The PX4 Compact might be my DA/SA Glock 19

[beenalongtime]

Can someone with a mod 4 or 5 tell me, if their sear is NP3 coated, and do you have the bobbed hammer?
I thought I remembered EL mentioning not to do both the hammer and sear, but searching, what I found was the sear was listed in the treated parts, with nothing said about the hammer.
Thanks

[BJV]

Can someone with a mod 4 or 5 tell me, if their sear is NP3 coated, and do you have the bobbed hammer?
I thought I remembered EL mentioning not to do both the hammer and sear, but searching, what I found was the sear was listed in the treated parts, with nothing said about the hammer.
Thanks

I have Mod 4s with NP3 sears and NP3 bobbed hammers. Top notch (ha ha).

[LangdonTactical]

Can someone with a mod 4 or 5 tells me, if their sear is NP3 coated, and do you have the bobbed hammer?
I thought I remembered EL mentioning not to do both the hammer and sear, but searching, what I found was the sear was listed in the treated parts, with nothing said about the hammer.
Thanks

So, there is really no such thing as a MOD 4 or MOD 5 anymore. Those were modification levels that we did when we were partnered with Robar. We now do what is basically a MOD 5, with a spurless hammer and NP3ed parts. In this case, the Spurless hammer is NP3ed as well as the sear, sear pin, hammer struts, trigger pin, trigger bar, barrel, and barrel cam. Plus the barrel is flush cut and reverse crowned.

The old "MOD 4" did not have the crowned barrel or spurless hammer, or NP3 on the hammer.

Hope this helps.

[beenalongtime]

So, there is really no such thing as a MOD 4 or MOD 5 anymore. Those were modification levels that we did when we were partnered with Robar. We now do what is basically a MOD 5, with a spurless hammer and NP3ed parts. In this case, the Spurless hammer is NP3ed as well as the sear, sear pin, hammer struts, trigger pin, trigger bar, barrel, and barrel cam. Plus the barrel is flush cut and reverse crowned.

The old "MOD 4" did not have the crowned barrel or spurless hammer, or NP3 on the hammer.

Hope this helps.

VERY much it helps.
I was not sure of the current terminology (mod 4/5/full boat, etc), and since Robar is gone, I couldn't look it up (thought the difference was the barrel and maybe the option of the hammer).
I thought I remembered you talking about don't do the sear AND hammer, but couldn't find that in any posts I could think of.
I did find an old post with the other parts, and since I am trying to clear up my own confusion on things as I am trying to help someone I know make their own choices. (has kids, debating about safety verses decocker, sights, Compact carry or regular model (handed) etc, taking several of mine to the range to determine preferences)
I also realized I had started to pick up some bad habits from here, due to misunderstandings/vocabulary. The primary one, was about reset. I didn't ride it before and only started in dry fire after hearing about all the short reset things/trigger bars, then went back through your video's where you said don't ride the reset. Back to the new PX4 trigger bar announcement, where the reset was made a big deal of, and confusion for a few days, until I got back home and realized the reset is all about breaking in the same place DA/SA.
Sometimes it takes me a bit, but I need to understand it, to be able to explain things clearly to her.

THANK YOU!

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

... the reset is all about breaking in the same place DA/SA.

I would not want to reopen a box of confusion, but for clarity... the reset variation between a new OP trigger bar and the stock one does not cause the DA/SA to break in the same place. They break in the same place DA/SA for either trigger bar. It is necessary for the firing pin block plunger to be fully disengaged and the sear held forward to the same spot. So, DA/SA always breaks in the same spot of the trigger movement of a PX4 Storm.

The difference in reset applies to how far forward you must return the trigger to be able to take the next shot. This affects SA only. It means that the "take up" is done away with and rearward movement of the trigger before getting to the "wall" (sear contact) is less.

Also, a new shooter might find it safer until trigger finger control is good to use a standard trigger bar. That take up could add a layer of safety as she gains a feel for the trigger. I also recommend a safety for a new shooter with kids, if possible. She does not have to pass up on the excellent Compact Carry. She could have safety levers installed and one day switch back to a decock only.

[LangdonTactical]

I would not want to reopen a box of confusion, but for clarity... the reset variation between a new OP trigger bar and the stock one does not cause the DA/SA to break in the same place. They break in the same place DA/SA for either trigger bar. It is necessary for the firing pin block plunger to be fully disengaged and the sear held forward to the same spot. So, DA/SA always breaks in the same spot of the trigger movement of a PX4 Storm.

The difference in reset applies to how far forward you must return the trigger to be able to take the next shot. This affects SA only. It means that the "take up" is done away with and rearward movement of the trigger before getting to the "wall" (sear contact) is less.

Also, a new shooter might find it safer until trigger finger control is good to use a standard trigger bar. That take up could add a layer of safety as she gains a feel for the trigger. I also recommend a safety for a new shooter with kids, if possible. She does not have to pass up on the excellent Compact Carry. She could have safety levers installed and one day switch back to a decock only.

