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Thread: The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

  1. #1771
    Site Supporter Trooper224's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    After installing some new parts, I experienced very stiff operation of Ambi Thumb safety on my Springfield Armory Garrison/.45. that I think I got resolved with some online help.


    I bought my 1911 mostly as a range gun, but also to learn how they work. Recently, I purchased a Wilson Combat Bullet Proof Deluxe Sear, A-2 (Item #314) and Ultralight Skeletonized Hammer (Item #337B ), as a trigger group upgrade to the factory SA MIM parts. It helped that the parts were on sale at 25% off (I got both parts for $64 plus shipping), and I have had good luck with previous WC orders. Previous to this, my local smith (Brandon Bunker) had installed my WC BP Ambi safety and FO sight. While I am for sure not a gunsmith, this time I decided to try and have a go at fitting the sear and hammer myself, to save some money and as a skill development exercise for me.

    While the parts went in with no issue, after installing the sear and hammer, using the Ambi Safety was quite a chore. The axle would insert, but it was very hard to get in, and very very stiff to engage and disengage, with a slight "hitch" to the upward movement. I spent a couple days thinking about why this was so. I even removed all the new parts, and reinstalled them one at a time (I got pretty good at taking it apart and putting it together). I ended up realizing the primary issue was the left hand TS piece interacting with the new sear. Although they looked very close to the original parts, there was something just slightly off going on.

    Finally after looking around for good online sources of instruction, I happened on this video by Jason Burton of Heirloom Precision, who explained the process he used to fit a Thumb Safety. The process Jason described of fitting on the axle was exactly what I was experiencing:



    I examined the sear lug of the left hand part of my thumb safety. Sure enough, I saw some uneven wear there, indicating incorrect contact with the sear, and the cause of the stiff operation, as per the video. I placed the part in my block, and used my Grobet USA 6" #4 file to take a few few strokes (4 maybe), keeping the file parallel to the opposite side of the sear lug. I reinserted the part into the gun. It was better but still a little stiff, so I removed it and took a few more file passes (2 maybe). I polished where I filed with a little Flitz held on a finger, to give it a bit of a shine. After final assembly, it worked much better, up and down, and the hitch was almost gone.

    The rotation of the TS went from "Almost Impossible with Two Fingers" to "stiff but manageable with a thumb". I think I could have removed some more material, but I decided to leave it as is for now, and go shoot it. I am assuming the metal will wear in even more, and hopefully result in a crisp operation after a few hundred more rounds, but it is much, much better than I started.

    The location of where I filed on the part is circled in red, below. The orientation angle of the file, at left, is the angle I filed at (file rotated 90 degrees, obviously.) I filed straight across the surface, holding the part steady in my block.

    Some other things I noticed: The right hand piece of the WC TS "catches" into a small teeny hex screw. The screw head actually rests in a slot, so removal of the right hand piece means you rotate it up all the way, so the screws reaches the slot milled there. Very clever. The two pieces also join in two keyed slots, on both ends. It appears to be a very secure design. (Bear in mind this is literally the first TS on a 1911 I've ever seen close up or taken apart, so I have very little for reference.)


    Anyway, it was an interesting couple of days working this out, so I thought I would share in case it helped someone out with the same issue.

    Attachment 99485
    Fitting and tuning things like extractors and thumb safeties are tasks every 1911 owner should learn. In over 35 years I've had exactly one thumb safety just drop in and work and that surprised me. It really saves time and money learning what are basic tasks with the 1911. In the future, you might want to consult those videos first, not after the fact.
    We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......

  2. #1772
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinson View Post
    @RJ - good work. Fitting the sear engagement lug on a thumb safety is a skill every 1911 user should have along with adjusting the travel on the grip safety. If you decide to remove any more material make sure you go slow -- remove just a bit then test -- because as soon as you remove too much material the part is ruined.
    Will do. I’m finding the operation of this pistol isn’t self-evident, and I appreciate positive comments like yours. It’s not like it is easy to find good 1911 knowledge around the corner. That added to the fact I’d never so much as held one in my hand until this past June at The Pin Shoot in Michigan. There is a lot to learn. Thanks again.

  3. #1773
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    I'm sure he does not remember, but many many months ago @Chuck Whitlock remarked that a 1911 had the ability to customize the trigger reach for each user by changing out the trigger with one with a shorter reach pad. I had filed that away until a few weeks ago, when I ordered a WC "TRIGGER, ULTRALIGHT MATCH, 1911, SHORT PAD" to try out as an alternative to my stock pad in my Springfield Garrison.

    https://shopwilsoncombat.com/TRIGGER...ductinfo/190S/

    I managed to get the WC trigger fitted today. After taking the gun apart, I set everything out on my rudimentary "bench" in the garage. The new part is very shiny where the disconnector sits. The sides of the bow are as well, it looks quite a bit more "finished" than my OEM bow and shoe. And of course the pad is shorter, by quite a bit. The "arms" of the bow are also not nearly as broad, either.
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    On initial fitment, it would not go in (of course!) so I took my Grobet #4 file and worked on the top and bottom, until it barely slid in. This took maybe 30 minutes of trial and fit, file, trial and fit, etc. When it got close, I put a minute amount of Flitz on the top and bottom of the shoe, and worked it back and forth quite a while. After cleaning all that off, I oiled it and ended up being smooth, no grit, and with no perceptable play in the movement of the shoe, as it went back and forth.

