My EPS carry shake awake was defective. Out of the box, (literally did nothing but put a Duracell in it) it would not turn on after 10 minutes of inactivity. Called Holosun, we ran through a reset procedure over the phone and it’s still not working properly. I shut the shake awake off and it’s been fine but I’d like a fully functioning sight. They issued me an RMA and it’s going back.
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This is one of the reasons I prefer the no-frills 6MOA version of EPS Carry. Same thing with 407k over 507k. I don't get confused with Lockout-NoLockout-Auto and there are fewer things to go wrong (canted reticle, auto-brightness, etc.). I mean, it'd be a perfectly fine red dot without the shake-awake but there should be no defects in the functionality. So, if they designed it with shake-awake, then it better work every time. The only Holosuns I buy are their pistol red dots and I mount, put in a fresh Duracell, set the brightness and lock it out. If the dot is ever not there when I pick up the pistol, it goes back to Holosun.
Finally got my EPS in for my PX4 and wanted to share initial impressions on passive aiming for those of you interested in that, as I havent seen much on that aspect of these sights. I played around the house and yard, havent actually shot it yet.
The light transmission under NV is much better than with the 507 series, impressive for such a small window. It is noticeably less good than an AEMS or Steiner MPS, but overall seems good enough for most all shooting you would do with a handgun. Unfortunately that nice glass is held back by the reticle, which does not get dim enough for use in very dark environments. It is much brighter than a 507/407 on its lowest setting. I wonder if this would be better with a 2MOA model?
The MPS has this same issue, which unfortunately limits its passive aiming capability despite having really good glass. However, my MPS is offset on a rifle, while the EPS will be on a handgun, and on a handgun the performance is likely good enough.
Also, speaking of window size, the EPS, 507, and MPS are all within hundreths of eachother in both dimensions when it comes to usabke window size.
I can 100% confirm that what @GJM put forth as a possible cause is what happened. The buttons on my EPS 6 MOA are more "clicky" than the ones on my 509T x2, and I can easily reproduce turning the dot off with the palm of my left hand by grasping the slide over the optic. It's very easy to do, so I need to get in the habit of using the lockout mode and maybe change my method of slide manipulation.
Hi all
I already have the Holosun HE509T-GR-X2 and have been using it for a while with no problems.
I bought the Holosun ELITE EPS-CARRY-GR-MRS and put it on my Shadow 2. Its fits perfect with a mount plate and i like the size but i have some poblems.
1. I could not adjust the dot high enough (so i would have to point higher in order to hit center.
2. The 32MO ring and the dot is not round but oval. (its not my eyes because the HE509T-GR-X2 is perfectly round) and others have comfirmed
Does anyone have same experience with the EPS-CARRY ?
I Returned mine this morning but now im unsure if i want to buy a new one its the same.
I wanted to attach a picture so you could see how the pistol looks but i cant seam to attach anything here? - is there a workarround i dont see
Anyone else run out of elevation adjustment on their EPS Carry? I mounted 6MOA version on a P365 XMacro slide and was happy to see pretty decent alignment out of the box. The ears for the built-in rear sight are lower than the factory sight and don’t interfere with my sight picture like the 407k did. I get about a lower-eighth co-witness.
However, zeroing at 25 yards with 124gr, I bottomed out my elevation adjustment although I didn’t have to adjust windage at all.
Depending upon how you tighten the screws on some 365 slides, I have seen windage problems if you don't center the optic in the slot before tightening. Not sure if that could influence elevation as well. Before pulling the optic, I might loosen the screws, make sure the optic is centered and sitting flush, and that screws are not too long. Darryl and I spoke about his EPS Carry screws being too long on his Macro slide, and I gave him the McMaster part number for the shorter screws spec'd by SoCalDeputy.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
I had a similar issue with an EPS direct milled on a P-07. The holes were exactly the length of the screws, leaving no space for stretch of the metal on tightening (or chaff at the bottom of the hole). The result was an optic that would not hold a consistent zero. Thanks to a tip from @JCN, I figured that out instead of sending a perfectly good optic back to Holosun.
Here's how I determined the proper RDS mounting screw length:
1. Clean screw holes. Use canned air (eyepro!). Shine a light and look for milling chaff. Remove with a hooked pin if necessary.
2. Trim burrs from ends of screws if necessary using a file.
3. Mark top of screw with a dot using a pencil or paint marker.
4. Measure the number of turns required to bottom out each screw in each hole to the nearest 1/4 turn.
5. Mount optic and test whether there is at least 1 full turn remaining after tightening to ~10 in-lb. (I use 1.5 turns). If there is, rock on and torque to spec.
6. If screws are too long, trim using a Dremel and the flat of a cutoff wheel, grinding while turning screw to keep the end flat. De-burr with polishing paper.
7. Go back to step 5 until it passes the 1 full turn test (record required screw length for each hole).
@SoCalDep, @JCN
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie