Auto Break In Query

[RJ]

You may have gotten this advice already, but it's an idea to just get the gun home, inspect it after a field strip, then take it to the range and see how it shoots for you. 1911s are very configurable for hand size with two different grip thicknesses, and various trigger shoe sizes that can be tailored to the user.

I have M/L hands (7.25" from thumb base to tip of middle finger) and find that thin grips and a Short trigger suit me well, but it depends on your particular hand sizes, obviously.

Good luck!

[Danko]

My hands are somewhat large, I generally wear Xl gloves. Thing is I'm only 5' 10" and a hair. Knowing the standard grip panel thickness dimension will be very helpful in knowing what size I need if the panels that come on the gun prove to be too thin.

Thank you for providing the dimension!

[BN]

When I saw the thread title, my first thoughts were; don't leave valuables on the front seat where they are visible and keep your doors locked.

After reading the thread, I realized that @Trooper224 gave you the best advice.

[CraigS]

I would not worry about different grips now. Shoot the gun a bunch and then maybe?? If you think you'd like to try thicker, get some tape and make it thicker first. Hockey stick tape is great for this. Take it to the range w/ you try 6 layers, add 2-3 more, ad 2-3 more. I was an auto tech when we started shooting so I was used to the grips on air impact wrenches and electric drills. For years and years I put thicker grips on my beretta 92s. I retired 12 yrs ago. I still use drills and impact wrenches but nowhere near as often. I am now using the thinnest grips I can find on my 92.

[Skinner Precision, LLC]

I would not worry about different grips now. Shoot the gun a bunch and then maybe?? If you think you'd like to try thicker, get some tape and make it thicker first. Hockey stick tape is great for this. Take it to the range w/ you try 6 layers, add 2-3 more, ad 2-3 more. I was an auto tech when we started shooting so I was used to the grips on air impact wrenches and electric drills. For years and years I put thicker grips on my beretta 92s. I retired 12 yrs ago. I still use drills and impact wrenches but nowhere near as often. I am now using the thinnest grips I can find on my 92.

Since the OP is talking about a 1911, wrapping the grip w/hocky tape is a bad idea because of the grip safety. While some "cool kids" rubber band or pin the grip safety to deactivate it, it isn't prudent in my opinion, especially with all the unknowns of a internet interactions.

Since the OP is new to 1911's and asking about dryfire / break in, I will offer the advice that dryfire is great but dropping the slide on a empty chamber using the slide stop is a not so good idea as it can cause sear bounce and can damage the engagement surfaces of the hammer and sear.

Like @RJ indicated a 1911 is very modular with grips and triggers and I will add flat vs arched mainspring housings but instead of trying to swap parts (which can require fitting parts and always involves cost) its easier to try other people's setups after gaining some experience with your own pistol. If you attend a USPSA, Steel Challenge , or IDPA match you would probably find people who would let you try their setups and/ or mentor you.

My advice to the OP is buy a piece of skate tape / stair tape for the front strap if it is not checkered, buy as much ammo as you can, dryfire it (in a safe and prudent manner), shoot as much as you can (preferably with instruction, and shoot a match or ten in a venue of your liking before making any modifications

[CraigS]

Mr Skinner you make an excellent point. I know about grip safeties but not being a 1911 shooter, they slipped my mind. Thanks for straightening me out. Maybe just build up the panels themselves running the tape vertical. Anything to give the effect w/o being permanent and w/o spending $60+ on each thickness experiment.

[Stephanie B]

When I saw the thread title, my first thoughts were; don't leave valuables on the front seat where they are visible and keep your doors locked.

I was going to suggest using a Slim-Jim on the passenger's side door.

[JonInWA]

With a new pistol (be it BNIB or a resale) I always field strip, clean and lubricate-and the same with the magazines. I agree that for most pistols, the term "break in" is a misnomer and unnecessary per se, but I still strongly suggest putting 100-200 rounds through it, if only for YOUR familiarization with its characteristics and controls, and how you index with it, and for zeroing and any necessary sight corrections.

I also strongly advise running through a quantity of your carry cartridges through it (particularly if they're 147 gr 9mm or a unique or different bullet shape).

Best, Jon

[JTQ]

My hands are somewhat large, I generally wear Xl gloves. Thing is I'm only 5' 10" and a hair. Knowing the standard grip panel thickness dimension will be very helpful in knowing what size I need if the panels that come on the gun prove to be too thin.

Thank you for providing the dimension!

Chances are reasonably good your hands aren't bigger than the hands of forum member @SW CQB 45

You can see him gripping a 1911 in this thread. https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....unning/page251

He may have some grip panel advice.

[Danko]

Thank you all for your input, but I have a similar break in case to report. I was on the 1911 Forum site last night to absorb more information about the gun. I know much more than I did a month ago, but then I knew nothing other than who designed the gun and what one looks like. I have to increase my knowledge base much further before I reach any level of comfort. At the same time I realize many 1911 owners never seem content with what they know and continue studying the gun and literature for decades, and I totally understand and appreciate that.

Now to the topic of break in. I was gathering 1911 information on the 1911 Forum site last night and came across a guy who had a brief video on how his new 1911 .45 gun's rails and slide were interacting. The slide was off the gun and he showed how it was sticking/dragging near the front and back. When he held the gun vertically, the slide didn't fall off of its rails as he said it should. He then showed himself applying Fliz metal polishing compound to the rails and slide. He moved the slide fore an aft for ? length of time. When the video began again, he demonstrated the slide fall off its rails when the gun was inverted, so he was happy. Firing a dozen rounds or so probably would have accomplished the same thing, but I appreciated his attention to the details. He wasn't going to fire his gun until his gun rails and slide were as slick as glass to meet his expectations.

I know why I immediately became interested in the rail slide relationship: Three years ago I bought a 4.25" M&P 9mm, my first gun. (Love that gun), took it to the range the day I received it. I didn't finish firing one box because the slide didn't always return to battery. I whacked it with my palm to provide the needed help. It fired a few rounds fine, then suddenly the slide stuck around halfway. It did this about a dozen times. Being my first auto pistol I became a little concerned so I decided to return home to clean it and lube and see if I could see an obvious problem. I cleaned and lubed it and ran the slide a dozen times or so and it slid smooth as far as I could tell. I returned to the range the following day and the gun operated perfectly for a hundred or so rounds. I was relieved! When we're new to things, we generally tread with caution because we know we don't yet know anything! Oh-oh, now what!