Beretta 1301 Tactical

[GyroF-16]

Thanks!
VERY timely post...

I just got done attempting to “fix” my loose rail and rear sight problem.
I used Vibra-TITE VC-3 (mentioned above), as I had a couple of sample-size 1 mL packs on hand.

Got the rear sight addressed. Beyond a certain snugness, the rear sight screws didn’t get really tight. I stopped trying to tighten further for fear of stripping them. I think it’s the plastic base.

The rail, on the other hand... I really fouled it up. I snapped the head off the rear screw while “tightening” it down, and the front screw was already locked in with VC-3. Then stripped the head of the front screw while trying to remove it in order to attempt removing the shaft fo the rear screw (maybe with needle-nosed pliers).

Fuckity fuck fuck fuck.

So I guess now I’m taking the receiver to the gunsmith at my indoor range to see if he can drill out the two screws I destroyed.
Luckily, I have two more on hand, as the aluminum picatinny rail came with it’s own screws. Wish I had a torque spec for the screws - the failure limit is obviously less than “Gyro-with-a-torx-driver”.

And in the meantime, maybe look for additional screws. Fasteners are not my thing, so any help or advice are welcome.

Now I’m going to try to stop breaking things and crack a beer..

Okay... just got done talking to my gunsmith. He’s very reluctant to work on the receiver. He’s afraid of damaging the plastic rear sight (also anchored with VC-3) by using heat to work on the damaged screws for the rail. I convinced him to try to remove the rear sight and then go to work with heat on the rail screws. He’s also concerned about damaging the receiver while trying to drill out the broken screws.

Anyone here have any ideas on how to defeat the Vibra-TITE VC-3?

I think I’ve learned my lesson re: overdoing it on the strength of threadlocker for tasks that could go sideways.

[GyroF-16]

Evidently I just exceeded the edit window while I was typing the following:

ETA: I found this site to be informative:
https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlockers/removable-reusable-threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate/

Specifically, a quote from the manufacturer saying:

“ Unlike a traditional threadlocker which attempts to fix a fastener solidly in place; VC-3 works on the principle of vibration dampening. VC-3 essentially isolates the fastener from the vibration of the assembly, absorbing any intense shock and vibration which keeps the fastener from rotating. However, when you try to remove a fastener coated with VC-3 with continual torque in a singe direction, because of VC-3′s viscous flow properties, it will eventually rotate out. But this action is not representative of vibration in a real use situation where the direction and velocity is of a more random pattern.“

Which indicates that heat is not necessary or even helpful.
I’ve passed this on to my gunsmith.

[OlongJohnson]

Massive overkill: If a thread tap is broken off in an assembly of significant value, wire EDM is the go-to for getting it out. It basically makes the metal disappear, is my understanding. I've never seen it in operation, though.

[GyroF-16]

Massive overkill: If a thread tap is broken off in an assembly of significant value, wire EDM is the go-to for getting it out. It basically makes the metal disappear, is my understanding. I've never seen it in operation, though.

Okay, I’m intrigued...

Google gives me (in order):
Electronic Dance Music
Enthought Deployment Manenger (WTFO?j
Educational Data Mining
Enterprise Data Management

Ah!-
Electrical Discharge Machining (on page 4 of the Google search]

I’ll have to read up on that in the morning.

[Kosuke Kutsunugi]

What loads do you use for bear and hogs, slugs I'm guessing? What kid of distances? The Aimpoint micro reportedly holds up well on these guns. I would be interested to hear what optics you're using, what's working for you?



I change the ammo what to hunt.
I want to hunt wild bore and bear, I usually use rifled slug in IC or Cy.
to hunt dear, I always use 27 pellets back shot with full or mod choke.
to hunt birds, I use #5 birds shot in Cy.

Japan government allow gun hunting in limited areas, it exist mountain and forest.
it is poor visitation because of tree overgrow, darkness and steep mountain.

I always shoot 20~30 m and shooting chance is only 2 seconds.
So, i need quick aiming to use optics.

one reason I attach optics is that I think circle type raticle looks like eotech and so on is good for quick aiming for shotgun.
When i use rifled slug, I aim center dot.
When i use back shot, I aim circle dot. back shot pellet accurate in circle at 30 m

another reason I go to hunt alone,
when I attach rifle scope, I go to hunt alone for dear hunting.
I use scope to search dear look likes binoculars.

I change the optics for my hunting style changes together.
If you zero in first, it is no problem to detach optics in my shooting distance.

I hear aimpoint optics is high quality, I concern aimpoint S1.
Do you Know the review for aimpoint S1?
I want to know aimpoint micro review too.

[OlongJohnson]

another reason I go to hunt alone,
when I attach rifle scope, I go to hunt alone for dear hunting.
I use scope to search dear look likes binoculars.

I'm not a hunting expert, but that is a very bad practice. Buy separate binoculars. Use the scope for aiming the firearm. Use binoculars for searching for the game. If you use the scope to search for game, it is automatic that you will be pointing the gun at unknown objects, many of them things that you should not point the gun at. That is potentially very dangerous. Only point the gun in the direction of what you have determined you want to shoot, or another safe direction (at the ground).

[OlongJohnson]

My Langdon 1301 only takes six 2.75 rounds. To get the seventh in, I really need to force it the last bit, and it then doesn’t want to release from the tube. I pulled the spring and follower, reinstalled them, with no change. Thoughts?


I received the Carrier follower, installed it, and now it takes seven rounds in the tube. BTW, the Federal Flight Control 2.75 buck seem longer than 2.75 bird shot.

A link to this video ended up in my email inbox today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCRXu4ej_YA

I guess you can fix it with a different follower, too.

[Flyboytim]

A link to this video ended up in my email inbox today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCRXu4ej_YA

I guess you can fix it with a different follower, too.

Good video. I posted the following to the comment section:

“Just to add to your ideas on this. The measurement of a shotgun shell is based on the un-crimped, un-rolled, or brand new hull length, not the length of a completed round. This is why you find variations in shotgun shell lengths. They vary by powder volume, shot size and amount, crimp style and wad size, for examples. These factors influence the final length of the shell whose hull started life at 2 3/4” or 3” or whichever...”

[GJM]

Most of my shotgun shooting in recent years has been with a 14 inch Benelli M2 and Brenneke Classic Magnum slugs. While not Scandium 329 with full power .44 magnum level painful, after a half dozen slugs or so, my eyes water.

Around the holiday, I got a Langdon 1301 and got it kitted out with a Micro. Nice shotgun. Just this week, I decided to spring for a latest Gen, 1301 in FDE, add the Nordic kit, and try to run it otherwise bare to minimize weight. I first zeroed it at 25 yards with Fiocchi slugs. The 1301 came with the front sight slightly cock eyed, and the rear sight offset right. Took a few clicks to get it zeroed, and the rear sight was pretty neutral. I then shot Federal Tru Ball slugs, and POI at 25 was basically the same. I asked my wife to shoot it, but with Brenneke/Benelli thoughts in her mind, she was like “no way.” I said it is so soft shooting, it is no big deal.

She was shooting an array with her CO pistol, and I told her to let me run it with the shotgun. The shotty just knocked the steel and stands right over, with Fed 8 pellet buck, which was definitive. Fed buck Flite Control buck seems quite tight out of this barrel. I fired my last round at 15 yards — do you think this load makes major? :p

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[Doc_Glock]

Most of my shotgun shooting in recent years has been with a 14 inch Benelli M2 and Brenneke Classic Magnum slugs. While not Scandium 329 with full power .44 magnum level painful, after a half dozen slugs or so, my eyes water.

Around the holiday, I got a Langdon 1301 and got it kitted out with a Micro. Nice shotgun. Just this week, I decided to spring for a latest Gen, 1301 in FDE, add the Nordic kit, and try to run it otherwise bare to minimize weight. I first zeroed it at 25 yards with Fiocchi slugs. The 1301 came with the front sight slightly cock eyed, and the rear sight offset right. Took a few clicks to get it zeroed, and the rear sight was pretty neutral. I then shot Federal Tru Ball slugs, and POI at 25 was basically the same. I asked my wife to shoot it, but with Brenneke/Benelli thoughts in her mind, she was like “no way.” I said it is so soft shooting, it is no big deal.

She was shooting an array with her CO pistol, and I told her to let me run it with the shotgun. The shotty just knocked the steel and stands right over, with Fed 8 pellet buck, which was definitive. Fed buck Flite Control buck seems quite tight out of this barrel. I fired my last round at 15 yards — do you think this load makes major? :p


I am tremendously recoil sensitive. Generally I just don't like shotguns. But I like my 1301T. I have one that is all done up with the Magpul, CROM, light, sling and Aimpoint.

I just got another used from a member here, and it is completely stock. I have to be honest, it doesn't need anything (except maybe the Tau latch cover). I like it out of the box, I like the simplicity, the light weight and the open sights. Load and shoot.

She should try it.

[Flyboytim]

Yes, tell your wife we over at pistol-forum want her to shoot the 1301 and tell us what she thinks of it... 👍👍👍

[WobblyPossum]

For those of you who haven’t purchased the Aridus forend and do not use a +2 extension, how are you mounting a light to the gun? I really like the way my gun balances with the 5 round capacity magazine tube and don’t want to buy a mag extension. I’m undecided on the Aridus forend.

ETA: I remember seeing some examples posted but the thread has grown so large I don’t even know where to look.

[Andy in NH]

ETA: I remember seeing some examples posted but the thread has grown so large I don’t even know where to look.
I feel your pain.
Having a similar question, I did a search a while back for "light" in this thread and came up with over 200 posts to review.

[GJM]

For those of you who haven’t purchased the Aridus forend and do not use a +2 extension, how are you mounting a light to the gun? I really like the way my gun balances with the 5 round capacity magazine tube and don’t want to buy a mag extension. I’m undecided on the Aridus forend.

ETA: I remember seeing some examples posted but the thread has grown so large I don’t even know where to look.

Black electrical tape and a polymer 6P was my solution for a few years, early on with the 1301 (actually the TX4).

[Flyboytim]

A lot of folks like using the Stramlight 870 mount. This one is on my 11/87. Works with the 1301 too:501115011250113

[TCinVA]

FlyBoyTim beat me to the punch. That's how I have the X300 mounted on my 1301 home defense gun:

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I keep my hand farther back on the forend to ensure the light doesn't slam into my hand when I shoot. For home defense I'm going to be turning the light on with the constant-on switch should I need to shoot. A tape switch wouldn't be a bad idea with this setup, either.

[WobblyPossum]

Does the Streamlight 870 mount work with the regular magazine cap if you don’t have an extension?

[TCinVA]

Does the Streamlight 870 mount work with the regular magazine cap if you don’t have an extension?

It does indeed.

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That's the standard Beretta magazine cap with the Streamlight mount. I have a Viking Tactics mount for a hand-held light and a Surefire E2E with the LED conversion head mounted. I actually prefer that setup to the X300 mount but I've been too busy with other stuff to update the hand-held light in that setup to something brighter. For now I'm just putting the X300 on because it's one less thing to screw around with.

[WobblyPossum]

It does indeed.

50129

That's the standard Beretta magazine cap with the Streamlight mount. I have a Viking Tactics mount for a hand-held light and a Surefire E2E with the LED conversion head mounted. I actually prefer that setup to the X300 mount but I've been too busy with other stuff to update the hand-held light in that setup to something brighter. For now I'm just putting the X300 on because it's one less thing to screw around with.

Thanks. I just placed an order for one. I’m still deciding on a light. For now I’ll use a TLR-1 that I have access to. I’m looking at the new Streamlight TLR RM series. I’m not sure how much power I really need because the gun will solely be used for defense inside a house. I do hate CR123 batteries though so I’m also considering the 18650 compatible Rail Mount lights.

[TheRoland]

Thanks. I just placed an order for one. I’m still deciding on a light. For now I’ll use a TLR-1 that I have access to. I’m looking at the new Streamlight TLR RM series. I’m not sure how much power I really need because the gun will solely be used for defense inside a house. I do hate CR123 batteries though so I’m also considering the 18650 compatible Rail Mount lights.

I'm running a TLR-1 on this mount, now. It looks goofy as shit, in my opinion, with a slightly too-big pistol light hanging off the side of the slightly-too-big rail. But it puts the tailcap right where I need it, where my thumb likes to sit anyways.

So it looks stupid and works well.

[WobblyPossum]

I'm running a TLR-1 on this mount, now. It looks goofy as shit, in my opinion, with a slightly too-big pistol light hanging off the side of the slightly-too-big rail. But it puts the tailcap right where I need it, where my thumb likes to sit anyways.

So it looks stupid and works well.

Good to know. My mount should be delivered on Tuesday. I just wish the Federal Flite Control #1 Buck load was still available. I’ve got a few boxes of the 8 pellet Flite Control 00 Buck remaining so I’m not too worried, but I’ve always wanted to try the #1. I’m hoping Federal gets the kinks worked out and resumes production and sale.

As time goes on, I find that I’m beginning to agree more and more with Dagga Boy’s notion that a shotgun is more appropriate for the likely scenarios in which someone would use a long gun to defend their home and an AR style weapon is more appropriate to scenarios where you call 911 and find out no one is coming to help you. Yes, I did recently listen to the P&S episode about non-standard defensive weapons that DB was just on.

[TheRoland]

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Today, it lives with 4 00 Federal LE buck in the tube with an empty chamber, so it's very much not an AR with a 30 round magazine. I'll be adding a way to hang additional shells on the gun.


As time goes on, I find that I’m beginning to agree more and more with @Dagga Boy’s notion that a shotgun is more appropriate for the likely scenarios in which someone would use a long gun to defend their home and an AR style weapon is more appropriate to scenarios where you call 911 and find out no one is coming to help you. Yes, I did recently listen to the P&S episode about non-standard defensive weapons that DB was just on.

I have not listened to this yet, but that seems like a reasonable position. I still want a reload available.

[WobblyPossum]

I like the combination of Velcro and the Vang Comp shotgun cards. TCinVA has posted about why they’re superior to the other elastic side saddle options.

[TheRoland]

I like the combination of Velcro and the Vang Comp shotgun cards. TCinVA has posted about why they’re superior to the other elastic side saddle options.

I searched but couldn't come up with a detailed post. Are you willing to comment on this again TCinVA?

I was eyeing the much smaller 4-shell estac cards but they don't have a great reputation for staying viable long term.

[Flyboytim]

Yes, I did recently listen to the P&S episode about non-standard defensive weapons that DB was just on.

