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Thread: Precision/Hunting First Rig

  1. #1
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    Precision/Hunting First Rig

    Went to Thunder Valley here in Ohio (targets out to a mile) with my BCM SPR and a 2.5-10 SWFA compact scope in the spring. I really enjoyed it and my set up did really well out to 500 and had some success at 600/700.

    Going again in the fall, and probably going to be a twice a year thing with some family/friends. Kept my eye on Snipers Hide classifieds and ended up snagging a Rem 700 5R in 6.5 fluted barrel that had been cut to 20" with an iota stock, tac bolt handle, Wyatts DBM, and Trigger Tech trigger. Allegedly a .35 MOA gun at 100.

    I've wanted the Nightforce SHV 4-14 F1 for a long time but I talked to Richard at CS Tactical (he was awesome, call him before buying anything) and for a little more money, he had me sold on the new Leupold Mk 4. BUT then of course, found an open box demo NF for under 1k and ended up jumping on it.

    Getting the scope mounted today and shooting it for groups at 100 and 200 tomorrow with FGMM 140 grain. The stock seems okay, definitely some flex in it so I'll see how it does and upgrade to a KRG Bravo later if needed.

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  2. #2
    I haven’t shot there for a few years, I was going once or twice a month for a while.

  3. #3
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    Got it out to the range today in fantastic weather. I was a little disppointed in my shooting but for the first trip I shouldn't have overly high expectations.

    Rifle weighs ~ 11.5 lbs according to the bathroom scale. Shot Federal Gold Metal Match 6.5 140 grain ammunition.

    Pulled one bad on my first 100 yard group that made it about 1.5 MOA. Second group was .78 MOA at 100 and then .67 MOA at 200. I think I was using too much magnification.

    Looks like they cut the barrel square with no crown so I probably need a muzzle device. Any recommendations there? Is a comp going to be super obnoxious on a 20 inch barrel? The Surefire PROCOMP looks interesting to me.

    Federal box said 4 inches of drop at 200 but I ended up having 4.5 with the shorter barrel so I've got a start on my 200 yard adjustment at least.

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  4. #4
    The word “allegedly” bothers me. True 0.35 MOA rifles are uncommon and few people sell one without a very good reason. The previous owner should be a fountain of knowledge about this rifle. I’d ask him what loads and torque values he used for the stock (probably 65 inch-pounds if it’s pillar bedded) to get 0.35 MOA groups.

    From there, I’d set the scope to the middle of the magnification range and shoot it exactly the way he had it set up. That should get you to 0.35 MOA groups.

    Have someone else shoot the rifle if that doesn’t work. If it still won't group, then clean the bore down to bare metal with Sweet’s 7.62 Solvent. Follow the instructions and go until there is no trace of blue on the patches. Also scrub the bolt (inside and out), the chamber, and the locking lug recesses. Then lubricate the bolt, including the back of the locking lugs, very lightly. Then degrease the action screws and retorque them with a known-good torque wrench. Degrease the rings, bases, and every screw in the mount system, coat them liberally with LocTite 243, then reassemble the rings and bases, torque them to the manufacturer’s specs, and let everything cure for at least 24 hours before you shoot it again.

    This gets you back to a baseline. Then you can reshoot the previous owner’s loads, loads you’ve already tried, and other loads.

    If things don’t improve, then have someone scope the bore before you spend a dime on anything else. Round count may be low, but rate of fire can cook a bore faster than you'd think. I learned this the hard way.

    If the bore looks good, then have a smith check the bedding and the crown. Touching it up can be the cheapest accuracy work you do.

    LMK if you have questions.


    Okie John
    “The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
    "Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by okie john View Post
    The word “allegedly” bothers me. True 0.35 MOA rifles are uncommon and few people sell one without a very good reason. The previous owner should be a fountain of knowledge about this rifle. I’d ask him what loads and torque values he used for the stock (probably 65 inch-pounds if it’s pillar bedded) to get 0.35 MOA groups.

    ...

    Okie John
    Thank you for all this info! I'm going to work through one thing at a time. I used the word allegedly because I had my doubts a factory rifle was ever capable of .35 MOA and that was not really an expectation of mine when I bought the gun.

