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Thread: Lucas Gun Oil > MPro7...I think

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by LittleLebowski View Post
    As always, there is no black and white, only shades of gray. Make an informed choice, be ready to change if needed.
    Totally agree. Most people don't realize that grease comes in different viscosities just like oil does. Just about anything you can commonly buy at the WalMart or auto parts house is NLGI #2 wheel bearing grease. They are mostly too thick for use on guns except for M1 Garands and the M14/M1A which require it. NLGI #1 or #0 grease is much better being very soft to semi fluid but you have to hunt for those. They work much better on firearms. I've been using a light synthetic grease on all my autos for awhile now including all lube points on my AR with great results. My new hotness is Redline assembly lube but the grease that Liberty lubricants sells works pretty well too. Don't tump over the can on the Redline, it'll spill all over your bench. Doesn't get really cold where I'm at as long as we exclude last month. It's definitely synthetic oil or even dry for really cold conditions.

  2. #32
    Member orionz06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Archer1440 View Post
    Car boards, motorcycle boards and gun boards all have one thing in common...


    And this thread is it.
    At least the car and bike boards are generally in the ballpark and they're just arguing over brands.

    Quote Originally Posted by KEW8338 View Post
    Care to elaborate ?
    Quote Originally Posted by KEW8338 View Post
    This causes more issues how?
    As LL said, grease IS oil, with extra stuff. Grease will only be where you put it, oil can migrate around. Folks will get assed up and say it migrates away, but it's not like it flat out disappears. You can't add more grease without cleaning first. This is the biggest one, IMHO. I can add oil as needed and keep on keepin' on. If I use grease, I gotta do a teardown, get what's left of the soap out, and then start over. The other part is that oils do burn off. The oils in grease do too, leaving the soap. Grease will slow guns down. Grease in cold or humid environments can really slow things down, hell, some oils can really slow things down in the same environments (Frog Lube). Then there's the idea of storage... People want some magical lube that will allow the storage of a racked rifle for five years so you can yank it off the shelf and go. Not happening. Migration happens in grease too. The difference is that the greased gun will need cleaned and relubed before use, an oiled and stored gun can be treated like your first car, add oil and go.

    All that said, keeping guns running isn't hard, hence why so much stuff happens to work. Lots of folks are reading this and shaking their fist saying that their grease works wonders, and their experiences are probably right. Doesn't mean they're optimal though, and that's generally what we do here, give ourselves the best chances.


    Quote Originally Posted by Super77 View Post
    Grease in an AR is a hard no, it’s associated with stoppages even in hot environments. I tested some personally in a hot/humid env’t and had a lot of FTF. Went back to oil and no problems.

    I’ve done a bunch of high round count days with Slip2000 EWL. I use the heavier stuff, “30” I think. I’ve been using it for years. It does a good job of staying put, lubricates well, and doesn’t smell bad like motor oil. I haven’t tried everything, there might be better stuff out there, but the EWL has exceeded my expecations.
    Yeah, more folks should just find the free bottles of Slip that are out there and rock on.
    Think for yourself. Question authority.

  3. #33
    Sees all the posts condemning the use of grease.

    Looks inside my P30’s, USP’s and VP9’s, as well as P320’s, P365’s, P226’s and P229’s...as well as all my Geissele trigger assemblies...

    ...All of which came with grease in specific areas and oil in other areas, directly from the factory.

    In all seriousness, “grease what slides” and “oil what rotates” has been 100% functional for me over the past 30 years in temperatures between -20 and +120 and I see no reason to second guess the engineers in Oberndorf. I use the SLIP2000 EWL grease on sears, locking blocks and rails, and the SLIP liquid on other areas. Back in the 90’s I used the white TW25B grease on custom 1911’s as recommended by the manufacturers, and Lucas grease and oil on some items (back when SIG included samples with pistols).

    Even Glocks came with an anti-seize copper grease on the rail tabs for years. Maybe they still do.

    I have yet to have any kind of lubrication related malfunction- ever. And I use an appropriate grease on what slides and oil on what rotates.

    Carry on. I’ll throw a bag of popcorn into the microwave and come back later.

  4. #34
    Member orionz06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Archer1440 View Post
    I have yet to have any kind of lubrication related malfunction- ever.
    Right. Because guns aren't that damned hard to keep working.
    Think for yourself. Question authority.

  5. #35
    banana republican blues's Avatar
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    Some things never change...I guess there's something to be said for tradition.

    Personally, I generally go with EWL or similar synthetic lubricant...but have been known to use a sparing amount of synthetic grease on rare occasions.

    There's nothing civil about this war.

    Read: Harrison Bergeron

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Archer1440 View Post
    Sees all the posts condemning the use of grease.

    Looks inside my P30’s, USP’s and VP9’s, as well as P320’s, P365’s, P226’s and P229’s...as well as all my Geissele trigger assemblies...

    ...All of which came with grease in specific areas and oil in other areas, directly from the factory.

    In all seriousness, “grease what slides” and “oil what rotates” has been 100% functional for me over the past 30 years in temperatures between -20 and +120 and I see no reason to second guess the engineers in Oberndorf. I use the SLIP2000 EWL grease on sears, locking blocks and rails, and the SLIP liquid on other areas. Back in the 90’s I used the white TW25B grease on custom 1911’s as recommended by the manufacturers, and Lucas grease and oil on some items (back when SIG included samples with pistols).

    Even Glocks came with an anti-seize copper grease on the rail tabs for years. Maybe they still do.

    I have yet to have any kind of lubrication related malfunction- ever. And I use an appropriate grease on what slides and oil on what rotates.

    Carry on. I’ll throw a bag of popcorn into the microwave and come back later.
    If it works for you, I'm not going to lose sleep over it and I doubt that anyone else here is either. There's no need to declare drama where there isn't any.
    #RESIST

  7. #37
    "I don't care if you use oil, grease, or Vagisil, just keep the damn thing lubed."-LAV 2011

    Only lube I had problems with was Frog lube. I didn't follow the 798 step application process and locked it up the bolt overnight.

    I've been using the Slip2000 EWL30 that LL linked to for a while and it works well with my lube, shoot and forget it protocol.

  8. #38
    Member orionz06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Casual Friday View Post
    Only lube I had problems with was Frog lube. I didn't follow the 798 step application process and locked it up the bolt overnight.

    Their "process" was bullshit though and wouldn't have changed a thing.
    Think for yourself. Question authority.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Casual Friday View Post
    "I don't care if you use oil, grease, or Vagisil, just keep the damn thing lubed."-LAV 2011
    First time I heard that quote was from Pat Rogers in 2002. He may or may not have been first with it, but it sure left an impression at the time.

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Archer1440 View Post
    First time I heard that quote was from Pat Rogers in 2002. He may or may not have been first with it, but it sure left an impression at the time.
    I'm pretty sure that Pat was first with the Vagisil thing at classes.
    #RESIST

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