Beretta PX4 Storm - Trigger Job with Short Reset

[preeb]

Simplifying the friction values..
The lower the better.

For lubricated surfaces min values are:
NP3 = 0.07
DLC = 0.02
Polished hard steel = 0.03

For dry surfaces min values are:
NP3 = 0.17
DLC = 0.1
Polished hard steel = 0.7

Conclusions:
DLC is the best (on paper as I never tried it)
Lubricated Polished Steel is better than lubricated NP3 (verified)
Dry NP3 is better than dry Polished Steel
NP3 is great ONLY if you want to run dry (zero lube) as long as it is still intact.
All 3 are better when lubed
I gotta do an all DLC PX4 (-;

[car541]

Polished Trigger Bar including all engagement surfaces.
Careful not to change the geometry and surfaces. Only polish!

Attachment 116117

Also if you want to accomplish the same elimination of the notch (with more cost, and much less sense of accomplishment), swapping in a Landon trigger bar will get you the same reset.

https://langdontactical.com/optimize...e-trigger-bar/

The notch in the trigger bar is set up to allow the firing pin safety lever to drop into the notch when the trigger bar is pushed down by the slide cycling. What makes the reset so much shorter is that the trigger bar doesn’t have to go back far enough to reset the firing pin safety plunger. With any of the “no notch” trigger bars (Langdon, silver soldered as above or the extreme S bar for the 92) the slide returns to battery on an unlocked firing pin (assuming you haven’t gotten off the trigger during the time it takes the slide to cycle).

Since this is the case, be very careful modifying the single action notch on the hammer, since hammer follow on an unlocked firing pin can be somewhat exciting.

[preeb]

Also if you want to accomplish the same elimination of the notch (with more cost, and much less sense of accomplishment), swapping in a Landon trigger bar will get you the same reset.

https://langdontactical.com/optimize...e-trigger-bar/

The notch in the trigger bar is set up to allow the firing pin safety lever to drop into the notch when the trigger bar is pushed down by the slide cycling. What makes the reset so much shorter is that the trigger bar doesn’t have to go back far enough to reset the firing pin safety plunger. With any of the “no notch” trigger bars (Langdon, silver soldered as above or the extreme S bar for the 92) the slide returns to battery on an unlocked firing pin (assuming you haven’t gotten off the trigger during the time it takes the slide to cycle).

Since this is the case, be very careful modifying the single action notch on the hammer, since hammer follow on an unlocked firing pin can be somewhat exciting.

I do own the LTT CC equipped with their NP3 bar. Geometry is the same but it’s not as smooth as a lubed polished steel modified OEM bar.
Also, I’m not sure of it, but I heard LTT stopped offering their px4 OP trigger bar for the last few months and for those who don’t wish to do what I do and opt to purchase one from LTT I hope they will have these available soon, preferably in DLC coating. I will try a DLC one for sure.
Thanks for the warning on the sear filing. I believe I have the same warning glowing in red up there in the post (-;

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

I do own the LTT CC equipped with their NP3 bar. Geometry is the same but it’s not as smooth as a lubed polished steel modified OEM bar.
Also, I’m not sure of it, but I heard LTT stopped offering their px4 OP trigger bar for the last few months and for those who don’t wish to do what I do and opt to purchase one from LTT I hope they will have these available soon, preferably in DLC coating. I will try a DLC one for sure.
Thanks for the warning on the sear filing. I believe I have the same warning glowing in red up there in the post (-;

While this has been associated with high round counts, I have had two sear springs break during firing. The hammer fell forward like a DAO and was fine. I even kept shooting in double action for a little bit.

If my firing pin block plunger was not reset to the blocking position during cycling with the trigger still held to the rear... it would have been troublesome and there might have been some holes where they weren't supposed to be.

[preeb]

While this has been associated with high round counts, I have had two sear springs break during firing. The hammer fell forward like a DAO and was fine. I even kept shooting in double action for a little bit.

If my firing pin block plunger was not reset to the blocking position during cycling with the trigger still held to the rear... it would have been troublesome and there might have been some holes where they weren't supposed to be.

I believe Fully Auto firearms are prohibited. Mostly..

[hank440]

So how light of a hammer spring can you go on this PX4 and still maintain 100% with factory ammo ? #10 or #11 hammer spring ?

[preeb]

So how light of a hammer spring can you go on this PX4 and still maintain 100% with factory ammo ? #10 or #11 hammer spring ?

#10 worked reliably on all my PX4s even with harder rifle primers (nato ammo).

[hank440]

Thanks preeb 👍

[preeb]

Thanks preeb 👍

You're very welcome.
Shoot straight

[JustAnotherPatriot]

Would love to do the LTT trigger bar, but can't find them anywhere. Wondering what the difference between the Langdon bars and stock Beretta bars are.