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Thread: PTR 91

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul D View Post
    Do you have a recommendation for available buffers? What about those deep flutes on the cases? Those things seem hard to correct with resizing.
    With my HK 91, circa 1980s , all I had were black streaks from the gas not flutes that I could feel. Shot only brass case.

  2. #12
    Site Supporter Paul D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1slow View Post
    With my HK 91, circa 1980s , all I had were black streaks from the gas not flutes that I could feel. Shot only brass case.
    Okay, maybe the chambers are different. This representative picture shows what my gun does to brass (besides denting it and launching it 25 yards away).

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  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
    No issues from mine that hasn't been ammo related (shooting steel case through it, cost effective and no worries on being hard on brass). One failure to feed. Still sends the empty cases over 20 yards with Wolf/Tula ammo.

    It's an older one with a pic rail that I sent out to have milled for a paddle release. Diopter rear sight is functional and durable, get the armorer's tool for it if you plan on staying with irons, as zeroing is extremely difficult without it. 100 yard/battle sight sight picture takes a moment to understand, but is essentially a mechanical Eotech once you understand it. The diopter rear sight maxes out at 400m. Eventually I'd like to get a FFP optic on it and be able to get the distance out of it.

    I do have the Magpul grip and safety on mine, along with an extended charging handle. I'd recommend all 3 of them. Mine has their old rail system that you bolt chunks of pic rail, and I'm leaning towards swapping out for a wide polymer forearm at some point in the future.

    From what I understand, it's not a gun you want to switch between surpressed and unsupressed, as the locking wedge in the block needs a totally different angle to keep from beating the gun up.

    Timmy makes a trigger unit for the MP5 that will work with these with swapping over a few parts, and I'm considering one if I stumble across one on mega-sale. My factory trigger is mushy and 8lbs or so in weight, but it's still a 4 MOA shooter with cheap steel case and irons (my eyes aren't that good anymore).
    You mention steel cases ammo, is yours a 7.62x39? I only ask because that's one I've looked at buying several times and only wonder about feed reliability since it uses AK Pmags IIRC.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dov View Post
    You mention steel cases ammo, is yours a 7.62x39? I only ask because that's one I've looked at buying several times and only wonder about feed reliability since it uses AK Pmags IIRC.
    No, mine is .308.

    Generally speaking I try to maintain calibers that are native to the platform for ease of life, after experimenting with Soviet surplus 5.45 in ar’s and rimless pistol ammo in revolvers.

    The three exceptions I have is my 9x19 1911, which needed some work from Dan Wesson to be reliable to my expectations, a PWS piston AR to mitigate gas to the face (it essentially is only shot suppressed), and a BRN-180 for a pack gun (could argue since the receiver isn’t a 180).

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dov View Post
    You mention steel cases ammo, is yours a 7.62x39? I only ask because that's one I've looked at buying several times and only wonder about feed reliability since it uses AK Pmags IIRC.
    There are several imported steel case .308 loads on the market and Hornady previously offered a .308 steel Match load.

    The PTR-32s I’ve seen have all functioned reliably.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul D View Post
    Okay, maybe the chambers are different. This representative picture shows what my gun does to brass (besides denting it and launching it 25 yards away).

    Name:  R.jpg
Views: 260
Size:  60.1 KB
    None of the HK 91s I shot (6+) did that.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by HCM View Post
    There are several imported steel case .308 loads on the market and Hornady previously offered a .308 steel Match load.

    The PTR-32s I’ve seen have all functioned reliably.
    Thanks.

    Now if I could just increase cashflow some more I might actually be able to budget for one sooner than 3-4 years

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dov View Post
    Thanks.

    Now if I could just increase cashflow some more I might actually be able to budget for one sooner than 3-4 years
    See sig tagline......

  9. #19
    Thank you all for your help.Do you all have an opinion on the PTR113 GIRK(surplus furniture,metal lower) vs. the PTR114 A3SK (new furniture,polymer lower),both are 16"?thank you.
    Ron

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RONK View Post
    Thank you all for your help.Do you all have an opinion on the PTR113 GIRK(surplus furniture,metal lower) vs. the PTR114 A3SK (new furniture,polymer lower),both are 16"?thank you.
    Ron
    Honestly, I'd try and shoot one before you buy, to have an idea if you are okay with the factory stock/grip/safety/etc.. If you find it's awkward to reach the trigger, manipulate the safety, etc., and are planning on swapping them out, then whichever one you find at the cheaper price.

    I got mine for a song from a range who was selling off their rentals - the Scar 17S was shot a ton, the M1A a bit, and the PTR91 hardly at all - and let's face it, it's not in video games, so if folks are spending the coin anyway, they're shooting the Scar. I got mine for $600 in 2022.

    A surplus stock cost me $8 and let me see the sights, and sending it off for a paddle mag release cost about $200 going off memory, and I think the grip/safety cost about $80.

    Even modifying the gun and buying parts I'm way ahead buying new.

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