The Semi-Unofficial Pistol-Forum Car geek, gearhead, hot rodder, and vehicle thread

[hufnagel]

*sigh*
so I got back on the convertible top today.
pulled the leading edge off, cleared out the staples, and figured out what I did wrong at the corners.
got them PERFECT this time, but now there's 2 sections of the middle area that are wrinkled/loose. now I need to pull those staples out AGAIN, and probably re-glue those segments after I pull them tighter.

if anyone wonders why shops charge so goddamn much to install a soft top, there's a reason. I'm not saying I wouldn't do it again, but goddamn there's a MASSIVELY steep learning curve with them.

[hufnagel]

silver...
about 60 oz of CRC 05090 Brakleen (1Gal) used to clean up the disaster under it, before I got started working on it.
swapped the knuckle/hub/axle out. the hub's been changed before. the axle still has the OE Mopar sticker on it.
that helped eliminate some of the vibration.
then I swapped another wheel/tire on to that corner. more vibration eliminated.
took it for a drive and decided to swap the right rear out as well. seems like most/all of the rotationally induced vibrations from that side are gone.
tightened the power steering belt, so no more squealing and no more turning difficulties.
also noted, driver's side axle doesn't look OE. boots are all wrong, a clamp is missing on the outside boot, and said outside boot has substantial checking. also saw a glob of green grease that was oozing out from it apparently. looks like i'm doing the same to the driver's front as I did on the passenger side, at some point.

I stupidly thought "well the parking brake is out of adjustment. let me fix that." driver side was do'able; passenger, not so much.
went to test it, and now no parking brake at all. WTF?
and, now there's a cyclical dragging noise coming from the right rear.
something tells me, at least 1 of the parking brake shoes just threw its friction material.
:facepalm:

overall though, it was a net positive improvement.
hopefully I'll get that boat trailer sooner rather than later, and I can get to yanking the engine mounts out of the parts car. i know I need the front one. I suspect I need the passenger one. I hope I don't need the trans one, as that looks like a disaster to do without pulling the transmission first.

[hufnagel]

also this is what I felt like today, somewhat...



get it? cloud? cloud cars?

[WDR]

also this is what I felt like today, somewhat...



get it? cloud? cloud cars?

That's been my last year with my old Silverado. And I've already ordered new headlight wire harness/pigtails for my new truck.

Glutton for punishment or shit magnet. One can never be sure.

[0ddl0t]

How much damage do you think someone could do running over a muffler that has fallen into the road? If that someone is behind the wheel of a new $45,000 Hyundai Ioniq 5 electric crossover suv, the damage may well run over $60,000 just to replace the battery.



The flimsy skid plate was barely scratched, but the battery behind it was dented 1/2"



Hyundai corporate tried to play it off as a misquote from an independent dealer, but a second person had the same experience;




Tesla beefed up their skid plates in 2014 after some damaged batteries caught fire.

[hufnagel]

That's been my last year with my old Silverado. And I've already ordered new headlight wire harness/pigtails for my new truck.

Glutton for punishment or shit magnet. One can never be sure.

given the types of vehicles i'm drawn to (stupid cheap but in need of work), I expect all kinds of asshattery with them.

speaking of...

silver jeep...
finally remembered to bring the needed tools with me (including a 3gal pancake compressor to blow air around things and knock the debris away) and found this...



well there's your problem, lady!
got the rocker reinstalled. once I figured out how, it was easy enough.
hardest part was getting the damn valve cover off.
everything's back in, except for the one part I broke, and i'm gluing back together now. (vac line that goes to the oil fill toob.)


about 18 seconds in, everything moves as it should now. it's the rocker all the way in the back. I didn't bring any kind of mount to hold my phone better.

[hufnagel]

also... that motor has 174k miles on it.
THIS, is why I prefer higher mileage vehicles. for them to get that far in life, they have to be taken care of. there's ZERO sludge, buildup, or any discoloration. that doesn't happen if they don't care for it.

[0ddl0t]

Chrysler had a big problem with floating valve seats (especially on passenger side heads) in the 3.7, 4.7, & 5.7 engines.

[hufnagel]

Chrysler had a big problem with floating valve seats (especially on passenger side heads) in the 3.7, 4.7, & 5.7 engines.

there was a "rash" of it in the early years of the liberty. 02's specifically would drop seats. they seemed to solve it 03+, but it being aluminum heads and steel valve seats, they're not too happy with overheating. no one has a good answer to the random rocker arm getting kicked off. from what i've gathered it's not cylinder specific.
this specific one being an 06, should have a seat problem.

[hufnagel]

oh and a christmas miracle!
I SOLVED my TPMS problem!
finally found a thread on a jeep board, where they talked about... resetting the learned parameters on the CLUSTER.
which once I thought about it, makes total sense. the cluster is on the ODB2 network. I need to get out of the one wire/one function mentality of old, and start thinking about modules and devices on a network.