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Thread: How to make dummy rounds out of live rounds?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by SecondsCount View Post
    That's an idea but you will need to resize the neck after doing it that way, which means you will need 300 BLK dies.
    Help me understand that part…

    For a 300 blackout dummy round if I’m not chambering then I don’t care so much, correct?

    And for a 300 blackout dummy round that I chamber if I’m less stretchy with the removal then it’ll probably still chamber as a dummy round, no?

    I have 9mm dummy rounds that are pretty loose that chamber fine, which is what I’m basing my thoughts off of.

    Obviously if you’re going to shoot them, then resizing is necessary.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCN View Post
    Help me understand that part…

    For a 300 blackout dummy round if I’m not chambering then I don’t care so much, correct?

    And for a 300 blackout dummy round that I chamber if I’m less stretchy with the removal then it’ll probably still chamber as a dummy round, no?

    I have 9mm dummy rounds that are pretty loose that chamber fine, which is what I’m basing my thoughts off of.

    Obviously if you’re going to shoot them, then resizing is necessary.
    He's stretching the case neck out so that it loses grip on the bullet.

    First issue, after reseating the bullet, the case won't hold the bullet with a lot of tension because of the stretching. It could fall out, and could be a bigger issue if it sticks in the chamber.

    2nd issue is the case neck is a larger diameter than normal because of the stretching. It is likely that it will be too big to fit the chamber.

    A resizing die will squeeze everything back to the correct dimensions. It slightly undersizes the neck so that there is tension on the bullet when seated.

    Pulling the bullet using conventional methods does not stretch the case neck.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

  3. #23
    Member SecondsCount's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WDR View Post
    I would like to know more about that...

    Adding some inert filler in the cases to prevent setback is also a good idea.
    The material was a scrap piece that a customer gave me. Let me ask him what it is and get back to you.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SecondsCount View Post
    He's stretching the case neck out so that it loses grip on the bullet.

    First issue, after reseating the bullet, the case won't hold the bullet with a lot of tension because of the stretching. It could fall out, and could be a bigger issue if it sticks in the chamber.

    2nd issue is the case neck is a larger diameter than normal because of the stretching. It is likely that it will be too big to fit the chamber.

    A resizing die will squeeze everything back to the correct dimensions. It slightly undersizes the neck so that there is tension on the bullet when seated.

    Pulling the bullet using conventional methods does not stretch the case neck.
    Yup. But the thought was to stretch a little and then inertia it out a little and then press it back in a little and use a little glue.

    Because that’s basically how my dummy rounds are right now as purchased.

    Silicone caulk works well in primer pockets.

    Silicone RTV would work even better I would think.
    Last edited by JCN; 11-13-2022 at 07:59 PM.

  5. #25
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    .300BO lacks sufficient neck tension to reseat bullets without crimping and expect them to not ultimately setback, but if you fill the case with something it's not really a big deal.

    The aforementioned approach of pulling the bullets. You can buy a Frankford Arsenal bullet puller for ~12 bucks and dumping the powder is what I would do. You can use a decapping pin (Squirrel Daddy has nice pins for 5 bucks) and a mallet to pop the primer out from the inside. I used to do this with a Lee Loader, I took a decent size bundle of newspaper, set the case mouth up, line up the pin and give it a good whack with a mallet, with the paper providing the base. You could take a piece of 1x or 2x and drill a hole that is primer sized and then countersink the top of it so it is the size of your .300BO rim. Set the piece of brass in, line up the pin, hit it, move on.

    To reseat the bullets, you can either borrow someone's reloading press, or if they're FMJs, apply a little grease to the base, flip your same chunk of wood over, place it over the bullet and tap it with your mallet. Do not forget the cornmeal or other case filler though, or you will push the bullet right through the neck and into the case (ask me how I know...).

    Fill the primer pocket with RTV or Silicone.

  6. #26
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    May as well get on with the idea; I hear that Hannah Gutierrez Reed’s job is open right now…

    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

  7. #27
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    Why not just shoot them?

  8. #28
    Clearing feeding stoppages every 5-10 gets tiresome. Getting popped primers from under the trigger every 50 is annoying.
    Frankly, not sure if this shit isn't going to screw the rifle up somehow.
    Doesn't read posts longer than two paragraphs.

  9. #29
    Site Supporter Hambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by YVK View Post
    Clearing feeding stoppages every 5-10 gets tiresome. Getting popped primers from under the trigger every 50 is annoying.
    Frankly, not sure if this shit isn't going to screw the rifle up somehow.
    Trade/give them to someone who reloads and who take them apart. I pulled bullets from some ammo for a rifle I owned decades ago. Then, being a cheap bastid, I de-primed the cases and used the factory Winchester primers in something else. Then, being a generous guy, I gave the brass to someone on a forum who desperately needed it.
    "Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA

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