No need to disassemble the cylinder yet. Simple spray some air into the front cylinder lock, and make sure it’s functioning smoothly. That looks like a trap even a couple of rounds could jam up.Originally Posted by SwampDweller
I bought a S&W Model 36 brand new about ten years ago. The trigger was binding occasionally right off the bat, so the shop owner and I took the sideplate off, and shook out 3-4 small steel shavings. Problem solved.
IIRC, the Tulammo and Wolf are pretty nasty stuff.
I’ve run over 2K of cast bullet handloads in my 10mm Match Champion with no issues.
This bit will make taking the cylinder apart easier.
I’m not sure I understand. What looks like a trap?
The front cylinder lock moves freely, it doesn’t get far enough in to interfere with anything when the cylinder is being difficult to close. I have a couple of pictures at home I can post of the position of the cylinder at the point it won’t go in, I will try to post later when I get home.
I had a similar experience with my Wiley Clapp. It ended up being a less than perfect locking detent (the one in the extractor) and a small burr that had formed in the corresponding hole in the recoil shield. The wear mark on the recoil shield wasn't smooth either. I polished the detent with a felt wheel on a dremel and some jeweler's rouge. A tiny rat tail file cleaned up the hole. I did remove the cylinder release to do this. The wear mark has cleaned itself up after polishing the detent.
I'm not sure if the burr in the hole marred the detent or it was the other way around.
I will post pictures later, I couldn’t see anything that looked like a burr on the extractor detent or on the recoil shield, but I’ll take another look. I’m not even sure the cylinder gets far enough in for that to happen when it is being difficult to close, and it’s not always difficult to close.
The locking piece and the slot it rides in look like they’d be susceptible to catching crud. Smith and Wesson has moved the gas ring on and off the front of the cylinder trying to keep debris from clogging the works.
If the cylinder is not making it that far in, I would start by pulling the trigger group and inspecting the crane, where the crane goes through the frame and where the crane rides on the trigger group.
The problem is that you're having a problem. You'll only know if the cylinder partial disassembly and cleaning works if you do it and have positive results afterwards. Alternatively, you can send the GP100 to Ruger Customer Service or a qualified gunsmith.
If you read through my thread, you'll see that it isn't necessarily an isolated problem. I will say that it has periodically occurred with my GP100s, and I counsel trying the partial cylinder disassembly and cleaning/lubing, but if you're uncomfortable with doing it (and it's really not that hard or complex to do, especially if you've got a decent set of punches), by all means sent it elsewhere for a professional examination.
Best, Jon
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Here are two pictures from while I was at the range when the cylinder wouldn't close. Keep in mind this is different from when it's difficult to open.
Also, I'm fiddling with the gun right now (gently opening/closing cylinder), and at the moment it is acting normal. It goes between functioning as it should, and being sticky. I haven't disassembled it yet, I'm considering whether to try my own hand at it or to send it to a professional who can diagnose what is going on (or Ruger themselves). Anyone got a recommendation?
EDIT: I'd even be willing to send it to someone like @JonInWA or someone else intimately knowledgeable and experienced with the GP100 series. (Jon is basically who I've gleaned most of what I know on the GP100). Only thing is I'd have to send it to an FFL and there'd be all the 4473 stuff (and when I receive it back).
Last edited by SwampDweller; 04-17-2024 at 08:21 PM.
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