Don’t get me started on M&Ps... I don’t find most Glock triggers to be mushy, as long as you press through the wall fairly quickly.
Don’t get me started on M&Ps... I don’t find most Glock triggers to be mushy, as long as you press through the wall fairly quickly.
Last edited by Clusterfrack; 03-02-2019 at 08:10 PM.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
I find Glock triggers are best if you simply run them without thinking too much about them. Just prep and press as efficiently as you can and just manage the sights. As soon as you start trying to dissect how a Glock trigger feels you stop focusing on what’s actually important.
That being said, a little polishing of the connector and trigger bar and firing pin block plunger, a minus connector, and generous amounts of dryfire and live fire and it’ll smooth right out.
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@awp_101, how about a LCP 1? That’s a cheap solution.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Had a Gen3 G34. It came with a minus connector, I swapped in a NY1 spring. Was actually kinda OK. Decided to send it down the road for other reasons, and put it back to stock before taking it to the LGS. The trigger press with the stock spring was much less what I like.
I have a couple P250s in sub calibers. They are inherently very smooth, and the small amount of smoothing there is to do to smooth them out is intuitive and mechanically very low risk. The result is outstanding. Light and super slick. The P250/320 grip frame system is awesome. Grip modules are ~$30, so you can trim/shape/stipple whatever you want and the cost of your time is greater than the cost of parts. They point just like a classic Sig for me. Big fan.
I had an SD9VE. I worked the roughness out of every part of the trigger except the striker block plunger bore in the slide. The hole was drilled rough, and there was nothing I could do to smooth it out. Maybe if you NP3ed or NiBed the slide and resurfaced that bore... Mine went down the road. There were also two severe defects with it. The recoil spring guide rod assembly disassembled itself while sitting on the bench out of the gun. My solution was to cut a G17 guide rod to length and use it as a non-captured assembly with the S&W spring. Perfectly reliable, but less convenient to strip. The other one was a striker that was bent like a banana, so it always hit the side of the firing pin opening in the slide before emerging. Guessing there was an issue with light strikes or something that led the previous owner to dump it. S&W sent new parts to replace both defective ones, but still...
Have a 96D that is sweet. Similar to the P250 in the trigger mechanism, with the same advantages, and if I go this direction with 9mm, will probably mess with a 92D at some point. The police trade in guns are pretty rough. I'd jump on a privately-owned safe queen at the right price.
I've only ever handled one Kahr. The LGS had an all-stainless model on consignment. It was so badly in need of deburring and smoothing that the slide wouldn't go into battery by itself, and the trigger felt like it was full of sand. Turned me off on the brand. Might investigate it again if I live long enough.
The third-gen S&Ws can be nice, but they aren't supported by S&W with parts anymore, so it's like buying pre-lock revolvers and knowing you'll be scrounging used parts to keep them going if necessary. Also, they aren't like modern guns where you can generally just drop in parts and have it work. They are like 1911s, where a lot of the parts require expert fitting. There are fewer and fewer people working who were trained in those procedures and have the parts and tools to do the job right. The single stacks are unique, but the new Glocks may be an effective substitute. The double-stack 3rd-gen 9mms are not as good as more modern competitors, IMO. They are cheap, and if you aren't bothered by the idea of wearing them out and not being able to find parts, they may be an OK option. Trigger smoothness on the enhanced DAO 3rd-gen S&Ws ranges from deliciously slick to not that great.
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Not another dime.
I dry-fired a Kahr once. It still seemed a little too short/light to offer a true DA feel (and peace of mind). But that was one time, quite a while ago. This forum has some mixed reviews on Kahr, but I have to say the steel models have always caught my eye. If the trigger did feel like a good, smooth, reasonably long, adequately heavy DAO... I might be into it.
I picked my first revolver (66-1; 2.5) a few months ago. Damn. Really puts the potential of a good DA in perspective.
Last edited by MattyD380; 03-03-2019 at 01:39 AM.
Yes. A NY trigger spring and this bar. Ghost Edge
https://ghostinc.com/trigger-connect...ck-connectors/
The Kahr trigger system has a shorter stroke than a DA revolver.
I had a Kahr K9, for a while, and that short stroke was annoying, in a neither-fish-nor-fowl way, as I was accustomed to my DA revolvers and 1911 pistols, and, had seriously used DA/SA, did not want to train-up with a fourth system, which I did not find intuitive.
Retar’d LE. Kinesthetic dufus.
Don’t tread on volcanos!