''Politics is for the present, but an equation is for eternity.'' ―Albert Einstein
Disclosure per the Pistol-Forum CoC: I am the author of Quantitative Ammunition Selection.
I've taken to mixing synthetic grease with synthetic ATF to a sort of gel consistency and applying it sparingly with a q-tip lately. A tiny amount makes me feel better, although I have to admit that I don't believe I've ever had a lube related failure with any quality product. I do keep ATF in a squeeze bottle for AR bolts though.
Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem
I prefer the tumult of liberty to the quiet of servitude
-Thomas Jefferson
I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery.
I err toward a synthetic oil for handguns, or even CLP. Most commonly use Lucas, namely because it's readily available and I have a bunch around. I run my 92's fairly hard, don't clean a lot, but do lube every few weeks depending on how much I've been shooting.
The only handgun I greased with any regularity was my P32. However, a discussion on Facebook that derived from the Suited Shootist, I decided to try switching it over to oil for a while. I may not go back. That is after over a decade and a half of information from the old KTOG board and the fact the old, old timers over there said use grease.
That's just pistols. A few rifles like AK or Garand will still get grease.
We're talking about @Aray, right? Search on his posts.
I've read and listened, and am on board with the "Dirty 14" principle of keeping it fed with fresh oil to flush the lapping compound out of where you don't want it to be. Wipe it down with a rag to clean it.
I'd like to use Lubriplate FMO-350-AW, as it seems to be the closest oil equivalent of SFL-0, but I haven't found a way to buy it at a price that makes sense to me.
https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/...W,-12-OZ-SPRAY
Oddly enough, I am down with plain old Hoppes mineral oil gun lube. It comes in a nice needle dispenser bottle. It's more expensive than it should be, but not more expensive than a lot of things. Just because it was what I had handy, I used it to lube my GP100 as I went through and deburred and smoothed it, and the gun was stupendously slick when it was all together. That has continued with other revolvers and DAs.
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FWIW, IME/IMO, classic Sigs are a whole other discussion. There is a wide range of how they are fit from the factory, which includes so overly tight that they will and do eat their frames in a small number of rounds, no matter how they are lubed. Hence the wide range of reports on how much wear occurs to slide rails before they stabilize. A classic Sig that eats its rails is by no means only a result of user error. They should be inspected for fit and if necessary refit by a qualified person before ever entering service.
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Not another dime.
Ive wondered about food safe lubricants! My thoughts being, since im a chronic pistol wetter, that could translate into a lot of contact with the lubrication. Especially at application. That might not be a good thing and if this works just as well, cutting down on that exposure seems prudent.
You could give this a try—
https://www.super-lube.com/Content/I...c_Gear_Oil.pdf
''Politics is for the present, but an equation is for eternity.'' ―Albert Einstein
Disclosure per the Pistol-Forum CoC: I am the author of Quantitative Ammunition Selection.
Correct. We try to talk a little bit about maintenance in class to take advantage of his expertise in that area.
That's one of the most under-appreciated functions of good lubrication. It takes the stuff that makes guns choke and flows it away from the parts that can choke. That pumping action is highly beneficial. Grease grabs that stuff and holds on to it.I've read and listened, and am on board with the "Dirty 14" principle of keeping it fed with fresh oil to flush the lapping compound out of where you don't want it to be. Wipe it down with a rag to clean it.
3/15/2016
Exposure is about dose. How often you are in contact with it, and how nasty what you are in contact with is.
The act of firing a weapon in general exposes you to a host of nasty compounds that you literally breathe. But you are getting them in very small amounts...unless you are on an indoor range for extended periods of time. Or if you are on an indoor range 40 hours a week because it's your job. Or you are on a range for six weeks at a time because you are training for a job...etc. Then you need to have eye-wateringly expensive air handling units that can clean the accumulation of those nasty compounds out of the air.
Generally speaking, if you're not working on guns constantly because it's your job the lubrication you are using is going to be on the extremely minor end of the potential risks posed by your interactions with the gun.
If you use a lubricant with a food-grade base, just understand that microbes eat that sort of stuff over time and it will eventually get rancid. As long as you make sure it's not breaking down because bugs are eating and pooping in it, and make sure it's not burning because your firing schedule is subjecting it to heat it can't handle, it'll be fine.
Guns are generally not a high demand application for lubrication.
3/15/2016
Hmmmm, Id probably rather brave the standard lubricant vs bacteria. But I would think bacteria would have been a concern in its intended application and would have additives to guard against that?