Hey there DanM...
Can you provide a link to the P&S episode of which you refer to here???
TIA,
Tim

[WobblyPossum]

Hey there DanM...
Can you provide a link to the P&S episode of which you refer to here???
TIA,
Tim

Here’s a link to the YouTube video (https://youtu.be/VX04M0MsqCM). I don’t remember how to embed videos directly into a post.

[vaspence]

I searched but couldn't come up with a detailed post. Are you willing to comment on this again TCinVA?

I was eyeing the much smaller 4-shell estac cards but they don't have a great reputation for staying viable long term.

Not TC (but I did take his class!). On his recommendation I purchased the Vang Comp shell cards and haven't looked back. I have used the same shot card and 5 Fiocchi dummy shells for practicing reloads, malfunctions, etc. hundreds of times of times in the last 2 months and it still doesn't look any different from the new ones I have. The Fiocchi dummy shells have held up great also. I am tempted to cut one down though since Vang doesn't offer a 4 or 5 round card that I'm aware of.

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[Flyboytim]

Here’s a link to the YouTube video (https://youtu.be/VX04M0MsqCM). I don’t remember how to embed videos directly into a post.

Awesome! I’ll have a listen. Thanks Dan...

[TCinVA]

I searched but couldn't come up with a detailed post. Are you willing to comment on this again @TCinVA (https://pistol-forum.com/member.php?u=4)?

I was eyeing the much smaller 4-shell estac cards but they don't have a great reputation for staying viable long term.

Spence beat me to the punch, but sure.

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I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out the best way to keep spare ammo on the gun. I tried everything out there. The Tac-Stars were functional, but would wear and require holding shells rim up. Mesa produces beautifully made side saddles that are terrible in practice. The rubber tubing that provides tension on the shells in the carrier is too stiff to get the shells out when new, hits a sweet spot after you work with it a bit that lasts for like two weeks, and then starts raining shells if you carry rim down. Requiring replacing the rubber tubing and starting the whole sad process over.

I tried the velcro shell cards and didn't find a single one that lasted more than a week of my dryfire practice.

Then I found the Vang Comp cards and gave them a shot. It was obvious how different they were from the moment I opened the package and after using it hard for literally years I haven't killed my original one yet.

The flexibility is nice because it allows you to be really aggressive in driving the shell into your hand, and it allows you to get the shell clear of the saddle earlier by letting you torque the shell out rather than requiring you to drive the shell completely out of the carrier like the rigid carriers do. This provides significant advantage in speed, but most importantly to accommodating a wider range of physiology and differences in technique that may be required due to the variance in physical makeup.

The great thing about the Vangs is that you can stretch the daylights out of the loops over and over and over again without reducing their flexibility or their ability to effectively retain shells.

They're fast, they're incredibly durable, and they're cheap.

And when I say "fast" I mean in class I regularly demonstrate starting in a low ready, one shot on target to an empty gun, an emergency reload, and a followup shot in less than 2 seconds. The actual load time is usually between 1.3 and 1.7 seconds with the 1301.

It's certainly possible to go faster with something like a Match Saver, but that's a unique manipulation for a single shell in a device that has a spotty reputation for holding on to that shell.

The Vang is far more practical because it stays on the gun, retains the shells effectively, and the emergency load manipulation works for all the shells that are carried on it so you aren't learning a dedicated manipulation for something that may not be there if the feces has hit the fan.

At the moment they only come in a 6 shell configuration, but hopefully in the near future there will be a 4 shell version forthcoming.

If you don't want to carry the full 6, I'd suggest loading the most forward four slots because they are closest to the ejection port and that eases loading a tad.

I attach mine by degreasing the receiver of my gun and laying down industrial strength velcro as shown in the photo above. This works just fine. And it, too, is cheap.

[rob_s]

I'm seeing two versions of this I think. You guys seem to be sticking it right to the gun with velcro that's adhesive-backed and stuck on. But I'm also seeing this version that looks to provide a plate to hold the velcro and then the card sticks to that?
https://vangcomp.com/product/vcs-detachable-side-ammunition-carrier/

Or do you just buy this guy, some industrial strength 1.5-2" wide velcro, and stick the velcro directly to the gun?
https://vangcomp.com/product/vcs-detachable-side-ammunition-extra-carrier/

[GJM]

I have been using the Vang product for over ten years. They are on multiple of my 14 inch 870 shotguns that have banged around boats and planes in Alaska. I believe the design was inspired by Bill Jeans, now retired, of Morrigan Consulting. Bill was formerly head of Gunsite, under Jeff, before branching out onto his own as ownership changed there. I always put Velcro on the shotgun and stuck them to that. Particularly well suited to an inertial Benelli that doesn’t always do well with things bolted to the receiver.

[GJM]

This is the Vang holder, carrying extra Brenneke slugs.

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And on a Benelli.

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[OlongJohnson]

I attach mine by degreasing the receiver of my gun and laying down industrial strength velcro as shown in the photo above. This works just fine. And it, too, is cheap.

This stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B00006IC2T/

[WobblyPossum]

This stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B00006IC2T/

That’s what I used. It’s held up well for a few years. I haven’t had to replace it yet.

[TCinVA]

Or do you just buy this guy, some industrial strength 1.5-2" wide velcro, and stick the velcro directly to the gun?
https://vangcomp.com/product/vcs-detachable-side-ammunition-extra-carrier/

Buy that one, buy the industrial strength velcro. Attach velcro directly to receiver of the gun, then just slap the carrier on there.

[TCinVA]

This stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B00006IC2T/

That's what I've bought. I usually buy it in the bigger rolls, though. But most folks aren't putting side saddles on people's shotguns in classes. Nor do they own an indecent number of shotguns that needed to have the ability to receive a side saddle.:o

[TCinVA]

Vang's side saddles are made for them by Wilderness Tactical. I'm reasonably certain Wilderness Tactical made the long defunct 3GunGear side saddles as well, but I can't prove it.

It is notable because Wilderness also makes a shell belt with the same loops:

https://www.thewilderness.com/shotgun-accessories/heavy-duty-shell-belt

It's useful for hunting, for use in class (Use the belt to feed the side saddle...keep your reps as close to what you'll be using in the real world as you can), or for having a supply of ammo that's ready to roll should you need to go mobile with your shotgun.

[rob_s]

Buy that one, buy the industrial strength velcro. Attach velcro directly to receiver of the gun, then just slap the carrier on there.


Vang's side saddles are made for them by Wilderness Tactical. I'm reasonably certain Wilderness Tactical made the long defunct 3GunGear side saddles as well, but I can't prove it.

that's good to know. I have a similar product stuck to the side of my 870 but I have no idea who made it and it's not labeled.

[GJM]

In the “blast from the past” category, I found this picture with my TX-4, now owned by Darryl, with the Vang shell holder, taken in July 2012 somewhere out on the tundra.

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[CoGT3]

Unity Tactical Hot Button worked as planned with Aridus/Magpul forend. Modlite PHL with Arisaka mount.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/1be34851b5de228b69dcb84173c4d63a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200323/2b894ca3e6e44edb06c81421ba23d35a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Octarine]

Hi, I'm new here and ready to pull the trigger on a 1301 tactical. I've owned a few Benellis in the past but I'm returning to the fold after 15 years of spending my hobby money elsewhere :)

I'm kind of torn between the black and the marine finish. I really like the idea of the increased durability and ease of maintenance. Any marine finish owners want to give their opinions? If it was a true Cerakote or NP3 finish it would not even be a question, but I am amazed at how little info there is on the "Aqua-Tech" coating.

My second question concerns the Nordic extension. I'm surprised no one has made a full length tube to replace the factory one. This would eliminate a few extra parts plus make 922r easier to manage. Is there some technical issue I'm missing?

[vaspence]

Apologies for thread drift. Does anyone know if the regular 1301 Comp Gen 2 has the updated bolt release or is that only on the Comp Pro?
Thanks!

[vaspence]

It cost me a little but in case anyone else was wondering about the Gen 2 Comp bolt release.

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[PGT]

I've got a Nordic kit somewhere from my previous 1301. I'll put it on whenever I find it.

https://i.imgur.com/aVfb2zDh.jpg

[Gray Ghost]

So, I recently bought an Aimpoint H-2 and an Aridus CROM for my Gen 2 1301T. I have two issues with this setup, and I am hoping someone here can assist me.

First, I zeroed the gun at 50 yards with slugs using the Aimpoint. It is good to go as far as that goes. When I got home, I pulled it out and went to adjust the irons to match the Aimpoint dot. That does not seem to be possible. If I look through the ghost ring aperture and center the front sight, the dot is hanging way up in the air above the front sight. I have tried to lower the rear aperture to make it work, but I am out of adjustment. The front sight does not appear adjustable for elevation. Based on my experience with AR's and similar, I expect a cowitness setup to mean that I can look through the irons, and the dot is sitting right on top of or in the middle of the the front sight. So, one of two things is going on here. Either, 1) my expectations are wrong, or 2) I installed the sight and mount wrong. Any help? Do others have the same issue?

Second, and I guess this is minor, but the sight would not fit on the mount with the included flip-up caps installed. So, I removed them. I ordered a T-1/H-1 style bikini cover. That doesn't really work either. There just isn't enough clearance around the mount and rear ghost ring for it to work. What do others use for a cover for the Aimpoint to prevent damage in storage and transport?

Thanks. Photos below.
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[TheRoland]

For cowitness, I got it close and called it good. I think my point of impact is also quite high. I might need to revist but honestly, I never found myself looking through the rear peep. It required me to put my head too far down on the stock. EDIT: Note that one of the screws adjusts the rear for elevation. In case you didn't figure that out; see https://www.aridusindustries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/crom-rem-t2-instructions.png

I do not cover my H-1. For this gun, it's on all the time and ready to use.

[Gray Ghost]

For cowitness, I got it close and called it good. I think my point of impact is also quite high. I might need to revist but honestly, I never found myself looking through the rear peep. It required me to put my head too far down on the stock. EDIT: Note that one of the screws adjusts the rear for elevation. In case you didn't figure that out; see https://www.aridusindustries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/crom-rem-t2-instructions.png

I do not cover my H-1. For this gun, it's on all the time and ready to use.

Thanks. I have the rear sight turned down as far as it will go. This may be a non issue at practical ranges anyway. I am pretty much just going to load the gun with federal flight control buckshot anyway. But I want to make sure I have it set up optimally.

[TCinVA]

So, I recently bought an Aimpoint H-2 and an Aridus CROM for my Gen 2 1301T. I have two issues with this setup, and I am hoping someone here can assist me.

First, I zeroed the gun at 50 yards with slugs using the Aimpoint. It is good to go as far as that goes. When I got home, I pulled it out and went to adjust the irons to match the Aimpoint dot. That does not seem to be possible. If I look through the ghost ring aperture and center the front sight, the dot is hanging way up in the air above the front sight. I have tried to lower the rear aperture to make it work, but I am out of adjustment. The front sight does not appear adjustable for elevation. Based on my experience with AR's and similar, I expect a cowitness setup to mean that I can look through the irons, and the dot is sitting right on top of or in the middle of the the front sight. So, one of two things is going on here. Either, 1) my expectations are wrong, or 2) I installed the sight and mount wrong. Any help? Do others have the same issue?


From the Aridus website:

" Covers must be removed to work with the H2/T2. Note: The zero of a shotgun is very dependent on the specific barrel and ammunition used. While the XS rear sight allows for a wide range of adjustment, we cannot necessarily guarantee a perfect co-witness. However, all testing has shown excellent usability with a variety of loads and guns."

Given the variations that are present in shotguns (even Berettas) and the ammo we feed into them, sooner or later you're going to run into a specimen where the variation in all those things causes some issues.

The important thing is whether or not you can get your irons zeroed on their own. If you don't have a perfect lower 1/3 cowitness but you do have a useful zero for your irons and your dot, it should be good enough to see you through.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Second, and I guess this is minor, but the sight would not fit on the mount with the included flip-up caps installed. So, I removed them. I ordered a T-1/H-1 style bikini cover. That doesn't really work either. There just isn't enough clearance around the mount and rear ghost ring for it to work. What do others use for a cover for the Aimpoint to prevent damage in storage and transport?

51867
51868

If you really want to use the bikini cover, notch or excise the rubber at 6 o'clock until it fits in place.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

If you really want to use the bikini cover, notch or excise the rubber at 6 o'clock until it fits in place.

Chuck nailed it, my solution quite sometime back.

[Doc_Glock]

So, I recently bought an Aimpoint H-2 and an Aridus CROM for my Gen 2 1301T. I have two issues with this setup, and I am hoping someone here can assist me.

First, I zeroed the gun at 50 yards with slugs using the Aimpoint. It is good to go as far as that goes. When I got home, I pulled it out and went to adjust the irons to match the Aimpoint dot. That does not seem to be possible. If I look through the ghost ring aperture and center the front sight, the dot is hanging way up in the air above the front sight. I have tried to lower the rear aperture to make it work, but I am out of adjustment. The front sight does not appear adjustable for elevation. Based on my experience with AR's and similar, I expect a cowitness setup to mean that I can look through the irons, and the dot is sitting right on top of or in the middle of the the front sight. So, one of two things is going on here. Either, 1) my expectations are wrong, or 2) I installed the sight and mount wrong. Any help? Do others have the same issue?

Second, and I guess this is minor, but the sight would not fit on the mount with the included flip-up caps installed. So, I removed them. I ordered a T-1/H-1 style bikini cover. That doesn't really work either. There just isn't enough clearance around the mount and rear ghost ring for it to work. What do others use for a cover for the Aimpoint to prevent damage in storage and transport?

1. I zeroed for slugs at 25 yards and have no trouble with co-witnessing. I am not sure if you are willing to change zeros, but that may allow for co-witness.
2. I don't do anything to cover the Aimpoint.

[BenM2Tac]

Benelli M4's (especially the H20's) are going for crazy prices on GB I might have to sell mine and pic up a 1301 anyone have a link for the best price on a Gen 2 right now?

[roman]

Hi all,

let me just say hello first. My name is Roman (36), engineer and gun enthusiast. After a long back and forth i finally got my 1301 tactical.

Unfortunately many tuning parts are not available in Europe. The Aridus Magpul foreend and the nordic components extension are two of them.

After reading through most of this thread (having a lot of time in the corona crisis;-) I have seen one try to mount a picatinny rail to the original forend with 3M doublesided tape.

I will investigate possibilities to screw a railsection on the foreend to mount a QD sling and light.
https://grovtec.com/collections/attachments-adaptors/products/keymod-picatinny-rails?variant=50151812820

Has anyone made attempts to screw anyting to the original foreend by now?

