Cleaning and Lubricating A Ruger GP100

[JonInWA]

On it's face, cleaning a lubing a revolver is quite simple-clean the barrel, cylinder chambers, and remove GSR grunge from the inner frame window and forcing cone area, land follow up by lightly applying a thin film of lube/anti-corrosive, and pretty much call things good. Frankly, that protocol for the most part works quite well, and is all that's needed.

But (and this being p-f, there's of course always a "but"), sometimes/periodically/situationally you may need to go a bit deeper. Ruger has an excellent series of videos on their website that nicely go above and beyond in talking users through things,

https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162880411&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162879867&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162880653&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162881567&cat=3769277

I found that this series provides some very useful and specific information-their endorsement of TW25B and showing the specific lubrication points and amounts to be applied was much appreciated.

Field-stripping a Ruger double-action revolver (in my case, a Security Six and GP100) isn't inordinately difficult, but in addition to the videos, I recommend having on hand some print resources showing component orientations. This is especially recommended if you do a detailed disassembly of the trigger groups and cylinder groups.

Rugers are exceptionally well-built and easy to maintain, and logical in their disassemblies and reassemblies. Regarding trigger groups, I've only felt it necessary to disassemble to facilitate removing and replacing trigger return springs. Regarding cylinders, I routinely (usually annually, or after protracted heavy use, particularly if there's any cylinder rotational sluggishness or binding) do a detailed disassembly up to the point of the ejector star-removing it requires specialized tools, and probably really isn't necessary, so that's as far as I go.

For trigger groups, my preference is to remove the group assembly, and spray with Dri-Slide, a molybdenum disulfate dry film lubricant suspended in a liquid carrier solution, which after application, drys/evaporates, leaving a film of dry lube on the components. This has the advantage of providing lubrication, but without the presence of a liquid attractant which can attract and hold GSR. I've used Dri-Slide on my revolver actions since the late 1980s/early 1990s and been very pleased with it; it comes both as an aerosol spray and as a drop-applied liquid.

Ruger cylinders feature two ball bearings in a race that facilitate cylinder rotation and retention on the crane. Over use, GSR grunge can accumulate inside the cylinder crane hole, and in the ball bearing race. One technique for eliminating this is simply to hose the areas down with brake cleaner or similar, then blow out the areas with compressed or canned air. Alternatively, you can disassemble the cylinder, which is what I prefer, because I think that the accumulated grunge is more effectively accessed and removed by hand. Ruger also recommends a light application of TW25B to the crane axle, which is only accomplished via disassembly.

The disassembly isn't particularly difficult or tricky, but there are some smaller components that you need to keep track of carefully-particularly a Crane Latch Plunger and spring, which tend to launch out of their housing in the crane during disassembly, and the Cylinder Retaining Balls, which can fall out of their recesses in the crane, and the Front Latch Pivot pin. The Latch requires a specific orientation on installation.

With the partial cylinder disassembly, the major cylinder parts and the inner cylinder areas (especially the ball race) can be accessed for removal of accumulated grunge.

The overall deep clean/lubrication process isn't particularly difficult or time consuming, but can pay some nice operational dividends. Whenever I perform it, I'm reminded of the genius of William Ruger and his staff in the revolver's design and manufacture-and I'm concurrently appreciative of the late Chris Peters' skill and artistry in the systemic (and aesthetic) improvements that he lavished on my GP100.

Best, Jon

[Whiskey]

Thank you for posting this. My GP100 has had a habit of binding up, then un-binding itself almost at random, so I'm going to take a good look at this and try to do a deep clean on it. I have been tempted to send it in, but with how random the problem occurs, I'd hate to have a gun tech at Ruger just pull the trigger a couple times and mark it good to go.

[nate89]

I appreciate the links and the commentary! My GP100 was my primary gun I used at Revolver Round-Up at Gunsite last month, and I still haven't had time to really clean it up. I also have great admiration for the GP100 design, and even recently bought a GP100 parts kit to have some spare parts available should I lose or break anything.

[Exiledviking]

..even recently bought a GP100 parts kit to have some spare parts available should I lose or break anything.

I think most here on this forum would call that another GP100... 😃

[nate89]

I think most here on this forum would call that another GP100... 😃

I mean if there were frames around to build one...

[sharps54]

I appreciate the links and the commentary! My GP100 was my primary gun I used at Revolver Round-Up at Gunsite last month, and I still haven't had time to really clean it up. I also have great admiration for the GP100 design, and even recently bought a GP100 parts kit to have some spare parts available should I lose or break anything.

I shot a GP100 and a 649 at the Round Up and will probably do the same next year. The only bad thing about the Rugers is that you almost have to buy those parts kits to get some of the spare parts, that’s a huge advantage to the Smiths, you can get small parts pretty easily.

[SwampDweller]

On it's face, cleaning a lubing a revolver is quite simple-clean the barrel, cylinder chambers, and remove GSR grunge from the inner frame window and forcing cone area, land follow up by lightly applying a thin film of lube/anti-corrosive, and pretty much call things good. Frankly, that protocol for the most part works quite well, and is all that's needed.

