Listed on Armslist locally for $285 as a nickel "Victory" model. That's not a factory length, is it? I've not contacted the guy yet, but considering asking for more info.
Listed on Armslist locally for $285 as a nickel "Victory" model. That's not a factory length, is it? I've not contacted the guy yet, but considering asking for more info.
Definitely a chopped barrel, the ejector rod would have been shortened or the barrel would be slightly longer, here you can basically see they are flush with each other. The front sight is also wrong.
My guess is it is a post-war M10, not a "Victory" model, but since the barrel has been cut the grips are probably non-original too.
That said, I've seen a few chopped up guns I wouldn't mind having. I'd check the crown. A lot of chopped up guns haven't been re-crowned after cutting or if they are re-crowned, haven't been crowned flush. If it hasn't been re-crowned or the re-crown is crooked, you'll be looking at having it re-crowned, re-barreled, or buying the tools and doing it yourself (not a really a job for a first-timer to be honest).
Aside from that, check the lock-up, and the trigger to determine if it's been futzed with internally.
The chrome-job/nickel looks post-barrel cut so you might get lucky and get one that was done properly.
ETA: No actually, I take it back. I bet it is a Pre-M10 "Victory" model. The barrel is non-factory, but the trigger guard screw is present (eliminated m10-4), the screw under the cylinder release is present, and the hammer looks like a Victory hammer.
Last edited by RevolverRob; 09-17-2017 at 06:01 PM.
Make sure it isn't one of the ones that were originally chambered in 38 S&W and has been re-chambered to 38 Special.
I would probably pass and look for a better specimen if I wanted a shooter.
I'd steer well clear. It appears to have been chopped behind the portion of the barrel where the locking bolt fits into the end of the ejector rod. You have one less point of lock up and I can't imagine that is good. Plus anyone who would do this might do no telling what else.
Last edited by Willard; 09-17-2017 at 06:29 PM.
Smith made a few Victory models with two-inch barrels, but only a few.
That barrel has definitely been cut--no Smith barrels were ever shorter than the ejector rod of the gun on which they were mounted, and I believe that all of them had some kind of lug at the end to engage and protect the ejector rod. A Victory will have "Made in USA" stamped on the right side of the frame, and there should also be a hole in the butt for a lanyard loop.
It's probably not a bad shooter for the price mentioned.
Before you buy, just make sure that it's actually a 38 Special and not a 38 S&W. The Brits got some of those...
Okie John
“The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
"Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's
It's definitely either a victory model or pre-war that's been cut and refinished. 2 inch victory models exist, but they're rare, and this isn't one. Unless it's a 1945 gun, they're not as drop safe as later smiths.
I'd probably pass. Unless you need a beater for something, you're competent to check out the work that's been done, and you think you can get it for closer to 200; then you could do worse, I guess.
I may be confused, but I think my best friend's dad had a Victory model S&W revolver when we were growing up. However, my memory of it is that it was a larger frame pistol than a Model 10. Regardless, the barrel had been cut down and it was chromed. That specific revolver was awful. At ~10 yards, the point of impact would be feet off from the point of aim. It took decades to convince his dad to sell the pistol. It was still awful when he sold it, so this was not a case of kids that just couldn't shoot. Anyway, definitely give the Armslist revolver some extra scrutiny.