I am looking forward to the project and keep you updated on my attempts.

[Rex G]

Hi all,

let me just say hello first. My name is Roman (36), engineer and gun enthusiast. After a long back and forth i finally got my 1301 tactical.

Unfortunately many tuning parts are not available in Europe. The Aridus Magpul foreend and the nordic components extension are two of them.

After reading through most of this thread (having a lot of time in the corona crisis;-) I have seen one try to mount a picatinny rail to the original forend with 3M doublesided tape.

I will investigate possibilities to screw a railsection on the foreend to mount a QD sling and light.
https://grovtec.com/collections/attachments-adaptors/products/keymod-picatinny-rails?variant=50151812820

Has anyone made attempts to screw anyting to the original foreend by now?

I am looking forward to the project and keep you updated on my attempts.

Welcome to the forum!

I am not able to answer your question, but am following this discussion, due to personal interest.

[DamonL]

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=199968&highlight=screw#post199968

Post #55 says there may not be clearance to screw on a piece of rail.

Can these guys special order an Aridus forend in Europe?

https://www.brownells.it/epages/Italia.sf/it_IT/?ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=aridus&ICShowAllFacets=1

[GJM]

Sure would be a lot easier if Beretta offered an 18 inch barrel with open rifle sights like Benelli does. Only thing better would be if they also offered a 14 barrel with rifle sights.

[rob_s]

Sure would be a lot easier if Beretta offered an 18 inch barrel with open rifle sights like Benelli does. Only thing better would be if they also offered a 14 barrel with rifle sights.

Does Benelli still make/sell that model(s)? I had them as models Benelli 11027 (comfortech) and Benelli 11055 (regular synthetic) for which I have saved gunbroker searches but haven't seen any hits in a long time.
At least one site (https://www.eurooptic.com/benelli-m2-tactical-black-synthetic-tactical-stock-tactical-rifle-sight-185.aspx) says the latter has been discontinued.
I think maybe there's still a 18" rifle-sighted version with pistol-grip (https://www.eurooptic.com/benelli-m2-tactical-black-synthetic-pistol-grip-tactical-rifle-sight-185.aspx), which I suppose one could buy and un-fuck the stock?

This is what Benelli seems to still make
52516


This is what I think we'd all want in a 1301?
52517

[roman]

I saw that post but was wondering if anyone has tried in the meanwhile with some kind of backing plate inside or so.
I will take mine apart tomorrow and check for space in detail.

Brownells is out Nr1 source for gunparts in Europe but at the monment they seem not to accept special orders.

So lets see what I can build on the original foreend for now :-)




https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10177-Beretta-1301-Tactical&p=199968&highlight=screw#post199968

Post #55 says there may not be clearance to screw on a piece of rail.

Can these guys special order an Aridus forend in Europe?

https://www.brownells.it/epages/Italia.sf/it_IT/?ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=aridus&ICShowAllFacets=1

[GearFondler]

https://youtu.be/iuJUBaJmKTk

[roman]

Hey all.
The original foreend is actually made of pretty thin plastic but would be stable enough when backed up with a piece of sheet metal. Unfortunately the inside is made to fit perfectly around the gas system. There is not even 1/16" space for any backing plate.
I thought to weld 2 threaded bolts to a thin metal sheet and have the bolts protruding through the foreend to fix a rail to them with nuts.
Well, no space for anything!

So the front QD socket for the sling will go into the magtube from the front. The rear QD socket goes into the side of the ( also quite thin) rear stock.

For the light... that is a project to be followed up.



Hi all,

let me just say hello first. My name is Roman (36), engineer and gun enthusiast. After a long back and forth i finally got my 1301 tactical.

Unfortunately many tuning parts are not available in Europe. The Aridus Magpul foreend and the nordic components extension are two of them.

After reading through most of this thread (having a lot of time in the corona crisis;-) I have seen one try to mount a picatinny rail to the original forend with 3M doublesided tape.

I will investigate possibilities to screw a railsection on the foreend to mount a QD sling and light.
https://grovtec.com/collections/attachments-adaptors/products/keymod-picatinny-rails?variant=50151812820

Has anyone made attempts to screw anyting to the original foreend by now?

I am looking forward to the project and keep you updated on my attempts.

[Super77]

That’s good information Roman, appreciate the attempt

[vaglocker]

God damn this thread, it has pushed me over the edge, and I just ordered one. LockedLoaded.com currently has them for $799 (after you put it in the cart)

[Grey]

God damn this thread, it has pushed me over the edge, and I just ordered one. LockedLoaded.com currently has them for $799 (after you put it in the cart)

Is that the latest gen model with the shroud updates and what not?

[vaglocker]

Is that the latest gen model with the shroud updates and what not?

According to the sku I think it is a Gen 1 but not positive. For my purposes and the price I’m good with it

[Grey]

According to the sku I think it is a Gen 1 but not positive. For my purposes and the price I’m good with it

Looks to be correct, the newer model has the "C" affixed to the end of the SKU.

[TCinVA]

Lest anyone be hesitating because it's a Gen1, the Gen1 is still a wonderfully capable defensive shotgun. And at $799 that's as low as you are going to find it short of having a significant discount direct from Beretta.

[jeep45238]

Lest anyone be hesitating because it's a Gen1, the Gen1 is still a wonderfully capable defensive shotgun. And at $799 that's as low as you are going to find it short of having a significant discount direct from Beretta.

I've been holding off on this one for about.....4 years. Ordered a low priced Gen 1 tonight.


Assholes.

[GearFondler]

I've been holding off on this one for about.....4 years. Ordered a low priced Gen 1 tonight.


Assholes.Not anymore we aren't... Now you're one of us. :D

[Tom Fineis]

Anybody ordered from that website before? I'm looking for a 21" Comp version and they have them for a few bucks cheaper than dealer cost.

I'll email them but I'm wondering if they are a stocking dealer or a drop shipper. I know many distributors are running a few weeks behind right now and I am impatient.

[Claybuster]

Anybody ordered from that website before? I'm looking for a 21" Comp version and they have them for a few bucks cheaper than dealer cost.

I'll email them but I'm wondering if they are a stocking dealer or a drop shipper. I know many distributors are running a few weeks behind right now and I am impatient.

Guy at work ordered an A300 from them a few months ago, other than taking three weeks to ship it was fine.

[jeep45238]

Anybody ordered from that website before? I'm looking for a 21" Comp version and they have them for a few bucks cheaper than dealer cost.

I'll email them but I'm wondering if they are a stocking dealer or a drop shipper. I know many distributors are running a few weeks behind right now and I am impatient.

I've ordered mags from them in the past and recall them coming from them pretty quickly - based off that experience I'd gander a stocking dealer. Guess we'll see how this 1301T order goes on the timeline.

[Cory]

This is the old style. New ones have different SKUs.

OLD= J131T18, J131T18LE, J131P18LE

NEW= J131T18N, J131T18C, J131T18F, J131T18G, J131T18M, J131T18NLE

I can't afford a new gun at the moment, but even if I could I haven't seen any websites with black 1301s that have a new SKU. For me, searching for J131T18N pulls up this thread instead of sites selling it. Outside of Langdon's 1301, I've had trouble differentiating gen1 and gen 2 in the black guns. I think alot of sellers haven't updated there listings to reflect gen 2 changes. Makes it hard to tell.

When I buy I want the gen 2 for the chokes. It will be for use as social gun, but being pressed into service for a turkey hunt wouldn't be out of my realistic use.

-Cory

[DamonL]

Anybody ordered from that website before? I'm looking for a 21" Comp version and they have them for a few bucks cheaper than dealer cost.

I'll email them but I'm wondering if they are a stocking dealer or a drop shipper. I know many distributors are running a few weeks behind right now and I am impatient.

It looks like their price of $1168 is the same as others on gun broker and the same as my local gun shop.

[Tom Fineis]

It looks like their price of $1168 is the same as others on gun broker and the same as my local gun shop.

It's $969 once you add it to your cart.

[TCinVA]

I've been holding off on this one for about.....4 years. Ordered a low priced Gen 1 tonight.


Assholes.

**Angry spaghetti noises**

[SeriousStudent]

Tom Fineis Just an FYI, Ernest has a pretty neat proposal for you: https://www.langdontactical.com/ltt-1301-tactical-shotgun-gen-2-base-model-pre-order/

Ya get a free CROM, but I do not think this is a 21" model with the larger port, if that was your goal.

[Tom Fineis]

Tom Fineis Just an FYI, Ernest has a pretty neat proposal for you: https://www.langdontactical.com/ltt-1301-tactical-shotgun-gen-2-base-model-pre-order/

Ya get a free CROM, but I do not think this is a 21" model with the larger port, if that was your goal.

Thanks, I am looking for the 21" model.

[DamonL]

Hey all.
The original foreend is actually made of pretty thin plastic but would be stable enough when backed up with a piece of sheet metal. Unfortunately the inside is made to fit perfectly around the gas system. There is not even 1/16" space for any backing plate.
I thought to weld 2 threaded bolts to a thin metal sheet and have the bolts protruding through the foreend to fix a rail to them with nuts.
Well, no space for anything!

So the front QD socket for the sling will go into the magtube from the front. The rear QD socket goes into the side of the ( also quite thin) rear stock.

For the light... that is a project to be followed up.

Not sure if these might work.

https://www.brownells.it/epages/Italia.sf/it_IT/?ObjectID=70195

https://www.brownells.it/BENELLI-BLAM-LIGHT-MOUNTS-BENELLI-M4-BLAM-4-LIGHT-MOUNT-CORPS-TECHNOLOGY-GROUP-Black-Oxide-100007661

[Octarine]

Is it just supply and demand or is there a technical reason no one offers a full length tube instead of an extension?

[Claybuster]

Tom Fineis Just an FYI, Ernest has a pretty neat proposal for you: https://www.langdontactical.com/ltt-1301-tactical-shotgun-gen-2-base-model-pre-order/

Ya get a free CROM, but I do not think this is a 21" model with the larger port, if that was your goal.

I just ordered this setup, after adding up all the parts I didn’t see how I could go wrong with the deal and I don’t have to hunt for anything, it’ll just show up. :D I really wanted the FDE stock and handguard though.

[OlongJohnson]

Is it just supply and demand or is there a technical reason no one offers a full length tube instead of an extension?

I've wondered that. I assume it's at least perceived supply and demand, as there area options for such with Benellis. Now that the 1301 has been the new hotness for several years, maybe that will change. There is one possible technical issue, which is that the gas piston uses the OD of the mag tube as a guide rod as well as sealing surface, and the tube seems to have more than basic anodizing on it (maybe a Teflon sealer?). I don't know whether that would be a show stopper for an aftermarket tube, or just nobody's tried.

[SeriousStudent]

I just ordered this setup, after adding up all the parts I didn’t see how I could go wrong with the deal and I don’t have to hunt for anything, it’ll just show up. :D I really wanted the FDE stock and handguard though.

It's definitely the "easy button" when it comes to the shotgun.

[roman]

For now i have solved the QD swivel problem front and rear.
Added these nice sockets that are held in place with a nut from the inside.

I am thingking about a 3D printed flashlight holder as it will not be in constant use but would only have to hold up for once in a life time :-)

52948

[TCinVA]

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-69906-Strmlght-Shotgun-Rem870/dp/B001G61K74/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=streamlight+870+mount&qid=1588108239&sr=8-1

While you could 3D print one, I can tell you that the Streamlight 870 mount has been on my 1301 through thousands of shells without issue. It's cheap and effective.

[ZlikeZebra]

Finally decided that my collection of Walther's (PPQ, PPS,..) and my 10/22 wouldn't cut it during the next Zombie Apocalypse (ok maybe I played too many rounds Call of Duty III with my kids / girlfriend - the latter really kicks my a...) - so I went for a semi-automatic (more seriously I have been looking for a tactical shotgun for a while , and after considering the typical Benelli M2/M4 suspects settled on the 1301). I got a great price on a Gen 1 at GunPrime and they shipped the next day. So while I am waiting for it to show up at my local club/dealer (tomorrow ... yeah) I have been loading up on ammo and looking for some accessories to make it even better for its intended HD purpose (and some range time).

Among other things I am planning to get a Railmaster 204 (Green Laser) - which I expect to use both on my 1301 and my PPQ - but it seems close to impossible to get the Extension Kit by Nordic Components (and yes I rather not have the mag extend beyond the barrel). Any leads on where to get it (without having to shorten a tube) or when it might become available again?

There is an alternative kit at boatach (KZ Beretta 1301 Tactical Magazine Tube Extension Kit) but I haven't seen a lot of reviews and it is definitely a more clunky solution.

Any thoughts / suggestions?

Z

[Gray Ghost]

Finally decided that my collection of Walther's (PPQ, PPS,..) and my 10/22 wouldn't cut it during the next Zombie Apocalypse (ok maybe I played too many rounds Call of Duty III with my kids / girlfriend - the latter really kicks my a...) - so I went for a semi-automatic (more seriously I have been looking for a tactical shotgun for a while , and after considering the typical Benelli M2/M4 suspects settled on the 1301). I got a great price on a Gen 1 at GunPrime and they shipped the next day. So while I am waiting for it to show up at my local club/dealer (tomorrow ... yeah) I have been loading up on ammo and looking for some accessories to make it even better for its intended HD purpose (and some range time).

Among other things I am planning to get a Railmaster 204 (Green Laser) - which I expect to use both on my 1301 and my PPQ - but it seems close to impossible to get the Extension Kit by Nordic Components (and yes I rather not have the mag extend beyond the barrel). Any leads on where to get it (without having to shorten a tube) or when it might become available again?

There is an alternative kit at boatach (KZ Beretta 1301 Tactical Magazine Tube Extension Kit) but I haven't seen a lot of reviews and it is definitely a more clunky solution.

Any thoughts / suggestions?

Z

Congratulations in the gun. You might consider skipping the laser and getting a sling and a light. Preferably from the Wilderness and Surefire respectively.

[ZlikeZebra]

Thanks.

The Crimson Trace CMR-204 Rail Master is a combination of Laser and a light (and I really want to try the laser on my Walther PPQ). Do I need a sling given that I want to mainly use it for HD purposes? I did order a shotgun card (MidwayUSA - based on what was available) and got the industrial strength velcro (recommended on this site - thank you) to go with. Still - I really want a mag extension - and I need the rail to go with it to mount the Laser/Light. I will look at Wilderness and Surefire.


