Selecting Dot(s) for EDC *and* USPSA

[Caballoflaco]

Totally agree. I have a pack of silver sharpies that I use for labeling holsters that work great on black optic screws.
Normal sharpie for silver screws.

I like the three pack “metallic” sharpies. They have a bronze and copper color as well as silver that has been a lot more durable on silver surfaces for me than plain sharpie. I use them on bows, and guns and they don’t come off without some work.

[JCN]

I find the right tools are the most important part of not stripping screws when installing and removing optics.

https://chpws.com/product/mrds-maintenance-kit

$99 for that seems a little steep for what you get.

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accur.../dp/B0012AXR4S

For $46 and you can use it for other small parts. If you have different hex bits around already that makes it even more versatile.

And Sharpies and adhesive aren’t expensive.
So probably $30 less overall with more function IMO.

[JAD]

RTV silicone has very poor shear strength. I would not rely on that for this use. Vibratite would be a better choice.

It's also best practice to keep silicone away from electronics. Shit migrates all over.

[GJM]

$99 for that seems a little steep for what you get.

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accur.../dp/B0012AXR4S

For $46 and you can use it for other small parts. If you have different hex bits around already that makes it even more versatile.

And Sharpies and adhesive aren’t expensive.
So probably $30 less overall with more function IMO.

I also have the Wheeler. What I like about the “Fix It Sticks” tool is it is small enough to be in my pistol bag. I assume you can buy just that.

[JCN]

I also have the Wheeler. What I like about the “Fix It Sticks” tool is it is small enough to be in my pistol bag. I assume you can buy just that.

Good points. I have loose Allen and torx wrenches in my range bag for use in a pinch until I get home. That way if I lose it or don’t bring my bag in, I have my bench at home still set up.

Looks like the tool and the torque limiter are $36 each. Tool could likely be easily replaced by a hex head screwdriver that you might keep in your trunk anyway.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/10...MaAlVUEALw_wcB

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/10...YaAs0vEALw_wcB

[Clusterfrack]

Several years ago I had a chat with Haakan Spuhr about repeatable torque on scope mounts. He strongly recommended torque measurement to set the initial position of each bolt. However, once that is done, the witness mark represents the best, repeatable internal torque for the clamp. Re-torqueing bolts will alter that can can cause a POI change.

[RJ]

Thanks David. That explains why someone might opt to use an aftermarket plate and not the MIM plate that comes with the gun. I really like the look of that C&H polymer V4 plate with the Defender window. Makes a lot of sense. Guess I'll need an inch-lb torque wrench as well, sigh. Thanks again.

https://chpws.com/product/defender-m...08t-round-face

Just to update where I'm at on this.

I did end up ordering the Defender V4 plate from C&H. It arrived today. Unfortunately, when I ordered it late Sunday night, I accidentally put the RMR V4 in my cart, and not the Holosun version. My bad. It's on it's way back to C&H, with a request to exchange it for the Holosun version. They were very helpful when I called on the phone.

I also went through @NickDrak's stickied thread here: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....worked-for-me); what a great resource that is. Appreciate @HCM steering me there to take a look. There's a useful post about sourcing M3 screws for the plate, so I ordered a couple of those from Big Tex Outdoors. These are the screws:

https://www.bigtexoutdoors.com/produ...ates-set-of-2/

Still pondering install torque; being a retired Engineer, I'm probably overthinking it. The Holosun user manual sugests 15 inch lbs, and "medium/blue" thread locker, for the optic. More than likely that's what I'll use.



The "install" thread above suggests 15 inch lbs. The C&H Fixit Stick tool they sell/use is 10 inch lbs. At any rate, I do plan on using VC-3, not blue loctite. I recalled I had several of the little tubes of it from various holster orders from JM CK. Since I will probably use just a teeny amount of locker, I dumped a tube of it into a spare small needle oiler bottle I have. When I need to apply the VC-3, I'll use the oiler.

