I am always amazed how changing bullet weight in a revolver can result in such dramatic changes in point of impact, where with semi auto loads, they hit fairly close to each other.
I am always amazed how changing bullet weight in a revolver can result in such dramatic changes in point of impact, where with semi auto loads, they hit fairly close to each other.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
I haven’t clocked it, but I just got a chrono, so once I learn to use it, I’ll be sure to clock this load.Originally Posted by 42Willys
Sweet. I need to get a chrono.
My airweight practice load is a 125 grain Missouri Bullet Co. coated lead flat point over 3.5 grains TiteGroup.
It’s not nothing recoil wise, but not uncomfortable. Shoots really well in my Model 12. I only have a Lee Classic hand loading kit and hope to upgrade capability soon.
Mechanical unlocking of the breech is a thing, I’ve noticed that same phenomenon over the years, as well.
”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB
Same for me. Even shooting B8s at 25, usually 115-147 is pretty close, maybe I hold to the bottom or top of the black depending on what the gun was zeroed for and what I'm currently shooting, but the revolvers can easily be several inches off as close at 10 yards away.
My 642 needs 130s to hit to POA while my M49 needs 148-158s. My fixed-sight K and L frames are regulated for 158s…except for my M10-5 4”, which needs 130s. My autoloaders are mostly agnostic.
"Everything in life is really simple, provided you don’t know a f—–g thing about it." - Kevin D. Williamson
IIRC New production J frames with the MIM barrels shoot POA with 125-130. Old production Js are regulated to 158.
I don't think there's any MIM in the "Regular-production" one-piece Barrels--AFAIK, they are still Forged and then Rifled by ECM, where in the " Old Days" the rifling was cut with a Broach...Don't know about the two-piece Barrels as on the UC Series...
I got my 432UC today. I got it from a gun shop in the rear of a hardware store in a small town in fly over Ohio.
I put my order in right after SHOT and he said he would try to get one. He had been at SHOT Show, so he knew what I was talking about.
He's going to try to get me a second one, because my wife will get this one. She's left handed and left eye dominant and needs the sights adjusted slightly for her eyesight. This gun shoots right to the sights for her. These are her targets for the first rounds she fired through this revolver. The IPSC steel was at 12 yards. It took a couple shots to get the feel of the trigger and then she put 4 in the middle. The square steel is at 20 yards. The round top front sight will take a little practice for distance. The LCR 22 she carries now is only good for near targets before it starts wandering off and it can't be adjusted.
I shot some on paper to see where it hit and how it grouped before she shot. The left 2 targets are S&B wad cutters and Lost River wad cutters at 7 yards with a drive the dot center hold. Elevation is good but hits to the left for me. The right target is my handloads at 25 yards with a center hold. They hit a little high and left. Then I drew a circle to use as an aiming point and shot Lost River's wad cutters at 25 yards. The aiming point was a little hard to see plus it was 35* with a 10-15 MPH wind. Bitter cold.
Everything about this revolver is good. Sights are perfect for a fighting revolver. My green ring appeared dim at first, but I hit it with a flashlight and now it pops. Trigger may be the best J-Frame trigger I ever felt. I did get a few light strikes at first, but I really scrubbed the chambers and I think that cured it. My hand loads with Fed primers went off every time but a couple of the commercial loads needed a second hit before I cleaned it.
Many thanks to the folks who worked on getting these made. This is the best J-Frame ever.
That's high praise comin' from you, Bill--Thanks for the report!
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