While apart, I highly recommend polishing the trigger latch/plunger channel, latch, and plunger. Of all the fixing and fussing I have done on my GP's this process resulted in immediate improvement to the DA trigger pull.
While apart, I highly recommend polishing the trigger latch/plunger channel, latch, and plunger. Of all the fixing and fussing I have done on my GP's this process resulted in immediate improvement to the DA trigger pull.
I think I'll do a detailed disassembly once I pass the 1k mark or so.Originally Posted by ECVMatt
It's weird, sometimes while I'm cleaning it, the cylinder will get sticky getting it back in and the trigger pull gets really heavy. But then I'll swing the cylinder out again, give a wipedown on all the places that typically need it, and it's back to normal. I'm not sure what causes that and whether it's indicative of something off with the gun itself, or maybe getting junk I can't really see in such a spot that causes it.
I've had it happen twice with my 4" GP100, not with the new 5".
Not sure what would cause that, but it could just be junk in the internals.
I might not hurt to break it down and get everything spic and span.
One note of caution, do not pull the trigger once the trigger guard assembly is out of the gun. The pawl plunger and pawl plunger spring will go flying. I put my trigger guard assembly in a zip lock bag to take it all the way down and keep the part from flying.
Over the years, I have purchased a lot of replacement plungers and springs* that were launched into frustratingly effective hiding places. To paraphrase Herb Tarlek, "That happened to me twenty times. Then I got smart."
The bag trick works.
*And detent balls. There is nothing like a tiny, hardened detent ball dropping on a concrete shop floor for bouncing into inaccessability.
Last edited by gato naranja; 03-05-2024 at 07:24 AM.
gn
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