So this is not correct either. It is correct when it comes to where the DA and the SA break and that the breakpoints do not change with the OP trigger bar, at least not significantly. That said, there is no reduction in "take up" with the OP trigger bar. There is also no reduction in "Sear Contact" with the OP trigger bar. The pre-travel of the trigger does not change. The only thing that is happening is the firing pin block stays out of the way when the trigger is held to the rear after the shot fires. So the trigger bar resets only on the sear, not on the firing pin block lever. This is the same way almost all other Simi auto pistols function. It is also the way that other short reset systems work, i.e. the Sig SRT trigger system.

It is perfectly safe, and the only way it would or could possibly be unsafe is one situation. You fire the gun, hold the trigger to the rear, and then start running around with the trigger held to the rear. Then you fall, while still holding the trigger to the rear, and land on the muzzle in such a way and with enough force that the firing pin block would be necessary to keep the gun from firing. Once the finger comes off the trigger fully, the firing pin block is engaged and the gun is safe as long as you don't pull the trigger. So if you follow basic safety rules, you will be fine. If you do not follow basic safety rules, no firing pin block is going to help you. Because, if you pull the trigger, the gun will go bang.

We have done a full battery of drop test with the OP trigger bar, with a full house trigger job with a 3.25 lb single-action, from 6 feet, onto concrete, both with the hammer down and the hammer cocked. This test includes impact attitudes to test all situations properly. We did this as recently as last week for the testing of some new parts. It is not a fun thing to do, destroying a very nice gun in the process, but absolutely necessary.

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

So this is not correct either. It is correct when it comes to where the DA and the SA break and that the breakpoints do not change with the OP trigger bar, at least not significantly. That said, there is no reduction in "take up" with the OP trigger bar. There is also no reduction in "Sear Contact" with the OP trigger bar. The pre-travel of the trigger does not change. The only thing that is happening is the firing pin block stays out of the way when the trigger is held to the rear after the shot fires. So the trigger bar resets only on the sear, not on the firing pin block lever. This is the same way almost all other Simi auto pistols function. It is also the way that other short reset systems work, i.e. the Sig SRT trigger system.

It is perfectly safe, and the only way it would or could possibly be unsafe is one situation. You fire the gun, hold the trigger to the rear, and then start running around with the trigger held to the rear. Then you fall, while still holding the trigger to the rear, and land on the muzzle in such a way and with enough force that the firing pin block would be necessary to keep the gun from firing. Once the finger comes off the trigger fully, the firing pin block is engaged and the gun is safe as long as you don't pull the trigger. So if you follow basic safety rules, you will be fine. If you do not follow basic safety rules, no firing pin block is going to help you. Because, if you pull the trigger, the gun will go bang.

We have done a full battery of drop test with the OP trigger bar, with a full house trigger job with a 3.25 lb single-action, from 6 feet, onto concrete, both with the hammer down and the hammer cocked. This test includes impact attitudes to test all situations properly. We did this as recently as last week for the testing of some new parts. It is not a fun thing to do, destroying a very nice gun in the process, but absolutely necessary.

I don't know what I wrote that caused the appearance of disagreement. Everything you mentioned is true and I never thought otherwise. My statement was about a new shooter having a shaky or inexperienced trigger finger and a <.10" reset might make a "stutter fire" where they twitch off a second shot. I am not referring to any safety deficit or poor engineering. Experienced shooters have reported accidental double taps until they got used to the shorter reset.

There is no reduction in take up with the OP trigger bar when you completely remove your finger from the trigger. This was the reference I intended. The point of the shorter reset is to have less take up, as well as less distance to cover resetting. That is all I meant. I did not mean that it was an unsafe part. I also did not write that sear contact was less, but movement to sear contact from reset is less.

[LangdonTactical]

I don't know what I wrote that caused the appearance of disagreement. Everything you mentioned is true and I never thought otherwise. My statement was about a new shooter having a shaky or inexperienced trigger finger and a <.10" reset might make a "stutter fire" where they twitch off a second shot. I am not referring to any safety deficit or poor engineering. Experienced shooters have reported accidental double taps until they got used to the shorter reset.

There is no reduction in take up with the OP trigger bar when you completely remove your finger from the trigger. This was the reference I intended. The point of the shorter reset is to have less take up, as well as less distance to cover resetting. That is all I meant. I did not mean that it was an unsafe part. I also did not write that sear contact was less, but movement to sear contact from reset is less.

Understood, my apologies. I miss understood what you meant by "take-up" and Sear Engagement.

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

Understood, my apologies. I miss understood what you meant by "take-up" and Sear Engagement.

It is my fault... sometimes in trying to word things correctly I make them harder to understand.

[medmo]

I think we can all agree to not go running around with fingers on triggers, (fully depressed or not), or with scissors in our hands. Let’s all swear to it.

I, STATE YOUR NAME, do solemnly swear to all of my fellow P-F’ers to never run around with my finger on the trigger or while holding any sharp or pointy things. So help me God.

Also, I don’t necessarily agree with the starting out a new shooter with training wheels. I think it’s best to start learning what ever the pistol is that they would carry/shoot right away. I feel the same way about new riders on motorcycles. Don’t spend 6 months learning how to ride a 250cc Honda Rebel so you can relearn to ride your Ducati. It’s a waste of time getting on your true learning curve and might even make it harder as you have to change habits.