    I'm going to shoot it again tomorrow and I do think I'll be better, if I'm closer to .5 MOA with factory ammo I'll be happy. Dies are on their way and I'll handload it too and see if it gets any better, but all this info for next steps is great to have for me and others.

    Overall the rifle balances really well, I liked the scope, the DBM fed reliably, etc. I'm less than $2500 into the whole setup $1100 rifle, $1k scope, $300 for rings and bipod.

    Partially my annoyance is I shoot my SPR this well with a mil spec trigger but I'm MUCH more familiar with that gun. I was under the impression bolt guns were more like a cheat code but recoil and familiarity definitely make a difference

    I'm learning and enjoying it.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by rjohnson4405 View Post
    Thank you for all this info! I'm going to work through one thing at a time. I used the word allegedly because I had my doubts a factory rifle was ever capable of .35 MOA and that was not really an expectation of mine when I bought the gun.

    I'm going to shoot it again tomorrow and I do think I'll be better, if I'm closer to .5 MOA with factory ammo I'll be happy. Dies are on their way and I'll handload it too and see if it gets any better, but all this info for next steps is great to have for me and others.

    Overall the rifle balances really well, I liked the scope, the DBM fed reliably, etc. I'm less than $2500 into the whole setup $1100 rifle, $1k scope, $300 for rings and bipod.

    Partially my annoyance is I shoot my SPR this well with a mil spec trigger but I'm MUCH more familiar with that gun. I was under the impression bolt guns were more like a cheat code but recoil and familiarity definitely make a difference

    I'm learning and enjoying it.
    I had a Tikka T3 in 308 that would occasionally put three shots touching at 200 yards. On those days, it was a sub-0.3 MOA rifle. If you look at longer-run averages, it was more like a 1.5 MOA rifle.

    I hear good things about Hornady ELD match loads in 6.5 Creedmoor.

    Bolt guns tend to be more accurate than gas guns, mostly because the armies of the world have put vast amounts of time and treasure into learning how to make them run over the last 140 years. That said, you do have to learn the ancient ways. @Lost River and others know a lot more about that than I do.


    Okie John
    “The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
    "Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's

  7. #7
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    I'd take the Nightforce over the Leupold. Maybe that gun will print some 0.35" groups but it isn't automatic. Unless you are naturally talented, that kind of precsion comes from a lot of time at the bench. If you can get sub MOA groups with factory ammo, then you are doing well.

    Start off by getting the bore nice and clean. Carbon and copper fouling affect accuracy. I like foaming Wipe Out, and follow the directions for good results. After the bore is clean, shoot a 3 or 5 shot group to "season" the barrel before shooting for accuracy.

    Just like pistol, you have to squeeze the trigger without moving the sight picture. I see that you are using a Magpul bipod which are not the stiffest platform. Are you using a rear bag with it? I use something like the Crosstac squeeze bag to provide a good foundation for the rear.

    Here is a good video on how to get a good position
    https://youtu.be/lpzLbnXVx1Q?si=0-QSczQOCVLSWnQN

    A 22 LR rifle that can be a great training aid. It costs far less to shoot and there is little recoil. You can even borrow the scope and bipod off your precision rig to use for practice.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

  8. #8
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    Got out again today, made some slight adjustments and felt like my position was better and my attachment to the gun/scope were better.

    And shot .7 MOA at 100 and pulled one at 200 to make a 1 MOA group. So, pretty much the same.

    Okie John - I had heard the same about ELD match so I ordered some 130 grain to try out.

    SecondsCount - I've heard from you and John so I'm going to get a real clean bore before I try the hand loads out too. I'm watching that position video now, thank you.

    I'll continue to work at it a piece at a time, I think most of it is me. Need to get it locked down for trip to Thunder Valley in early Nov but I've got some time.

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  9. #9
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    Looks good. I think you could shrink those groups down quite a bit if you can eliminate the vertical stringing.

    Here is a good article on the subject


    That's written from a benchrest shooters perspective, where the guns and equipment are very advanced, but a lot of that can be applied in your case.
    -Seconds Count. Misses Don't-

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