Congratulations in the gun. You might consider skipping the laser and getting a sling and a light. Preferably from the Wilderness and Surefire respectively.

[Super77]

For those looking for extension tubes Lancer makes a nice one in carbon fiber

[GyroF-16]

For those looking for extension tubes Lancer makes a nice one in carbon fiber

You got me curious, even though I have a Nordic extension...
Lancer is out of stock on the CF +2 and +3 tubes.

[Gray Ghost]

Thanks.

The Crimson Trace CMR-204 Rail Master is a combination of Laser and a light (and I really want to try the laser on my Walther PPQ). Do I need a sling given that I want to mainly use it for HD purposes? I did order a shotgun card (MidwayUSA - based on what was available) and got the industrial strength velcro (recommended on this site - thank you) to go with. Still - I really want a mag extension - and I need the rail to go with it to mount the Laser/Light. I will look at Wilderness and Surefire.

Have you had any formal defensive shotgun training? You might consider taking a class before spending money on accessories. It will give you a chance to run your gun under a bit of stress, nail down the manual of arms and mechanics of operating it, and see what gear works for others.

There are some who will tell you that you don't need a sling on a dedicated home defense gun. Personally, I disagree. The sling is to the shotgun what the holster is to the pistol. It gives you a place to put it when you need your hands free while maintaining control. If you need to lock/unlock a door, make a phone call, or render medical aid, I think the sling is important. If you envision a scenario where you need to carry the gun outside your house, the sling becomes essential. A slung long gun presents a very different image and threat profile to those around you than one in your hands.

I don't have a mag extension on my 1301. Putting an extension on a foreign made semi-auto shotgun arguably subjects you to the provisions of 18 U.S.C. 922(r), and I don't want to swap out a bunch of other parts to be in compliance. I think the factory capacity is plenty.

Finally, if you want an aiming device other than the factory sights, a red dot sight such as an Aimpoint micro is a much better choice than a visible laser.

[roman]

So I got me a 1.5 mm (~1/16") sheet matal, drilled and filed quite a bit...
Here I have a custom fit picatinny rail or alternatively a QD mount for the Beretta 1301.
With 1.5mm the spring powered pin isstill protruding enough so that the ratcheting system is still working and will keep the mag tube in place.

If any one wants details or measurements to make one... let me know.

53088

[ZlikeZebra]

I did shoot some clay (skeet, trap) years ago - but you are right HD is not the same. So good suggestion on the training - thanks. I looked at the Aimpoint (yikes pricey ...). I really want the laser for my PPQ - and am just thinking to get the combo with a light so I can use it on either Pistol or Shotgun. Good points on the sling that I hadn't considered - so I will keep that mind and refrain from more purchases (hard to do with a new gun) until I learn more about HD use.

Thanks

Z



Have you had any formal defensive shotgun training? You might consider taking a class before spending money on accessories. It will give you a chance to run your gun under a bit of stress, nail down the manual of arms and mechanics of operating it, and see what gear works for others.

There are some who will tell you that you don't need a sling on a dedicated home defense gun. Personally, I disagree. The sling is to the shotgun what the holster is to the pistol. It gives you a place to put it when you need your hands free while maintaining control. If you need to lock/unlock a door, make a phone call, or render medical aid, I think the sling is important. If you envision a scenario where you need to carry the gun outside your house, the sling becomes essential. A slung long gun presents a very different image and threat profile to those around you than one in your hands.

I don't have a mag extension on my 1301. Putting an extension on a foreign made semi-auto shotgun arguably subjects you to the provisions of 18 U.S.C. 922(r), and I don't want to swap out a bunch of other parts to be in compliance. I think the factory capacity is plenty.

Finally, if you want an aiming device other than the factory sights, a red dot sight such as an Aimpoint micro is a much better choice than a visible laser.

[DamonL]

I searched this thread and found several people bought the Briley metal charging handle. Is that still a good one? Has anyone had problems with that one? Is there a better one?

[Gray Ghost]

I searched this thread and found several people bought the Briley metal charging handle. Is that still a good one? Has anyone had problems with that one? Is there a better one?

I'd also be interested to know if anybody has had a failure with the stock handle.

[DamonL]

Someone posted a picture of a broken factory handle in this thread. The plastic portion was broken off. Post #2928.

[Beat Trash]

Lest anyone be hesitating because it's a Gen1, the Gen1 is still a wonderfully capable defensive shotgun. And at $799 that's as low as you are going to find it short of having a significant discount direct from Beretta.

Sorry to ask, but without reading through 368 pages of this topic, wasn’t there an after market part to add to the boot release button to prevent the button being accidentally pushed and causing a malfunction?

For $799, I’m really tempted to pick one of these up. So long as I can fix the potential issue with the bolt release button/double feed issue.

[OlongJohnson]

Sorry to ask, but without reading through 368 pages of this topic, wasn’t there an after market part to add to the boot release button to prevent the button being accidentally pushed and causing a malfunction?

For $799, I’m really tempted to pick one of these up. So long as I can fix the potential issue with the bolt release button/double feed issue.

Originally created by Tau Dev (aka, Tom_Jones, the former owner of this site), it's now available direct from Beretta.

https://www.berettausa.com/en-us/beretta-1301-bolt-shroud-kit/eu00074/

[Gray Ghost]

Sorry to ask, but without reading through 368 pages of this topic, wasn’t there an after market part to add to the boot release button to prevent the button being accidentally pushed and causing a malfunction?

For $799, I’m really tempted to pick one of these up. So long as I can fix the potential issue with the bolt release button/double feed issue.

Short answer: Yes. There are several people making such a part, and for a while Beretta was selling on on their website.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Sorry to ask, but without reading through 368 pages of this topic, wasn’t there an after market part to add to the boot release button to prevent the button being accidentally pushed and causing a malfunction?

For $799, I’m really tempted to pick one of these up. So long as I can fix the potential issue with the bolt release button/double feed issue.

I went w/ Adam's (Aridus Industries) version for both of my gen 1's & like all of the products I've bought from him over the yrs. him I've had ZERO issues w/ mine.

[delphidoc]

Sorry to ask, but without reading through 368 pages of this topic, wasn’t there an after market part to add to the boot release button to prevent the button being accidentally pushed and causing a malfunction?

For $799, I’m really tempted to pick one of these up. So long as I can fix the potential issue with the bolt release button/double feed issue.


I bought a Gen 1 that already came with the Gen 2 bolt release. You might want to get the gun first before buying the release kit.

[Beat Trash]

Thanks for the responses guys.

[That Guy]

Among other things I am planning to get a Railmaster 204 (Green Laser) - which I expect to use both on my 1301 and my PPQ

Do you intend to swap the same laser between two guns? Wouldn't you have to re-zero it every time you move it from one gun to the other?

[ZlikeZebra]

Yes I am planning to swap it but not frequently (basically I will decide on which gun I like it better). In any case - yes I will have to zero the laser/light each time I move . I just like having the option to switch.


Do you intend to swap the same laser between two guns? Wouldn't you have to re-zero it every time you move it from one gun to the other?

[Tom Fineis]

For now i have solved the QD swivel problem front and rear.
Added these nice sockets that are held in place with a nut from the inside.

I am thingking about a 3D printed flashlight holder as it will not be in constant use but would only have to hold up for once in a life time :-)

52948


Can you explain that front cap swivel a bit more?

[roman]

Can you explain that front cap swivel a bit more?

Hi,
I basically drilled a 1/2" hole in the front of the tube and inserted a QD socket. It is then held in place by a nut from the inside. I had to grind the edges of the nut a bit to fit into the tube but then it worked realy fine.
To tighten it up i simply pinched a flat head screw driver between the nut and the tube and used the hex wrench from the outside to turn the QD cup. Below is a sketch of how it looks.
53298

Used the same on the buttstock.
I used a model just like this, just from an european manufacturer (Halder push n go) but the system is identical to the grovtec:
https://grovtec.com/collections/qd-mounts-bases/products/hollow-stock-push-button-base-gthm198-coming-soon

[DLWinner]

I just ordered a 1301 Tactical. I’ve been wanting on for awhile now. I’m assuming it’s a Gen 1 because the price was so low.

[Super77]

Roman what is the extension tube you are using in post 3705 above?

[jeep45238]

For those looking for extension tubes Lancer makes a nice one in carbon fiber

I was just looking at those. Any confirmation that they do indeed work for the tactical model?

[roman]

Roman what is the extension tube you are using in post 3705 above?

Hi Super77,
The extension tube I use is a +2 original from Beretta. It has a steel thread and the tube is made from reenforced polimer. Wallthickness is kind of 1/10" and it feels very solid.
Unfortunately it is not cylindrical and therefore normal clamps for barrel and extension don`t work with this one.

[roman]

So finally I finished a nice option to mount QD sling and also light in a convenient spot.

I also made a little gif of the making process.

Enjoy...

https://imgur.com/wz5jdNU

53316

[Trukinjp13]

I am looking into buying a gen2. Is the Langdon upgrades worth the extra 700$?? Honestly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GearFondler]

I am looking into buying a gen2. Is the Langdon upgrades worth the extra 700$?? Honestly.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes, if you ever see yourself wanting those extras.

The Nordic +2 is a PITA to track down on your own and then you probably shouldn't install it until you have already acquired and installed everything else required to comply with 922R.

The SGA stock is a no-brainer for any defensive shotgun and you will want it after you try it.

The Zhukov fore end is arguably a luxury item, BUT it makes mounting a light much easier and you're gonna need it for 922R.

The CROM mount is The Answer if you want an RDS mounted, and why wouldn't you? And it still gives you irons if you have to wait to buy the RDS.

The Q-DC is not necessary but it's incredibly well designed and built. It's only negative IMHO is the weight... Shell Cards from Vang Comp are the right answer if the weight is a concern.

If you add up the cost of purchasing all these items yourself you're going to spend the same amount of money as LTT charges, plus add on the time and aggravation of finding them in stock and installing them yourself. I did it that way because the LTT was not available last year but if I was starting over I would hit the LTT Easy Button every time.

[Super77]

I am looking into buying a gen2. Is the Langdon upgrades worth the extra 700$?? Honestly.

https://i.imgur.com/mO7e9XL.jpg

I have the Lancer +2. Hopefully this picture doesn’t show up huge, but yeah it fits. Full disclosure I haven’t test fired with the +2 yet but it installed and felt like every other mag tube extension I’ve encountered. Feels like a very high quality unit and is very lightweight. Lancer has been making carbon fiber parts for firearms and aerospace for a long time.

Also FWIW my Gen 2 purchased December 2019 is not threaded for a choke. Not a big deal at all since I would never have used one but thought I’d add it to the knowledge base nonetheless.

[GyroF-16]

https://i.imgur.com/mO7e9XL.jpg

I have the Lancer +2. Hopefully this picture doesn’t show up huge, but yeah it fits. Full disclosure I haven’t test fired with the +2 yet but it installed and felt like every other mag tube extension I’ve encountered. Feels like a very high quality unit and is very lightweight. Lancer has been making carbon fiber parts for firearms and aerospace for a long time.

Also FWIW my Gen 2 purchased December 2019 is not threaded for a choke. Not a big deal at all since I would never have used one but thought I’d add it to the knowledge base nonetheless.

I’d be interested to see how the muzzle blast abrades the top of that carbon fiber. The Nordic +2 tube that I have doesn’t extend quite as far, and some light use (maybe 70 rounds) has taken a good deal of the finish off of the side nearest the muzzle.

[OlongJohnson]

I would try foil tape, available in the HVAC section of most hardware stores.

[Trukinjp13]

https://i.imgur.com/mO7e9XL.jpg

I have the Lancer +2. Hopefully this picture doesn’t show up huge, but yeah it fits. Full disclosure I haven’t test fired with the +2 yet but it installed and felt like every other mag tube extension I’ve encountered. Feels like a very high quality unit and is very lightweight. Lancer has been making carbon fiber parts for firearms and aerospace for a long time.

Also FWIW my Gen 2 purchased December 2019 is not threaded for a choke. Not a big deal at all since I would never have used one but thought I’d add it to the knowledge base nonetheless.

Thank you. Because the threaded choke was appealing to me.


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[ZlikeZebra]

I was able to order this elusive kit at opticsplanet.com - paying not quite full price (5% off coupon - using the honey extension in my browser). While the product availability showed estimated shipping 6-10 months on the site - my actual order then specifies a 5/30/20 expected ship date. We will see- I can always cancel in case the kit becomes available somewhere earlier or for a better price.

[roman]

Thank you. Because the threaded choke was appealing to me.


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About threades chokes in Gen2 1301 tacticals:

There are both options.
I went for clean cylinder my self but there was an option to get threaded chokes for an extra of 200 bucks or so.

So I guess one has to look closely or ask the dealer to double check.

[BigT]

I’d be interested to see how the muzzle blast abrades the top of that carbon fiber. The Nordic +2 tube that I have doesn’t extend quite as far, and some light use (maybe 70 rounds) has taken a good deal of the finish off of the side nearest the muzzle.
The Briley Carbon fibre Tube on my M2SP extends past the muzzle a lot.


Far north of 10k rounds with no issues.

[GyroF-16]

The Briley Carbon fibre Tube on my M2SP extends past the muzzle a lot.


Far north of 10k rounds with no issues.

Wow- that’s great! CF is tough stuff - they should use it to make important stuff like airplanes. :rolleyes:

[jeep45238]

Wow- that’s great! CF is tough stuff - they should use it to make important stuff like airplanes. :rolleyes:

I may have made a car body out of it using a mold from drywall mud before.....and some structural components while the Boeing Dreamliner was in the startup phase circa 2007...

[ralph]

Quick question for those of you who know more than I do...Without reading all 374-5 pages of this thread, I’d like to mount a red dot on my 1301 tactical, and was wondering if the mount made by aridus industries for a aimpoint micro would work with a vortex crossfire? I have the crossfire already mounted on the rail, (I’ve had it for awhile) but would like to co-witness the sights. Looking at Aridus’s site, the footprint of the micro mount and the Vortex mount look very close, so, would this work, or am I shit outta luck?

[TCinVA]

Quick question for those of you who know more than I do...Without reading all 374-5 pages of this thread, I’d like to mount a red dot on my 1301 tactical, and was wondering if the mount made by aridus industries for a aimpoint micro would work with a vortex crossfire?


It works with any optic that has the same mounting setup as the micro Aimpoints. I'm not familiar with the Crossfire, but I've seen a number of different optics mounted on the Aridus CROM for the Aimpoint ranging from Aimpoints to Holosuns to Romeos to Primary Arms sights.

