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Thread: Beretta 92D With Updates

  1. #161
    Member JonInWA's Avatar
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    Some other things/upgraded components I forgot to mention; the recoil spring assembly has been upgraded to a BUSA solid steel recoil spring guide rod and a Wilson Combat 14# chrome silicon recoil spring; the firing pin spring has been replaced with a Wilson Combat chrome silicon firing pin spring; and I also am running the extractor with a Wilson Combat standard strength chrome silicon spring.

    The locking block assembly has been upgraded to the current generation of Beretta 92 locking block assembly.

    I've already discussed all this before, but thought I'd recapitulate for the benefit of those new to the thread.

    Best, Jon

  2. #162
    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    Some other things/upgraded components I forgot to mention; the recoil spring assembly has been upgraded to a BUSA solid steel recoil spring guide rod and a Wilson Combat 14# chrome silicon recoil spring; the firing pin spring has been replaced with a Wilson Combat chrome silicon firing pin spring; and I also am running the extractor with a Wilson Combat standard strength chrome silicon spring.

    The locking block assembly has been upgraded to the current generation of Beretta 92 locking block assembly.

    I've already discussed all this before, but thought I'd recapitulate for the benefit of those new to the thread.

    Best, Jon
    Thanks for the continuing updates, Jon.

  3. #163
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    You're not talking me out of a Centurion here.
    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    No, I'm not. And I suspect that a D-model Centurion or a Compact would intrinsically be easier to shoot single-handedly, as the balance portion of the component would be significantly addressed.

    Nevertheless, my 92D is a great gun, and I'm committed to dedicate the time and technique necessary to achieve mastery (well, at least competence) regarding my single-handed shooting with it.
    Well, after a couple years of having a GB search set up for "92D Centurion," the lines of apparent condition and acceptable price finally intersected in a place where I had to go for it. I even posted a link in the "Want to buy a 92D Centurion" thread and none of you miserable P-Fers saved me from it. My Model 64 police trade-ins are ever closer to being for sale. My general idea is to do something more or less like Jon has done in this thread.

    Just wondering which trigger bar to choose: Wilson or LTT?

    Ernest has told me offline that his trigger bar would have limited benefit on a D. When I was shopping them on BF, the Wilson was a few bucks cheaper and comes with a spring kit bundled.

    There's some discussion in this thread https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....ce-Trigger-Bar about the Wilson moving the DA break farther back. With my large hands and long fingers, that's not desired. Other posters say they can't tell a difference.

    Has anyone installed them in the same gun (to eliminate sample-to-sample variation) and measured the DA break points?

    Is there any meaningful difference between them on a D model?

    @JonInWA @LangdonTactical
    .
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    Not another dime.

  4. #164
    Member JonInWA's Avatar
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    I talked to Ernest personally too, when his new options came out. Other than finish/aesthetics options, (if they appeal to you), for a D model, there's no operational advantage between his or the ones sold by Wilson. Best, Jon

  5. #165
    Site Supporter SeriousStudent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    .,...... My Model 64 police trade-ins are ever closer to being for sale.
    Tell us about these Model 64's.......Any of them a 2 inch or 3 inch?

  6. #166
    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    I talked to Ernest personally too, when his new options came out. Other than finish/aesthetics options, (if they appeal to you), for a D model, there's no operational advantage between his or the ones sold by Wilson. Best, Jon
    That being said, more the reason in my mind to go with the Langdon part to support the dude that has made a lot of this beretta love a reality.

  7. #167
    I haven't done a back to back comparison but have installed several of both TBs. Something I also started doing a couple years ago is reducing over travel via small pieces of various tape on the back of the trigger. You can see a small piece of light grey on this pistol.
    Home Brewed EII by craig stuard, on Flickr
    Reason I bring this up is my TJIBs started like everyone else w/ Wilson bars. I have since installed 3 LTT bars. When I changed the bars my tape thickness sometimes changed by one layer which is .012" thick. Some times it didn't change.

  8. #168
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    I like that idea. I'll probably mess around with foil tape for the purpose. I believe it's a little thinner for finer increments of change and should be less compressible for a more positive stop.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  9. #169
    Olong I have tried several tapes of various thicknesses and solidity. The one in the pic is actually a grey rubbery one used for stair traction. I used to make the tape about the same width as the trigger but sometimes that is too much. So I reduce the width. You can see on an older trigger that the contact to the frame is along a ridge on the frame and it is full trigger width. In the case of the rubber tape, reducing the width reduces the effect. I also use the tape I mentioned as being .012 thick. It is a UHMW clear plastic that is usually used to stop squeaks between two panels that rub on each other in a car. Also it works nicely as a slide agent like for a wooden drawer in a bureau. And it has a real good adhesive. I have also used pieces of black duct tape, and black electrical tape. Because lube can run onto the trigger from lubing it's pin, I always wipe the area off w/ brake cleaner or alcohol and I have never lost a piece of tape. When I first started doing this it was w/ my IDPA 92 w/ a TJIB. I shot just that gun for maybe 4-5 months. One day wife and I went to the range and I shot another 92. The DA pull w/ that huge overtravel and the trigger smacking the frame was a big surprise.

  10. #170
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Olong I have tried several tapes of various thicknesses and solidity. The one in the pic is actually a grey rubbery one used for stair traction. I used to make the tape about the same width as the trigger but sometimes that is too much. So I reduce the width. You can see on an older trigger that the contact to the frame is along a ridge on the frame and it is full trigger width. In the case of the rubber tape, reducing the width reduces the effect. I also use the tape I mentioned as being .012 thick. It is a UHMW clear plastic that is usually used to stop squeaks between two panels that rub on each other in a car. Also it works nicely as a slide agent like for a wooden drawer in a bureau. And it has a real good adhesive. I have also used pieces of black duct tape, and black electrical tape. Because lube can run onto the trigger from lubing it's pin, I always wipe the area off w/ brake cleaner or alcohol and I have never lost a piece of tape. When I first started doing this it was w/ my IDPA 92 w/ a TJIB. I shot just that gun for maybe 4-5 months. One day wife and I went to the range and I shot another 92. The DA pull w/ that huge overtravel and the trigger smacking the frame was a big surprise.

    So basically grip tape. I expect he, like a lot of us, probably has a piece or two from some gun that he bought grip tape for and didn't use it all.

    So CraigS, in your opinion, is he just better off with the factory bar, or looking for someone who updated their guns when the LTT bar came out?

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