I doubt it is the hammer spring. LTT recommends the 13# spring as the lightest due to funk build up over time in the fp channel causing primer light strikes. What ammo? I once had a case of Winchester WB 115g ball that choked randomly in every 9mm pistol I ran it through. That was my last purchase of Winchester WB.Originally Posted by thatguybryan
I need to shoot my m9a1 compact more.
This is sort of what I was thinking too.
Maybe I’ll change the hammer spring just for general reliability purposes and see what happens. I cleaned the gun when I bought it, and even though I bought it used, it looked brand new. I’ll clean the extractor just in case.
Edit: sorry, it was blazer brass. I shot a bunch of federal AE and blazer (all brass) and some Fed HST. 8 different mags (all factory except the np3 Mecgars from LTT) and no other ammo caused an issue, and both failures occurred with the same LTT magazine. I shot 3-4 additional mags through the magazine but no further issues with the mag or the gun itself. I am thinking it may have just been some light loads but I am not 100% sure.
Yes, yes you should. I am enjoying your revolver content on TOS though.
Last edited by thatguybryan; 08-17-2022 at 08:00 PM.
My M9A1 has been running a 12# hammer spring for maybe 4 years. Until about a year ago when I started running an 11# so I doubt the hammer spring is the problem. Maybe 3yrs ago I started having a similar malfunction. The extractor did not always pull the case out of the barrel. An extra power extractor spring from Wilson fixed that problem 100%. Replacing the spring requires removing the extractor so while it is out spend a lot of time cleaning the channel it rides in and cleaning around the firing pin and it's spring. If it's extra gunky you may want to pull the firing pin to get all the gunk out. I clean the FP spring as well as possible w/ my normal cleaner and a Q-tip. A can of brake clean w/ the red nozzle is great for a final blow the gunk out of the breech end. I also polish the top and bottom surface of the extractor (as you look at it in the slide) figuring that may help it move better even if it gets gunked up some. If you remove the FP, polish it also. I have no idea if it actually helps but I figure that running weak hammer springs I try to do anything I can think of that might allow the FP to move a little more easily. I shoot idpa matches w/ the M9A1 w/ 11# spring so I pull the extractor every 4-5 weeks to clean it and the FP.
2 questions here— 1) should I replace the extractor at the same time? And 2) do I need to re-stake the extractor pin after removal?
Not @CraigS ,
But I did both when doing maintenance/cleaning on my match B92 at 15,000 rds.
The extractor wasn’t visibility worn or damaged, but it was cheap insurance to replace the extractor and extractor spring.
The few stovepipes that I’d been having pretty much went away afterwards.
Just my opinion, but doing this level of disassembly and cleaning every 4-6 weeks seems a bit excessive.
That’s probably the interval that I do a basic field strip and cleaning for my match gun (500-700 rds).
It probably is a bit excessive but each time I think, ah I'll just skip it for now, I remember the couple of stages I blew when it messed up. I have not been re-staking the pin. I figure there are only so many times you can hit that tiny area so I put a drop of clear model glue on it instead. And I have an extractor, spring, and pin in my bag which, fortunately, I haven't needed yet. I did replace the extractor as part of that repair but I don't think it was needed. My first attempt was a new extractor + new (stock) spring which didn't fix it. When I installed the stronger spring which was the fix, I just re-used the new extractor.
A little frustrating to have to do this on what is a $1,000+ factory custom sort of a gun. I don’t really feel comfortable not staking the extractor pin in after I replace the extractor and spring, but if I stake it, it’s probably going to damage the finish on the gun (which I’m not usually worried about, but this is a nicer gun than most of my others). I’ll be honest, I’m tempted to just run it as is to see if those 2 FTEs were flukes, or just sell and disclose the previous FTEs.
My other B92s/M9a1/a3/vertecs all worked fine. Alternatively, maybe I could just send this to LTT to have them install the extractor and properly stake it for me.
I sent this 92x Centurion to LTT for the full monty. Optics cut, trigger job, flush cut barrel and the gratuitous LTT logo.
I went with the 13# HS, and the flush hammer.
I still have the ultra smooth DA, and incredible, predictable SA. The brass constantly goes to my 3:30 upon ejection.
I'll bet that the damn thing would run just as well with a 12#.
"... And miles to go before I sleep".
1. Replacing the extractor generally won't hurt and will sometimes help. It's a relatively cheap fix. But more importantly, thoroughly clean the entire extractor area. Sometimes the gunk that builds up can keep the extractor from operating properly.
2. Restaking the pin depends on how tight the fit is. On a lot of Berettas you never need to restake the pin because it is so tight already. If the pin begins backing out when you shoot it, you will need to restake it or see if you can find a slightly wider extractor pin. My experience is that there are noticeable difference in the size of Beretta 92 extractor pins.
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