[roman]

Quick question for those of you who know more than I do...Without reading all 374-5 pages of this thread, I’d like to mount a red dot on my 1301 tactical, and was wondering if the mount made by aridus industries for a aimpoint micro would work with a vortex crossfire? I have the crossfire already mounted on the rail, (I’ve had it for awhile) but would like to co-witness the sights. Looking at Aridus’s site, the footprint of the micro mount and the Vortex mount look very close, so, would this work, or am I shit outta luck?

Have a look here. They are listing a good overview of compatible reddots...

https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/

[Balisong]

Have a look here. They are listing a good overview of compatible reddots...

https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/

Wow that is a terrific resource thank you! I bookmarked it. It will be useful as I settle in the configuration of optic/mount option I want to order for the 1301 Langdon. I haven't been up on the latest red dot developments, and I know aimpoints are GTG from a reliable/rugged/battery life standpoint. How are these newer Holosuns for use on a shotgun? Do they hold up ok? I always loved the circle dot articles of an eotech but hated the battery life of them. These holosuns seem to have fixed that and have solar capabilities on top of that, so that has my attention. Think I'd like to try one unless you guys say they suck in which case I'll just stick with an aimpoint.

[ralph]

Have a look here. They are listing a good overview of compatible reddots...

https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/

Thank you!!!!! That answers my question, I was reluctant to buy the mount not knowing for sure if it would work, I know Aridus would’ve refunded my money if it didn’t work, but, I wasn’t going to buy unless I knew it would work.. Looks like I’m going to be ordering one, now..Thanks again!

[TCinVA]

How are these newer Holosuns for use on a shotgun? Do they hold up ok?

Because people kept asking that question I bought the cheapest one I could find that wasn't total garbage: A primary arms micro dot (https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-advanced-micro-dot-with-push-buttons-and-up-to-50k-hour-battery-life-red-dot). I've had it on my primary 1301 for about a year and a half without failure. I'm familiar with a few others that are on 1301's and they're all still going strong, too.

Obviously my primary recommendation for a gun used for serious social purposes is to stick with the proven reliability and durability of an Aimpoint. But I can tell you that the low end of the market has improved dramatically in the last 10 years.

The biggest issue with the cheaper optics is going to be QC. Some of them are good. So buy from someone that has good customer service.

I think Holosun is having some issues shipping product of late due to current events.

[Alohanole]

Hi guys. I've seen conflicting info and wonder if anyone can help. Are they making the 1301 Tactical with the pistol grip currently (Gen2)? I thought Beretta had phased out the J131P18NLE item number, but I see it on a few sites. One of the gunbroker listings that recently sold showed J13T18NLE, without the pistol grip stock. If they aren't making the Gen 2 guns with the pistol grip, what is the difference between a plain Jane 1301 tactical, and the J13T18NLE model? Thanks!

[23JAZ]

Quick question for those of you who know more than I do...Without reading all 374-5 pages of this thread, I’d like to mount a red dot on my 1301 tactical, and was wondering if the mount made by aridus industries for a aimpoint micro would work with a vortex crossfire? I have the crossfire already mounted on the rail, (I’ve had it for awhile) but would like to co-witness the sights. Looking at Aridus’s site, the footprint of the micro mount and the Vortex mount look very close, so, would this work, or am I shit outta luck?

Yes it will. I have the crossfire and looked into this a few months ago.

[OlongJohnson]

Hi guys. I've seen conflicting info and wonder if anyone can help. Are they making the 1301 Tactical with the pistol grip currently (Gen2)? I thought Beretta had phased out the J131P18NLE item number, but I see it on a few sites. One of the gunbroker listings that recently sold showed J13T18NLE, without the pistol grip stock. If they aren't making the Gen 2 guns with the pistol grip, what is the difference between a plain Jane 1301 tactical, and the J13T18NLE model? Thanks!

AFAIK, the LE comes with a mag tube extension installed. Because of the 922(R) legal issues around that, it's intended by Beretta to be sold only to qualified LEOs. Not all dealers are compliant.

[philpac33]

I did it! Saved my shekels for what seems like forever, resisted urges along the way for various LPVOs and SMGs, and now have the disposable means for my LTT 1301! Put down the deposit for the Beretta preorder, current estimate of late July arrival. That gives me a few months to scrounge up a supply of 00 Flite Control and order a new dot. Pretty excited but these waits kill me!

[Alohanole]

AFAIK, the LE comes with a mag tube extension installed. Because of the 922(R) legal issues around that, it's intended by Beretta to be sold only to qualified LEOs. Not all dealers are compliant.
Thanks for the info. I thought the same thing, until I saw this listing on GB: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/867397503
It shows the label on the box, as J13T18NLE, without the pistol grip and without the mag tube extension. It went for a premium price too, and I can't figure out why.

[vaglocker]

Thanks for the info. I thought the same thing, until I saw this listing on GB: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/867397503
It shows the label on the box, as J13T18NLE, without the pistol grip and without the mag tube extension. It went for a premium price too, and I can't figure out why.

Isn't that one just a regular gen2? Just purchased a new gen1 for about half that price.

[LittleLebowski]

Because people kept asking that question I bought the cheapest one I could find that wasn't total garbage: A primary arms micro dot (https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-advanced-micro-dot-with-push-buttons-and-up-to-50k-hour-battery-life-red-dot). I've had it on my primary 1301 for about a year and a half without failure. I'm familiar with a few others that are on 1301's and they're all still going strong, too.

Obviously my primary recommendation for a gun used for serious social purposes is to stick with the proven reliability and durability of an Aimpoint. But I can tell you that the low end of the market has improved dramatically in the last 10 years.

The biggest issue with the cheaper optics is going to be QC. Some of them are good. So buy from someone that has good customer service.

I think Holosun is having some issues shipping product of late due to current events.

That's exactly what I did with my 1301 and it's been on the same battery for over two years and held zero and worked properly in your class.

[sigfla]

I just cancelled my Nordic follower order and placed one from CarrierComp. I am familiar with them as a top producer of M4 tubes since I also have the other Italian Tac gun from Beretta/Benelli. I really wish they didn't do that call back thing. Its annoying but their products are worth it. I also have a lot of items from Freedom Fighter Tac so they get my positive seal of approval as well.

I have a backorder for the last 2-3 weeks for a 1301 Tactical Nordic +2 extension. Does anyone have a sense on how long they usually take to fulfill? I know times are weird but I have seen 6-12 months to 3-6 weeks. Just wondering how they usually are on delivery times.

[JSGlock34]

Brownells has the GEN1 for $899 for Memorial Day...

https://www.brownells.com/firearms/shotguns/semi-auto/1301-tactical-shotgun-12-gauge-18-5in-j131t18-prod88797.aspx?avs%7cSpecial-Filters_1=Salezz1zzClearance

[Navin Johnson]

And for 30 more dollars you can have a Gen 2

[41magfan]

https://www.smga.com/beretta/1301-tactical-12-ga-9889

[GyroF-16]

https://www.smga.com/beretta/1301-tactical-12-ga-9889

Nice!
Makes it tempting to get a second one.

[John Hearne]

https://www.smga.com/beretta/1301-tactical-12-ga-9889

Why do you people do this to me???

[Flyboytim]

Why do you people do this to me???

Because someone did it to us... 😜👍

[CGA]

Probably not a deal breaker to most but thought this was worth mentioning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPPT8i8IvwI

[sigfla]

Here is my wish list in order:
1. A machined or polymer offset/cantilever Scout mount like vlad posted here earlier
2. A scout compatible rail section from Nordic instead of the short non compatible one they now offer
3. An offset/cantilever rail with a scout compatible rail section like the Magpul MOE scout mount

[delphidoc]

Probably not a deal breaker to most but thought this was worth mentioning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPPT8i8IvwI


First I've heard of this. I guess don't drop your gun on the charging handle.

Does anybody sell a 1-piece handle? In the comments someone said Briley used to but now sells a 2-piece handle.

Is Yeager on meds now? He seemed unobnoxious for a change LOL.

[Ryanweis777]

So I was wiping down my 1301 tonight with some clp. This nasty smelling orange residue was coming off of my action rods that connect to the bolt. At first I thought it was rust which would be concerning because I always clean and oil it after I shoot. I looked at in on some good lighting and there was absolutely nothing. Just the nice smooth black finish. But as I kept wiping, my white rags kept turning orange. Has anyone else had this? Is it something with the coating on the bolt assembly?

[Cory]

And for 30 more dollars you can have a Gen 2

Where? I've yet to see anyone offer a gen 2 with chokes for that price.

-Cory

[Navin Johnson]

Where? I've yet to see anyone offer a gen 2 with chokes for that price.

-Cory

G&r tactical had them at $930 but now they're $999.

They must have just raised it several days ago

[Cory]

G&r tactical had them at $930 but now they're $999.

They must have just raised it several days ago

Ahh. Last I checked G&R they were stock gen 1's, but that was sometime ago. I've had good experience with them before, I would definitely do business with them again.

I feel weird, but chokes are a significant thing for me.

-Cory

[TXBK]

Ahh. Last I checked G&R they were stock gen 1's, but that was sometime ago. I've had good experience with them before, I would definitely do business with them again.

I feel weird, but chokes are a significant thing for me.

-Cory

I agree. G&R is good to go, but I pre-ordered a Gen 2 from LTT with the options I knew I wanted (needed). A barrel threaded for a choke is essential for me, because I have a Salvo waiting.

[Navin Johnson]

Ahh. Last I checked G&R they were stock gen 1's, but that was sometime ago. I've had good experience with them before, I would definitely do business with them again.

I feel weird, but chokes are a significant thing for me.

-Cory

I have a line on a gen1 locally for $800 ish....but I kinda want chokes.... probably no need on a tac version though

Really think I want a 21-in comp..... Can put a red dot on it and can do anything that the 18.5 can do..... And more flexible for future applications.

[sigfla]

Installed my new Blitz front sight today. Had to use the feeler gauges to make sure it was on straight but looks good and bright. The triangle should be precise. It is higher than stock but as others have used it I think it’s only a click or 2 adjustment on the rear. I was surprised beretta doesn’t use a lock washer but at least they have a locking nut so that should hopefully be it. I didn’t use any thread locker. My CROM arrived today as well but my RMR is out of town so it will have to wait till the weekend

[Super77]

Any idea if one of these barrels can be threaded for a choke?

[OlongJohnson]

I showed it to one of Briley's gunsmiths. He said he wouldn't be able to say without putting it in the lathe and seeing if the front sight base cleared the jaws. But I wasn't ready to spend the money for him to cut it if it worked (I'm kinda OK with no chokes and FC on this gun), so we didn't find out.

[sigfla]

So I am still trying to finalize my light setup. I have a couple more options to try but ideally I want a surefire 300 with a remote switch. It occurred to me that I had a Magpul cantilever scout mount lying around. I attached it and it looks like it’s going to work. Ideally I would prefer something a hair higher to clear the Handguard better and with tabs that lock it down on either side of the clamps edges since it’s only held by one screw. However it is tight and it’s not moving as it sits. Sorry for the lighting. The wife is asleep and I took the pics quick.

[GearFondler]

^^^ I'd bet it will rotate under recoil, but maybe not... Cool idea anyway.

[Poconnor]

What barrel clamp is that? Is it possible to use longer bolts to secure the magpul mount to the clamp using the same holes in the clamp. Drill the magpul mount to match?

[sigfla]

What barrel clamp is that? Is it possible to use longer bolts to secure the magpul mount to the clamp using the same holes in the clamp. Drill the magpul mount to match?

It is a Nordic clamp. The screw holes on the Magpul are super close but not exact. Its about a 1/4 width of a screw head off. You could drill a new hole in the center but I am not sure how much that would weaken it. There are a few ways you could prob make it work though. Pity b/c the one thing I believe the Nordic clamp requires is a cantilever mount. The Scout interface on the Magpul is a bonus. I dunno if a 3d print guy could make something up that would hold up to the strain but so far this approach looks good.

Ideally a similar mount but with correct screw spacing (either using the 2 nordic clamp screws or a combination of one mount screw and the center accessory screw hole) would work. If you used the 2 mounting holes on the Nordic you would have to shorten one Nordic screw so you could mount the cantilever rail from the other side using the same hole. I am not sure you are gaining much from the 870 type mount but I'll hopefully know for sure later today. Ideally I had hoped to use the Scout interface vs a Picatinny rail clamp.

[sigfla]

Ok, minor update. Taking into account GearFondler's comment I tried to twist the mount by hand. It will rotate with some force. It likely wouldn't hold up to recoil. I decided to shave the recoil lugs down so the bottom was flat and I would have more surface area contacting the clamp. This caused the mount to interfere in the bottom rear corner with the forearm slightly. A quick shave with the dremel to take that corner down a bit and it all fits together nice and tight. It is very low profile and would be even more so with a Scout mounted light. The light is aimed well and not too far outboard of the barrel even with a clamp mount. This particular light isn't hitting my new front sight so it won't charge the glow in the dark chevron. I little wider throw or perhaps a Scout mounted light will help recharge the front sight. My IWC mount on my M4 does that and its nice b/c its just enough light to charge the sight but the majority is on target.

Shaving down the lugs allowed for a lot more solid contact with the clamp surface and it isn't budging now when I try to torque on it. I am sure that others can come up with a more solid way to mount this. I suppose you could even build up some epoxy or glue a block where it overhangs the clamp and that would prohibit twist even more. Ideally a guy with a drill press could drill out a secondary screw hole or even fix the two existing ones but that would bring the mount further forward. The forearm interference would no longer be an issue then but the light might be too far forward to use anything short. I will be testing it out this weekend so we shall see how it holds up with my cheapo S&W light. My intention is to use a Scout light with a remote so light placement isn't as critical as long as its not past the muzzle.

[sigfla]

FYI I just got this email notification

[GyroF-16]

FYI I just got this email notification

Already out of stock

[sigfla]

That was fast. Hit my inbox at 9:45 am.

[Coyotesfan97]

That’s exactly what happened to me until one time I saw the e-mail notification almost immediately after it was sent. You have to move fast!

[sigfla]

Taking a defensive shotgun class tomorrow. I am using my M4 and my 1301. I’ll have a chance to test the light mount as it sits. I did however come up with a cleaner and more solid solution. If you could screw the Magpul mount to a flat bar that would extend its length a bit and also act as a short spacer to lift the mount off of the clamp slightly. You could use several of the Nordic screws to attach it to the clamp. This would then allow you to control where (how far back) the rail section sits on the forearm. Using a Surefire pro model light you could then adjust its placement hugging as close or as far from the barrel as you wanted mounting it to the rail section. I am going to see if I can fab something up later.

