Excellent! The battue looks good but I think it’s blued. The Mauser is cheap. The Sauer interests me. I like how the prices are lower than $1000 on most of these.
Sorry, I’m clueless, how about the picatinny rail maker/model?
Excellent! The battue looks good but I think it’s blued. The Mauser is cheap. The Sauer interests me. I like how the prices are lower than $1000 on most of these.
Sorry, I’m clueless, how about the picatinny rail maker/model?
I’m looking to buy at least the rifle by weeks end. Depending on which rifle I get, if it’s not top of my budget, possible I get rifle, rail, rings and scope.
If anyone sees any good deals on good bolts please link em here if you have time.
308 Vanguard would be my choice on that list. The barrel and action is built by Howa. Not super expensive but high quality. I built a precision rifle using a Howa 1500 and I have no complaints. It can shoot 1 MOA.
The .308 ammo is probably going to be a lot cheaper than 6.5 or even 30-06. You can see that on Ammoseek. Just about anyone who sells ammo will have .308. if any CF rifle ammo is available.
https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-...ifle/p/1269623
Last edited by Borderland; 02-27-2021 at 04:49 PM.
In the P-F basket of deplorables.
“The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
"Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's
I hear so much good about them and loved the feel of the high country. I’m wondering if the high country, First lite etc are priced over the vanguard line because of the signature model status.
Great post indeed. I agree on nearly all counts.
My daughter's 6.5 Creedmoor is a Howa and that thing is a copper mine. As is every Savage my wife and I have ever owned, eight in total. The Howa is a good shooter, but feels cheap in fit and finish. My Savages were all shooters too. I would personally spend more and skip the Howa based on my singular experience. I would spend the same and skip the Savage based on multiple experiences. You can, however, have the barrel lapped if you end up with a copper mine.
I own and have owned quite a few M700's and have only had one bad one. It was an M700 LVSF in .22-250. Two M77's before the Hawkeye days but post tang safety. Both great. 3 M70's, 2 bad (Super Shadows), and one good. As much as I wanted to like a T3 Lite in .270 Win, I couldn't like shooting it and sold it off.
Always wanted a Sako, but never had one.
Just my opinion.
Checked 2 shops. Any others are really far. One shop has a Steyr scout and a bull bbl Howa which was too heavy. He has some savages I’m not into.
The other one had Christiansen, weatherby in 300 Weatherby, bull bbl tikka 308, 2 boat anchor Bergara, a $1500 m70 in camo and the JP Sauer. So far my favorite 3 were the weatherby if it were in a better cal, the Sauer and the Steyr. The tikka felt fantastic but it had a bull bbl.
I use Talley lightweights on my hunting rifles. Keeps the scope lower than pic rail mounts and I have yet to have a scope move in them. I have also not had a set where they were not aligned when bolted on and have not had to line ream or lap them. (which Talley does not recommend anyways)
I will post a pic here in a bit.
A .308 Howa recently sold after about five months on consignment at the LGS. Was unfired, in a Vanguard S2 stock, with two boxes of Fed blue box soft point ammo for $575 plus tax. That would work pretty darned well for what you're describing. The bolt stop screw is the only real wart on them, and it can be fixed by replacing the screw with a shoulder bushing and a real grade 12.9 socket head cap screw. I like Howas, but my last one (.223) is for sale as I thin the safe.
I'm keeping the Tikkas. They are lighter, have better triggers, reputation for even better accuracy, I like the factory stocks better, I like the detachable mags, plus a few other reasons. The T3x stocks have interchangeable grips that are pretty inexpensive. You might really like the more vertical "pistol grip." I wish the cheek pieces were less expensive.
This is my preferred ring setup: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....l=1#post627816 It doesn't allow for setting up large vertical offsets for super long range, but for the range you're talking about, you don't need that. It's as beefy and secure as anything. A ring that requires throwing away any work done to level the scope and get everything all dialed in in order to separate the optic from the rifle is a non-starter for me. That means anything where the rings are held to the receiver by screws that can't be accessed without removing the optic from the ring clamps is a no-go. Detachable with reliable return to zero is a must-have. I like connecting directly to a dovetail milled into the receiver, rather than clamping to something that's held on with little screws. It also allows the scope to be mounted very low.
I view the one-size action length on Tikkas as a feature, not a bug. The short actions are still lighter than most other rifles, especially in the price range. The bolt stops can be trimmed and the spacer at the back of the magazines can be any thickness you want it to be, so they are the perfect solution for in-between calibers like 6mm Rem AI, .257-6.5 AI or .284 Winchester, where the case is a bit longer than a .308 case and when loaded with long bullets, they don't fit in standard short-action mags well. I haven't built any of those yet, but if I ever decide I've shot out one of my Tikkas, I'll get a pre-fit barrel in one of those calibers. Even in a standard cartridge like the 6.5 "Manbun," it buys you a little more space for the longest bullets if you want to play that way.
I'm not in the market for any more bolt guns, but I can't really sell myself on anything but a Tikka for all-around use.
^^^This.
gun.deals is a good web site.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 02-27-2021 at 05:15 PM.
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Not another dime.