There's also the confounding factor of (IIRC) all Colt and the post 1982 S&W barrels being crush fit. The older pinned barrels might flex the frame less during removal/installation and maybe you could get away with more there? I don't actually know how much that would help, if any. None of my high mileage S&Ws are from before 1982 so I'm just guessing there.Originally Posted by Half Moon
Im not sure exactly where this rumor came from. Many later ones are tighter torqued, but not anything Id call crush fit. Ive swapped several Smiths and pulled a couple Colts, none were anything more then average to noticeably tighter torqued than pinned barrel guns I messed with.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Really? Me and dad only pulled one. Maybe I'm misremembering but I recall that sucker was on there.
edit: Maybe "crush fit" was the wrong term - not a machinist.
The term was actually used in the firearms press years ago, and seems to have become entrenched in the shooting legends and vocabulary. Yes, many are pretty tight, but I dont think crush fit is truly correct.
I made home made tools to remove or torque Smith barrels, they take a bit more than most older ones, but they arent distorted or damaged at all by being installed. They turn in and out just as smooth as any of them, but many later ones are just tighter. I cant tell any difference trying pinned vs unpinned barrels in either type until the actual torque. My barrel tool is a piece of 1/8 x 1" angle about 14 inches long with 2 holes drilled to clamp another piece of the same material in the center area and use hardwood blocks roughly shaped to match the frame contours (I use a spare yoke to help support the frame, I dont have actual frame blocks) to hold the frame. They pop loose with some effort, but are nice and smooth after popped loose. I clamp the barrel in a bench vise with other hardwood blocks roughly routed out to fit the barrel contours.
Some pinned ones are tighter than average, and some later ones arent quite as tight as most later ones, with some overlap. On average later ones seem tighter, just not by a huge amount.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
Ah. I've been using the wrong terminology then.
I wonder if that's enough to make a difference when swapping barrels on the aluminum frames.Some pinned ones are tighter than average, and some later ones arent quite as tight as most later ones, with some overlap. On average later ones seem tighter, just not by a huge amount.
Its likely harder on them than steel frame guns, but I think any torqueing on aluminum frames and threads is hard on them. Galling is probably a factor as someone mentioned I believe. I believe Linebaughs factory contact mentioned they wouldnt swap barrels on aluminum frames.
I suspect part of the torque difference at the non-pinned transition may be its easier to spec with less precision by allowing higher torque. Just a guess. Like I said, there seems some variation in how much torque they have in the ones Ive messed with, just with higher on average amounts compared to older ones. The aluminum frames may be more sensitive to torque values though.
Rugers have never been pinned, I dont know what their torque values are, I havent pulled any.
“Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to take rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
All I've heard or read about pulling model 12 barrels are horror stories. I'm sure there has to be some successes out there, but I've yet to find one.
There is a lot of suspicion that quite a few model 12s that cracked had been cracked all along and it was only discovered upon barrel removal.
I don't care. I'm not risking it...
...as tempting as a 3" heavy barrel RB 12 might be.
I believe the late, great Karl Sokol had replaced Barrels on a few Airweight guns over the years, and I THINK I know of one other 'Smith who has done so successfully, but there are precious few "Gun Plumbers" I'd trust to try it on a Gun of mine...
Jetfire,
We talked about how this would be damn near perfect if it was DAO with a bobbed hammer. That's for folks who know what these revolvers are for. The unwashed will wail and moan about "muh single action" being gone.
Regional Government Sales Manager for Aimpoint, Inc. USA
Co-owner Hardwired Tactical Shooting (HiTS)
Per jetfire's suggestion towards the back page, get that 856 Ultralite. If you don't like it, wait a year and see what happens at SHOT (maybe).
Regional Government Sales Manager for Aimpoint, Inc. USA
Co-owner Hardwired Tactical Shooting (HiTS)
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