I made some changes to my 870 SBS. I installed the Magpul SGA and got rid of the Surefire forend which was heavy as hell for the Magpul forend and Streamlight Railmount setup.
Be Aware-Stay Safe. Gunfighting Is A Thinking Man's Game. So We Might Want To Bring Thinking Back Into It.
I had wanted to use the Streamlight Protac RM M LOK Mount which allows you to remove the rail mount assembly and attach the light directly to it and the M LOK Slots. But the way the Magpul forend is made, it won't install flat in that location. I added a 3 inch piece of M LOK rail, and then disassembled the mount (There was some creative engineering involved) as I wanted the knob on the bottom rather than the top. I fastened a Magpul QD angled sling rail mount to the rail and installed the light. Everything was Blue Loctited and is holding well so far. Hope this helps.
Be Aware-Stay Safe. Gunfighting Is A Thinking Man's Game. So We Might Want To Bring Thinking Back Into It.
MDFA, this helps! Thanks!
I need to try that. I currently have the same light and forend combo with the light on the right side and a tape switch on the left. I find it kindof annoying and like the simplicity of tail cap only setups but I’m worried about the light hitting my hand in recoil.
Also the Magpul cantilever mount works with the forend.
Per this site, http://www.hunting-heritage.com/blog...best-gunmaker/ Jules Bury built guns from 1896 to 1947. It's hard to tell from that image, but I'd bet that the case and the tools are modern reproductions, correct for that style of gun but not original.
The gun itself is a sidelock. They're significantly more expensive than box lock guns, and they were often sold cased with any tools that the owner (or his valet) would need to maintain it. I can't tell from that image whether the locks are hand-detachable but a lot of them were. That's because most ammo in that era used corrosive priming if not black powder or early smokeless that didn't burn cleanly. Pierced primers were also not uncommon, so the recommended maintenance schedule for that gun probably included complete disassembly and scrubbing after every use. The gun would have been stored at the owner's country house, but it would have traveled with him for shoots on other properties, so the valet would need them to clean the gun every night after it had been used away from home.
With that in mind, the things that look like chisels are probably screwdrivers that have been fitted to the screws on the gun to keep the heads from getting burred during disassembly.
The round brass thing with the chisels is probably an oil can that goes with the brush to the left of it.
The tool at lower left in the main tool compartment is probably for removing/changing firing pin bushings or dealing with the pins inside the locks. (It could also be a spare handle for the screwdriver bits.) The tool at upper left is probably either a handle for a cleaning rod that's stored elsewhere in the case or a tool for cleaning the chambers.
The two brass pieces on either side of the upper right compartment are probably snap caps. Not sure about the round brass thing between them. Maybe an anvil or tool block for holding the lock during disassembly or reassembly while was dismounted from the gun.
Mostly guesses, but I hope this helps.
Okie John
“The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
"Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's
So I figured out how to use the Streamlight RM Mount. Disassemble the forend. Mark the location and drill two holes, I used a 17/64 bit. I elongated the holes a bit with a round file to get the bosses on the rear of the mount to fit into the holes and install the mount. Make sure you have enough clearance in the forend in relation to the magazine tube and if you have an extension. I had no issues, but measure twice and cut once applies. I used a one inch piece of rail to mount the sling QD. This method gives more room for your hand and thumb and less chance of your thumb being beaten in recoil.
Be Aware-Stay Safe. Gunfighting Is A Thinking Man's Game. So We Might Want To Bring Thinking Back Into It.
Form 1ed Mossberg Shockwave with SGA, Streamlight TL-Racker and I can’t remember who oversize safety button. Trying to keep this one simple for the house.
Ken
BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”