This is what I settled on after initially evaluating the factory sear spring a factory return spring. I had a couple “surprise!” discharges near the end of pressing out travel on target. The lightest weight config was too light for me.Originally Posted by mmc45414
I have a S&W M&P full-size 45acp in version 1.0 and 2.0. I find that, for me, the trigger is improved over the 1.0. Saw no reason to make any changes.
I have three 2.0 5" guns and one 2.0 4" Compact.
I shot the first 5" gun frequently for a year or so, and I really cannot say I ever missed a target because of the stock trigger.
Also, once I was gearing up at a three gun match and realized the nice pistol with all of the enhancements was still at home in the safe, so I shot the stock Compact I was carrying. Not optimal maybe, but not an issue.
The Apex is a nifty tweak, but not a requirement, IMO, but for ~$95 it is a nice tweak.
I've used the Apex striker block in my 1.0. It does take the grittiness out of the trigger pull. The striker block has a nice polish to it. I have thought about getting only an Apex trigger shoe for my 2.0. It's not on the gotta have list, so I doubt I ever get one.
The TV show This Old House coined the phrase "Might as well, Bob..." and this is how I feel. Either just keep it stock (my stock one has Dawson sights) or just go for it. If you are going to modify anything after that the Apex trigger is low hanging fruit.
Do all the triggers shorten take up? I love the idea of a light take up and crisp break 2-stage trigger but was wondering if any of them left the take up length "stock" so to speak?
Apex has a “Duty/Carry” trigger that basically keeps the factory pretravel. Their “Forward Set” trigger is the one that removes the initial take-up. Both versions are available with straight or curved triggers.
Even though I have had many Apex kits and helped friends install several more, I have remained a little confused about the Foward Set specification. I have chatted with Randy and Scott at a couple times at NRA events, but never remembered to ask for clarification.
While the chart for sure indicates substantial reductions in total travel, I do not think it objectionable. I know it sounds like some kinda JMB blasphemy, but the take-up and over travel does seem to be in the same spectrum as the 1911.
If one doesn’t want to replace the entire trigger, an option i enjoyed tremendously, was installing just a new sear. Either the Apex one, or the Overwatch Precision version. I had great luck with both. Buying again, I would recommend the OP as it comes with NP3 coating and springs to tailor the pull. I polished the factory striker block myself and it came out exactly like the ones from the kits.
https://www.apextactical.com/fully-m...45-shield-mp-2
https://overwatchprecision.com/m-p-2...-9mm-and-10mm/
With the flat-faced trigger kit I myself utilize the lightest sear spring with the heavy trigger spring which gives me a short pre-travel, almost no over-travel, super crisp 4.5lb break.
It's akin to a PPQ/PDP trigger minus the long pre-travel and much shorter over-travel post break. Not quite 1911 but it's damn close.
Of the big 3 (Overwatch, Apex, Timney) the Apex is the best IMO, but the new flat-faced triggers S&W are using paired with just an Apex striker block are very good.
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