I have come to a reckoning when it comes to dry practice. I've found it helpful and my students have found it helpful.
Everyone has opinions and if you don't agree with mine, I'm quite fine with that. I'm not the best shooter in the world, but I'm not bad. I'm also pretty good at helping others to become better shooters. If you require either GM ranking or 100 confirmed kills as credentials before you consider what I have to say, then move along because I possess neither.
If you aren't achieving a full firing grip during dry practice, you're screwing yourself. You know the gun isn't going to recoil, so you hold the gun like a dead fish. However, your hands interact with each other and with the gun differently when your full firing grip is achieved. It's especially tempting to shortcut your grip during dry practice with striker-fired guns because you continuously remove your support hand to reset the trigger via the slide. DON'T SHORTCUT YOUR GRIP. SET THE TENSION IN YOUR HANDS BEFORE YOU OPERATE THE TRIGGER, DON'T ALLOW IT TO HAPPEN *AS* YOU OPERATE THE TRIGGER.*
If you are staging the trigger during dry practice, you're screwing yourself. A long, slow trigger manipulation almost never increases your chance of getting a hit. In fact, what it tends to do is significantly contribute to the anticipation that leads to jerking the trigger. You all know what that looks like; for right-handed shooters it usually manifests itself as hits low left. You are better off operating the trigger straight through decisively, regardless of trigger characteristics. This short-circuits mental agony which helps mitigate jerking the trigger due to anticipation. Commit!
If you persist in using "just the tip" of your trigger finger because you were trained that way, you're screwing yourself. If you're reading this you've likely taken formal training and you've likely been told to use just the tip of your finger on the trigger. I'm telling you to use how much ever finger you need to minimize movement of the gun. This requires experimentation. You may only need just the tip of your finger. You may need to jam your whole finger in up to the second knuckle. You need to figure it out, and now is the time. You'll know when it's right, because the sights won't move. Note that this is an even more important consideration for SHO and WHO dry practice and shooting, which typically (but not always) require more trigger finger than usual.
If you are worried about trying to simulate "catching the link" (riding the reset) during dry practice, you're screwing yourself. BANG-CLICK is something I wish I could purge instantly from my students, but instead I need to rely upon 3,000 to 5,000 repetitions. Such is life. If you've been trained to "catch the link" (operate the trigger, hold it to the rear, gun cycles, sights back on target, let the trigger out to reset point, operate the trigger again) you've been taught a technique that isn't particularly helpful. You're far better off simply relaxing your trigger finger during the recoil of the gun and being ready to fire that next shot when the sights fall back down on target. So with all that said, quit trying to simulate catching the link during dry practice. It's not doing anything useful.
If you think lots of live fire means you can skip dry practice, you're screwing yourself. Dry practice allows you to look at things differently than live fire. If you have a mentality that you "shoot all the time" therefore you don't need to dry practice, you're depriving yourself of a very simple and effective methodology for improvement. Don't view dry practice as something to do only when you can't get to the range.
Operating the trigger quickly without having your sights appreciably move is a much more useful goal for practical pistol shooting than that of having your front sight remain "perfectly still". Obviously the focus of the above is narrowed down to practicing with a normal two-handed grip... SHO and WHO practice has some additional nuance and is more truly trigger control from the lack of a supporting side-to-side grip.
*Start by establishing the web of your firing hand (between the thumb and index finger) as high and tight as you can get it into the back of the gun. Utilize the bottom fingers (pinky and ring) as leverage to help make the web fit even higher and tighter. This establishes your grip front-to-back. Keep your firing hand thumb out of the way so as to fully allow your support hand onto the gun. Bring your support hand into play, knuckles on top of knuckles (pivot there like the hinge of a nutcracker) to establish a hard grip as high on the gun as you can. Thumb position isn't necessarily important as long as you get the "ball" of your support hand (between your wrist and thumb) up on the gun. This establishes your grip side-to-side. In this fashion, one builds a "box" around the pistol with the firing hand top/bottom on the grip, and the support and firing hands squeezing high near the slide.
If you find your forearms torquing inward and your pectoral muscles come into play, you're on the right track. If your support arm winds up higher relative to your firing arm, you're on the right track. If your elbows are coming together low, you're on the wrong track because you are breaking your high grip on the gun. Building your grip low on the gun is much less effective because it is further away from both the recoil vector and the reciprocating mass.