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Thread: An argument for the Sig

  1. #171
    Site Supporter Odin Bravo One's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    In the back of beyond
    This is why I pointed out that the poor 226 I broke was well into what had already been a long service life. It was well used when I got it, and I did not replace said roll pins. The previous owner had been a Sig armorer, and I am assuming he knew to do this, or it would be tough to explain how it made it so long. I was not a Sig armorer at the time. I also knew nothing of replacing roll pins. As a matter of fact, I'm not sure I knew what a roll pin was.

    Like I said, I had heard the stories, but nothing concrete, and not from "reliable" gun sources. Thanks for coming in to clarify TG.

  2. #172
    We are diminished
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Sean, your SIGs probably have so much sand in them that they cemented the breech block to the slide, eliminating the need for pins altogether.

  3. #173
    I am curious at to whether folks are using the E2, "stock" Sig grips or something else? I have intermittent slide interference issues with the E2 grips, despite doing my best to splay my dominant thumb out. I put the "stock" grips on, and the problem went away. I think the shorter reach of the E2 grips puts my dominant thumb closer to the slide stop.

  4. #174
    Licorice Bootlegger JDM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Albuquerque
    I'm using the stock grips on both my guns. I will be putting laser grips on my 228 in the next week or so however.

    Interestingly, SIGs are the only guns I've never had issues with failure to lockback. The other guns I've run seriously have all required modification to my grip (usually slight), but not these guns.
    Nobody is impressed by what you can't do. -THJ

  5. #175
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Colorado
    I will be putting laser grips on my 228 in the next week or so however.
    I'm interested in hearing your impressions, BOM. I've had the CTCs on both a past duty 228 and my current 226, and while I really like having the laser available, the grip diameter forces me to shift my grip ever so slightly more than I'm comfortable with to hit the magazine release. I may change my mind again at some stage and put em back on, but I've currently chosen to keep stock sized grips on both of my work guns.

    t

  6. #176
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Falls Church
    Quote Originally Posted by JV View Post
    It felt like it was 16+. Can you bring it next Friday? I'll bring my trigger pull gauge.
    JV I think the sight are PT night sights.

  7. #177
    A couple of links for your review.

    Gray Guns: Guide to SIG Sauer Pistol Inspection.

    Gray Guns: Lubrication of the SIG Sauer pistol rails

    (Having cut my gun-learnin' teeth on SIGForum and trained with Bruce and his crew, I admit to being a bit of a BG fanboi. That said, I think his experience is worth sharing.)
    Last edited by ToddG; 03-10-2013 at 10:02 AM. Reason: fixed broken links

  8. #178
    We are diminished
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    The recommendations here are contrary to my experience with SIGs. While I do not doubt for a moment that following the suggested program will keep the gun running, it's not the best solution IMO.

    Grease tends to trap particulate/debris far more than oil. Putting grease on the rails means that a lot of gun shot residue from the chamber/breechface area is going to get blown into the rails and then distributed through the grease over time. The result is that the lubrication properties disappear sooner plus you've created a slightly abrasive compound that is rubbing along the rails every time the gun is fired. If you're in dusty or sandy environments, the problem is multiplied manifold.

    SLG and I frequently went thousands of rounds between cleaning our SIGs doing little more than putting a drop or two of decent oil (I use Militec) down the slide rails. Over time you'll see some finish wear on the frame rails and if you're particularly concerned you can also rub a light coating of oil onto those spots.

  9. #179
    Quote Originally Posted by ToddG View Post
    Grease tends to trap particulate/debris far more than oil. Putting grease on the rails means that a lot of gun shot residue from the chamber/breechface area is going to get blown into the rails and then distributed through the grease over time. The result is that the lubrication properties disappear sooner plus you've created a slightly abrasive compound that is rubbing along the rails every time the gun is fired. If you're in dusty or sandy environments, the problem is multiplied manifold.
    Granted I have one fifth your round count in Sigs. But I didn't find that to be the case, as long as the grease was replaced every couple of thousand rounds it kept the rails looking like new.

    While with my gun that I oiled (using Militec) in the same round count had much more significant rail wear.

  10. #180
    We are diminished
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by PPGMD View Post
    Granted I have one fifth your round count in Sigs. But I didn't find that to be the case, as long as the grease was replaced every couple of thousand rounds it kept the rails looking like new.

    While with my gun that I oiled (using Militec) in the same round count had much more significant rail wear.
    Interesting!

    The times I tried grease, the gun would malf earlier (fewer rounds before cleaning) pretty consistently.

    I admittedly never paid a lot of attention to finish wear on the rails either way.

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