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Thread: Brinks Smith & Wesson M&P trigger question

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Taylor View Post
    Factory sear?
    Yes.
    **OK**

  2. #12
    So currently, you pull the trigger and there is a lot of pre travel. Itís almost like there is a delay before it breaks.
    **OK**

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by DLWinner View Post
    So currently, you pull the trigger and there is a lot of pre travel. Itís almost like there is a delay before it breaks.
    If you want to get rid of most of the pretravel, then you want the Apex forward set trigger kit.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by crosseyedshooter View Post
    If you want to get rid of most of the pretravel, then you want the Apex forward set trigger kit.
    I would strongly advise against a FSS in a 1.0 model, it's likely to cause more problems than it solves.
    The tolerances from the factory are all over the place and sometimes they don't play well with APEX parts, especially with something like a FSS that has minimal sear engagement. I have 2 variations of the 1.0 and one works alright with the APEX and the other doesn't work at all. I am very well versed in the 1.0 platform as I carried one on duty for over 5 years and went to the armorer school. The is no easy fix and each gun may need to be specifically tuned to work with these triggers. Your best bet is to just replace each of the individual trigger components with factory parts, it should cost less than $50 on numrich.

    Do a search on Brianenos and you will find that many people have had serious problems with dead triggers and light primer strikes on their 1.0 models with APEX parts.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by sickeness View Post
    I would strongly advise against a FSS in a 1.0 model, it's likely to cause more problems than it solves.
    The tolerances from the factory are all over the place and sometimes they don't play well with APEX parts, especially with something like a FSS that has minimal sear engagement. I have 2 variations of the 1.0 and one works alright with the APEX and the other doesn't work at all. I am very well versed in the 1.0 platform as I carried one on duty for over 5 years and went to the armorer school. The is no easy fix and each gun may need to be specifically tuned to work with these triggers. Your best bet is to just replace each of the individual trigger components with factory parts, it should cost less than $50 on numrich.

    Do a search on Brianenos and you will find that many people have had serious problems with dead triggers and light primer strikes on their 1.0 models with APEX parts.
    Thanks for the info. I wasnít planning on adding more Apex. The only Apex parts in this gun currently are the plastic trigger shoe and Comp springs. I am planning on removing the comp springs this week. The only thing I can think of replacing at this point is the trigger bar. Itís an inexpensive part, so hopefully it helps. Thatís the only thing I havenít tried. I have replaced sear spring and trigger return spring with new OEM springs already.
    **OK**

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by DLWinner View Post
    Thanks for the info. I wasnít planning on adding more Apex. The only Apex parts in this gun currently are the plastic trigger shoe and Comp springs. I am planning on removing the comp springs this week. The only thing I can think of replacing at this point is the trigger bar. Itís an inexpensive part, so hopefully it helps. Thatís the only thing I havenít tried. I have replaced sear spring and trigger return spring with new OEM springs already.
    After doing some more research it looks like the culprit may be trigger spring that attaches to the front portion of the bar. That appears to be the heavy MA-compliant part.

    https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page...prod/391420000

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by sickeness View Post
    After doing some more research it looks like the culprit may be trigger spring that attaches to the front portion of the bar. That appears to be the heavy MA-compliant part.

    https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page...prod/391420000
    I replaced it with an oem standard weight spring. I believe the MA spring is red.
    I am going to try adjusting the loop before I buy a new trigger bar. Right now the weight isnít terrible, but there is almost a delay for the striker to drop. Itís weird.
    **OK**

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by DLWinner View Post
    I replaced it with an oem standard weight spring. I believe the MA spring is red.
    I am going to try adjusting the loop before I buy a new trigger bar. Right now the weight isnít terrible, but there is almost a delay for the striker to drop. Itís weird.
    If the bar is too closed, that's what might be causing the delay.
    Closing the loop results in the breaking point moving farther back, if its too far back that is what may be causing your delayed break problem.
    I would caution that if you open the loop too much and move the break too far forward you will have problems with the trigger dropping too early before the striker block fully clears and will start getting light primer strikes.

  9. #19
    Bending the loop definitely helped! Now the trigger feels like a stock M&P trigger.
    **OK**

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