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Thread: Being your own armorer on a 1911

  1. #1

    Being your own armorer on a 1911

    So quick question or two for those experienced and knowledgeable 1911 users.

    I have read that a quality 1911(colt for example) built right rarely breaks parts when correct maintenance and care is taken. Usually it comes to spring issues or things of that nature.



    Are the technicalities of maintaining or fitting minor parts made out to be more difficult then it really is? Basically being your own armorer that I have heard people say in case something happens or breaks?


    I am not talking about full builds from the ground up or anything.
    Is there good and reputable resources about being your own armorer?
    I know the Kuhnhausen book is often referred too. I also saw one by Patrick Sweeney about the care of 1911s.

    Just doing some research.

  2. #2
    Hoplophilic doc SAWBONES's Avatar
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    First, do your best to become intimately familiar with how the gun operates and with the interactions of all of its parts.

    You can do fitting for the two most often-broken or outworn parts (extractor, slidestop) with little trouble and the simplest hand tools, and spring replacement (recoil spring, mainspring, three-leaf sear spring) requires nothing more than knowledge sufficient to disassemble & reassemble the gun.

    Kuhnhausen's books on he 1911 are both useful.
    You might want to take a look at Kuleck's two books (1911 Owner's Guide and 1911 Assembly Guide) too.
    "Therefore, since the world has still... Much good, but much less good than ill,
    And while the sun and moon endure, Luck's a chance, but trouble's sure,
    I'd face it as a wise man would, And train for ill and not for good." -- A.E. Housman

  3. #3
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    I honestly don't recall how frequently to change recoil springs...I do it about every year...but I only shoot about 10,000 rounds a year...the firing pin spring comes with it, so that too.

    I'd just look up the part that breaks, and research how to fix it. The Kunhausen book is a good resource...as is a quality forum....just make sure the source posting info for you is a good one. Because, on the internet, nobody knows you're a dog....nobody.

    That said, it isn't super complex. A few files, some markers and a Wi-Fi connection can get you far

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  4. #4
    Member NETim's Avatar
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    I'm nobody's idea of a machinist, but I've been able to replace the thumb safety, plunger tube, trigger and sights on my rattlly S&W. Thumb safety was the trickiest by far but not a bad job. The Smith has been a pretty good gun, but many parts are undersize and a loose fit as issued. The plunger tube simply fell off because it wasn't staked properly. ��

    Lots of info on the 'net naturally.
    In a sort of ghastly simplicity we remove the organ and demand the function. We make men without chests and expect of them virtue and enterprise. We laugh at honour and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. We castrate and bid the geldings be fruitful.” ― C.S. Lewis, The Abolition of Man

  5. #5
    Hokey / Ancient JAD's Avatar
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    From my limited experience it is useful to know how detail strip, clean, and lubricate the gun. You will probably never have to mess with the extractor but if you do they are not hard to fit and test with a little guidance from Kunhausen.

    For me, because I have small hands, it was useful to learn how to change the grip escutcheons (in order to install slim grips), and I put a short Videki trigger in every gun I buy (which takes about two minutes with a stone).

    I have on some older guns had to restake the plunger tube; that's an expensive tool and I would farm the work out if I had to do it again.

    Colts often have shitty mag releases; fitting a new one is a no brainer.
    Ignore Alien Orders

  6. #6
    From my own experience, to keep a properly set up 1911 running is to keep it lubed, change the recoil and firing pin spring regularly, and know how to check and tension your extractor.

    Whenever I take a 1911 apart, I compare the lengths of the recoil and firing pin springs to new ones on hand. If the recoil spring is shorter than around 1/4" and the firing pin spring shorter than 1/8" I just replace them.

    A number of years ago I took a 1 day class from John Jardine on 1911 maintenance and troubleshooting. I definitely got a lot out of it. My friend wrote a review of the class here.

    He was pretty adamant about 18.5 lb recoil springs, I was using 16 lb at the time.

    The only parts I've broken on a 1911 were on a Wilson; a firing pin stop and their 2 piece cast speed chute. They were great to work with.

  7. #7
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    Interesting. Any reason Jardine recommends the 18.5 lb spring over the 16? Reduction of wear?

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  8. #8
    Member That Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45dotACP View Post
    I honestly don't recall how frequently to change recoil springs...I do it about every year...but I only shoot about 10,000 rounds a year...the firing pin spring comes with it, so that too.
    Wow. I try to put a fresh recoil spring in the gun after 2500 rounds. Sometimes even a little earlier, especially with my .45 lightweight Commander. You've had no issues with using the same spring for so long?


    I'm not very handy with mechanical things but I've managed to keep several 1911's running. My girlfriends 9mm, a used ipsc gun she bought for a few hundred, has required the most maintenance (imagine that ). I've retensioned the extractor, replaced the slide stop, had to modify a new barrel link when that broke so it fit onto the barrel (which says something about the gun )... With other guns I've had to restake the plunger, re-activate a grip safety, once upon a time I even managed to fit a thumb safety into one gun.

    I've come to the conclusion that as long as the gun is a hobby gun, being a redneck with a dremel ain't that hard. Making sure things are absolutely, 100% correct however, that's takes an entirely different level of skill.

    I guess my point is that it depends on what the gun is for and what you want to do to it. Changing springs is no more complicated than taking the gun apart and putting it back together again. Replacing an extractor is no big deal. Replacing an extractor and then trusting your life on it working right 100% of the time, however...



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  9. #9
    I haven't really had any issues keeping 1911s running; the best thing I did was take a class from 10-8 Performance on 1911 maintenance. So I can detail strip the gun, tension the extractor, change and do minor fitting to parts. Of that, the only real thing I've ever had to do was change recoil springs and firing pin springs. I just change them out at the same time whenever I do the change, usually about 3,000-5,000 rounds.

  10. #10
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    If you are at all mechanically inclined it is not a big deal. I used to do custom 1911's for a living. Barrel fitting, installing a beavertail grip safety and and a few other things are advanced enough that you will probably want to take a class or at least have someone experienced looking over your shoulder. The rest of it, extractor tensioning, thumb safety fitting and things like that are something that a few evenings with the Kuhnhausen books and your 1911 will get you up to speed.

    Also, before you try fitting a thumb safety or other things like that start with some cheap gunshow special parts to practice with. Once you have successfully done a few, then you can try with your expensive Wilson safety. Practice parts were a big part of my learning.

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