ENCLOSED EMITTER+RMR FOOTPRINT

[JCN]

Also will point out that if you hand thread the first side and slide the optic on… it’ll hold the other side screw in alignment so cross threading will be very, very unlikely.

There’s not much space in the optic body for the cap head to tilt and cross thread if the other side is already partially seated. It would function as a guide to help alignment.

[HCM]

I'm not an armorer so I don't have that data.

I've been running optics full time since 2016. I have never personally broken or stripped a screw. I have however seen a handful of issues and read about a zillion more so yeah, it's an issue.

I'm still confused as to why you're worried about recoil on a shotgun for this optic? Once again, shouldn't the recoil bosses mitigate this? I would imagine that a Capstan screw is probably harder to strip than a torx/allen? Do you disagree? You seem REALLY leery of this optic and i'm wondering why? I'm not really familiar with Capstan screws.

I’m leery of this optic’s mounting system in general based on past experience with screw issues.

I’ve also spent some time using a Steiner MPS and find the the thick top resulting from the top mounted emitter less than optimal visually but that’s a separate issue. I think that might be less of an issue on a long gun.

[Hambo]

We are.

So think of the following.

1. If there’s a fracture or screw failure, the cap head is going to be loose and just slide out with the tip still stuck in the slide. Then it’ll be no different than any other optic removal and screw extraction with vampliers.

2. The mounting of these is you hand thread one screw with the optic off and the slide the body on. You won’t cross thread both sides. If you cross thread one side, the optic won’t tighten down because it won’t be flush angled and you can cut or saw it from below. But you won’t be able to get to that point realistically.

So basically you won’t get to either of those failure points that makes extraction worse than a traditional optic.

BUT…. let’s say for the sake of discussion you did fuck up royally and you need to extract the screw.

I don’t think it would be a big deal.

Spring loaded punch to dimple here in green and then jig or drill press with a 2mm carbide bit.

Gotcha. I was thinking of an end mill centered in the opening, which would put it over the junction of the head and threads.

Either way, someone would really have to put the pieces of the puzzle together wrong to need such a solution.