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Thread: So, I did a thing, and could use some advice re: square-butt grips

  1. #21
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Oct 2013
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    I prefer the older K factory target grips to anything other than good single action Colt or well done custom Ruger SA grips. Ive tried many times to like the magnas but just never felt as good to me as the targets.

    At one time I had a 4" 22 Combat Masterpiece and 6" K-22, the 6" would shoot several bricks of the old waxy Winchester Wildcats before getting too gunky to chamber easily, the 4" gun would get sticky in a brick or less. For myself, id have little problem with polishing the chambers out a bit to make it more user friendly. The 6" gun had zero problems with accuracy, so I dont agree that one will harm the accuracy by polishing them out enough to be easier to use when Ive seen nearly identical guns, one tighter tan the other, both shot outstandingly.

    This was kneeling at 25 yards, and about what Id expect at any given time from the 6" gun. This was my normal when younger, In the past I sold many guns that didnt shoot any better than 3-4" @ 25 yards. Shooting weed and grass stems, and other tiny things at various distances was fun, but didnt pose real challenges. Shoot a few 10Ks of rounds through it and stuff thrown in the air gets to be doable. Running rabbits, squirrels way up in the trees, no problem.

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    “Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
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  2. #22
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    Use a black sharpie on the bright spot. The grips in the picture are not the ones shipped with your gun which was born with the regular and smaller service grips. Sometimes Smith revolvers were shipped with the 3T's: target hammer, trigger, and stocks. The K-22 was a target revolver fired 5 shots at a time. Shooters often tested to see if one chamber was less accurate than the other 5. Then it was marked and not used. An 8 shot cylinder would have increased variability. No need for an 8 shot cylinder. The Hi Standard revolvers did come with 9 shot cylinders, but they were plinkers.

    With your revolver, you might identify the ammo brand and type within the brand giving best accuracy. A 7 yard group will be meaningless. The gun has the capability of putting all shots in the same hole at that range. Crud from firing will land under the extractor star and cause drag. Clean with tooth brush. Hold barrel straight up and down when ejecting empties. Don't let anybody work on it. Buy a bottle of Slip 2000, cock hammer, and place 3 drops into mechanism. Don't dry fire. Resist changing out springs. Do not disassemble. You will experience occasional misfires which will be ammo related. Don't expect to shoot it well at first. You have to practice to shoot good 50 yard groups. Double action will smooth up by shooting it single action.

  3. #23
    Site Supporter dogcaller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willie View Post
    Use a black sharpie on the bright spot. The grips in the picture are not the ones shipped with your gun which was born with the regular and smaller service grips. Sometimes Smith revolvers were shipped with the 3T's: target hammer, trigger, and stocks. The K-22 was a target revolver fired 5 shots at a time. Shooters often tested to see if one chamber was less accurate than the other 5. Then it was marked and not used. An 8 shot cylinder would have increased variability. No need for an 8 shot cylinder. The Hi Standard revolvers did come with 9 shot cylinders, but they were plinkers.

    With your revolver, you might identify the ammo brand and type within the brand giving best accuracy. A 7 yard group will be meaningless. The gun has the capability of putting all shots in the same hole at that range. Crud from firing will land under the extractor star and cause drag. Clean with tooth brush. Hold barrel straight up and down when ejecting empties. Don't let anybody work on it. Buy a bottle of Slip 2000, cock hammer, and place 3 drops into mechanism. Don't dry fire. Resist changing out springs. Do not disassemble. You will experience occasional misfires which will be ammo related. Don't expect to shoot it well at first. You have to practice to shoot good 50 yard groups. Double action will smooth up by shooting it single action.
    Thanks for the information and advice. I only shot a few cylinders during my test shoot, and all DA. I've never owned a target pistol before. My original intention was to buy a 4" which would be a good trainer for DA and a handy "knockabout" pistol--picture a model 15 in .22LR. That's not what I ended up with, but I'm not complaining. I'm hoping to find some comfortable thin(ner) stocks which will also look sharp against the beautiful deep blue. It's not going to be a knockabout pistol, but I'm going to like it.