I went to Michael's Craft store today and bought a Sharpie Oil Based Paint Marker, fine point for $3.99, to torque stripe the screws. The Wheeler FAT wrench arrived via the Brown Truck. It lacks a T10 torx bit in the set which it came with, but I have one from another set of ok-quality hex/torx bits (brand is Craftsman, but probably comes from China; who knows these days).

Same for a new Duracell 1632 battery, which I will install and start tracking battery life. Not that the one that is in the 507c now isn't working, I just plan to replace it to have a baseline.

I'm still hemming and hawing about sights. I will most likely order the Ameriglo black/black GL-429 set from Primary Machine and call it a day. I made up a couple zeroing targets to take to the range, as well, to help with the "MOA" adjustment at 10 yards and 25 yards.

My_MRDS_ZERO_AT_10.pdf
My_MRDS_ZERO_AT_25.pdf

Phew! Hopefully I will have all this put together in the next week or so, and can get to the shooting part. I really appreciate all you guys help.

[HCM]

Just to update where I'm at on this.

I did end up ordering the Defender V4 plate from C&H. It arrived today. Unfortunately, when I ordered it late Sunday night, I accidentally put the RMR V4 in my cart, and not the Holosun version. My bad. It's on it's way back to C&H, with a request to exchange it for the Holosun version. They were very helpful when I called on the phone.

I also went through @NickDrak's stickied thread here: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....worked-for-me); what a great resource that is. Appreciate @HCM steering me there to take a look. There's a useful post about sourcing M3 screws for the plate, so I ordered a couple of those from Big Tex Outdoors. These are the screws:

https://www.bigtexoutdoors.com/produ...ates-set-of-2/

Still pondering install torque; being a retired Engineer, I'm probably overthinking it. The Holosun user manual sugests 15 inch lbs, and "medium/blue" thread locker, for the optic. More than likely that's what I'll use.



The "install" thread above suggests 15 inch lbs. The C&H Fixit Stick tool they sell/use is 10 inch lbs. At any rate, I do plan on using VC-3, not blue loctite. I recalled I had several of the little tubes of it from various holster orders from JM CK. Since I will probably use just a teeny amount of locker, I dumped a tube of it into a spare small needle oiler bottle I have. When I need to apply the VC-3, I'll use the oiler.

I went to Michael's Craft store today and bought a Sharpie Oil Based Paint Marker, fine point for $3.99, to torque stripe the screws. The Wheeler FAT wrench arrived via the Brown Truck. It lacks a T10 torx bit in the set which it came with, but I have one from another set of ok-quality hex/torx bits (brand is Craftsman, but probably comes from China; who knows these days).

Same for a new Duracell 1632 battery, which I will install and start tracking battery life. Not that the one that is in the 507c now isn't working, I just plan to replace it to have a baseline.

I'm still hemming and hawing about sights. I will most likely order the Ameriglo black/black GL-429 set from Primary Machine and call it a day. I made up a couple zeroing targets to take to the range, as well, to help with the "MOA" adjustment at 10 yards and 25 yards.

My_MRDS_ZERO_AT_10.pdf
My_MRDS_ZERO_AT_25.pdf

Phew! Hopefully I will have all this put together in the next week or so, and can get to the shooting part. I really appreciate all you guys help.

If you are using the C&H plate, use the the torque values C&H recommends not what the optic maker recommends.

because the posts on the C&H plates come up into the optic's screw holes, the C&H plate use smaller screws. Smaller screws = lower torque values.

[RJ]

If you are using the C&H plate, use the the torque values C&H recommends not what the optic maker recommends.

because the posts on the C&H plates come up into the optic's screw holes, the C&H plate use smaller screws. Smaller screws = lower torque values.

Gotcha.

So 10 in lbs for the Optic to C&H plate, and 15 for the M3 screw from the C&H plate to the slide, or 10 for both?

[HCM]

Gotcha.

So 10 in lbs for the Optic to C&H plate, and 15 for the M3 screw from the C&H plate to the slide, or 10 for both?

Sounds ok but Go with what ever C&H says.