The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

[SW CQB 45]

The more I dig into this SACS Nina, the more I realize they did not fit many of the parts.

The slide stop had me baffled but I think I finally figured it out and came up with a temporary solution.

The slide stop pin is .196". The slide stop pin frame holes are .198"+. My new EGW .200" slide stop pin will not slide in.

I just discovered odd gouging in the tombstone cut out and metal swagged outward. A pieced of metal broke off that gouged area.

My slide stop was originally not engaging the slide notch all the way up. It was catching the very edge which also pushed the corner of the slide outward building up an edge.

My diagnosis, the sloppy fit of the slide stop pin to the slide stop pin hole in the frame caused the slide stop to not fit flush to the frame. Look at the paint wear forward of the slide stop pin hole on the frame.

The slide stop inner lug was tight up against the inside frame rail which caused a drag.

I still dont know what caused that gouge in the tombstone cut out but last week when I started messing with it, I saw a buildup of something on the bottom of the slide stop lug (same area as the tombstone cutout gouge) and 60+ year old eyes and not wearing my 3.5+ assistance, I hit it with a pointed pick, and it went flying off. I could not tell you what it was, nor could I find it.

I filed and stoned the inner lug of the slide stop to be closed to flush with the slide rail to minimize drag with the slide stop (to aid in empty mag lock back)

dry testing all my 9 round Springer mags was a success.

After shooting season, I will send my gun off for the .200 EGW slide stop to be fitted. I dont have the tools to do that job.









Besides the slide stop issues, I shot this gun in a match this past weekend. I was that close to getting a 500 (perfect score). Accuracy with this shooter will do its part if I do mine. It was very hot (I could feel the effects of the heat), my vision was hindered by sunlight glare and when I walked up to the target after 25 rounds.... I saw this.

There were a few times I moved but hey, those movements were into the 10 ring .

[SW CQB 45]

Well, I got my MCOP back. New front sight looks good.

I meticulously removed the optic plate (pressed fit), "cleaned" up any jagged areas and focused on the screws.

the back two plate screws were high and marked up the bottom of my optic. I removed several thousands from the top to get them flush with the plate.

I fitted the screws to insure they were not bottoming out and used red loctite on the tapers of the plate screws and blue loctite on the threads and taper of the optic screws.

Impressed with the Charyn plate. Its not just a MOS flat plate. I should have taken an image of the machine cuts in the slide and underside of the Charyn plate. It's an interference fit. (in my case I tapped it back into place)

[SW CQB 45]

I sold some grips and made the decision to purchase a set of Guncrafter Industries Shredders.

I have some OG Larry Davidson Shredders Chubs which are thicker than normal. Those are Shredders.

When the GI Shredders arrived.... just a tad disappointed they are not as aggressive as the OG LD.

However, the grips are tapered, thinner in the front of the grip and while they don't feel odd, my large hands, seem to fit it better compared to traditional (sometimes I feel there is not enough space for my support hand to seat properly).

The LD Chubs just feel odd to me.

I cannot leave well enough alone and started my version of the Scoop Cut. I wish I could send them to VZ for that cut.

It still needs refining, but I can get to the mag release faster with the Scoop cut.

I also need to bevel the mainspring pin cut out. Its sharp and will probably cut skin with 230 ball recoil.

[SW CQB 45]

Christmas is June

Got my custom Warbbird fitted for the larger SRO optic. Maybe down the road.

and fixed the sharp edges on the GI grips

[CSW]

Upon purchasing/trading into my 2015 Operator, I decided to go at this one with a no nonsense approach.

It came to me somewhat started, with the internals all changed to Wilson components. I ordered a new recoil spring, chrome silicon Wilson 16#, and new FP spring.
Springs, because I honestly don't know how old these are.
I ditched the wood Springfield grips for a set of thin LOK Bogies, golf ball style grips. A Nighthawk custom one piece magwell completes the grip.
I've ordered an Ed Brown safety, the pin style, but at this point it's back ordered.
It passed the 10-8 Extractor test, but just barely, so it needed a bit of tension added. It'll just about eject into a 5 gallon bucket every time at this point.

Long and the short of it at this point is that the pistol runs really well, has great accuracy, and is exactly what I was looking for in a full size.
I'm still on the fence about checkering the front strap, only because I don't want to have the frame refinished.
Anyone know if that aluma-black stuff works, because I don't want the frame cera-coated, and re-anodizing is quite expensive. I'm fine with the grip tape, as it works just fine, albeit ghetto.


Have decided to set up the carry gun, an RO elite in the same manner, except for the grips, as the golf balls do grab at clothing.

[Elwin]

Just a thought, you may consider cancelling your back ordered Brown safety and going with an EGW. That’s what I plan to use for future replacements after two Ed Browns loosened on me (not as bad as a Swenson type does but I still think the EGW with its internal sleeve, as recommended here, may be the best bet).

I would have a hard time deciding on the front strap. Checkering is better but money spent on it may be better applied elsewhere, especially since out of all the 1911s out there I think duty-oriented Springers wear tape the best.

[SW CQB 45]

I would stick with Ghetto front strap. Its cheaper, easily replaced with worn.

A+ for low buck.

I too prefer EGW or Wilson Combat for thumb safeties. I feel WC has the lead for refined controls and EGW for straight up beefy. But I personally would have to put a jewelers file to the EGW as some of the edges are sharp.

are you wanting single side or ambi on the thumb safety?

[CSW]

I would stick with Ghetto front strap. Its cheaper, easily replaced with worn.

A+ for low buck.

I too prefer EGW or Wilson Combat for thumb safeties. I feel WC has the lead for refined controls and EGW for straight up beefy. But I personally would have to put a jewelers file to the EGW as some of the edges are sharp.

are you wanting single side or ambi on the thumb safety?

Gotta go ambi for my left hand, curse.

I'll look into those, safeties, thanks fellas.

[SW CQB 45]

ambi's are pricey.

I buy them used if at a good price and if it leads to a scant safety, I figure in the cost of sending it to a micro welder to build up the lug.

I then recut/fit the lug.

I have saved several safeties and still come out ahead on the dollars.

Some years ago, it was cheap to send to a micro welder (in the 30$ range)

last time (2023) for a stainless EGW was $55, ouch. I still was ahead but ouch.

[DDTSGM]

Gotta go ambi for my left hand, curse.

I'll look into those, safeties, thanks fellas.

I love the EGW safeties. I've used stainless on a couple of pistols and shape the paddles to my liking. That's difficult to do on the blued ones w/o a refinish. You may want to look at the slim paddle option in blue.

I got turned onto the EGW safeties in a Bob Marvel class and was under the impression that the HD's paddles were intended to be shaped by the smith/end user.