Heckler and Koch trigger return spring tool?

[breakingtime91]

Because it directly affects the firing pin block safety plunger.
They'd be in a world of shit if the weaker spring resulted in a non drop safe pistol... especially if it was dropped and fired.
A product liability/personal injury lawyers wet dream right there.

so is the tlg safe? this is the first time I've heard reference that it may not be.. seeing as its more medium ground between the v1/v2

[JodyH]

so is the tlg safe? this is the first time I've heard reference that it may not be.. seeing as its more medium ground between the v1/v2

Yes it's safe.

But the manufacturer specifies a stiffer spring.
By installing a lighter spring in the firing pin block safety they take on the liability if anything goes wrong.

The FPB spring returns the plunger to the safe position.
If a build up of crap gummed up the FPB plunger to the point the lighter spring could not return it to the safe position, the primary drop safety is now disabled.
They would be fools to take on and support that liability when they cannot control how the end user maintains their pistol.

[BobLoblaw]

I dropped a heavy TRS in a V1 and thought it was the TLG variant. So now I need a lighter firing pin block spring and a nickel-plated sear spring?

[BaiHu]

I spoke to HK today and it seems pointless for me to switch to a V2 from a V1. It only makes the trigger heavier and does nothing to make the take up firmer/heavier. It's the take up to the 'wall' that bothers me. Odd since I really have no issues with a DA/SA in comparison.

[breakingtime91]

I dropped a heavy TRS in a V1 and thought it was the TLG variant. So now I need a lighter firing pin block spring and a nickel-plated sear spring?

not sure, I bought a used p2000 and it was the TLG variant. I just assumed it had a heavier trs..

[JodyH]

I spoke to HK today and it seems pointless for me to switch to a V2 from a V1. It only makes the trigger heavier and does nothing to make the take up firmer/heavier. It's the take up to the 'wall' that bothers me. Odd since I really have no issues with a DA/SA in comparison.

Whoever you spoke to was incorrect.

Take your slide off and watch how the trigger works.
With the LEM the mainspring (and cocking piece aka: "inner hammer") is almost completely pre-cocked by the action.
For the initial takeup the ONLY springs involved are the TRS and the elbow spring (the elbow spring basically keeps the hammer from flopping around and tension on a few other parts).
The flat spring is in there as well but it's more of a spring that creates drag and holds tension on parts (like the hammer catch) instead of adding any real weight to the trigger pull.
There's also the trigger bar detent and spring that create some drag while keeping the trigger bar in the correct alignment.
It's that way until the trigger goes back far enough to start compressing the FPB spring (which is right before the sear trips). It's that way in order to block the striker from impacting a primer unless the trigger is pulled fully rearward.
This is also when the outer hammer rotates far enough to finally contact the inner cocking piece which rotates and trips the sear which drops the hammer.
It's only when the cocking piece starts to rotate that the mainspring is compressed by the trigger.
The initial takeup weight is pretty much all TRS.
There is a 3-4# difference in the initial takeup weight between a V1 and a V2 and it's all due to the TRS.

[JodyH]

not sure, I bought a used p2000 and it was the TLG variant. I just assumed it had a heavier trs..

Every V2 P2000 I own or have looked at comes with the lighter FPB spring installed.
The TLG variant is a P30 modification, it's the P30 which comes with the heavier FPB spring installed.
To make a TLG you're putting a P2000 FPB spring into a P30.
To determine which TRS you have, the light spring is round wire and usually gold in color, the heavier spring is square wire and usually black in color (there's also a "Match" TRS that's round and black).
As to the nickel plated flat spring, it came out because maritime customs officers were having issues with the standard spring rusting. I've never installed one because after a few thousand rounds my standard spring had polished itself to where it feels just fine.

[breakingtime91]

Every V2 P2000 I own or have looked at comes with the lighter FPB spring installed.
The TLG variant is a P30 modification, it's the P30 which comes with the heavier FPB spring installed.
To make a TLG you're putting a P2000 FPB spring into a P30.
To determine which TRS you have, the light spring is round wire and usually gold in color, the heavier spring is square wire and usually black in color (there's also a "Match" TRS that's round and black).
As to the nickel plated flat spring, it came out because maritime customs officers were having issues with the standard spring rusting. I've never installed one because after a few thousand rounds my standard spring had polished itself to where it feels just fine.

ok cool. The person I bought it from had it sent to hk to do the springs so I'm not worried about it. Really enjoying this thread, learning a lot about the pistol.

ps. mines defiantly the heavy. square wire

[JodyH]

With a P2000, buy a V2 and shoot the shit out of it. If you do 12 hour shifts on a boat in the ocean buy the nickel plated flat spring.

With a P30, buy a V2 and shoot the shit out of it. If you do 12 hour shifts on a boat in the ocean buy the nickel plated flat spring. If you want to knock a pound or so off the trigger weight right at the hammer trip install a P2000 FPB spring.

I don't mess with the mainspring weight on either one of them because I like SOLID primer whacks (that's why I like hammers).
I don't mess with the light TRS because for me it makes the takeup too light which exaggerates the "ramp up" to hammer trip the LEM has, it also makes for a weaker, slower reset.
The light TRS makes the entire trigger travel feel vague to me, I like some tension against my finger throughout the entire trigger stroke.
I don't mess with the nickel flatspring because the regular one polishes in just fine with use and I live in the dry ass desert and don't have to worry about corrosion.

[BaiHu]

Whoever you spoke to was incorrect.

Take your slide off and watch how the trigger works.
With the LEM the mainspring (and cocking piece aka: "inner hammer") is almost completely pre-cocked by the action.
For the initial takeup the ONLY springs involved are the TRS and the elbow spring (the elbow spring basically keeps the hammer from flopping around and tension on a few other parts).
The flat spring is in there as well but it's more of a spring that creates drag and holds tension on parts (like the hammer catch) instead of adding any real weight to the trigger pull.
There's also the trigger bar detent and spring that create some drag while keeping the trigger bar in the correct alignment.
It's that way until the trigger goes back far enough to start compressing the FPB spring (which is right before the sear trips). It's that way in order to block the striker from impacting a primer unless the trigger is pulled fully rearward.
This is also when the outer hammer rotates far enough to finally contact the inner cocking piece which rotates and trips the sear which drops the hammer.
It's only when the cocking piece starts to rotate that the mainspring is compressed by the trigger.
The initial takeup weight is pretty much all TRS.
There is a 3-4# difference in the initial takeup weight between a V1 and a V2 and it's all due to the TRS.

Thank you. So this means the V2 will have 3-4# more of take up pressure?