Vlad’s angle iron mount inspired me but I am just no good at working with metal.

[AOITC589]

Hi everyone, new to the forum. Really glad i found this thread. Great info and feedback 🍻

I'm in the market for a semi auto and the 1301 tac is at the top of the list right now. Want to ask a quick question, might be stupid, but I rather be sure.

I don't like the bulk of the factory rear sight and would like to replace it with an Aridus CROM. Likely won't mount a RDS, but rather use the ghost ring (Rob Haught Mod). From pictures it looks like the CROM is lower than the factory rear sight. Is there enough adjustment in the rear ghost ring sight on the CROM to still use with factory front sight? Such that you can still zero the ghost ring sights?

Thanks!

[delphidoc]

60 in stock as of Saturday night

https://www.midwestsupplygroup.com/nordic-beretta-1301-tactical-kit

(https://www.midwestsupplygroup.com/nordic-beretta-1301-tactical-kit)

[Balisong]

Taking a defensive shotgun class tomorrow. I am using my M4 and my 1301. I’ll have a chance to test the light mount as it sits. I did however come up with a cleaner and more solid solution. If you could screw the Magpul mount to a flat bar that would extend its length a bit and also act as a short spacer to lift the mount off of the clamp slightly. You could use several of the Nordic screws to attach it to the clamp. This would then allow you to control where (how far back) the rail section sits on the forearm. Using a Surefire pro model light you could then adjust its placement hugging as close or as far from the barrel as you wanted mounting it to the rail section. I am going to see if I can fab something up later.

Vlad’s angle iron mount inspired me but I am just no good at working with metal.

Have fun at the class, let us know how the light/mount works. In fact if you want, we have an After Action Report sub forum here where you could post your experiences and thoughts of the class.

[sigfla]

Have fun at the class, let us know how the light/mount works. In fact if you want, we have an After Action Report sub forum here where you could post your experiences and thoughts of the class.

Will do. A friend of a friend is giving it as a free dry run for his paid class later. I took advantage of the free invite in return for my input. I kinda wish more instructors did this and tried working out the kinks ahead of time as well as being willing to listen to input. Should be fun.

[TCinVA]

Hi everyone, new to the forum. Really glad i found this thread. Great info and feedback 🍻

I'm in the market for a semi auto and the 1301 tac is at the top of the list right now. Want to ask a quick question, might be stupid, but I rather be sure.

I don't like the bulk of the factory rear sight and would like to replace it with an Aridus CROM. Likely won't mount a RDS, but rather use the ghost ring (Rob Haught Mod). From pictures it looks like the CROM is lower than the factory rear sight. Is there enough adjustment in the rear ghost ring sight on the CROM to still use with factory front sight? Such that you can still zero the ghost ring sights?

Thanks!

It's designed to co-witness with the optic, so yes. I have the CROM on my guns zeroed with the front sight and it works fine.

[GearFondler]

It's designed to co-witness with the optic, so yes. I have the CROM on my guns zeroed with the front sight and it works fine.This... If the rear iron didn't work with the front sight it would be useless.
The only negative to running the CROM without an RDS is that the rear iron is kind of exposed and unprotected as compared to the factory ghost ring sight.

[AOITC589]

Thank you both for confirming. Sighting is very new to me and I'm still learning.

I did consider that the sight won't be protected, but I'm trying to minimize bulk. Planning to use the 18.5" tactical for hd. Maybe I'll just keep the factory rear depending on how much i like it at the range.

Always wanted a Benelli for hd, but the price is out of my range right now. So figured why not a pump since you can't go wrong, but can't find a 590A1 at the moment. Ignorant to other options, i stumbled upon the 1301 and can't find much bad about it.

Would love an American made semi. FN SLP has very mixed reviews, mostly negative. There's the Remington V3. I'll be looking into that more before pulling the trigger on the 1301.

[sigfla]

Just got home after class. The light mount never budged. I tried to torque on it when I got home and it still wouldn't budge. Shot about 200 rounds of 7 1/2 bird and 10 rounds of buck and slug.

[OlongJohnson]

Would love an American made semi. FN SLP has very mixed reviews, mostly negative. There's the Remington V3. I'll be looking into that more before pulling the trigger on the 1301.

The Savage Renegauge is a candidate. I'll be watching it as field experience accumulates.

[Balisong]

https://youtu.be/iuJUBaJmKTk

This pretty much helped cement my want of an LTT 1301.

Couple quick questions for TCinVa and anyone else:

1. Are the Aridus side saddles offered with it one of the "good ones"? I seemed to remember TC only likes a couple side saddle options, I'm pretty sure Vang is one of them but can't remember the other.

2. I'd like to start getting on waiting lists for the different good types of federal flight control ammo so I can have some to shoot when I get the shotgun. Can anyone name the product numbers to look for? All I'm seeing on Federals website for defense 00 is number PD132 00. That seems to be a 9 pellet, and I think reduced load? I'd also like to try the 8 pellet reduced and non-reduced loads if possible. Seems everyone here gets better groups with the 8 vs 9 pellet shells. I just can't seem to find those numbers on Federals site, hopefully they're not discontinued.

Thanks in advance!

[TCinVA]

1. Are the Aridus side saddles offered with it one of the "good ones"? I seemed to remember TC only likes a couple side saddle options, I'm pretty sure Vang is one of them but can't remember the other.


Vang for a soft-sided shell carrier.

Aridus for a hard-sideed shell carrier you can jump out of helicopters with.



2. I'd like to start getting on waiting lists for the different good types of federal flight control ammo so I can have some to shoot when I get the shotgun. Can anyone name the product numbers to look for? All I'm seeing on Federals website for defense 00 is number PD132 00. That seems to be a 9 pellet, and I think reduced load? I'd also like to try the 8 pellet reduced and non-reduced loads if possible. Seems everyone here gets better groups with the 8 vs 9 pellet shells. I just can't seem to find those numbers on Federals site, hopefully they're not discontinued.

Thanks in advance!

LE133 is the 8 pellet load. The 8 pellet load avoids the 9th pellet flyer that even FFC has. Just a function of physics.

[sigfla]

2. I'd like to start getting on waiting lists for the different good types of federal flight control ammo so I can have some to shoot when I get the shotgun. Can anyone name the product numbers to look for? All I'm seeing on Federals website for defense 00 is number PD132 00. That seems to be a 9 pellet, and I think reduced load? I'd also like to try the 8 pellet reduced and non-reduced loads if possible. Seems everyone here gets better groups with the 8 vs 9 pellet shells. I just can't seem to find those numbers on Federals site, hopefully they're not discontinued.

Thanks in advance!

The advantage of flight control buckshot was proven most convincingly in class today. My Fiochii sucked and started to spread significantly at 15 yards. Flight control was a tight fist size group out to 20. I only got to fire one as it was given to me by the instructor but I am sold!!

[Balisong]

Vang for a soft-sided shell carrier.

Aridus for a hard-sideed shell carrier you can jump out of helicopters with.



LE133 is the 8 pellet load. The 8 pellet load avoids the 9th pellet flyer that even FFC has. Just a function of physics.

Perfect, thank you sir! I will add that to my notification lists

[pyrotechnic]

I have read through most of this thread at one point or another, and just recently snagged a new gen 1 tactical.

How are you guys mounting a light on these without adding an extended magazine or swapping the fore end? I snagged a streamlight 870 mount that looked promising from a link earlier in the thread but upon it's arrival I can see it's not going to work well.

Thanks!

[sigfla]

You might see if GG&G has anything more suitable for you. I have settled on a frankencombo of mount and a specific surefire light model. BUT I am using a extension and clamp as my light mount. Keep in mind you can use a cheaper extension like the KZ from Botach in conjunction with your magazine spring retainer to maintain legal capacity and still use the clamp and tube as additional real estate if thats your issue.

[Paul Blackburn]

Has anyone experienced this issue?

https://youtu.be/GPPT8i8IvwI

[DLWinner]

I have a couple of questions about my new 1301 Tactical.
I noticed that my front sight is not centered. How do I straighten that?
Also.... My 1301 has the plastic mount on top of the receiver. Is that suitable to mount a red dot or do I need something stronger?

[GyroF-16]

I have a couple of questions about my new 1301 Tactical.
I noticed that my front sight is not centered. How do I straighten that?
Also.... My 1301 has the plastic mount on top of the receiver. Is that suitable to mount a red dot or do I need something stronger?

Front sight: I used needle-nose pliers to remove the nut on the underside of the sight. Added a dab threadlocker, held the sight straight, and tightened. I think it gets cockeyed when the sight rotates as the nut gets snug. This task is much easier if you disassemble the gun and remove the barrel (I’ve done it both ways - working with the barrel itself is much easier),

Several here have used the stock, plastic rail without issue. There is also an aluminum one available on BerettaUSA.com.
Just be careful when tightening those screws that attach it to the receiver - they are fragile, and it’s too easy to break the head off the shaft. Ask me how I know...

[pyrotechnic]

You might see if GG&G has anything more suitable for you. I have settled on a frankencombo of mount and a specific surefire light model. BUT I am using a extension and clamp as my light mount. Keep in mind you can use a cheaper extension like the KZ from Botach in conjunction with your magazine spring retainer to maintain legal capacity and still use the clamp and tube as additional real estate if thats your issue.

Thanks, I'll look around. I really just want to keep the gun as light and sleek as possible. No extension, a 4 round shotgun card, a scout light, and a sling.

My primary use will be in case I need to let a large bear know how unhappy I am with him in my campsite. And I'll probably try to bag a turkey with it at some point.

[sigfla]

Thanks, I'll look around. I really just want to keep the gun as light and sleek as possible. No extension, a 4 round shotgun card, a scout light, and a sling.

My primary use will be in case I need to let a large bear know how unhappy I am with him in my campsite. And I'll probably try to bag a turkey with it at some point.

If that’s your intent you should try and find the Steiner light for the 1301.

[CoGT3]

On sale at Brownells today


https://www.brownells.com/firearms/shotguns/semi-auto/1301-tactical-shotgun-12-gauge-18-5in-j131t18-prod88797.aspx?avs%7cSpecial-Filters_1=Salezz1zzClearance&trk_msg=N2ACHB955FH4P078OISN6JIEG8&trk_contact=9AR2I0HDMCUQD656KER3N4N6D0&trk_sid=U4MUMFKJJRICCPIIPBQ16FLE48&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=https%3a%2f%2fwww.brownells.com%2ffirearm s%2fshotguns%2fsemi-auto%2f1301-tactical-shotgun-12-gauge-18-5in-j131t18-prod88797.aspx%3favs%257cSpecial-Filters_1%3dSalezz1zzClearance&utm_campaign=2020_05_25_MemorialDay&utm_content=Event


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[sigfla]

I have a couple of questions about my new 1301 Tactical.
I noticed that my front sight is not centered. How do I straighten that?
Also.... My 1301 has the plastic mount on top of the receiver. Is that suitable to mount a red dot or do I need something stronger?

I wedged in feeler gauges to center the sight where it was moving and left them in place while tightening. You will find that the wings as well as the sight post may move. A fingernail helps to hold the wings centered as you tighten

[TCinVA]

Has anyone experienced this issue?

https://youtu.be/GPPT8i8IvwI

No. In class I will drop my (empty) gun from nearly waist height repeatedly and I've never experienced that.

While it's possible, it's not a likely event and it certainly isn't a "fatal flaw" with the 1301. Then again, Yeager is going to be Yeager.

[TCinVA]

I have a couple of questions about my new 1301 Tactical.
I noticed that my front sight is not centered. How do I straighten that?


Get a 5.5mm wrench, loosen the nut holding the sight on, get it straight, support the sight as you tighten the nut back down.



Also.... My 1301 has the plastic mount on top of the receiver. Is that suitable to mount a red dot or do I need something stronger?

I would advise against using the factory rail to mount a dot as I've seen RDS sights pulling the rails loose from the top of the gun multiple times now. (Note that this isn't limited to the 1301...I've seen it on other guns, too)

If you want to mount an optic, buy the Aridus CROM.

You don't need to mount an optic, though. The factory ghost ring sights are excellent.

[sigfla]

No. In class I will drop my (empty) gun from nearly waist height repeatedly and I've never experienced that.

While it's possible, it's not a likely event and it certainly isn't a "fatal flaw" with the 1301. Then again, Yeager is going to be Yeager.

I kinda chuckle that he used the infamous "fatal flaw" language in his title. Its a clear attempt at stealing views. In any case it seems this guy already had a busted bolt shroud and he may have cracked it early on when he lock tighted it down. There are aftermarket bolt handles though if anyone is worried. I don't really care for the look of the factory one but I am not replacing it anytime soon.

[Paul Blackburn]

No. In class I will drop my (empty) gun from nearly waist height repeatedly and I've never experienced that.

While it's possible, it's not a likely event and it certainly isn't a "fatal flaw" with the 1301. Then again, Yeager is going to be Yeager.

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't had any issues with mine either but I haven't dropped it on the charging handle either.

[GearFondler]

I straightened my front sight with a small length of hardwood and light taps with a hammer.
Pulled the barrel, clamped it in a well padded vice, and tap, tap, tap, it was fixed. Way easier that fighting with that tiny ass nut. A hard plastic dowel and hammer should work just as well... It only needs minimal movement.

[OlongJohnson]

I would advise against using the factory rail to mount a dot as I've seen RDS sights pulling the rails loose from the top of the gun multiple times now. (Note that this isn't limited to the 1301...I've seen it on other guns, too)

If you want to mount an optic, buy the Aridus CROM.

I've seen a factory plastic rail shoot loose, but it was not pulling the threads out of the receiver. The Beretta screws were actually failing and the heads snapping off them. I addressed this earlier in the thread, and it came up again a month or two ago.

I'm thinking that by using the aluminum Gen II rail so that flexing of the rail doesn't concentrate stresses unevenly, and suitably upgraded screws, this should be well alleviated, as similar setups don't seem to be a problem on rifles with much heavier scopes mounted. An aluminum rail and properly manufactured screws are also integral parts of the CROM solution.

Does your experience say otherwise?

[DLWinner]

I wanted to mount a Holosun 507c on the factory rail. I figured it would be small and light enough not to stress the plastic rail.... Doesn’t sound like it.

