Reprofiled my Gen 3 Glock 19 Ejector

[lamarbrog]

Backstory: I picked up a used Glock 19 Gen 3 with a PUS-series serial number. I had to say used, "pre-owned" may be a better term. It had been shot, but obvious not very much- original anti-seize was still present in certain areas. I started shooting it and after about 800 rounds I began noticing I was taking a lot of casings to the face. Ejection seems strong for the most part- it's just that it is strong right back between my eyes fairly regularly. To remedy the situation, I tried by polishing the sides of the extractor. This actually seemed to make the situation worse. I have taken note of some mild triangular scrapes on my brass, indicating it is hitting the ejection port. They are not big scraped, which (at least I think) supports the fact that ejection is strong, but not where it is supposed to be. The casings seem to be scraping just enough to throw them off their proper path.

Last night I finally got around to trying my hand at ejector tuning. I have no instruction on this at all- I just sort of did what seemed like the logical thing to do.

Below is the ejector as it was originally. Notice how the foremost part of the ejector is on the top-right, viewed from the shooter's perspective.


And this is what I did after 15 minutes on a whet stone. I worked on the front face, moving the foremost part over to the bottom-left. Hopefully this will change the angle of ejection and fix the problem.


Tomorrow I will try shooting it. I'll report back with results.

[JHC]

Sounds a lot like what Rogers Shooting School is reported to have done with their Gen 4 loaner guns a year or so back. I look forward to hearing the results.

[EMC]

Looks like it could stab your thumb something fierce. At least from the pictured angle.

[JHC]

Looks like it could stab your thumb something fierce. At least from the pictured angle.

lol it does look a lot like my Recon Tanto.

[lamarbrog]

Oh, it's sharp alright. I wasn't really trying to do that- originally I wanted to use the original ejector face and just hone at an angle to remove the old point. I had my angle slightly off, though, and ended up with an edge on the left side instead of a point on the bottom left. So, I had to take off a little more to get the point I wanted- it is a little sharper than anticipated, but I don't see it becoming an issue.

[lamarbrog]

I shot the pistol this afternoon.

50 rounds of Tulammo ejected almost perfectly. Very consistent and clear ejection.

50 rounds if Winchester ejected much the same, although a little more rearward. Still, not bad.

50 rounds of Tulammo had a partial failure to extract/eject. It was almost as if the extractor lost grip mid-way through the cycle. Very strange malfunction. I don't think it was a result of the modification.

50 rounds of S&B shot nearly every casing right back between my eyes. My friends laughed. I was annoyed.


I have effectively tuned my Glock to eject perfectly with garbage ammo... and to throw brass into my face with moderately hot loads. ... awesome...

Next up, 30274 ejector.

[F-Trooper05]

Oh well, worth a try.

[SecondsCount]

I am not a Glock expert by any means but have learned a thing or two by playing with 1911s. Based on that experience, my thinking is that you should play more with where the ejector strikes the back of the case rather than the shape of the tip. The shape of the ejector tip will change where the case is hit as well but I would think that giving the ejector a slight bend to the left or right would do more.

[lamarbrog]

I am not a Glock expert by any means but have learned a thing or two by playing with 1911s. Based on that experience, my thinking is that you should play more with where the ejector strikes the back of the case rather than the shape of the tip. The shape of the ejector tip will change where the case is hit as well but I would think that giving the ejector a slight bend to the left or right would do more.

That's what I was trying to do by reprofiling the tip- I wanted it to contact on the bottom-left first.

It did not occur to me to attempt to bend the ejector initially, because my experience with another Glock stamped part (slide stop) revealed it to be incredibly brittle.

While I was shooting the abomination I created my coworker who actually is a certified gunsmith and a Glock armorer (instead of just playing one on the internet) mentioned that he had tweaked a customer's Glock 336 ejector by just straightening it out. He simply removed to bend. Apparently it had worked well. He then said "Damn, that thing looks sharp!" followed by "Why did you need to take off so much material?".

So, not one to be outdone, I quickly broke down the frame again, and pulled the ejector out with my handy-dandy Leatherman. Using the multi-tool and a pair of lineman pliers I took the bend out of the ejector.

I had exhausted the supply of S&B I had with me. 50 rounds of Remington and 50 rounds of PMC showed the ejection to be good, though. I'll post an update once I try some S&B.

[lamarbrog]

I was short on time today- I managed to get about half a box of S&B and half a box of Tulammo down range.

Ejection was good. I had one piece of S&B brass skim just the top of my ear muff strap- it wasn't in my face, and that was definitely the exception rather than the rule. The Tulammo was about the same as it has been.

I still will be trying to acquire a 30274 ejector. Hopefully the extractor from LWD will arrive before too long.