    While it was apart, I checked the bow with a magazine (WC ETM), and make sure the mag did not contact the ejector when fully seated. Everything seemed to be going ok, so I inserted the overtravel screw and set it's initial distance to the same as the Springfield part. (pic taken before o/t screw inserted into new shoe.)
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    Got the gun back together with no drama. Dry Firing with a snap cap, the action is crisp, and the trigger reach is much, much more satisfactory for my hands. Thanks Chuck!
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  4. #1774
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    I'm sure he does not remember, but many many months ago @Chuck Whitlock remarked that a 1911 had the ability to customize the trigger reach for each user by changing out the trigger with one with a shorter reach pad. I had filed that away until a few weeks ago, when I ordered a WC "TRIGGER, ULTRALIGHT MATCH, 1911, SHORT PAD" to try out as an alternative to my stock pad in my Springfield Garrison.

    https://shopwilsoncombat.com/TRIGGER...ductinfo/190S/

    I managed to get the WC trigger fitted today. After taking the gun apart, I set everything out on my rudimentary "bench" in the garage. The new part is very shiny where the disconnector sits. The sides of the bow are as well, it looks quite a bit more "finished" than my OEM bow and shoe. And of course the pad is shorter, by quite a bit. The "arms" of the bow are also not nearly as broad, either.
    Name:  IMG_1953.jpg
Views: 362
Size:  57.0 KB

    On initial fitment, it would not go in (of course!) so I took my Grobet #4 file and worked on the top and bottom, until it barely slid in. This took maybe 30 minutes of trial and fit, file, trial and fit, etc. When it got close, I put a minute amount of Flitz on the top and bottom of the shoe, and worked it back and forth quite a while. After cleaning all that off, I oiled it and ended up being smooth, no grit, and with no perceptable play in the movement of the shoe, as it went back and forth.

    While it was apart, I checked the bow with a magazine (WC ETM), and make sure the mag did not contact the ejector when fully seated. Everything seemed to be going ok, so I inserted the overtravel screw and set it's initial distance to the same as the Springfield part. (pic taken before o/t screw inserted into new shoe.)
    Name:  IMG_1954.jpg
Views: 375
Size:  40.0 KB

    Got the gun back together with no drama. Dry Firing with a snap cap, the action is crisp, and the trigger reach is much, much more satisfactory for my hands. Thanks Chuck!
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Views: 355
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    Heck yeah! Short trigger FTW

    Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk

  5. #1775
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    Nice job @RJ . My favorite 1911 trigger is a medium length, but guns that ship with them are rare.

  6. #1776
    Hokey / Ancient JAD's Avatar
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    Great work, Rich. That’s literally the first thing I do when I bring a new 1911 home (the second thing is thin stocks — not sure your hands are as small as mine or what you have installed).

    now, take the overtravel screw out and throw it away. If it walks a little deeper it shuts the gun down.
    Ignore Alien Orders

  7. #1777
    Member That Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinson View Post
    Nice job @RJ . My favorite 1911 trigger is a medium length, but guns that ship with them are rare.
    Do you have any recommendations of medium length triggers? Those seem difficult to find.

  8. #1778
    Quote Originally Posted by That Guy View Post
    Do you have any recommendations of medium length triggers? Those seem difficult to find.
    https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-1...e-1911-trigger

  9. #1779
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    The most flexible way to change the trigger shoe shape and length is to use the Infinity parts that allow the shoe insert to be swapped without fitting a new bow. The basic trigger bow and shoe base is found at https://infinity.americommerce.com/t...gle-stack.aspx while the nine different shoe inserts (short, medium, long for both flat and curved and extra short flat) are available at https://infinity.americommerce.com/trigger-inserts.aspx . It is not the least expensive solution, but it does allow one to see how the different lengths and shapes work for the shooter.

  10. #1780
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    I still wasn't happy with the stiff operation of my Ambi safety today, so I took the gun apart (again). I found that the WC hammer pin (the one they give you, with the teeny adjustable hex screw) was set a bit too tight, leading to a fair amount of friction from the right side (dummy) lever. I adjusted the pin to a better, friction-free setting, and set it with blue loc tite. (The Allen key I used was the smallest in my SAE set, labeled "0.050"). As well, I took three more strokes off the shelf of the left side (active) lever axle with my Grobet #4 file. Inserting the safety was slightly easier, and now the TS operates with a very satisfactory snick snick motion, using with medium thumb pressure, both on and off.



    While I was doing all this, it occurred to me that being pretty new to 1911s, I really hadn't had it ingrained exactly what order the parts come off for a full frame disassembly, and also how they go back together. I mean, I got the gun apart and all, and managed to get it working again, but I never did have a good handle on the exact procedure, in terms of what comes off when.

    In my previous work life, everything revolved around checklists, and documented processes. I knew this was written down, so I looked at my references e.g. Kuhnhausen Vol 1 and started making a quick list on a sticky note with all the steps as a memory aide. Well, as I was doing this, I realized I could leverage the format of my MRDS Quick Reference Cards to hold the content, so I grabbed a blank file and typed my notes there. Once I got started, one thing led to another, and I ended up needing two cards with the stuff I ended up with. I call them A Cards and B Cards; the A is for the basics, the B for the full take down / put together.

    I am pretty sure about the order of the assembly/disassembly for the frame (B Card), but I wasn't 100% sure what to put on the A Card, besides a basic field strip. Maybe some reference information...So I went on a hunt through every post in this thread, looking for information about what might be useful. I came up with some ideas, like doing a safety check, and the 10 8 extractor test, but wasn't 100% sure what to put down.

    You guys have forgotten more about these guns than I will ever know, so what information would you like to see on a quick reference card like this? Is what I have ok? I realize it's probably not "the way", but "a way". I am just trying to be safe and repeatable. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.

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    Last edited by RJ; 01-21-2023 at 04:04 PM.

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