What’s your favorite sharpener?

[ST911]

I don’t mind putting some time into the project, but I’d rather have something that is precise and repeatable, and doesn’t require that I develop too much technique (since mine might likely be poor).

Same boat. A sharpening guru would probably cringe and take my blades away.

I have the Spyderco Sharpmaker set and do okay with it. I like the speed and efficiency of the Worksharp more. I am careful and follow directions. Carcass, Porkman, and the occasional finger don't seem to know the difference. If I think an edge got cattywampus I'll send the blade home for the $5/10/20 factory sharpening or get it to someone good at that.

[Irelander]

I have the Work Sharp Precision Sharpener which works really well. I love the adjustable sharpening angle. It only comes with one tri-angle slider so I got the expansion kit that provides three more tri-angle sliders with a wider range of grits. I think I'll be using this system for a long time.

[blues]

I’ll chime in with a request for recommendations.

I recently bought a Spyderco Dragonfly 2 with a VG-10 blade. It’s BY FAR the sharpest blade I’ve ever used, which includes several Benchmades (CQC-7 and others).
Now I’d like to be able to sharpen several of my knives, as well as some kitchen knives (our carving knife was particularly frustrating on Thanksgiving).
When it comes to sharpening knives, I don’t even know what I don’t know. I have a cheap pull-through sharpener that I’ve tried with the kitchen knives and some Swiss Army knives with limited (and seemingly decreasing) success.

Since Christmas is coming, I thought I could put a knife sharpener on my wish list. What would my Pistol-Forum bros suggest for a knife sharpening set up for under $100? I don’t mind putting some time into the project, but I’d rather have something that is precise and repeatable, and doesn’t require that I develop too much technique (since mine might likely be poor).

The simplest and most practical solution, especially for knives which have not degraded to the point of being very dull and needing a lot of work, is the Sharpmaker. (And you can buy the diamond or CBN rods as an add-on for edges needing more work.)

The Sharpmaker will keep your Dragonfly very sharp with very little maintenance on your part.

[jeep45238]

DMT 120 grit (xx-coarse) diamond plate for reprofiles.

Edge pro if I'm sharpening a ton of knives.

DMT diamond (x-coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine) for doing a single knife.

Sharpmaker on the regular to keep them touched up.

[Pnut]

One of the problems I found with the standard WorkSharp belt systems was rounding off the knife’s points if used improperly. That’s why I say the blade grinder attachment is a MUST for the KO model!

[Pacioli]

Can anyone comment on the Warthog?
A friend has one. I put a few swipes on my Kershaw Leek and it seemed to do a good job. But that's just a few seconds on an inexpensive knife. My need is a way to sharpen small kitchen knives. I use a Chef's Choice for the big knives but paring type knives are too small.

[Navin Johnson]

Achieving great success, sharpening a knife will be less based on the system you have and more based on knowledge, skill and experience.

It’s a game of angles

The guided systems will help you, but they’re a pain in the ass to use

Geometry out cuts steel. The primary bevel must be kept thin to cut well. A sharp knife with great edge retention and horrible geometry will not cut as well as a cheap steel with good geometry. Every time you sharpen a knife, you in effect widen the primary bevel. The angle of the secondary bevel is less important than the angle of the primary bevel

Lots of videos on YouTube and tutorials online. It’s important to understand how a particular steel responds to certain types of hones. It’s not elegant, but the sharpening system and how to use it as far more important than the knife or the steel.

I think the Sharp maker is the best combination of ease to use and quality outcome especially if you add a coarse bench stone for beveling and repairing. The problem with the Sharp maker is if you use alternating sides like suggested. Going back-and-forth weakens the edge. Learn to raise a bevel and then cut it off for a stout edge.

Only strop when the edge is getting dull to get a bit more life.

YMMV

[blues]

Learn to raise a bevel and then cut it off for a stout edge.

I think you intended to say "burr" there...

[Navin Johnson]

I think you intended to say "burr" there...

I did….

[Stone]

Edge pro Apex system is hands down the best out there for the money. He has videos that take you through it step by step for beginers. Has to be the best $225.00 I have ever spent. It can do pretty much every knife and scissors as well with the attachment. I do all my knives with it from my Buck thug to kitchen knives, large and small. https://www.edgeproinc.com/apex-mode...pening-system/