Does anyone know if there is a Lube Diagram for the P30 floating around out there? I have always lubed it similar to what I do with my P220, but I'm curious if I might be missing a crucial lube point or maybe even over lubing.
Does anyone know if there is a Lube Diagram for the P30 floating around out there? I have always lubed it similar to what I do with my P220, but I'm curious if I might be missing a crucial lube point or maybe even over lubing.
If it's shiny, lube it.Originally Posted by John Ralston
C'mon, folks, let's keep this PG13.
Ignore Alien Orders
Really........because when I called about it they couldn't give a flying crap, and maybe we "were doing something wrong"...........Glock did not invent the "you must be limp wristing excuse".
Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard. Snarky and easily butt hurt. Favorite animal is the Cape Buffalo....likely indicative of a personality disorder.
"If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".
"Quickly," like "soon," means something different in the firearms industry than the LE community.
Trust me, remembering it hurts worse. Former P22 owners of the world unite!
From the manual:
Source: http://www.hk-usa.com/-images/shared...ual_060809.pdfLUBRICATION
Metal surfaces of the P Series pistol are treated with HK’s special corrosion and wear-resistant finish. This surface treatment does not completely reduce the friction between moving parts and it is recommended that a lubricant be applied to the pistol to ensure proper functioning. Any type of high-quality, medium-weight lubricant (oil) specifically designed for use on firearms will work well on the P Series. Do not use lubricants that boast of their ability to penetrate metal as these substances may deaden primers.
Where and How Much -
No Lube - Surface is dry and not slippery to the touch.
• All plastic and rubber components
Light Lube - A finger run across the surface yields little or no lube.
• Bore, chamber and exterior of barrel
• All metal parts
• All internal parts in slide and frame
• Magazine spring
• Recoil spring assembly
• Sights
• P Series pistol metal magazine housing, where applicable
Medium Lube - A finger run across the surface yields some lube, but lube does not run
down surface when it is held in a vertical position.
• Barrel locking block
• Slide rails and grooves
• All operating controls
• Locking insert and guiding part in frame
• Extractor
Heavy Lube - Lubrication runs down the surface when it is held in a vertical position.
No heavy lube is required on the HK P Series pistol.
Re-apply lubricant periodically during firing as it burns off from the heat. Apply lubricant using a clean shaving brush, cotton swabs, patches or rag. A spray bottle of lubricant also works well when using compressed air to circulate the lubricant into all parts and to remove the excess from the pistol.
It's in Metric time. As a longtime HK guy, I know metric time well.
It's actually sort of the same as L/E time.......cops doing things quickly has a lot of variables. My dad summed it up best...."you guys driving a 100 mph like madmen to go eat, and drive the speed limit and obey all the traffic laws going to family disputes." Easy......we only have 30 minutes to eat....
Just a Hairy Special Snowflake supply clerk with no field experience, shooting an Asymetric carbine as a Try Hard
"If I had a grandpa, he would look like Delbert Belton".
I bet you didn't tell him the REAL reason for the sedate cruise to the family dispute... if you time it right, you only have to deal with the winner.
EMS gets to handle the loser...
Regarding Sig's "response time", they actually busted ass to get those P220s turned around. But you would think so, in that it was a major agency order for a new issue piece.
The only other major problem I recall with those guns was with the 8 round magazines. Loading from slide lock was no drama; a "tac reload" with the slide forward, or replacing a magazine in the holster, was a big deal, as you had to really jam that puppy into place to get it to fully seat/lock. I stayed with the seven rounders, myself.
We still have a few older hands who elected to keep their P220 (they had to buy it from the vendor who was facilitating the change-over) and continue carrying it in lieu of the new issue G22.
.
Being a former Mechanical Engineer...I already knew that part. My question was more about the Sear/Disconnector area in the frame - you can't really see any shiny spots when all the parts are sandwiched together and shoved down into the frame. I put a drop or two of oil in that area for corrosion resistance and lube - although I often wonder if I am attracting more dust bunnies by doing so and negating the benefits of the lube.
Funny!
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