I like the TACSOL SBX barrels. They have a shorter barrel (I think it is 12") with a permanent cage (~4") that hold the can to meet the 16" requirement. They are kind of like an integral can, but with the ease of switching barrels.
I like the TACSOL SBX barrels. They have a shorter barrel (I think it is 12") with a permanent cage (~4") that hold the can to meet the 16" requirement. They are kind of like an integral can, but with the ease of switching barrels.
Last edited by Flamingo; 05-20-2022 at 10:54 AM.
This is the way.
The can as a separate unit is the only way to go.
You can stick it on your 10-22.
Then swap it onto your Ruger MK 12345/whatever, that is threaded.
Then swap it onto your 1911 frame with a conversion upper.
Then swap it onto your M&P AR-15 .22
Then onto whichever bolt gun that blows up your skirt.
and on and on.
People on rimfirecenrtral.com are reporting that key holing after switching to CCI Clean is indicative of a lead-fouled barrel. Not sure if it is true, but a good deep cleaning of the barrel with Kroil (penetrating oil of your choice) cannot hurt anything other than your wallet. I like to plug the muzzle, position barrel chamber up in a vise or C-clamp, pour Kroil into it, plug the chamber end, put the whole thing in a glass jar, put it in my garage as I cannot stand the smell, and wait twenty-four hours. After that, remove the plugs, drain the Kroil, swab the bore a few times with a brass brush, and patch it dry. If there was any lead, it will be gone. I once got sheets of lead complete with rifling impressions from what appeared to be a clean bore prior to using penetrating oil. I usually get more than a few pieces of lead.
How? You can’t say migrate the can to a Ruger RPR, Vudoo, Tikka T1X, or Zermatt RimX. So you’re tied to the 10/22 action. With a portable can, you can go precision rimfire one day, 5.7 the next, and plink .22 pistol the following day. I mean, if you’re really, really, really keen on the 10/22, but why not just get a threaded 10/22? Or a Ruger Charger? A portable can opens up so many possibilities, or more accurately speaking, an integrally suppressed barrel really restricts your possibilities.
#RESIST
#Moneyshot !
Actually I tagged him right in the back of his head as he was slinking down a ditch away from me. He had just crossed the road and hid. I was looking for him and saw him slipping away and put one in the back of his grape. He took a lights out nose dive right there.
These folks used to do an integrally suppressed pistol on a customer supplied Ruger that several pros I know absolutely loved. If you are determined to go that way.
It is not on their website any more, but in my experience they answer emails very, very quickly. Within an hour, most days. It was almost like a chat.
BUT I bought their Echo 6" direct thread. After a day of emailing I was assured that the 6" model would work (and be warrantied) on .22 mag and 5.7, even though I don't own either of those calibers, and never have, and have no plans.... That can now rides frequently on my SBR'd MP5 .22 clone, and my son's Glock .44, and has previously ridden on a threaded MKIII/.45. Sounds only a little louder than a staple or pellet gun.
I went to DPS/POST sponsored body armor shoot, and ran into a field rep for a competing suppressor company who admitted that the 6" Echo was quieter than their popular .22 can (my Echo was in NFA jail), but the next generation of their popular can "would be quieter than the Echo". Never tested my Echo side by side or metered with the the popular competitor, but was told by someone with a lot of experience metering cans that the comparison was likely accurate. My Echo can also be disassembled for cleaning, but hen I think their integral Ruger can could be, too, now that I think about it.
pat