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Thread: Getting on the paper

  1. #11
    I do 100 yard zeroes using 25yd targets marked appropriately - example:

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    I just put them on a USPSA or NRA Action pistol target and shoot at it at 25 yards. Very rarely off paper with a new optic. Just use a ruler if needed to measure windage and elevation, convert that to whatever your optic uses.

    So, target up, 1 round, measure, adjust, 3 to 5 rounds, adjust, 3 to 5 rounds to confirm, then off to the part of the range that allows me to shoot 100 + yards to verify zero on paper and practice holdovers on metal.
    Adding nothing to the conversation since 2015....

  2. #12
    For the intended 300 yard zero at 25 yards, you could also try this on the range:



    Other distances here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/UP...-47/18-529846/

  3. #13
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Those are a great find, thank you! I wish I understood the math enough to create one for 36/300.

    Edit - that said, I can use the 25 yard version of the 300 as a live fire second step to prove the laser zero if I can only access the nearby 25 yard indoor range. Then prove it at 36 and 300 when I can.
    Last edited by HeavyDuty; 04-25-2024 at 09:36 AM.
    Ken

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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    Those are a great find, thank you! I wish I understood the math enough to create one for 36/300.

    Edit - that said, I can use the 25 yard version of the 300 as a live fire second step to prove the laser zero if I can only access the nearby 25 yard indoor range. Then prove it at 36 and 300 when I can.
    If you are adjusting elevation (or maybe even to just estimate it?) I have taken a level and a marker and draw a plumb line after you have stapled the target down. With long range guns you can zero at 100, crank in your extended yardages, and you want to have your shots land on the line (checking the scope and rifle), and also the distances correspond to what you expected to have cranked in. I have a picture somewhere of the time I did this.

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