I'm a doofus when it comes to revolvers...what does it mean to get the throats honed? Why do you need it done? What benefit does it confer?Originally Posted by 03RN
I'm a doofus when it comes to revolvers...what does it mean to get the throats honed? Why do you need it done? What benefit does it confer?
So jacketed bullets worked perfect.
With cast boolits the tight throats would squeeze the bullets down and that would allow allot of blast around the bullet that caused vaporized lead onto the arbor that would caused a cylinder that was hard to turn after 50 rounds.
It also allows blast around the bullet that causes excessive leading.
It went from barely being able to shoot 50 rounds to over 1k without cleaning.
On the ragged edge of the world I'll roam,
And the home of the wolf shall be my home - Robert Service
Generically it means polishing the front part of the cylinder chambers. Oversized, undersized, inconsistent, or machining defects in the cylinder throats can impact accuracy, leading, etc. Honing can help correct all of these (except of course oversized). Oversized and undersized is also dependent on the bullets actually used and there are relative differences between jacketed and lead bullets.
no one sees what's written on the spine of his own autobiography.
I impulse bought the Taurus 856 Ultralite Defender.
I was on my way home from another rejection of my $450 cash offer on the LCRx and I stopped into my local pawn shop. They had just put out a NIB blued 856 Ultralite with a clearance tag well under $300. I chewed them down to $200. The word was that a guy special ordered it in and then never came and paid it off and they wanted it gone.
The lockup and timing is good. The trigger was a bit bad, at first. Because of the lightness of the gun, it wobbles a bit more with my poor trigger control, and it has a very pronounced two-part pull, very KER-CHUNk. After dryfiring it about 300 times, it was still gritty, and even "squeaky". I pulled the side plate off and carefully brushed it out with a very soft make-up brush, then oiled every single wear point I could find. I didn't remove any parts. Instantly improved. I've dry fired it another 300 times and it feels much better. the squeak and chunkyness is gone.
We shall see how it shoots!
And there were 4" skinny barrel M12s. That actually might be a neat configuration.
https://revolverguy.com/the-sw-model...eight-classic/
On the ragged edge of the world I'll roam,
And the home of the wolf shall be my home - Robert Service
I've got a 2" 856 UL and it shoots and works fine, kind of like a modern day but more affordable Model 12. It isn't fun to shoot, except maybe with standard velocity 110 Critical Defense, but my trigger, like yours, did smooth out.
What sights did you go with? I'm not a fan of the stock sights on my 66-8 and was looking to change them out. Either a Weigand rear/Dawson FO front because I like being able to zero where I want or D&L fixed sights for something a little tougher were in the running, but I was curious what others were running.
"If you think it's expensive to hire a professional to do the job, wait until you hire an amateur."
Disclaimer: I have previously worked in the firearms industry as an engineer. Thoughts and opinions expressed here are mine alone and not those of my prior employers.
Hi, allow me to introduce you to the Taurus 856 Defender Ultra Lite: 3 inch, aluminum frame 38 Special +P. Holds six rounds too, so it's technically better than an LCRx in that regard
https://www.taurususa.com/revolvers/...hogue-r-rubber
Da, is nice, in my opinion is ideal carry revolver.
I admit my bias though - I want Colt to bring me effectively the same gun in a Cobra. Because I have a lot of Colt revolvers and for whatever ass backwards reason I prefer the Colt cylinder release.
And I still need one of these. When I escape the People's Republic of New York.
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