    I read a thread about cleaning .22LR barrels, or, rather not cleaning them. What are your suggestions re: cleaning/brushing the barrel?

  4. #24
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    Aug 2013
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    One nice thing about K-frames is the abundance of grips available to choose from. As someone else on this forum once told me though, revolver grips are a very personal thing. How true. That's how so many of us end up with that drawer full of grips mentioned above; or in my case, boxes on a shelf next to the gun safe.

    Even though my hands are about average size, I do OK with the old square-butt target grips, although Roper-style grips are usually preferred. The magnas are too small for me, but a set of Ahrends combat grips work fine. So there are a lot of variables at work, and they're different for each set of hands. Once you figure out what works for you, it gets easier.

    Here's my pre-model 17 (ca 1952). Haven't had a whole lot of time to shoot it lately, and really should change that. Those are the grips that were on it at my purchase, although they're not period correct.

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  5. #25
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    Use a brush with nylon bristles occasionally. Brass bristles brushes are not necessary unless leading is hard to remove. You should never have this problem with this revolver. No reason not to have a brass brush. Push a couple patches through when you feel like it. Be careful not to ding the front of bore called the crown. Brass and stainless steel brushes are formed in such a way that the end is bare metal. Take care not to ram this end against the frame of the revolver as can happen if you get carried away.

    Many of us like to fix things that ain't broke. Don't look for defects. Shoot this fine revolver, and as I said earlier, don't let anybody give it an action job, or change out springs, or work on it. Shooting will make it more smooth.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogcaller View Post
    Thanks for the information and advice. I only shot a few cylinders during my test shoot, and all DA. I've never owned a target pistol before. My original intention was to buy a 4" which would be a good trainer for DA and a handy "knockabout" pistol--picture a model 15 in .22LR. That's not what I ended up with, but I'm not complaining. I'm hoping to find some comfortable thin(ner) stocks which will also look sharp against the beautiful deep blue. It's not going to be a knockabout pistol, but I'm going to like it.

    I read a thread about cleaning .22LR barrels, or, rather not cleaning them. What are your suggestions re: cleaning/brushing the barrel?
    There’s a reason I have a Model 15 and a Model 18: the Model 18 I showed and mentioned earlier is literally a Combat Masterpiece in .22LR. That’s why I said it’s the gun you were looking for.

  7. #27
    Revolvers Revolvers 1911s Stephanie B's Avatar
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    My Model 17 is pretty fussy about having the charge holes clean. After a box of ammo, I'm pushing the rounds in with some effort. So if I'm shooting a bit, as in a Bullseye match or the like, I take a brush or a boresnake with me and run it through the charge holes. I do the post-shoot scrubbing with a 6mm bore brush.
    Those who fail to learn history are doomed to repeat it;
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  8. #28
    Site Supporter dogcaller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duelist View Post
    There’s a reason I have a Model 15 and a Model 18: the Model 18 I showed and mentioned earlier is literally a Combat Masterpiece in .22LR. That’s why I said it’s the gun you were looking for.
    RIGHT! I couldn't imagine paying $700 for the one I did buy, much less the $1K for the 4" Combat Masterpiece, but I digress...

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by dogcaller View Post
    I read a thread about cleaning .22LR barrels, or, rather not cleaning them. What are your suggestions re: cleaning/brushing the barrel?
    I shot bullseye for a couple of years on the Oklahoma National Guard pistol team. Some of my team mates had been shooting at Camp Perry since I was in diapers. Their advice was to wipe down the exterior regularly, leave the bore alone, and clean/lube the rest of the gun just enough to make sure that it will run.


    Okie John
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogcaller View Post
    RIGHT! I couldn't imagine paying $700 for the one I did buy, much less the $1K for the 4" Combat Masterpiece, but I digress...
    It was a at least a year ago, but I didn’t pay anything like that for mine. (Even if you hate me for saying so)

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