Am I missing something here on car payments?

[LittleLebowski]

Wait until you have to deal with the start stop feature. Takes a different battery. It needs an enhanced flooded at least.

On a regular F150? News to my ‘18 3.5.

[camel]

On a regular F150? News to my ‘18 3.5.

I was not being specific enough with the battery thing. Certain makers. Like Subaru or Toyota or Chrysler. Require different batteries depending on how the start stop system works.

[Borderland]

I am very hesitant to buy a used turbo'd vehicle unless very low miles and preferably with service records and a sworn affidavidit the previous owner was not a dumbfuck.

I'll never buy another vehicle with a turbo charger. Lesson learned and it was an expensive one. I kind a feel sorry for anyone with their first turbo. The trade offs are yuge.

[BehindBlueI's]

I'll never buy another vehicle with a turbo charger. Lesson learned and it was an expensive one. I kind a feel sorry for anyone with their first turbo. The trade offs are yuge.

I've had a turbo gas Saab and a turbo diesel F-250 before. What did you find to be yuge tradeoffs?

[mtnbkr]

I was not being specific enough with the battery thing. Certain makers. Like Subaru or Toyota or Chrysler. Require different batteries depending on how the start stop system works.

My manager's jeep wrangler has two. One is for start/stop and is hidden under the traditional battery. He learned about it when it failed and prevented it from starting at all.

Chris

[camel]

My manager's jeep wrangler has two. One is for start/stop and is hidden under the traditional battery. He learned about it when it failed and prevented it from starting at all.

Chris

Yea. Some start stop systems. Or the electrical load require two batteries like the Europeans have had. An Auxillary battery and a main. Honestly jeep puts them in a shit spot so they get heat soaked in my opinion.

[BehindBlueI's]

My manager's jeep wrangler has two. One is for start/stop and is hidden under the traditional battery. He learned about it when it failed and prevented it from starting at all.

Chris

I saw that when researching the Gladiator, and guys getting stuck in remote spots when the in-cab battery died. There was some aftermarket dual battery set-up they were using to remedy that, which also helped power a winch, etc, since it used two normal sized car batteries.

[pangloss]

"In the late 2000s I added a tab to my investment asset allocation spreadsheet where I calculated what size investment portfolio my wife and I would need to supply ~$80k per year of ~2008 purchasing power based on the 4% "safe" withdrawal rate. I assumed 3% inflation and 7% or 8% annual returns. Turns out that's a pretty big number. We basically need about $4,000,000 according to this calculation."

Just a word on where the "4% rule" comes from: it was from a study where they assumed some basket of investments (60% SP500, 40% treasury bonds or something like that). Then they took historical figures for the investment returns and for inflation and worked out what would have happened to someone who retired in, say, 1920, with $100K. In 1920 they spent $4K, then take the remaining $96K, add whatever the stock/bond returns were for 1921, then adjusted the $4k for 1921's inflation (to, say $4200), subtracted that, then went on to 1922, added that year's investment returns, ..., for 30 years. Then they ran the same calculation, but for 30 years starting in 1921, then starting in 1922, ..., up to starting 30 years ago today.

And for all those together, none of the 30 year periods had the theoretical retiree running out of money (or to put it another way, the worst 30 year period had the retiree running out of money in year 31).

The take home here is that you don't have to add in assumptions about inflation or returns - those are already baked into the rule. It says that, historically, it takes $2M to reliably supply an inflation adjusted $80K for 30 years. N.b. that actual outcomes have a lot of variation - when the worst case is running out in year 31, the median retiree will die with lots of money remaining.

There are a couple of web sites (search fro 'firecalc' and 'cfiresim') that will let you play with different lengths of retirement, different investment mixes, adding pensions, yadda, yadda. I think prospective retirees are well served spending some quality time there, not the least because many people don't realize how variable the outcomes can be based on random chance.

But don't I need to forecast inflation into my projected portfolio size at the start of retirement? I'm in my mid-40s now and don't currently have any desire to retire before my mid to late 60s. Regardless, if I have made a mistake, it appears to be a beneficial one.

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk

[rob_s]

My wife’s pilot has auto start/stop. We have replaced the battery at least three times since 2015.

I bought some gizmo that plugs in under the center consol that turns it off automatically.

I like to think of it as chaos theory a la Jurassic Park.

[whomever]

But don't I need to forecast inflation into my projected portfolio size at the start of retirement? I'm in my mid-40s now and don't currently have any desire to retire before my mid to late 60s. Regardless, if I have made a mistake, it appears to be a beneficial one.

First let me say that the PF of retirement planning/investing/etc is a site called bogleheads.org ... it's THE place to go for those topics.

Inflation is absolutely something retirees need to consider - for example, if you have a pension or annuity that isn't fully COLA'd, you need to carefully consider what happens if a late 70's/early 80's inflation bump comes along.

I'm just saying that the '4% rule' assumes you take 4% of the balance in year 1, and *increase that amount each year to match inflation*; the historic inflation is already baked in.

Here is a relevant page from the bogleheads wiki: https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Safe_withdrawal_rates