I'm confident that if I just do slow fire target shooting I'm not going to do any damage. I got pretty good at tapping the bullet out lol. My 2" m10 was the easiestOriginally Posted by WDR
I'm confident that if I just do slow fire target shooting I'm not going to do any damage. I got pretty good at tapping the bullet out lol. My 2" m10 was the easiest
On the ragged edge of the world I'll roam,
And the home of the wolf shall be my home - Robert Service
My screwup is usually upside down primers, but I've got a handle on that now thanks to the case checker thing.
#RESIST
Maybe be glad of that, my recent squib experience was after I bought my RL1100.
There is a ratchet that is a safeguard that prevents going backwards so you cannot get a case under the powder measure twice. It is also an unusual feature for someone coming from almost 40yrs on their other presses, and combined with the immense power of the roller cam, new users can get confused and think something is stuck in a die and break the ratchet, and I did. The ratchet is also kinda noisy and clunky and many people remove the thing anyway, and like a dumbass I took the advice of the keyboard chest thumpers that insisted that if you need that ratchet you are too stupid to own a gun, and used it for a while without it.
And I can tell you an RL1100 and a new user sure can make a big pile of crappy ammo in a short amount of time...
I meant the load you ended up with, but the one you intended. The charge is low, correct? Or are you saying some loads are primer only?
Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.
Gotcha
I think some cases are empty and some are really low.
On the ragged edge of the world I'll roam,
And the home of the wolf shall be my home - Robert Service
Not being a smartass (totally speaking from experience), I have found a section of these reflective driveway markers make a good squib rod, especially with a 9mm case stuck on the end you are hitting.
Does that not splinter? Do you use it whole or cut into shorter sections?
I found a piece of brass rod on Amazon. I cut it the length of my 34 barrel and then the remainder I cut into shorter pieces. I find the shorter pieces easier to handle.
For sure it needs to be cut down, and a 9mm case on the end you are hitting works well.
A brass rod would be better. Also, using the vice to push rather than strike is better, in my (unfortunate...) experience.
That’s all I’d take from it. Anytime I make an error and I am not permanently damaged, I take it as a terrific lesson. I’d be more concerned if I kept making the same goof repeatedly. I bet the next time you reload you’ll likely never make that mistake again. I’ve had two stuck squibs in my loading career-4 inch 686 and a Glock 29. Each was enough of a pain in the butt to clear that they caused me to change some of my practices.
I have been using a single stage press for 55 years. Turret presses are also single stage. My method to reduce errors is loading in small batches. Also, I prepare brass in advance. My final stage is sitting down to add powder and then seat and crimp bullets. On the left side of powder measure are cases. After charging a case, I place this case in a block. Before seating bullets, I look at the block of bullets and then peek inside each. Concern is detecting a double charge or no charge. The last step is seating and crimping bullets.
Yes, I have had squib loads and primer only loads in my career. That was in the early years. The above procedure prevents errors for me.
Note that a careful person can crank out ammo with a progressive and have minimal errors. It all depends on technique and paying attention. My method is slow. I have always enjoyed trying to make perfect ammo. I enjoyed casting perfect bullets. I even enjoy cleaning my weapons.
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