Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Lubed my 642

  1. #1
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    NH

    Lubed my 642

    Several months ago I'd received my 642 Pro back after 2 trips to S&W, the first trip was for a broken stud and the frame was replaced, I had the gun for about 2 weeks ran 2-3 cylinder's and it went back to S&W, the barrel was replaced. I hadn't shot it much, just kind of pissed with the whole episode, maybe a hundred rd's or so to confirm function, poa / poi with a fair amount of dry fire. The trigger was about 9.5lb's prior to any problem's, after I got it back this last time the trigger was 10 lbs or little under, I figured, well...new frame I'll shoot it in some. Well the trigger was worse and the reset had gotten pretty sluggish so, after a pretty good article on American Fighting Revolver on J frame Lubing, I figured I'd check it sooner than I'd planned. Not that I had big expectation's but, when the side plate came off it was obvious there was no lube in the gun at all, I don't mean very little here or there or it was dried up, there was zero lube in the gun, assembled and shipped bone dry and I don.t suppose the curled aluminum sliver that was maybe twice the diameter of a human hair and over .5" long ( maybe from the barrel replacement? )with the rest of the aluminum dust / small flakes I got out were helping things. After smoothing out the rebound block and hammer strut and with some lube it's nice and smooth at the low end of 9.5 lb's. I decided against installing the new Apex kit I'd picked up prior to the first trip to Smith, not wanting to go through $250 of mixed ammo for vetting again but may try a Wolff 16 lb rebound spring. I do look forward to picking up a 642 / 442 UC when one shows up, if it passes an initial once over but, it does seem that once initial rounds are run through to hopefully confirm there are no warranty issues, an internal inspection may be a good idea.

  2. #2
    If you do decide to go with the APEX kit, their installation video recommends putting grease on the rebound slide. Don’t do that. It works fine, until it doesn’t and the whole thing gums up.
    I was into 10mm Auto before it sold out and went mainstream, but these days I'm here for the revolver and epidemiology information.

  3. #3
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    NH
    Quote Originally Posted by Lester Polfus View Post
    If you do decide to go with the APEX kit, their installation video recommends putting grease on the rebound slide. Don’t do that. It works fine, until it doesn’t and the whole thing gums up.
    Thanks, I stoned the block and used Lucas Extreme oil on all the lube points, grease sounds like a problem

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by D-der View Post
    I decided against installing the new Apex kit I'd picked up prior to the first trip to Smith, not wanting to go through $250 of mixed ammo for vetting again but may try a Wolff 16 lb rebound spring.
    Wisdom. I like a Wolff 14-15# rebound spring in all my J-frames; I try both, making sure I get a strong enough return to push my big meathook forward. I think I got away with 13# in one gun, which was very slick from a ton of dry fire. That is the only spring I'll screw around with.

    The one time I tried an Apex Duty/Carry spring kit in a J, I got failures to ignite about 3-4% of the time, and saw other cops' Js on the range with the same problem.

  5. #5
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Texas
    I never saw a Smith revolver that was lubed at the factory.

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •