I've installed a couple dozen of them. The results vary from from amazing (that perfect break) to dangerous (striker release on reset) with no rhyme or reason for it. Scariest was one that resulted in my buddies Glock 19 dumping 13 rounds in about a second (he thought it was doubling up. Knowing this, I loaded up a mag to check. First 2 were perfect... Next thirteen just dumped! The part was immediately cut into 3 pieces).Originally Posted by AtomicToaster
Just for future reference, one approach to a gun that may be doubling is to load the mag with, say, two rounds.
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If it was predictable, I would have... Ain't my first rodeo.
My personal favorite set up through a lot of trial and error is a -/NY1 (with the coil spring removed), a polish on the internals, and the APEX striker block with a reduced power striker block spring. My striker spring is stock, as I wanted to make sure I would touch off just about anything I could stuff in the mag. In my Gen4 guns (with Gen4 trigger bar) this gives a pretty decent rolling break with a fairly forceful reset. It varies a bit more in my Gen3s, with a FDE 19 that gives a much crisper break, while another 19 and a 34 have the rolling break. I have had no reliability issues in thousands of rounds, including several training classes. I carry my G4 19 with set up daily in plain clothes, and have full confidence in the trigger set up. I do change the NY spring with the recoil spring as part of PM as I am not aware of data on how long the plastic will work reliably without the coil spring. It is a cheap part, and I do not mind the extra couple bucks.
I did try the EVO for a short time with the same NY1 set up. It gave a much mushier feel, and I also had some of the weird hitch others described when hand cycling in dry fire. After trying it in several pistols, I relegated it to the parts box for now and will stick with my factory connectors. I may try it in my 17L, as I shoot that relatively infrequently and only recreationally (for now at least).
What are the reliability concerns regarding taking out the coil spring on the NY1? What about lifespan?
To be honest, I do not know there are any. But since I did modify the existing part by removing the coil spring I figure it does not hurt to err on the safe side.
I do have a Gen2 with this same set up that I have not changed out in two years and it seems to be going strong with no degradation (though it does not have as many rounds through it and it is not a carry piece). I just figured why risk it on a pistol I carry daily.
Uh not really true. Reliable and in service. Best unobtanium connecter ever. Especially in Gen1-3. A little mushy in Gen4's
If I only shot bullseyes with a Glock I would use a polished stock trigger with a reduced power spring on the striker block.
Shooting at speed I can get away with a lot more using a polished - connector. My sniper partner has a Zev trigger that is pretty slick. I really like the flat trigger face. I wish there was a bit more pre travel though for a working trigger.
I can say that I have carried a modified trigger as a working cop and also used the press out in real life.
My sgt stopped a veh that took several blocks to pull over. I backed him up and was standing on the passenger side of the veh while the sgt questioned the guy. I can hear dude saying he is on parole, not supposed to be driving, etc. Finally, the sgt asks dude to step out.... And he lunges his entire body over to the pass side floorboard and grabs something. He was just starting to sit back up when my front sight came to rest on the back of his bean(with all the slack out of the trigger)......and in the spill of my light I caught a flash of white in my peripheral vision, the insurance card in his hand...
I can tell you that if you train for it, you absolutely can put the brakes on once you have started a trigger pull. I have read/heard hundreds of stories of cops who started a trigger press and the situation de escalated prior to the shot breaking.
Many of us heavy Glock shooters have been doing very similar trigger set ups from way back. It is just that some did the entrepreneurial thing and packaged them and sold them as "kits" for a good profit, but we all did a lot of the same mods. Nothing wrong with that, however similar results can be accomplished for little investment, common sense and some basic mechanical / technical skills. I will admit that not all of the kits are the same. Some have produced parts to their own specifications, while others use mostly stock components, some a mix. However great results can come from readily available individual parts, all stock Glock or otherwise.
I have pretty much tried most combo's imaginable and I also have set recipes for very good, reliable, Glock trigger set ups. I can do mild to wild, so to speak. Mild in a good carry set up to wild in a range or competition type pistol that can vary from roughly 1.5 - 2.0 lbs up to around 3.5 - 4.0 lbs. Now the 1.5 - 2.0lb triggers is not a simple set up for a DIYer but a trigger in the 3.5 - 5.5 lb range with a good crisp feel and little creep (grit) in the trigger is not rocket science and can be accomplished easily enough for around $30 - $45 and that is actually swapping parts. How you like your reset is a factor but that is not hard to account for. Now if you want a non-Glock trigger shoe set up, that is another cost.
For a carry weapon, all Glock components, a simple latest Gen3 trigger bar and a Glock minus connector is about all the more anyone really could want. Verify your engagement and cleaning up internals is not offensive to me if one knows what they are doing. Of course if I am wearing my Glock hat, I will say that no modifications to the pistol outside of factory Glock parts / specifications.
Surf, do you verify engagement with an armorers half plate and eyeball or do you have another method?
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