Dimpled shoulders on .223 cases

[Hambo]

That's more lube than I use when necking cases up/down to form a different cartridge.

I use spray lube on pistol cases that are headed for the 550. For rifle brass I still use my ancient RCBS lube pad so that the necks don't get lubed. If the sizer/decapping pin feels sticky, I will put a small amount of lube inside one case neck, and that's usually enough for however many rounds I'm loading.

[mmc45414]

I would also say to just go shoot the dimpled ones and they will not be dimpled anymore.

[NETim]

i've been using this Lyman neck lube kit for ages now. Works just fine.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012867486?pid=256493

[mmc45414]

Also, don't wanna dogpile on your loading process, but...
I would recommend backing off the crimp die a little. I am presuming this is a Lee crimp die, and that thing is really powerful and it is pretty easy to dent the bullets. Not safety related, but maybe a accuracy detriment.
I say this might be a bit too much, since the collet is leaving marks:

[GyroF-16]

Thanks to all for the replies and advice…

I clearly don’t yet really know what I’m doing reloading rifle ammo….
After multiple stuck cases with 300 BLK, I started lubing the heck out of the case necks, which almost eliminated the problem.
Ironically, I had 2 stuck cases during that .223 reloading session where I got the dimpled shoulders (which happened during reforming, not bullet seating).

I’m now planning to change my process, at least for .223/5.56:
- try Imperial dry lube inside the neck
- try Imperial wax on the case body
- adjust my “Factory Crimp” die so it’s not leaving visible marks on the neck
(thanks @mmc45414 - I didn’t know any better. You should see my 300 BLK case necks. Learning has occurred.)

[Borderland]

I don't crimp my .223/5.56 ammo. It runs fine in my Mini-14 and bolt rifle. I think that's pretty common. You might want to check it out.

[mmc45414]

I’m now planning to change my process, at least for .223/5.56:
- try Imperial dry lube inside the neck
- try Imperial wax on the case body

I know there are a lotta good products, but that darn lanolin (what the Dillon stuff is made from) sure is slick.

- adjust my “Factory Crimp” die so it’s not leaving visible marks on the neck
(thanks @mmc45414 - I didn’t know any better. You should see my 300 BLK case necks. Learning has occurred.)

I am not so smart, just am experienced, I have a rather large quantity of loaded rounds I kinda butchered before I learned...
These look worse IRL:

[GyroF-16]

I know there are a lotta good products, but that darn lanolin (what the Dillon stuff is made from) sure is slick.



I am not so smart, just am experienced, I have a rather large quantity of loaded rounds I kinda butchered before I learned...
These look worse IRL:

Yeah…. That’s pretty much what all my 300 BLK reloads currently look like.

[mmc45414]

Yeah…. That’s pretty much what all my 300 BLK reloads currently look like.

I wouldn't sweat it, just back off a bit in the future.
You might experiment with one from seating before crimping. If you can push it against the edge of the workbench and it doesn't move, maybe just let the crimp die touch off lightly.

[GyroF-16]

OMG!! Can we please get a ‘so-to-speak’?

Try Hornady One Shot case spray lubricant.

Thanks, @Trigger

My wife got me some for Christmas, but I’d stayed with the supply of Lee lube that I’d learned to use…
Tried the Hornady One Shot, applied in a gallon ziplock, then a quick application to the case mouth with a q-tip in a reloading tray.
…it’s like buttah - never had such smooth reloading with rifle cases before this.

It definitely smells “oily”, but my wife was on the couch 6-9 feet from me while I used it, and I got no objections, so I’ll cal it a win.

Thanks again!