[pyrotechnic]

I think I'm going to give the streamlight 870 light rail a fair shakeout before dismissing it because it doesn't fit perfectly. Has anyone drilled a small hole to let the that "magazine end cap detent pin" (whatever you want to call it) poke through so it can engage the grooves on that cap to prevent loosening under recoil?

[vcdgrips]

Full disclosure. I am not a shotgun guy. I have owned a Mossberg 590 and presently own a very modestly equipped Mossberg 500. I have maybe 300 rounds through Benelli LEO guns over the past 20 ish years.

Executive Summary: If an auto is your thing- buy this and start working on the software because you have the hardware covered.

I had a chance to shoot for the first time since Early March. I also had a chance to shoot a Gen 1.5 1301 with some old school full power buck and slug. Given the ammo, it was appreciably softer "feeling "than a Benelli shooting the same ammo.

12 inch @ 15 was the pattern for the 8 and 9 pellet Buck (Winchester). I was shooting low .20 splits with ease.

My shooting partner then loaded some bird shot and proceed to rip off 7 rounds in 1.52 seconds ( first shot in .45) from the low ready shooting splits in the mid to high teens.

Data point of 2.



In the buy quality, cry once camp, You could trick this thing out with Magpul Furniture, a "side saddle", a light and red dot and be in under 2k with the ultimate fighting shotgun.

[sigfla]

Full disclosure. I am not a shotgun guy. I have owned a Mossberg 590 and presently own a very modestly equipped Mossberg 500. I have maybe 300 rounds through Benelli LEO guns over the past 20 ish years.

Executive Summary: If an auto is your thing- buy this and start working on the software because you have the hardware covered.

I had a chance to shoot for the first time since Early March. I also had a chance to shoot a Gen 1.5 1301 with some old school full power buck and slug. Given the ammo, it was appreciably softer "feeling "than a Benelli shooting the same ammo.

12 inch @ 15 was the pattern for the 8 and 9 pellet Buck (Winchester). I was shooting low .20 splits with ease.

My shooting partner then loaded some bird shot and proceed to rip off 7 rounds in 1.52 seconds ( first shot in .45) from the low ready shooting splits in the mid to high teens.

Data point of 2.



In the buy quality, cry once camp, You could trick this thing out with Magpul Furniture, a "side saddle", a light and red dot and be in under 2k with the ultimate fighting shotgun.

When you factor in the money it’s a no brainer. I used my M4 and my 1301 in class this weekend. The M4 is tricked out and the 1301 only lacks the install of my aridus RMR Mount. The 1301 was superior. The M4 recoiled slightly less but at the cost of a lot of weight. The 1301 feels like an air soft toy and still recoils soft.

[TCinVA]

I've seen a factory plastic rail shoot loose, but it was not pulling the threads out of the receiver. The Beretta screws were actually failing and the heads snapping off them. I addressed this earlier in the thread, and it came up again a month or two ago.

I'm thinking that by using the aluminum Gen II rail so that flexing of the rail doesn't concentrate stresses unevenly, and suitably upgraded screws, this should be well alleviated, as similar setups don't seem to be a problem on rifles with much heavier scopes mounted. An aluminum rail and properly manufactured screws are also integral parts of the CROM solution.

Does your experience say otherwise?

At the last Shotgun 360 we had a 1301 with the factory aluminum rail used to mount a Trijicon MRO. It was professionally installed. It worked loose by the end of the first day. He went back to the hotel room and replaced the blue loc-tite with Vibratite (which is superior for this sort of application) only to find that by day 2 even having properly used Vibratite it was loose again. Now the MRO is not a heavy optic, but it doesn't take a heavy optic to strain the factory rail.

There is a combination of factors at play. The first is how many screw threads are actually engaged in the receiver. The factory mount sits higher on the gun, meaning that a fastener can't sit as deep on it as it does on the CROM. Adam's design mounts low to get the optic into the focal plane of the eye when the gun is mounted, but that design decision also has the effect of reducing the leverage that the mount has on the fasteners holding it to the gun. The amount of the fastener that is engaged relative to its size is higher on Adam's mount than on the factory mount.

The higher the optic sits, the more leverage it seems to have on the mount when inertia is doing its thing. The longer the fastener, the more leverage the mount has on the screw. Once the screws start to work loose, the mount moves more and that starts pulling the screws against the threads. In my last edition of Home Defense Shotgun a client with a Beretta 1201 had a rail mounted so he could put a small Romeo on the gun.

On the second string of the qualification (the last exercise of the class) his optic mount left the gun in spectacular fashion:

5472154722

One screw head sheared off completely. The photo doesn't show it well, but the screw body left in that hole is sitting in there at about a 30 degree angle. Note the blue thread locking compound on it. The photo shows that the rest of the tapped holes had the threads ripped right out.

Again, this was a 1201...not a 1301. But the rail on the 1201 was very similar to the factory rail on the 1301 in terms of height and all it had on it was a Romeo with the same footprint as the Aimpoint Micro.

So having seen the factory rail work loose multiple times, even when the aluminum rail is used, good fasteners are used, and a good thread locking compound was used, I'm not a fan of mounting optics to the factory rail on the 1301, polymer or aluminum.

If you want to mount an optic to a 1301, use a CROM.

[TCinVA]

I think I'm going to give the streamlight 870 light rail a fair shakeout before dismissing it because it doesn't fit perfectly. Has anyone drilled a small hole to let the that "magazine end cap detent pin" (whatever you want to call it) poke through so it can engage the grooves on that cap to prevent loosening under recoil?

No. It's not necessary.

The magazine cap coming loose is a concern on most shotguns. The spring loaded detent in the Beretta's forend is a good way to try and prevent that, but even so when you shoot the factory setup for a while (as you might do in a class setting) it will still work loose.

I can tell you that I leave the Streamlight 870 mount on my 1301 all the time. This means it is used in every class I teach when I demo with the gun and when the gun inevitably ends up in the hands of a client because their gun breaks. Generally I have to tighten up the Nordic mag tube on my primary gun once after class is over. Paying attention to the magazine cap/mag tube is something you just have to do with a shotgun that you are going to put a significant number of rounds through.

Having used the Streamlight 870 mount on 870's and my two 1301's, it doesn't make the problem any worse than not having it on the gun. You need to tighten the mag cap nice and snug and in a class environment you need to check it periodically, but that's true no matter what shotgun you are using.

A strategy I would recommend is actually taking the mount off the gun when you do live fire training with it. In class the first thing I see fail is lights and light mounts. Lights come loose or just straight leave the gun entirely.

The shotgun is absolutely brutal to every piece of equipment attached to it. Lights are no exception. If you consistently shoot your defensive shotgun (and you should) with the light mounted to it and you have batteries in the light, you will kill the light at some point. The contacts will get battered to the point where the light fails. Older Surefire forends for the 870 had a battery arrangement that stacked batteries on top of one another. Police departments bought them and used them and killed them because the inertia of those two batteries slamming into each other and into the contacts eventually destroyed batteries and the unit itself. (If you've ever wondered why the 870 forend is so heavy, consider the forces it has to deal with) The more recent designs sit the batteries side by side to reduce that.

It's effective at reducing it, but it won't eliminate it. The contacts in the forend will eventually get killed. It's just going to take more than what your typical police shotgun will see to make that happen.

The X300 that is on my 1301 is on that path now. The pin that holds the back of the battery panel on the light has worked loose. The constant battering it suffers as a result of the recoil forces it has been subjected to after being mounted to my gun for heaven only knows how many cases of buckshot, slugs, and heavy birdshot (I typically shoot #4 or #6 moving at 1,300 FPS or more) has opened up the hole that pin rides in enough for the pin to become quite loose. It will eventually get bad enough where it ejects completely under recoil and the back of the light will fly off, spilling the batteries.

I've accepted this. I have other weapon lights that can replace it when that happens.

Now most folks don't fire the number of shells through their gun that I put through mine, so it will take them a hell of a long time to actually get to that point. If I was using anything other than a Surefire X300 I would have killed the light long ago. Still, my advice to most folks is to do most of your live fire without the light mounted. Or, at the very least, remove the batteries from it so that you don't put that wear and tear on the light you are going to be depending on in the real thing.

So you have good reasons to not have the Streamlight mount on the gun when you are doing most of your live fire training, which is where the cap loosening problem is the greatest concern.

Even if you remove it completely, though, the cap will still move when you shoot the gun a lot. It happens on most shotguns when you shoot a steady diet of heavy loads through them. Failing to keep an eye on that will cause breakages and problems prematurely on most shotguns so it's good to develop a habit of checking it anyway.

[pyrotechnic]

No. It's not necessary.

The magazine cap coming loose is a concern on most shotguns. The spring loaded detent in the Beretta's forend is a good way to try and prevent that, but even so when you shoot the factory setup for a while (as you might do in a class setting) it will still work loose.

I can tell you that I leave the Streamlight 870 mount on my 1301 all the time. This means it is used in every class I teach when I demo with the gun and when the gun inevitably ends up in the hands of a client because their gun breaks. Generally I have to tighten up the Nordic mag tube on my primary gun once after class is over. Paying attention to the magazine cap/mag tube is something you just have to do with a shotgun that you are going to put a significant number of rounds through.

Having used the Streamlight 870 mount on 870's and my two 1301's, it doesn't make the problem any worse than not having it on the gun. You need to tighten the mag cap nice and snug and in a class environment you need to check it periodically, but that's true no matter what shotgun you are using.

A strategy I would recommend is actually taking the mount off the gun when you do live fire training with it. In class the first thing I see fail is lights and light mounts. Lights come loose or just straight leave the gun entirely.

The shotgun is absolutely brutal to every piece of equipment attached to it. Lights are no exception. If you consistently shoot your defensive shotgun (and you should) with the light mounted to it and you have batteries in the light, you will kill the light at some point. The contacts will get battered to the point where the light fails. Older Surefire forends for the 870 had a battery arrangement that stacked batteries on top of one another. Police departments bought them and used them and killed them because the inertia of those two batteries slamming into each other and into the contacts eventually destroyed batteries and the unit itself. (If you've ever wondered why the 870 forend is so heavy, consider the forces it has to deal with) The more recent designs sit the batteries side by side to reduce that.

It's effective at reducing it, but it won't eliminate it. The contacts in the forend will eventually get killed. It's just going to take more than what your typical police shotgun will see to make that happen.

The X300 that is on my 1301 is on that path now. The pin that holds the back of the battery panel on the light has worked loose. The constant battering it suffers as a result of the recoil forces it has been subjected to after being mounted to my gun for heaven only knows how many cases of buckshot, slugs, and heavy birdshot (I typically shoot #4 or #6 moving at 1,300 FPS or more) has opened up the hole that pin rides in enough for the pin to become quite loose. It will eventually get bad enough where it ejects completely under recoil and the back of the light will fly off, spilling the batteries.

I've accepted this. I have other weapon lights that can replace it when that happens.

Now most folks don't fire the number of shells through their gun that I put through mine, so it will take them a hell of a long time to actually get to that point. If I was using anything other than a Surefire X300 I would have killed the light long ago. Still, my advice to most folks is to do most of your live fire without the light mounted. Or, at the very least, remove the batteries from it so that you don't put that wear and tear on the light you are going to be depending on in the real thing.

So you have good reasons to not have the Streamlight mount on the gun when you are doing most of your live fire training, which is where the cap loosening problem is the greatest concern.

Even if you remove it completely, though, the cap will still move when you shoot the gun a lot. It happens on most shotguns when you shoot a steady diet of heavy loads through them. Failing to keep an eye on that will cause breakages and problems prematurely on most shotguns so it's good to develop a habit of checking it anyway.

Thank you for the detailed response. I snapped an x300 onto the streamlight mount as well. I'll be removing it for my live fire practice.

Again, thanks!

[sigfla]

Thank you for the detailed response. I snapped an x300 onto the streamlight mount as well. I'll be removing it for my live fire practice.

Again, thanks!

One suggestion. Fire a few rounds with it. If there is an issue you need to know how that setup works. I just used my M4 yesterday and realized that my finger could easily get crushed against my IWC light mount. I also worked it loose under fire. YES I agree to remove the light but only after you get familiar with your setup and how it’s going to work

[TCinVA]

Removing the batteries from the unit will let you get the ergonomics worked out while minimizing the forces the light must endure.

[vaglocker]

I wanted to mount a Holosun 507c on the factory rail. I figured it would be small and light enough not to stress the plastic rail.... Doesn’t sound like it.

Same set up. Factory rail came loose within 250 shells, but didn’t snap the screws.Mine now wears a CROM

[DLWinner]

And of course..... Out of stock. :-(

(Rmr mount)

[Paul Blackburn]

What condition do you recommend keeping a bedside 1301 in?

[sigfla]

You will have to make that determination yourself based on your situation. You have several options for safe storage while still being accessible.

[GyroF-16]

What condition do you recommend keeping a bedside 1301 in?

Well, I’d start with “chamber empty”, as the gun is not inherently drop-safe.
Then you can decide whether you prefer all shells in the mag tube (two actions to a loaded chamber),
or one on the lifter (one action to a loaded chamber).

[TCinVA]

What condition do you recommend keeping a bedside 1301 in?

I keep mine empty chamber with a round on the lifter. That way I simply run the bolt to get the gun ready and go to work.

[Clusterfrack]

I keep mine empty chamber with a round on the lifter. That way I simply run the bolt to get the gun ready and go to work.

Floated, with a full mag?

[TCinVA]

Floated, with a full mag?

I load the magazine to capacity and then hit the shell release to drop one on the lifter.

[sigfla]

I do that as well and sometimes if I feel like fiddling with it I ghost load it. However on both my Beretta and my Benelli I find that sometimes the round sticks and you gotta push the bolt handle a little to get it to go forward. Anyone else notice the same? Neither of my guns are close to broken in yet BTW.

[GearFondler]

I do that as well and sometimes if I feel like fiddling with it I ghost load it. However on both my Beretta and my Benelli I find that sometimes the round sticks and you gotta push the bolt handle a little to get it to go forward. Anyone else notice the same? Neither of my guns are close to broken in yet BTW.I find very easy to load one on the lifter with the M4 but it's more difficult to do with the 1301... You have to find the sweet spot with the bolt back just far enough to allow the shell in and under and then it may still take a bit of fiddling to get the bolt fully forward again. But definitely worth it to have a full 7 + 1 and still have an empty chamber.
The only thing I haven't decided on is whether it's best to then pull the trigger to drop the hammer, or simply leave it cocked, or leave it cocked and engage the safety.
However, loading 7 and then releasing one onto the lifter is definitely easier, safer, and much quicker if you wanted to immediately slug select.