But (and this being p-f, there's of course always a "but"), sometimes/periodically/situationally you may need to go a bit deeper. Ruger has an excellent series of videos on their website that nicely go above and beyond in talking users through things,

https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162880411&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162879867&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162880653&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162881567&cat=3769277

I found that this series provides some very useful and specific information-their endorsement of TW25B and showing the specific lubrication points and amounts to be applied was much appreciated.

Field-stripping a Ruger double-action revolver (in my case, a Security Six and GP100) isn't inordinately difficult, but in addition to the videos, I recommend having on hand some print resources showing component orientations. This is especially recommended if you do a detailed disassembly of the trigger groups and cylinder groups.

Rugers are exceptionally well-built and easy to maintain, and logical in their disassemblies and reassemblies. Regarding trigger groups, I've only felt it necessary to disassemble to facilitate removing and replacing trigger return springs. Regarding cylinders, I routinely (usually annually, or after protracted heavy use, particularly if there's any cylinder rotational sluggishness or binding) do a detailed disassembly up to the point of the ejector star-removing it requires specialized tools, and probably really isn't necessary, so that's as far as I go.

For trigger groups, my preference is to remove the group assembly, and spray with Dri-Slide, a molybdenum disulfate dry film lubricant suspended in a liquid carrier solution, which after application, drys/evaporates, leaving a film of dry lube on the components. This has the advantage of providing lubrication, but without the presence of a liquid attractant which can attract and hold GSR. I've used Dri-Slide on my revolver actions since the late 1980s/early 1990s and been very pleased with it; it comes both as an aerosol spray and as a drop-applied liquid.

Ruger cylinders feature two ball bearings in a race that facilitate cylinder rotation and retention on the crane. Over use, GSR grunge can accumulate inside the cylinder crane hole, and in the ball bearing race. One technique for eliminating this is simply to hose the areas down with brake cleaner or similar, then blow out the areas with compressed or canned air. Alternatively, you can disassemble the cylinder, which is what I prefer, because I think that the accumulated grunge is more effectively accessed and removed by hand. Ruger also recommends a light application of TW25B to the crane axle, which is only accomplished via disassembly.

The disassembly isn't particularly difficult or tricky, but there are some smaller components that you need to keep track of carefully-particularly a Crane Latch Plunger and spring, which tend to launch out of their housing in the crane during disassembly, and the Cylinder Retaining Balls, which can fall out of their recesses in the crane, and the Front Latch Pivot pin. The Latch requires a specific orientation on installation.

With the partial cylinder disassembly, the major cylinder parts and the inner cylinder areas (especially the ball race) can be accessed for removal of accumulated grunge.

The overall deep clean/lubrication process isn't particularly difficult or time consuming, but can pay some nice operational dividends. Whenever I perform it, I'm reminded of the genius of William Ruger and his staff in the revolver's design and manufacture-and I'm concurrently appreciative of the late Chris Peters' skill and artistry in the systemic (and aesthetic) improvements that he lavished on my GP100.

Best, Jon

Your timing is impeccable. I just got home from shooting my two GP100s and you posted this at the same time. Thank you! I'm starting to delve deeper into DA revolvers after dabbling a little bit over the years (and not shooting the two Rugers I have much over the past year) and this is one of the questions I had.

At what round counts do you recommend more detailed disassembly/cleaning for various subcomponents (or all of them)?

[JonInWA]

Your timing is impeccable. I just got home from shooting my two GP100s and you posted this at the same time. Thank you! I'm starting to delve deeper into DA revolvers after dabbling a little bit over the years (and not shooting the two Rugers I have much over the past year) and this is one of the questions I had.

At what round counts do you recommend more detailed disassembly/cleaning for various subcomponents (or all of them)?

Use-wise, whenever you start detecting binding in the cylinder, or if it appears sluggish in its rotation around the crane axle. Round-count wise, probably every thousand rounds or so. Otherwise, once a year will likely be more than sufficient.

In my experience, GSR will accumulate and cake up not just on the inside of the cylinder and in the ball race, but also on the crane axle. The back of the cylinder and the inside face of the ejector star are usually pretty clean, so there probably isn't a real reason or necessity for GSR removal to feel compelled to get the specialized tool necessary for ejector star removal and then remove the ejector.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

There is another school of thought regarding GP100 cylinder cleaning; Iowegan, and extremely knowledgeable retired gunsmith and active rugerforum.net participant (and author of several Iowegan Books of Knowledge, well worth the read and use if you can get ahold of any of them) recommends the same partial cylinder disassembly as I've discussed, but he does not recommend applying any lubricant to the cylinder or crane axle; his feeling is that the lubricant will serve as a GSR attractant.

I prefer to use lubricant as discussed to optimize cylinder operation/movement, and I'm comfortable with the need to periodically disassemble and clean. Frankly, I think that lubricant or not you're gonna have to periodically clean to remove GSR accumulations anyhow, so I'd rather concurrently reap the benefit of lubrication.

If I was in a deep freeze winter environment, I'd then advise the no lubricant approach.

In my experience, using Dri Slide instead of a more viscous lubricant in this area could be a sort of a "bridge" approach, but I prefer the TW25B.

Best, Jon

[Guerrero]

Subscribed