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Thread: torque for rear irons

  1. #1
    Site Supporter piefairy's Avatar
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    torque for rear irons

    I thought I had this resolved. My sig p320 x-5 rear irons keep coming loose. I tightened them the other day, lacking a torque wrench, got them to what I thought was a solid tightness. Less than 50rnds in today it had come loose. Obviously they weren't tight enough. I have a torque screwdriver and the proper bits coming, along with some loctite blue which I am reluctant to use since I plan to replace the irons with a red dot at some point soon. Anyways, anyone know what torque setting I should install these with? Sig calls for 30 inch lbs for a Romeo 1 pro with no loctite, should I assume the same?

    Thanks
    Pie

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by piefairy View Post
    I thought I had this resolved. My sig p320 x-5 rear irons keep coming loose. I tightened them the other day, lacking a torque wrench, got them to what I thought was a solid tightness. Less than 50rnds in today it had come loose. Obviously they weren't tight enough. I have a torque screwdriver and the proper bits coming, along with some loctite blue which I am reluctant to use since I plan to replace the irons with a red dot at some point soon. Anyways, anyone know what torque setting I should install these with? Sig calls for 30 inch lbs for a Romeo 1 pro with no loctite, should I assume the same?

    Thanks
    Pie
    Blue Loctite is your friend.
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  3. #3
    Site Supporter piefairy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    Blue Loctite is your friend.
    It scares me. Had a bad experience with loctite once. Had to freeze the nut with dry ice to get the loctite to break free. Wasn't fun. It wasn't blue though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by piefairy View Post
    It scares me. Had a bad experience with loctite once. Had to freeze the nut with dry ice to get the loctite to break free. Wasn't fun. It wasn't blue though.

    Clean, degrease and use blue loctite. It'll break free w/o heat if needed.

  5. #5
    Looks like 20 in lb and Loctite 243 (medium/blue) threadlocker, assuming we are talking about the sight plate screws...?

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    Page 77:

    https://www.sigsauer.com/media/sigsa...WEB_FILE_1.pdf

  6. #6
    Site Supporter piefairy's Avatar
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    Thanks RJ. I'll torque it down tonight.

  7. #7

    With respect...

    Quote Originally Posted by piefairy View Post
    Thanks RJ. I'll torque it down tonight.
    ...if you don't use some form of thread locker, you are going to have it loosen again, IMO. The top of a pistol slide is a rough place for screws, etc. Impact and vibration are the norm. Thousands, if not tens of thousands of plates and optical sights have been successfully mounted with Loctite. Properly done, it works.

  8. #8
    Site Supporter piefairy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Rangemaster View Post
    ...if you don't use some form of thread locker, you are going to have it loosen again, IMO. The top of a pistol slide is a rough place for screws, etc. Impact and vibration are the norm. Thousands, if not tens of thousands of plates and optical sights have been successfully mounted with Loctite. Properly done, it works.
    I have some 242 comig in from Amazon today I'll use. Is carb cleaner good for a degreaser? Wiped off after spraying of course. not getting it on the gun, just the two screws for the sight, maybe a bit in the thread holes too. I know it can be corrosive to some parts.

  9. #9
    @piefairy, I have used alcohol wipes in the past with good results, fwiw.
    Last edited by 1Rangemaster; 10-31-2024 at 10:57 AM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Up1911Fan View Post
    Clean, degrease and use blue loctite. It'll break free w/o heat if needed.
    What RJ said above ^^^.

    If you have too much loctite heat softens it. Heat up a soldering iron and touch the tip to the screw for a minute or two. The direct heat will soften the Loctite and allow you to break it free.

    Blue, and I believe purple Loctite are intended for temporary applications that will eventually be removed, red is intended for permanent installations, but the soldering iron trick can help if you have an issue with red.

    I personally use rubbing alcohol as my primary degreaser, if not the non-chlorinated version of brake cleaner works too.

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