[sigfla]

Back in stock

[sigfla]

I find very easy to load one on the lifter with the M4 but it's more difficult to do with the 1301... You have to find the sweet spot with the bolt back just far enough to allow the shell in and under and then it may still take a bit of fiddling to get the bolt fully forward again. But definitely worth it to have a full 7 + 1 and still have an empty chamber.
The only thing I haven't decided on is whether it's best to then pull the trigger to drop the hammer, or simply leave it cocked, or leave it cocked and engage the safety.
However, loading 7 and then releasing one onto the lifter is definitely easier, safer, and much quicker if you wanted to immediately slug select.

I am the opposite bc the beretta lifter can be pushed down out of the way. I can’t do that with the benelli

[Paul Blackburn]

I keep mine empty chamber with a round on the lifter. That way I simply run the bolt to get the gun ready and go to work.

The 1301 controls are ideal for that. Thanks!

[tactical1]

https://www.targetsportsusa.com/federal-law-enforcement-tactical-12-gauge-ammo-2-34-00-buckshot-le13300-p-3291.aspx

54929

[sigfla]

https://www.targetsportsusa.com/federal-law-enforcement-tactical-12-gauge-ammo-2-34-00-buckshot-le13300-p-3291.aspx

54929

Thanks for the heads up

[Yung]

https://www.targetsportsusa.com/federal-law-enforcement-tactical-12-gauge-ammo-2-34-00-buckshot-le13300-p-3291.aspx

54929

Nice, good looking out.

[tactical1]

And it's now out of stock.....

[philpac33]

And it's now out of stock.....

Sign up for their notify me. I was looking for a case a few weeks ago, signed up and received the notification the very next day. I appreciate the text message option, I see those right away where I only check my email a couple times a day.

[sigfla]

My light finally arrived. I love the setup so far. It was rock solid last week for class and no lock tight anywhere. I am going to run it this way for a bit then decide if threadlocker is needed. If anyone can 3D print a flat bottom copy of the Magpul cantilever Mount that is about 3-4 rows longer and slightly taller to clear the forearm that can mount via 2 screws, I am in for one. I shoot lefty so this will get a switch mounted ala vlad’s example. A lefty who just wants to use the thumb switch wouldn’t even have to reverse the clamp like I did. I am using the QD sling cup on that side do the light needed to be mounted on the left.

[pm07]

Has anyone tried to attach a matchsaver shell holder to the factory forearm? I'm thinking slug select drills/loading.

[tactical1]

Sign up for their notify me. I was looking for a case a few weeks ago, signed up and received the notification the very next day. I appreciate the text message option, I see those right away where I only check my email a couple times a day.

Phil - the text set up worked better for me - tried the email but was too late on a few of the in-stock rodeos

[vaglocker]

And it's now out of stock.....

DSG Arms currently has them in stock

[Cecil Burch]

Has anyone tried to attach a matchsaver shell holder to the factory forearm? I'm thinking slug select drills/loading.


I did. I took the forearm off, and had to jiggle a little to find a spot that would hold the Matchsaverz and not interfere with the gun's operation. It was not easy. The indentations on the forearm really give you fewer spots than you think at first are there. I have had concerns about the ruggedness of the attachment, but I just ran it this past Saturday in a class with Chris Fry and it held up fine, even after being put down on gravel, and a lot of emergency loads at speed.

[Velvetfoot]

Well, I finally shot my 1301 tactical. I put the Nordic +2 tube on, original spring and follower, today, and the Limbsaver (I think...that's been a while).
Seven rounds in the magazine is nice.
It cycled nice with Dove loads.
I shot 5 slugs of Winchester Deer Season.
I'm going to have to look up some videos on recoil management.
The Bushnell TRS 80 is still working, but this was not much of a test. I will say the dot was too dim even at max power in the sun and white target.
It can be co-witnessed, but at the very bottom of the red dot aperture.
I might look for another low profile, brighter red dot, that can co-witness without the CROM, if anyone can recommend one.

[sigfla]

So I did another thing I said I wasn’t going to do. I have never really aesthetically cared for the stock bolt handle. I don’t know if Yeagers video is legit or not but just for looks I went ahead and got this. It’s compatible with several Beretta models including the 1301 but the pin design is different from stock. I was able to install it without disassembling the gun by using my finger to push the bolt back until the key aligned.

[delphidoc]

Who makes it?

[sigfla]

Sorry I should have posted that. It’s from SureCycle

[TCinVA]

So I did another thing I said I wasn’t going to do. I have never really aesthetically cared for the stock bolt handle. I don’t know if Yeagers video is legit or not but just for looks I went ahead and got this. It’s compatible with several Beretta models including the 1301 but the pin design is different from stock. I was able to install it without disassembling the gun by using my finger to push the bolt back until the key aligned.

That looks to be a one piece design, machined out of a single piece of steel. Should be pretty robust. I'll buy a couple and give them a shot.

[sigfla]

I just emailed them b/c I realized you can pull the handle out with some force at any position the bolt is in. Its probably about the same force my Benelli M4 requires as the keyed end is similar in design. The factory Bolt handle has a sort of foot that locks it in. This one doesn't. It still seems pretty solid but I figured I would ask them if thats how its supposed to be. I do like it however as it is very solid and its not as obtrusive as the factory handle. I'll post their response if I get one.

[rob_s]

I don’t know if the installation method is similar or not, but I recently installed and then lost an extended bolt handle on my a300 clays gun. It would appear that I did not instal the aftermarket part correct,y, and I’m now back to the factory part.

So make sure you really jam it in there, I suppose.

[sigfla]

I recently had need to remove my KZ extension and reinstall. I noticed the QD cup on the end cap was a rotating design. I believe this to be a flaw. If you insert a QD loop in the cap it can twist such that the sling loop will obstruct your barrel. I don’t know if this would happen while firing but it is easily possible. I would prefer a non rotating design so that the sling loop doesn’t obstruct the barrel

[rob_s]

$875 for a new one a good price?
https://www.rainierarms.com/beretta-1301-tactical-12-gauge-shotgun-18-5/?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_term=BERETTA+1301+TACTICAL+12+GAUGE+SHOTGUN+-+18.5%22&utm_content=We+have+what+Dad+really+wants!+Shop+fo r+Father's+Day+at+Rainier+Arms.&utm_campaign=06-05-2020+Father's+Day+1&_bta_tid=02686998113589013522733381220369885828316 08020646188763595409511354541448685394117742418899 537169336870229505

[delphidoc]

You won't find a better price than that. It's the last one from their distributor, so my guess is they're just clearing it out.

Pics show a Gen 1 no-choke barrel and what looks to me to be a Gen 2 bolt release. That's how mine is. I call it Gen 1.5.

Correction: The pic shows a Gen 1 bolt release. I got a Gen 2 release on mine when I thought it was going to have a Gen 2 release.





$875 for a new one a good price?
https://www.rainierarms.com/beretta-1301-tactical-12-gauge-shotgun-18-5/?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_term=BERETTA+1301+TACTICAL+12+GAUGE+SHOTGUN+-+18.5%22&utm_content=We+have+what+Dad+really+wants!+Shop+fo r+Father's+Day+at+Rainier+Arms.&utm_campaign=06-05-2020+Father's+Day+1&_bta_tid=02686998113589013522733381220369885828316 08020646188763595409511354541448685394117742418899 537169336870229505

[Navin Johnson]

Recently found a number of gen 1 tactical in Seattle area. 3-4 different stores with them. They are not a fast seller as most want a pump or "shockwave" type bs (and they are big $ relative to an 870) Generally very rare. One shop told me right now so low on all product they will take anything distributor has.

I really want a comp. However would have taken a Tac. if it had chokes. (think re-sale)

[crosseyedshooter]

Has anyone tried using the Carrier Comp follower on a 1301 Comp instead of the Tactical? I just got a Gen2 24" Comp and installed the Carrier Comp red follower. The nub protrusion that solves the jamming problem can touch the end of the lifter. Occasionally, the lifter gets stuck in the up position wedged against the follower. Has anyone else seen this issue? Maybe it's not a problem with the 1301 Tactical lifter or my particular gun has tighter clearance in that area?

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Has anyone tried using the Carrier Comp follower on a 1301 Comp instead of the Tactical? I just got a Gen2 24" Comp and installed the Carrier Comp red follower. The nub protrusion that solves the jamming problem can touch the end of the lifter. Occasionally, the lifter gets stuck in the up position wedged against the follower. Has anyone else seen this issue? Maybe it's not a problem with the 1301 Tactical lifter or my particular gun has tighter clearance in that area?

Slight veer but I have a new in the sealed sleeve Carrier Comp follower that I'm not going to need, PM me if anyone WTB it & now back on topic.

[sigfla]

Has anyone tried using the Carrier Comp follower on a 1301 Comp instead of the Tactical? I just got a Gen2 24" Comp and installed the Carrier Comp red follower. The nub protrusion that solves the jamming problem can touch the end of the lifter. Occasionally, the lifter gets stuck in the up position wedged against the follower. Has anyone else seen this issue? Maybe it's not a problem with the 1301 Tactical lifter or my particular gun has tighter clearance in that area?

I use it and do not have that problem. In fact I use a Taccom load assist to bridge the gap even more.

[GyroF-16]

Has anyone here tried an RMR other reflex sight on a 1301T?

I’ve currently got an RMO on mine, but am considering trying a Holosun 507 or 508T on it to reduce bulk.
Then move the RMO to a new AR pistol. Or put the Holosun on the AR pistol...

Thoughts?

[TCinVA]

Yes, I have.

in general I greatly prefer an enclosed emitter optic on a long gun.

The Holosun specifically is not as bright as I would like it to be, but I have vision issues that make seeing red in bright daylight more difficult for me. Most don't, so I can't say what it will look like for you.

[Cacafuego]

One of my two 1301Ts (both "1st gen," if that matters) will no longer reliably release a shell from the magazine using what the manual calls the "carrier stop button." Both snap caps and live shells. This means I can't store the thing "cruiser ready", which is the only status that makes sense for me.
Beretta customer service said the thing isn't supposed to feed that way, that it needs recoil to aid feeding, and that it must be port loaded. I think that's a load of crap. My other 1301 releases shells, and the problem one used to; furthermore these things are too expensive to be that kind of pain in the ass.
Anybody have any suggestions as to what I ought to take a look at? After snapping the charging handle on the other gun, and now this, I' starting to think these things are just damn fragile.

[crosseyedshooter]

One of my two 1301Ts (both "1st gen," if that matters) will no longer reliably release a shell from the magazine using what the manual calls the "carrier stop button." Both snap caps and live shells. This means I can't store the thing "cruiser ready", which is the only status that makes sense for me.
Beretta customer service said the thing isn't supposed to feed that way, that it needs recoil to aid feeding, and that it must be port loaded. I think that's a load of crap. My other 1301 releases shells, and the problem one used to; furthermore these things are too expensive to be that kind of pain in the ass.
Anybody have any suggestions as to what I ought to take a look at? After snapping the charging handle on the other gun, and now this, I' starting to think these things are just damn fragile.

I think I understand what Beretta CS is saying. The shells feed from the magazine tube and are captured by friction against the receiver and spring-loaded shell latch. I've found that the magazine spring needs to push the shell out with relative force to be able to overcome that friction. Can you check your magazine tube spring for wear or did you install a magazine tube extension without a new spring?

[Cacafuego]

The gun is bone stock.

[Super77]

My shotgun noob question of the day: When you have your 1301 bolt locked to the rear, can you depress the loading gate to load shells into the mag tube?

[TCinVA]

My shotgun noob question of the day: When you have your 1301 bolt locked to the rear, can you depress the loading gate to load shells into the mag tube?

No. The lifter is locked when the gun is locked open.

[TCinVA]

The Sure Cycle bolt handles pull right out of the bolt with little resistance. So those will be going back and I'll be sticking with the factory bolt handle.

[TCinVA]

One of my two 1301Ts (both "1st gen," if that matters) will no longer reliably release a shell from the magazine using what the manual calls the "carrier stop button." Both snap caps and live shells. This means I can't store the thing "cruiser ready", which is the only status that makes sense for me.
Beretta customer service said the thing isn't supposed to feed that way, that it needs recoil to aid feeding, and that it must be port loaded. I think that's a load of crap. My other 1301 releases shells, and the problem one used to; furthermore these things are too expensive to be that kind of pain in the ass.
Anybody have any suggestions as to what I ought to take a look at? After snapping the charging handle on the other gun, and now this, I' starting to think these things are just damn fragile.

It shouldn't work that way. I've seen more than 100 specimens of 1301 in person in use in class and I've never seen what you're describing manifest.

The problem with gun companies in general is that everybody in the company who may come into contact with customers or potential customers doesn't know how their products actually work.

My guess is that some stuff needs to be adjusted inside the gun and it could benefit from a trip to the factory.

If I had to guess I'd say something is off in the trigger group that is preventing the lifter from moving as it should to allow shells out of the magazine tube.

[e_stern]

One of my two 1301Ts (both "1st gen," if that matters) will no longer reliably release a shell from the magazine using what the manual calls the "carrier stop button." Both snap caps and live shells. This means I can't store the thing "cruiser ready", which is the only status that makes sense for me.
Beretta customer service said the thing isn't supposed to feed that way, that it needs recoil to aid feeding, and that it must be port loaded. I think that's a load of crap. My other 1301 releases shells, and the problem one used to; furthermore these things are too expensive to be that kind of pain in the ass.
Anybody have any suggestions as to what I ought to take a look at? After snapping the charging handle on the other gun, and now this, I' starting to think these things are just damn fragile.

Does it drop the shell on the lifter with a little thump of the stock against the ground?

[Cacafuego]

It shouldn't work that way. I've seen more than 100 specimens of 1301 in person in use in class and I've never seen what you're describing manifest.

The problem with gun companies in general is that everybody in the company who may come into contact with customers or potential customers doesn't know how their products actually work.

My guess is that some stuff needs to be adjusted inside the gun and it could benefit from a trip to the factory.

If I had to guess I'd say something is off in the trigger group that is preventing the lifter from moving as it should to allow shells out of the magazine tube.

I was hoping you'd chime in.
Like I said, I have two of them, used in classes etc. It's also a very standard semi-auto shotgun feature, so I knew the service rep was wrong.

[Cacafuego]

Does it drop the shell on the lifter with a little thump of the stock against the ground?

I was very much hoping you'd chime in.
It does release a shell when given a bump, yes.

[TCinVA]

That would seem to indicate that the mag spring needs to be replaced at a minimum.