An argument for the Sig

[JAD]

This is speaking to me. I want to run a 'modern' pistol as a discipline thing, but don't like plastic; I have been geeking out over the relentless stream of M11 ads that have been in the gun rags recently; I want to evaluate the 1911-trigger-as-crutch thing; and I've been employing AIWB a bit more lately and was not reconciling that with GLOCKs very well.

So what's the school solution as far as variants go? I would think I'd prefer a 229 versus 226 since this would be an all the time pistol; the SAS seems to have the right components.

How hard is it to gunbroker a German 228?

Are any of the currently sold SIGs made in Germany?

How much would I hate myself if I got a .357 SIG?

[John Ralston]

I like the grip on the P226 better than the P229 (the P229 has a funky bulge up near the slide stop). I like the E2 grip on the P229 much better than the standard though.

[GJM]

You've been working the LEM for a while, so I suspect you will find DA/SA isn't that hard to wrap your head around. Honestly, I think the first DA shot is easier to master than the LEM. The Sig DA is heavier than the LEM, but it is a consistent, smooth level of resistance all the way through (or should be). I was constantly having to fight anticipation with the two-stage LEM. It was a pure mental game as the trigger pull shouldn't be any different between a DA trigger and the LEM, but the change in resistance in the LEM is challenging to ignore.

Interesting, I feel that it is easier to be very aggressive with the Sig DA than the LEM, since the Sig DA trigger is linear. By comparison, working the the P30 I need to do the initial take-up and then roll through the rest of the press.

[GJM]

This is speaking to me. I want to run a 'modern' pistol as a discipline thing, but don't like plastic; I have been geeking out over the relentless stream of M11 ads that have been in the gun rags recently; I want to evaluate the 1911-trigger-as-crutch thing; and I've been employing AIWB a bit more lately and was not reconciling that with GLOCKs very well.

So what's the school solution as far as variants go? I would think I'd prefer a 229 versus 226 since this would be an all the time pistol; the SAS seems to have the right components.

How hard is it to gunbroker a German 228?

Are any of the currently sold SIGs made in Germany?

How much would I hate myself if I got a .357 SIG?

My preference is DA/SA with the SRT trigger. I don't like the short trigger (that is the trigger and not the SRT which is about reset) as it pinches my trigger finger between the trigger and frame.

Sean M, and JV make a strong case for the 226. I am wearing my 226 now in a JM Custom appendix, and it is concealable under just a t shirt. The 229 is a smidge shorter in the grip, but hardly enough to matter under most garments. I also have a 229 SAS, and think that is the way to go in a 229, as it is very smooth. On my 226, I ended up having the edges rounded on the beaver tail area (not the Elite or whatever Sig causes their 1911 beaver tail thing, just the classic model), as my high grip was irritating the web of my hand. No such problem with the SAS.

I have a German 228, and purists seem to like them. You will end up sending it in for an E2 grip and SRT anyways. TLG and others point out that the modern pistols with stainless slides, coated with Nitron, hold up better to high round counts. The 228 is +/- 3 ounces lighter than the 229, all based on the slide. The modern stainless slide is obviously more rust resistant. If you want a 228, go on GunBroker and get a CPO (certified pre-owned one).

I don't get hung up on made in Germany versus US, especially with the 9mm models.

I think a .357 Sig 226/229 would be a terrible hard use shooting gun, as in hard on you, the pistol, and anyone shooting near you. However, I wouldn't hesitate to start with the 9mm model, but for $350 buy a caliber exchange kit in .40 or .357 Sig to plop on your lower for special purposes. I got .40 because I want to run .40 hard cast loads for Alaska, which I think will out penetrate FMJ penetrator loads from a 10mm. (My 229 .40 seems to feed the hard cast and shoot POI with HST/Ranger.)

[John Ralston]

Interesting, I feel that it is easier to be very aggressive with the Sig DA than the LEM, since the Sig DA trigger is linear. By comparison, working the the P30 I need to do the initial take-up and then roll through the rest of the press.

Do you have the TLG Version? I never even notice the stacking - by the time I get to it I am already through it.

[GJM]

Do you have the TLG Version? I never even notice the stacking - by the time I get to it I am already through it.

I do, multiple copies. On each of them, there is take up, then a change in the trigger feel before the trigger breaks. On my Sig pistols, the DA trigger is linear from start to finish.

[CCT125US]

Several students in recent classes have shot very well with my V3. Some were used to a striker fired gun, the VERY first DA shot led to a flinch since the gun did not go off when expected. (Yep, not all guns break at 5lbs) Sometimes the look of "I think your gun is broken" is humorous. However, the next DA shot was on target since it has no stacking or indication it is about to break. As long as they had a proper sight picture, and maintained it through the pull, they shot very well. One guy was decocking after each shot and working the DA, and made the comment that the feedback from seeing the hammer cocking let him know he was working the trigger. He had on heavy gloves and said his fingers were sort of numb from the cold. I thought of you GJM, and how shooting in Alaska presented its own set of challenges. BTW, it was really cold at 29 degrees

[John Ralston]

I do, multiple copies. On each of them, there is take up, then a change in the trigger feel before the trigger breaks. On my Sig pistols, the DA trigger is linear from start to finish.

Mine has take up too, but it doesn't really change until right at the end, and when I am shooting at speed it seems to just roll right through to the break. It definitely is different than my P220 and P229, which as you say are the same from start to finish, but I do like the P30's consistent trigger pull on every shot.

[Tamara]

I want to run a 'modern' pistol as a discipline thing, but don't like plastic...

Every time somebody talks about how they don't "like" plastic guns or they don't like a certain gun because it's "ugly", I want to go all Gurney Hallek: "'Like'? What has 'like' to do with it? ... 'Like's' a thing for cattle or making love or playing the baliset. It's not for fighting."

Okay, that's out of my system. We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.

[JAD]

Every time somebody talks about how they don't "like" plastic guns...

I recognize the logic, but since most handguns provide equal levels of suck, you might as well get one you enjoy. There is no 'best' handgun out of the top tier (hmm, twenty? Could we name 20 platforms of reasonable equivalency?), so it is most reasonable to get the cheapest or the one that pleases you most. Spending an extra five bills on a pistol isn't going to retard my ammo / training budget (I don't have those; my time constraints, which currently are wearing pull-ups, far outweigh my financial constraints), so I think it's entirely reasonable and defensible to choose a handgun because it looks cool. I do appreciate a dune quote, though (as long as it's from the first book).