I hate the serrated triggers on S&W revolvers. I have a 28-2 and a 15-2 that have them. Being as how original old school forged parts aren't getting any easier to find, should I break out the Dremel? What would you do? These are shooter grade guns. The trigger on my 27 is safe. I ain't touching that one. At least with a Dremel...
I think I’ve used an L frame trigger in a K frame, so this might work: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/309040
Make it your own. If something reduces your enjoyment or usability… Dremel it into submission!Originally Posted by Spartan1980
I'm feeling your pain. I want to take the serrations off the trigger of my M37, and lop off the rest of the hammer spur.....and reduce the hammer spur on my BHP. I've started to eyeball a bench-top belt/disk sander setup.
"It's surprising how often you start wondering just how featureless a desert some people's inner landscapes must be."
-Maple Syrup Actual
To answer the question with a question: do you hate the serrations enough to justify damaging the resale value of the gun?
If it were me, I rarely sell a gun. If I buy it, I intend to keep it. However, unforeseen things come up. It would need to bother me a great deal before I would take a Dremel to it.
How do you work the trigger? Do you keep your finger in the same place throughout the squeeze, or slide your finger along the trigger for more leverage as the trigger comes back? I keep my finger in the same place, but better shooters than me have used the other method.
Having said that, I did take a Dremel to the sharp corners of the hammer spur of a Detective Special, and have zero regrets. Messing with the internals of other revolvers has been a good learning experience without doing any real damage. Of course all of that was done when replacement parts and factory service were more available if something went wrong.
Any legal information I may post is general information, and is not legal advice. Such information may or may not apply to your specific situation. I am not your attorney unless an attorney-client relationship is separately and privately established.
Another option is a thin silicone tape pad or other removable adhesive cover.
Someone on the S&W Forums probably has what you want, whether original or modified...
Okie John
“The reliability of the 30-06 on most of the world’s non-dangerous game is so well established as to be beyond intelligent dispute.” Finn Aagaard
"Don't fuck with it" seems to prevent the vast majority of reported issues." BehindBlueI's
Y’all do keep in mind that a case-hardened trigger is, indeed, HARDENED on the surface. Hardened on the outside, and notably softer on the inside. Dremel (or, not) accordingly.
Retar’d LE. Kinesthetic dufus.
Don’t tread on volcanos!
IIRC the K/L/N triggers are the same. The hammers are different.
So if OP wants a shooter there's nothing to stop them from buying a new, cheaper take-off smooth-faced MIM trigger and putting it on an older 28-2, then futzing with them until they get the DA and/or SA pull they want.
IIRC the MIM parts are through-hardened and the case-colors are just cosmetic.
My hand size is pretty large and my trigger finger indexes at an angle (not perpendicular throughout the trigger stroke), so it kinda slides along the face of the trigger to an extent. This is a little more pronounced with the K/L frames vs. N frames.
The hammers are indeed different due to the larger cylinder and the longer reach to the primer. These older ones also have hammer noses vs. having the frame mounted firing pin. I haven't even thought of looking at the triggers to see if a MIM trigger might work. That might be an option.
My 28 needs some love, if I go into "Miculek impersonation mode" with it, it'll skip a chamber occasionally. At normal human speeds carry up and lockup work as it should. It has some use under it's belt, this is why I'm thinking of addressing the trigger face now while I have the side plate off. The 15 is in great shape and is my favorite wadcutter gun, it's just a joy to shoot except for trashing my trigger finger.
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