on hand? Seems like they break sooner than later.

I've not broken one.

So far all the replacement bolt handles available are two piece affairs that are just as "vulnerable" as the factory handle.

It's not impossible to break one, but I've spent a shitload of time around 1301's and I've yet to see a factory handle break that way.

[Doc_Glock]

Just picked up my 1301 Tac.

Holy cow, I can't believe how light and handy this thing is. I feel like it must have some stout recoil... but everyone says that's not the case. With any luck I'll get to put a few shells through it this weekend.

It's just freaking awesome. Awesome to handle, easy to shoot and I am recoil sensitive.

[Sal Picante]

Just picked up my 1301 Tac.

Holy cow, I can't believe how light and handy this thing is. I feel like it must have some stout recoil... but everyone says that's not the case. With any luck I'll get to put a few shells through it this weekend.

It is super soft... Everyone that shot it on Monday night remarked "Wow! That's really soft!" even shooting slugs.

[Cory]

It's just freaking awesome. Awesome to handle, easy to shoot and I am recoil sensitive.


It is super soft... Everyone that shot it on Monday night remarked "Wow! That's really soft!" even shooting slugs.

I'm used to 3" slugs from various guns (including an 1187) and heavier. My Mossberg 835 weighs in at 7.5lbs (which I always thought was really light) and is punishing with a 3 1/2" turkey load.

I'm really looking forward to seeing how the 6.4lb Beretta feels in comparison. Although odds are that I will never put anything bigger than 2 3/4" shells in it. For it's purpose there really isn't a need. It feels toy like. In a lot of ways it is similar to the way I felt when I first held a Glock.

[Doc_Glock]

I'm used to 3" slugs from various guns (including an 1187) and heavier. My Mossberg 835 weighs in at 7.5lbs (which I always thought was really light) and is punishing with a 3 1/2" turkey load.

I sold a Mossberg 500 after about 20 rounds because I hated the pain of shooting it. I have at least 6-700 through the 1301 and still love it.

[Balisong]

Tracking number received today.

My Blitzkrieg delivered today, 24 days after ordering. I'll try to get it installed by this weekend.

[23JAZ]

Picked mine up right after work today. If this thing works as good as it feels, I’m going to be in love.
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[Joe45]

My Blitzkrieg delivered today, 24 days after ordering. I'll try to get it installed by this weekend.Tracking says I should have mine Saturday.

[OlongJohnson]

Problem: My 1301 would not feed dummy rounds from the tube onto the lifter. It would feed one if you shook the gun to "simulate" recoil, just enough to momentarily stop the brass from bearing against the front of the shell latch. This basically made it impossible to practice manipulations using dummy rounds, or trust the gun to operate as needed generally. A little bit of a problem.

I searched and found others had had the same problem and fixed it by smoothing the front of the shell latch. So I watched a couple videos on disassembling a 1301 and got after it.

Shell latch, as shipped by Beretta:
The MIM mold parting flash was apparently biting into the brass enough to prevent the shell latch from moving off the side of the shell head to allow the shell to feed past it.

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Shell latch, after hitting it with the fine India stone. Ridge is gone, MIM surface roughness knocked down a little bit. Could probably have called it good at this point.

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Shell latch, after going back over it with the extra fine Arkansas stone. You can still see some of the deeper scratches from the India stone and some of the pits in the MIM surface. That's a few whiskers of lint from the paper towel I used to wipe the baby oil off it on the upper left. (I use baby oil when putting stone to metal, as it's probably OK to have on my skin.)

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Shell latch, from the other side. Made sure all the corners/edges were at least kinda broken and smooth. Although it looks rough, it feels very smooth. Even not considering the removal of the parting line, the rest of it is flatter than it was before touching it up.

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Hit it with the cold blue touch up pen before putting it all back together. Reassembled the gun, loaded up some dummy rounds (https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/cartridge-dummies/12-gauge-dummy-rounds-prod137211.aspx) and emptied the tube a few times by cycling the gun. It now feeds like a boss. No hassle of a return trip to Beretta.

Also, I'm pretty happy with the macro function on my three-generations-obsolete camera. I can do better with the DSLR and a tripod, but this came out halfway decent for hand holding a point and shoot.

[Rotundra]

What’s everyone using on their Nordic clamp to keep it from sliding around and killing the finish on the barrel?

[GearFondler]

What’s everyone using on their Nordic clamp to keep it from sliding around and killing the finish on the barrel?An Allen Wrench to take it off and then leave it off.

[LukeNCMX]

What’s everyone using on their Nordic clamp to keep it from sliding around and killing the finish on the barrel?

Nordic Components Barrel Clamp Gasket

https://nordiccomp.com/categories/1107726/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[HeavyDuty]

What’s everyone using on their Nordic clamp to keep it from sliding around and killing the finish on the barrel?

I haven’t been using the clamp.

[HeavyDuty]

Nordic Components Barrel Clamp Gasket

https://nordiccomp.com/categories/1107726/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why the hell don’t they include that?